I have rust on it but I guess its not bad, but then again I shouldn't have any since its spent its life in Arizona has been a grocery suv
So give me some feedback
- Thread starter AzTruckGuy
- Start date
I have rust on it but I guess its not bad, but then again I shouldn't have any since its spent its life in Arizona has been a grocery suv
$20 to get the rear links off is a bargain, never again with OEM swaybar links. They end up cutting them off, POS links. 
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So the rears are on, the shop said that my swaybar bolts to the bracket where rusted on tight, and they could break and told me to leave the bushings on the rear as they looked fine, not happy since Id rather replace the rubber ones. But I know better so I left them as is. The one near the gas tank is a PITA to do, but its on. So anyone complete this and have rattles in the front? Seems to stop if I press the break pedal down? Thinking its the brake shield?
Trkdrvremt
Member
I retightened the front but that's not where its coming from, seems to be coming from the wheel area, when I press on the brakes the rattle goes away?
Blckshdw
Moderator
The only thing that becomes pressurized and moves when you press the brake pedal, is the caliper. Check your bolts and make sure they haven't loosened on you.
Taking it to get a free brake check, need to see what causing that the groove on the drivers rotor and to see what spec the front and rotors are anyways
So PepBoys says $347 for new front pads/rotors and resurface both rear rotors. Seems one of the pads was causing the groove in the drivers side rotor. They say the rotors have 2 more turns on them. Amazon has front and rear rotors and pads for $151 and I redo the whole system myself. 
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I ended up ordering ACDelco 1 Advantage Ceramic Front Disc Brake Pad Set with Hardware and rears also, Seems good reviews on them https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004HDY8XQ/?tag=gmtnation-20
For rotors Dura vented front and rear, again good reviews https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00199IJX6/?tag=gmtnation-20
So about $177 including a rear purge valve for the P0440 code problem. I am going to have to put some paint on the rotors as some have had rust issues, but looking at my rotors now, they have rust them and everywhere else, its the Trailblazer thing to have.
Looking online at videos I assume these would be the only tools need for changing out front and rear brakes?
http://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tools/disc-brake-caliper-tool
Bleeding new brakes to make there is fresh fluid
http://www.autozone.com/test-scan-a...an-brake-bleeder-kit/46839_0_0/?checkfit=true
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littleblazer
Member
- Jul 6, 2014
- 9,265
Thanks I saw that on a video I don't have a c-clamp so I am limited on tools like that. So the thing is I want to bleed the system to get fresh fluid in there, I assume that fluid is original just like all the other fluids I changed out which were filthy. I still need to compress these pistons correct?
littleblazer
Member
- Jul 6, 2014
- 9,265
Yea. Pinch off line with hose clamp pliers, Crack the bleeder and compress the piston draing the old fluid from it. Then do a normal bleed/fluid change.
So I ordered the Belltech 9510 shocks since I am going to be doing the full rotor change out and I just want to do everything at once. Not that I am having any issues with the hubs, but how does one check to see if there could be any issues since they will be more accessible during this time. When I changed out the Upper arms and ball joints, I sprayed the hell out of drive axle area with PB blaster getting the axle drives loose from the rust and this went into the bearing area. I have not experienced any weird noises or grinds after this.
I did this before one was tighter than the other one but than again I had shot upper ball joints and they have been replaced...it feels tighter with the upper arms and ball joints and stabilizer links replaced....the thing is when I let go of the steering wheel when driving it tends to track to the right sometimes
Sparky
Member
- Dec 4, 2011
- 12,927
Generally though, there won't be play in the hubs. Heck, even when I had one howling like a rabid banshee it didn't have any noticeable play in it.
Tracking to the right could be more alignment than anything, although it is normal for a little bit of drift to the right due to the crowning of the roads (center is higher than the sides, to help with water runoff instead of pooling).
Tracking to the right could be more alignment than anything, although it is normal for a little bit of drift to the right due to the crowning of the roads (center is higher than the sides, to help with water runoff instead of pooling).
I feel no vibration through the accelerator pedal, only vibration I feel is from the motor mounts being shot
Actually I think I am being paranoid when I was driving I think I felt a vibration, I know my tires are shot (hence why I am doing all this work) and I got the wrong Moog K80773 46mm(1.81 Inch) stabilizer bar bushings (for sale) I should have gotten the Moog K80772 44mm(1.73 Inch) since I have the smaller sway bar.
I don't want to start a new thread and this thread is about suspension anyways, but when I changed out my rear coils, I didn't put new spring insulators. They popped up on Amazon and some of the reviewers stated that the rear needs 2 spring insulators per rear coil and how they wouldn't want metal to metal contact? When I looked at photos before doing the rears, most of the photos showed 1 spring insulator and it was the upper. Which is correct?
So is there a huge difference in ride quality when a new spring insulator installed vs using the spring insulator with 96k miles at the time? I inspected them and they were not torn and still seemed good
Matt
Member
- Dec 2, 2011
- 4,024
This may very well be your answer.
In regards to your insulators...I've close to 150K on mine and they're fine. I don't believe they affect the ride anywhere near as much as worn shocks do.
Thanks guys, no they looked fine no cracks, tears, etc. I just took a 120 mile trip and the front was noisy, rattles and a sound that I couldn't pinpoint, it sounded like a whine but not really....with the front brakes needing rotors and pads, I might be just over thinking it, but I am also going to be getting it down to the those hubs and I just don't want to leave them in if they are bad...
So I did a bleed and flush on my brakes today and I checked to see if I had any play in my tires after the upper ball joint replace. So I have a bad axel, bearing or hub on my passenger side...Here's a video I took and photos....both look decent and I cant tell which one it is, this is the sound I would hear and I couldn't tell what it was....Drivers side is fine and made no noise when I spun the tire in the air..I spilled some brake fluid and washed it off the passengers so they are not leaking. Only fluid left to flush is the power steering fluid and I'm done with fluids
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Mooseman
Moderator
Mooseman
Moderator
The right side axle goes into it on the oil pan. This video shows it well and what to check for:
I will check it but the sounds seems to be coming from the hub area and not the disconnect area
Ok checked the axels and there is a small amount of play on the passenger side where the disconnect is, the drivers side axel was tighter and no play....Now what? What are my options? I feel like taking off the 4WD drive system as I will never use it
Mooseman
Moderator
Well, you could remove the axle and see if it's actually the bearing or the axle making the noise. You can drive it without the axle.
Although it didn't sound like it, check the brake splash guard possibly rubbing on the rotor.
Although it didn't sound like it, check the brake splash guard possibly rubbing on the rotor.
Ok heres the thing I am getting the Belltech shock kit today...so this weekend I am working on installing new struts, front/rear rotors and pads and motor mounts, I looked at the kit online for disconnect its $285...an aftermarket improved part around $315...I wont be using the 4WD at all when I am up in Phoenix, ever. So if I take the axels off and drive around like this for a bit until I figure out if I want to do the disconnect or not, will it damage the diff? Or any 4wd parts?
Sparky
Member
- Dec 4, 2011
- 12,927
If you take both axles out you'll want to seal up the open hole on the driver side. A Gatorade cap is a perfect fit to keep crud out of there.
Could do the same on the disconnect side just to keep crud out of it. I opted to rebuild my disconnect instead of replace it as it was a lot cheaper (though more time consuming).
Could do the same on the disconnect side just to keep crud out of it. I opted to rebuild my disconnect instead of replace it as it was a lot cheaper (though more time consuming).
What rebuild kit did you get? For future reference. I just don't have time to rebuild at the moment. By the time the part or rebuild kit is ordered and it arrives I have to head to Phoenix on Monday and than heading back Thursday and then Sat moving up there.
Sparky
Member
- Dec 4, 2011
- 12,927
Wasn't a kit. I ordered the various parts that I needed from online. Inner and outer seals, bearings, 3 thrust washers. My shift fork, gears, and collar were all OK. Ended up busting the housing so I had to go to a junk yard and buy another used (and also worn out) disconnect for the housing half I needed.
If I were to replace it Id prob end up just buying an improved unit..Dont ever want to touch grease ever again lol
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So I am very happy with the McGaughys 3" lowering coil and Belltech rear shock combo. I installed the coils a while back and had the Black Blisteins with them. So much better and tighter in the rear now, I can now tell how my ride was just worn and old.
Old vs McGaughys
The reason why you need new shocks if you lower
Why would GM even put this shock on a 4600LB Suv?
Old vs McGaughys
The reason why you need new shocks if you lower
Why would GM even put this shock on a 4600LB Suv?
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