04 Rainier Binding/Vibration during slow speed turns

[jeffro312]

Ok i am new to this site. My names Jeff. I own a 04 Rainier awd.

Otherday i got in my car to go home from work. Upon turning out of the parking spot, the truck started to shake alot. Sort of like i was driving over a grate of some sort or the wake up grid on side of highways.

i am no mechanic nor do i have money to pay one but i did some research and this is what ive done/checked

Checked the transfer case fluid - was Blue but foggy (replaced fluid with the dealer fluid auto trak 2)

Checked level of differential fluid (front + Rear) - full (just changed it 4-6 months ago)

Transmission fluid is good flushed same time Differential was done (when i say flush 3 drain and fills)

Prior to this happening i did not have any noticable symptoms
possible symptoms are: vibration at idle while in any gear park,nuetral,reverse,drive etc (assumed to be motor mounts)
a clicking noise while coasting once i hit gas it disapeared. (assumed was a warped rotor bought them on ebay drilled slotted no namers) have noticed this clicking is gone now.


Read someewher back on trailvoy about 4wd tests to jack front tire and try spinning it. Although i do not think that applies to my awd system did it and results are tire does not spin if other is on ground when both in air tire spins other spins reverse.

Driveshafts have no play in them while all 4 are on ground. Noticed if i jack front end off ground i can wiggle the front shaft 1/4 inch either way makes a clunking noise in transfer case unable to replicate when tires on ground.



sorry for such a long post just trying to save time .....

am i ok to drive like this i have no Cel lights of any kind.

any idea's on how to further try and diagnose problems thank you in advance for any information you are all very smart individuals and have used your how-to's from trailvoy a few times thanks

 

[Wooluf1952]

Welcome

In case you haven't heard:
http://gmtnation.com/f5/welcome-gmtnation-com-heres-story-226/

Thanks for researching.

Others will jump in but, how many miles? And what is the maintenance history? Has the transfer case fluid been changed every 50K miles?

 

[jeffro312]

there is 172k miles. No idea what maintenence history is before 161k ive done oil changes every 3k synthetic mobil 1, Changed front + Rear Diff fluid and tranny fluid new brakes etc so since i got it at 161k fully cared for.

as far as transfer case fluid cant promise every 50k but it was blue 2 days ago little foggy and mechanic who changed it said someones been in there as the fill bolt was slightly stripped

 

[BRomanJr]

there is 172k miles. No idea what maintenence history is before 161k ive done oil changes every 3k synthetic mobil 1, Changed front + Rear Diff fluid and tranny fluid new brakes etc so since i got it at 161k fully cared for.

as far as transfer case fluid cant promise every 50k but it was blue 2 days ago little foggy and mechanic who changed it said someones been in there as the fill bolt was slightly stripped

Can we assume that at 172k that the fluid had been changed 2 times before you did? Without a documented history on the transfer case my experience shows that a second fluid change a couple weeks after the first can help. I attribute it to the necessary additives degrading and once renewed by changing twice with a period of time between them will work the new additives into the clutches as needed. Of course there could be a mechanical problem that new fluid won't fix.

The behavior you described can also be observed on the 4WD systems when using the A4WD mode around corners and the fluid needs to be changed.

 

[jeffro312]

Can we assume that at 172k that the fluid had been changed 2 times before you did? Without a documented history on the transfer case my experience shows that a second fluid change a couple weeks after the first can help. I attribute it to the necessary additives degrading and once renewed by changing twice with a period of time between them will work the new additives into the clutches as needed. Of course there could be a mechanical problem that new fluid won't fix.

The behavior you described can also be observed on the 4WD systems when using the A4WD mode around corners and the fluid needs to be changed.

Thanks for input.. it literally only happens at like 5-10 mph turning left right wether going foward or back. once going faster its either un-noticable or not there but i will try changing transfer case fluid again in a week or two see how it goes.

Probably should have mentioned this earlier but girlfriend drove my car through a puddle. would not tell me how deep it was exactly anychance water can get into transfer case or any of the differentials?

when i just changed transfer case fluid had somewhat or a fog to it i should have mixed small amount of new fluid with water see what it looks like but didnt... any ideas?

 

[BRomanJr]

Thanks for input.. it literally only happens at like 5-10 mph turning left right wether going foward or back. once going faster its either un-noticable or not there but i will try changing transfer case fluid again in a week or two see how it goes.

It may lessen over time, if not, then that would be the next step.

Probably should have mentioned this earlier but girlfriend drove my car through a puddle. would not tell me how deep it was exactly anychance water can get into transfer case or any of the differentials?

The Transfer Case and Transmission along with the front and rear differentials all have vents connected to hoses that terminate up high enough to prevent most water intrusions. Unless one of those vents is damaged or disconnected I doubt any water got in.

when i just changed transfer case fluid had somewhat or a fog to it i should have mixed small amount of new fluid with water see what it looks like but didnt... any ideas?

The more important question is was it low on fluid? do you know how much came out?

 

[jeffro312]

It may lessen over time, if not, then that would be the next step.



The Transfer Case and Transmission along with the front and rear differentials all have vents connected to hoses that terminate up high enough to prevent most water intrusions. Unless one of those vents is damaged or disconnected I doubt any water got in.



The more important question is was it low on fluid? do you know how much came out?

I do not know exact amount of fluid that came out. I watched it pour out though and looked to be more came out then went in so id say either was full or close to where level should be. (my judgement of fluids that exited may not be the best but pretty sure it was close)

thanks for reply's man. fell in love with this car do not want to lose her now....

i would just beable to pinpoint the problem without paying somone 200 dollars to do so.

trying to rule out things but not sure how to go about it.

Might be off topic sorry but
If G80 locker was not functioning properly i would have more symptoms then i do correct? anyway to check that just take cover off and look? what for?

how would i check front DIff? Checked fluids they are full

thanks again

 

[BRomanJr]

I do not know exact amount of fluid that came out. I watched it pour out though and looked to be more came out then went in so id say either was full or close to where level should be. (my judgement of fluids that exited may not be the best but pretty sure it was close)

How much did you put back in? Should have been close to 2 quarts.

thanks for reply's man. fell in love with this car do not want to lose her now....

i would just beable to pinpoint the problem without paying somone 200 dollars to do so.

trying to rule out things but not sure how to go about it.

Might be off topic sorry but
If G80 locker was not functioning properly i would have more symptoms then i do correct? anyway to check that just take cover off and look? what for?

how would i check front DIff? Checked fluids they are full

thanks again

A malfuntioning G80 could possibly cause the symptom, but less likely.
The main enemy of a differential with or without G80 is debris, If you take the cover off check for metal debris and look for chipped teeth.

 

[RayVoy]

The AWD trucks, and the 4wd trucks when in the AWD selection, normally act like 2wd trucks until front to rear slippage is detected.

With no slippage, very little power is sent to the front wheels (maybe 5%), most goes to the rear. When slippage is detected, the transfer case reacts by splitting the power front and rear.

The transfer case control module (TCCM) receives the slippage signal(S) and commands the transfer case internal clutches to fully engage.

You could have a problem in the wheel speed sensors, in the TCCM, inside the transfer case, or (and this is my guess), dirt/crud/water corrosion at one, or more, electrical connections under the truck.

 

[jeffro312]

The AWD trucks, and the 4wd trucks when in the AWD selection, normally act like 2wd trucks until front to rear slippage is detected.

With no slippage, very little power is sent to the front wheels (maybe 5%), most goes to the rear. When slippage is detected, the transfer case reacts by splitting the power front and rear.

The transfer case control module (TCCM) receives the slippage signal(S) and commands the transfer case internal clutches to fully engage.

You could have a problem in the wheel speed sensors, in the TCCM, inside the transfer case, or (and this is my guess), dirt/crud/water corrosion at one, or more, electrical connections under the truck.

I am curious how to test speed sensors, also not sure if this would help eliminate anything probably not. but i unplugged the TCCM above drivers knee and symptoms were still present except now i had a light on dash due to it not being connected. Should i go to junk yard see if i can find one off a simular car. any tb envoy or rainier 04- what 06 will work?

Also on the transfer case had a plug coming off it i guess is the encoder motor? i unplugged that and still same symptoms but if they are in wrong position i assume unplugging them solves nothing as it wont reset to normal position am i right?

Also tried leaving battery off for 30 min no luck

also to answer how much fluid i put in. think it was 2 pints w.e size it comes in from dealer 2 bottles fit in there some poured out when full. small amount though dont think they were quarts though i forgot.

 

[jeffro312]

The AWD trucks, and the 4wd trucks when in the AWD selection, normally act like 2wd trucks until front to rear slippage is detected.

With no slippage, very little power is sent to the front wheels (maybe 5%), most goes to the rear. When slippage is detected, the transfer case reacts by splitting the power front and rear.

The transfer case control module (TCCM) receives the slippage signal(S) and commands the transfer case internal clutches to fully engage.

You could have a problem in the wheel speed sensors, in the TCCM, inside the transfer case, or (and this is my guess), dirt/crud/water corrosion at one, or more, electrical connections under the truck.

I am curious how to test speed sensors, also not sure if this would help eliminate anything probably not. but i unplugged the TCCM above drivers knee and symptoms were still present except now i had a light on dash due to it not being connected. Should i go to junk yard see if i can find one off a simular car. any tb envoy or rainier 04- what 06 will work?

Also on the transfer case had a plug coming off it i guess is the encoder motor? i unplugged that and still same symptoms but if they are in wrong position i assume unplugging them solves nothing as it wont reset to normal position am i right?

Also tried leaving battery off for 30 min no luck

also to answer how much fluid i put in. think it was 2 pints w.e size it comes in from dealer 2 bottles fit in there some poured out when full. small amount though dont think they were quarts though i forgot.

 

[jeffro312]

so based on these symptoms. wich i guess arent something that happens alot since no solutions.


if i were to bring it to a mechanic what should i watch out for as i know alot of them like to throw parts at cars.

i just want to fix this and get it over with.

i just really cant afford a wrong diagnosis and repair

anyhelp point me in right direction to consolidate the problem would be greatly apreciated thank you

 

[The_Roadie]

A competent independent mechanic with a high end scan tool like a GM Tech II or the Snap-on equivalent can talk to the TCCM and command the encoder motor to go to certain positions. That will let them diagnose the transfer case clutches, which I suspect to be jammed or excessively grabby.

 

[jeffro312]

A competent independent mechanic with a high end scan tool like a GM Tech II or the Snap-on equivalent can talk to the TCCM and command the encoder motor to go to certain positions. That will let them diagnose the transfer case clutches, which I suspect to be jammed or excessively grabby.

Just the man i been waiting to hear from... almost just tried to send you a message directly couldnt figure out how....


only person around i know with GM tech 2 would be the dealer.....dealer wants alot of money to use that tech 2 deal... i want to pay them to fix it not check it.. i know they cant fix it if they dont know whats wrong... ie why im trying to find whats wrong

if the clutches are grabby or jammed does that result in a new transfer case

or is there another method.....

and i thought transfer case delivers power to front or rear and differentials allow slip while turning ??? am i wrong on that assumption..

i have no symptoms to my knowledge going straight or fast around corners

 

[The_Roadie]

Use Google and Yelp to locate competent mechanics and call them to ask about their ability to talk to the TCCM.

I've been reading about your issues, don't worry. PMs don't usually get any faster attention. Sorry.

Bad clutches can be fixed cheaper by installing a junkyard or Ebay NP126 transfer case, than allowing anyone to rebuild yours. Don't get the NP226 with the low range gear option.

A NP126 will normally send 5% of the torque forward in the absense of slip. That can easily be overpowered by the traction on dry pavement, so no feeling of being bound up. I suspect you have more than 5% of the torque being sent forward.

The deeper theory of operation of the system is that the transfer case can ALSO be thought of as a limited slip differential, depending on how much wheel slippage the TCCM detects and how much clutch pack engagement the encoder motor is commanded to apply. The front differential is "open" in the sense that it allows a different wheel RPM from side to side in turns, but the carrier essentially AVERAGES the side to side RPM and the front driveshaft turns at a rate proportional to the AVERAGE of the front wheel RPMs.

The feeling of binding happens on a 4WD vehicle like mine in 4HI and 4LO, and in yours if the clutches are too tightly engaged, on dry pavement, when the front and rear driveshafts want to turn at different speeds (due to the radius being described by the two differentials) and the transfer case has them locked up. It's all due to the turning point being in line with the rear axle, as in this diagram I did years ago that's helped a few hundred people understand the physics involved. Let me know if this needs more clarification.

 

[jeffro312]

Thank you roadie that clears things up a tad....

so if i were to get this new transfer case anyone have a how to for changing it out? or better left for the pro's. im rather handy i did my front struts brakes starters and things like that before.

i have local junkyard chuck and eddies that i use and they list transfer cases for 100.00usd now they do not tell me wich one is it out of the 2 you listed. just the year make model and mileage like this


Transfer Case Assy From 2004 ASCENDER
Donor CarModel: ASCENDERYear: 2004Stock Ticket Number: AC4676Conditions and Options4.2,AT ... More Info
$100.00
Buy Now
Compatible with Buick RAINIER 2004


Transfer Case Assy From 2002 ENVOY
Donor CarModel: ENVOYYear: 2002Stock Ticket Number: AC5223Conditions and Options4.2,AT NO 4X4 MOTOR ... More Info
$100.00
Buy Now
Compatible with Buick RAINIER 2004


Transfer Case Assy From 2003 TRAILBLAZ
Donor CarModel: TRAILBLAZYear: 2003Stock Ticket Number: AC5635 ... More Info
$100.00
Buy Now
Compatible with Buick RAINIER 2004



Transfer Case Assy From 2002 Chevrolet Trailblazer LTZ

Donor CarModel: Chevrolet Trailblazer LTZYear: 2002Stock Ticket Number: AC8069Conditions and OptionsOICExtra NotesOFF IN CAR ... More Info
$100.00
Buy Now
Compatible with Buick RAINIER 2004


Transfer Case Assy From 2004 ENVOY XL
Donor CarModel: ENVOY XLYear: 2004Mileage: 116564Stock Ticket Number: AC8961Conditions and Options4.2,AT ... More Info
$100.00


when i click link to 04 envoy xl
i see Compatibility

This part will fit these makes and models with these options:
■BRAVADA 04 opt NP8
■ENVOY 02-03
■ENVOY 04-09 opt NP8
■ENVOY XL 02-03
■ENVOY XL 04 (opt NP8)
■ENVOY XL 05-06 opt NP8
■ENVOY XUV 04-05 (opt NP8)
■ISUZU ASCENDER 03
■ISUZU ASCENDER 04 (opt NP8)
■ISUZU ASCENDER 05-06 opt NP8
■ISUZU ASCENDER 07-08 (opt NP8)
■RAINIER 04-07 opt NP8
■TRAILBLAZER 02-03
■TRAILBLAZER 04-05 opt NP8
■TRAILBLAZER 06-07 exc. SS; opt NP8
■TRAILBLAZER 08-09 opt NP8
■TRAILBLAZER EXT 02-03
■TRAILBLAZER EXT 04 (opt NP8)
■TRAILBLAZER EXT 05-06 opt NP8




what do i look for they also list a warrentee 6 month i think.
i just dont wanna buy another bad one thanks roadie YOUR THE BEST wich im sure you already know

for 100 dollors ill go for it and get a new one... not like its 500. just dont get how a new one from rock auto is 1100 and junk yard is 100 but ill take it

 

[jeffro312]

found answer to one of my questions np8 is the one i want the other is np4 thanks to repair manual

 

[BRomanJr]

found answer to one of my questions np8 is the one i want the other is np4 thanks to repair manual

Probably the other way around:

NP4 = NP126 A4WD - no contols, Automatic 4WD mode only.

NP8 = NP226 4WD w/Lo range - Has knob to change modes

Confirm which one you have by looking on the sticker on Glove box door, only one will be there.

 

[jeffro312]

Probably the other way around:

NP4 = NP126 A4WD - no contols, Automatic 4WD mode only.

NP8 = NP226 4WD w/Lo range - Has knob to change modes

Confirm which one you have by looking on the sticker on Glove box door, only one will be there.

yes i read it too quick you are correct i had them backwards... figures junk yard only has the np8

 

[The_Roadie]

It has to be an AWD model like the Bravada and Rainier. NP8 is the RPO code for the NP226 transfer case with the lo range, used in the TB, Envoy, and the Ascender, IIRC. You have an NP4. That junkyard chart must be in error.

There are manuals on the site. http://gmtnation.com/f23/need-service-manuals-get-them-here-371/

And there's no substitute for getting dirty and looking. Only you can judge your readiness for the job.

 

[jeffro312]

found one says this

Donor Car
Model: ENVOY
Year: 2002
Stock Ticket Number: AC5223

Conditions and Options
4.2,AT NO 4X4 MOTOR


what would you assume no 4x4 motor means?????

 

[BRomanJr]

found one says this

Donor Car
Model: ENVOY
Year: 2002
Stock Ticket Number: AC5223

Conditions and Options
4.2,AT NO 4X4 MOTOR


what would you assume no 4x4 motor means?????

Envoy and Trailblazer all came with NP8, that won't fit.

"no 4x4 motor" means the encoder motor/actuator has been removed from the TC and won't be included in the sale.

Both models of the TCs have an encoder/actuator but they are different.

 

[jeffro312]

thank you for all your help guys. im going to call junk yard tomarrow see if they have any bravada's or rainiers there. since those are only 2 cars can come from... man got excited haha but thanks for info again...


also the encoder motor if that was failing would symtoms be simular or is that not something to cause problems i have

 

[The_Roadie]

If the encoder motor fails to move to the position the TCCM commands it to, it should light an error lamp on the gauge cluster. Again, a competent tech with a Tech II tool or equivalent could diagnose it in ten minutes.

 

[jeffro312]

If the encoder motor fails to move to the position the TCCM commands it to, it should light an error lamp on the gauge cluster. Again, a competent tech with a Tech II tool or equivalent could diagnose it in ten minutes.

thanks roadie... ill keep it posted on what i find..

 

[@Bravada]

Hi jeffro312,

I am wondering if you were able to fix the problem with your 2004 Rainier. I have a 2004 Bravada with exact same problem. On turns at slow speed there is tremendous binding and vibrations.

Hi everyone!

I had my Bravada at the dealer recently where I had the front differential seals replaced and they told me that the encoder motor needs replacement. They quoted me $850 for it. I think they also said that the encoder motor was always engaged. Can't recollect their exact statement though.

One more thing, they also told me that some re-programming is required after installing a new encoder motor.

I came back and checked out this forum and no where did I find any mention about re-programming after replacing an encoder motor. I checked out the price of an encoder motor and it is less than $200 and installing it is simple. I am sure I could do it in a couple of hours.

The same dealer worked on transfer case leaks about 6 months back so I can only assume that when fixing the leaks and replacing the gaskets and seals they would have looked at the clutches in the transfer case. I am pretty sure they didn't say there was anything wrong with the chutches. I am not sure I want to go back to the dealer anymore. Any advice guys...

 

[The_Roadie]

You can swap it yourself, then take it to them for reinitialization, which may indeed be true for the AWD system you have. Not many folks have one break, so we don't have a lot of history helping people fix them. If they charge a fair price for ten minutes work with their Tech II tool, it might only cost you $100. Still less than the $850 full-up proce they would have charged.

Just make sure you get the encoder motor with 5 connector pins meant for the NP126 transfer case, not the 7-pin unit most of us with the NP226 transfer case need. The 5-pin omits an encoder motor brake you don't need.

 

[@Bravada]

Thanks a lot Roadie I will do exactly that and report back how it went...

 

[lovesrugers]

Looks like both of you have the same symptoms my 2002 Bravada had. In the end I had to replace the encoder motor. No mine didn't show any codes or light the service awd light. The only way I got the service awd light to light up was by getting the Bravada stuck in the snow. It was at this point that the light lit. Using a scan tool showed a code that is only set if the rear tires spin for 30 seconds or more. I was also able to use the scan tool I borrowed to verify the front and rear drive shaft speed sensors were functioning.

Oh yeah my problems started with the Bravada getting stuck in AWD when coming off a slick surface and than no awd at all.

Also I did not have to flash anything when I replaced the encoder motor. It was a just plug and play.

Here is the article I wrote for this site on changing out the encoder motor.
GMTNation - How to change a transfer case encoder motor.
Jerry

 

[jeffro312]

Well I'm cheap and didn't want to pay anyone to hook a computer up to tell me if transfer case works so luckily here in ct. We got a noreaster and some snow. Took Ms Rainier out and started a donut and yup as I suspected no awd at all just a fun rear wheel donuts and finally the 4x4 dummy light comes on. So I'll says its encoder motor or the computer that controls it... think my assumptions are right??? Got a free diagnosis and had fun while doing it

 

[The_Roadie]

I think your assumptions are correct, except you aren't saving any money if you change the encoder motor for more than the diagnostic fee and it fails to fix the problem. Then you change the TCCM and it fails to solve the problem. And then you pay for a diagnostic visit that finds a frayed wire in the harness between the TCCM and the encoder motor or something like that.

Of course, people have paid for diagnostic visits that gave a WRONG answer and the mechanic failed to stand behind their diagnosis.

Watch out for donuts, BTW. At full lock and full throttle, you can shear the shaft in the power steering pump.

 

[jeffro312]

I think your assumptions are correct, except you aren't saving any money if you change the encoder motor for more than the diagnostic fee and it fails to fix the problem. Then you change the TCCM and it fails to solve the problem. And then you pay for a diagnostic visit that finds a frayed wire in the harness between the TCCM and the encoder motor or something like that.

Of course, people have paid for diagnostic visits that gave a WRONG answer and the mechanic failed to stand behind their diagnosis.

Watch out for donuts, BTW. At full lock and full throttle, you can shear the shaft in the power steering pump.

Thanks for helping think about it more in depth. It was more just me trying to pinpoint if it was the awd causing issue or something unrelated like rear end binding or front end steering binding. And was curious after reading another post if after a good amount of tire spin, if the awd light would come on

Also it was extra slippery out not a lot of turning or throttle needed to get her to spin. Now I think about it I don't think I've ever put the Pedal to the floor. But thanks for heads up. As of right now a few things in life led to me having to park Ms Rainier unregistered and uninsured until further notice. So no rush to get her fixed. At least I know where exactly to look. Mostly thanks to all of the intelligent folks on this website



Little off topic but Roadie maybe you can help
truck sat for a week or two. Had her out other night noticed a loud constant ticking from what seems to be intake manifold area. On battery side in the plastic rounded case to right of the vortex labeled box on top. Any ideas it didn't go away engine temp got to normal and oil press. Was normal

 

[lovesrugers]

Well you can try what I did before changing out the encoder.

Go ahead and jump under the Rainer and unplug and clean the wiring harness from the encoder motor. Also while you are under there take a wrench or hammer and tap the end of the encoder motor itself. This temporarily restored my AWD but didn't last very long.

Doing this will also give you a chance to inspect the wiring harness to check for water intrusion or any frayed wires if you can see them. If you have any it would be a great idea to put some dielectric grease on the connections before reassembly.

Jerry

 

[@Bravada]

Today, I replaced the encoder motor on my Bravada. It was supposed to be a simple job as others have stated earlier. Frankly, it maybe but for getting the pins out of the old motor. I used a vise-grip, a mallet, a screw driver and my jaw-horse to hold that damn thing in place. After about 6 hours, I was able to get the pins out. During this time I made a trip to pep-boys and the local dealer to see if I could buy new pins to make the job easier. The dealer didn’t have the pins in stock. BTW, the part number for the pins is #88935651 and it cost $11.44 apiece. You can get it for cheaper online but the shipping will probably make it about the same price. I strongly recommend getting the pins when you buy the new motor – it will save you tons of time and effort.

After all said and done, the Bravada drives like a charm – no more grinding and hesitation on turns. Thanks everyone – this is the best do-it-yourself help group I found…

 

[lovesrugers]

Glad to hear you got it fixed. Have you verified that the AWD is engaging?

As to the pins I had no problems removing mine. I just used a set of vice grips to gently compress them and then pulled them straight out. Of course we don't use salt on the roads around here. Maybe yours got corroded into the motor?

Jerry

 

[jeffro312]

Hey is the encoder motor one of those parts that you have to get a certain brand...
where did you get yours what was cost and part number

once encoder motor is off is there a way to bench test it.

 

[lovesrugers]

I got mine from Rock Auto. DORMAN Part # 600904 I just looked and it appears your Rainer calls for the exact same part number. Cost right now at Rockauto is $129.79.

I am assuming you have the AWD like my Bravada. This uses the 5 pin connector and not the larger 7 pin connector.

As far as testing the old encoder motor I think I read somewhere that you could do it but I don't remember where or how.

Jerry

 

[jeffro312]

I got mine from Rock Auto. DORMAN Part # 600904 I just looked and it appears your Rainer calls for the exact same part number. Cost right now at Rockauto is $129.79.

I am assuming you have the AWD like my Bravada. This uses the 5 pin connector and not the larger 7 pin connector.

As far as testing the old encoder motor I think I read somewhere that you could do it but I don't remember where or how.

Jerry

Thanks Jerry. That indeed is correct part and same as I was going to get that same one just wasn't sure if it was a picky part. Thanks for info man

 

[jeffro312]

Well took my car to a buddy at a transmission shop after doing those donuts it produced a code idiot I am forgot to remember code but I remember the meaning of code first was general failure of transfer case and then 3 codes to three speed sensors. He then told me that there's a tab out basically saying to check all the wires because water gets inside etc. So goes back to my gf driving through a puddle and this all started after. So I think a couple post up mentions to clean out plug etc. Can anyone else chime in what other wires should I follow clean and check????? Are they replaceable. Would a short fry anything like the tccm or anything like that.. this guy did the code reading and research free. Will charge me hours labor to find actual problem. A malfunctioning encoder motor would most likely give a different code correct? Any help be great. Almost purchased a new encoder motor last night too but didn't had a feeling to wait.. hopefully there's just water somewhere

 

[lovesrugers]

Jeff I sent you a pm.

Jerry