Only getting 160 miles on 25gal tank

nagyiii

Member
Apr 26, 2014
73
my Tstat took a dump this past winter, and I let it go for about a month. My gas mileage suffered dramatically. Once I replaced the tstat it got better, but it even improved more when I removed the resonator at the end of the exhaust. Mine was actually plugged up with charcoal size piece of stuff, not sure what it was, but it looked like charcoal. I can get about 450 miles to a tank full now at 70-75 mph highway.
 

coolasice

Member
Oct 27, 2013
1,019
Northern Maine
pcharm129 said:
Done. No leakage.


I'm not sure that our trucks have vacuum at thr FPR. I found this on Trailvoy:

http://forums.trailvoy.com/showthread.php?t=36752#/forumsite/20572/topics/36752?page=2

tblazed said:
The only way there would be vacuum at that port on the resonator would be if the filter is clogged, or you have your hand over the air inlet and you are choking off the air! Manifold vacuum may run 18-22 in-hg at idle, but there won't be any significant vacuum on the atmosphere-side of the throttle plate. Just whatever drop across the filter element there is, which should be close to none. I doubt you could measure the pressure drop across a filter with a typical vacuum gauge.

Then PROSPHOTO said:
-I stand corrected (sorry tblazed )...Our trucks use a fuel pressure regulator that is more commonly used in a return-less fuel system (as opposed to our return systems that work off of manifold vacuum)

So, should there be vacuum or no? Because i absolutely do not have any...
the returnless system was introduced in 2006. I was wrong about being able to check vacuum there. The change is so minimal you will not see it on a gauge.
 

pcharm129

Original poster
Member
Aug 15, 2012
191
coolasice said:
the returnless system was introduced in 2006. I was wrong about being able to check vacuum there. The change is so minimal you will not see it on a gauge.
No worries. Thanx for trying. The fight continues!!!

Think im going to put in a corvette servo and see what happens...
 

coolasice

Member
Oct 27, 2013
1,019
Northern Maine
Have you checked fuel mileage via odometer/gallons yet? Could your fuel gauge/sender be faulty?
 

pcharm129

Original poster
Member
Aug 15, 2012
191
coolasice said:
Have you checked fuel mileage via odometer/gallons yet? Could your fuel gauge/sender be faulty?
I always reset the odometer after each fill up. Force of habit at this point. No matter how the needle dances through fuel level inaccuracies, from day to day or period of day to period of day, it ALWAYS ends up at a quarter tank after every 40 or so miles. However, im going to let it play out a little further this time because it seems that she MAY have improved by a few miles. Which may take a while because i do some idling every now and then for work. But i know the truck well enuff to be pretty accurate with a conclusion. Realized i've been going through this crap for a bit longer tha i thought...
 

pcharm129

Original poster
Member
Aug 15, 2012
191
Made the smoker today and attached it the brake booster hose connection. Didnt see any leaks. Took the oil cap off and saw smoke wafting out. I believe thats supposed to happen, but please correct me if im wrong. Was wondering, since i dont have any codes, can i rule out EVAP leak and leakage from the fuel pump at the top of the gas tank?
 

littleblazer

Member
Jul 6, 2014
9,267
If a valve was open you would get some. Leak through pcv. Yea, that's normal. If you have a gas smell you have a gas leak. If there is an evap leak I don't really think it would affect mpg that drastically. Especially if there's no light.
 
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pcharm129

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Aug 15, 2012
191
littleblazer said:
If a valve was open you would get some. Leak through pcv. Yea, that's normal. If you have a gas smell you have a gas leak. If there is an evap leak I don't really think it would affect mpg that drastically. Especially if there's no light.
Thanx littleblazer.

Today i spoke to the mechanic that did my back pressure test. He said there is a machine called a 5 Gas Analyzer and a Fuel System Test Kit that might point something out. IF, i can find someplace that has them. Anybody know if these things can help me out? And if so, who might have them?

Also, i can't remember if i mentioned that the truck stalls from time to time when stopped at a light or idling. It happened today and I thought I should mention it, in case i hadn't already...
 

signalnc

Member
Dec 28, 2012
249
pcharm129 said:
Thanx littleblazer.

Today i spoke to the mechanic that did my back pressure test. He said there is a machine called a 5 Gas Analyzer and a Fuel System Test Kit that might point something out. IF, i can find someplace that has them. Anybody know if these things can help me out? And if so, who might have them?

Also, i can't remember if i mentioned that the truck stalls from time to time when stopped at a light or idling. It happened today and I thought I should mention it, in case i hadn't already...
I had some intermittent stalling from not doing a re-learn after cleaning the throttle body.

Don't take this the wrong way, but the only way to get your EXACT MPG is to fill it up to full every time. Not saying your MPG's are not what you say they are, but you want to really narrow this down, you must fill up, drive it, fill up--check MPG's...repeat....doing this quarter tank thing is going to get you some fluctuation in numbers....
 

pcharm129

Original poster
Member
Aug 15, 2012
191
signalnc said:
I had some intermittent stalling from not doing a re-learn after cleaning the throttle body.

Don't take this the wrong way, but the only way to get your EXACT MPG is to fill it up to full every time. Not saying your MPG's are not what you say they are, but you want to really narrow this down, you must fill up, drive it, fill up--check MPG's...repeat....doing this quarter tank thing is going to get you some fluctuation in numbers....
The stalling had always been a symptom during this whole mileage issue. Used to be worse though.

As far as mileage monitering. If you guys insist on full tank numbers, then so be it. But its going to take a WHILE... My driving is inconsistant. And sometimes i idle a lot, in relation to work. But if that's whats going to make everyone more comfortable, no problemo... I think there's been a "minor" improvement since the plug change though. And I'm going to try changing the pcm again this weekend. Couldn't get past the security bypass. But Mooseman gave me the rundown...
 

signalnc

Member
Dec 28, 2012
249
I tried looking up how much gas in burned while idling. I got some mixed results. From what I can tell sounds like you will burn approximately 1/4 of a gallon every 15 minutes. I think it can vary due to engine size, rpm speed at idle, and temperature.
Using the 1/4 gallon every 15 minutes rule, you could try and keep a log of your idle time and factor it in to your MPG calculation..
 
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pcharm129

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Aug 15, 2012
191
nagyiii said:
my Tstat took a dump this past winter, and I let it go for about a month. My gas mileage suffered dramatically. Once I replaced the tstat it got better, but it even improved more when I removed the resonator at the end of the exhaust. Mine was actually plugged up with charcoal size piece of stuff, not sure what it was, but it looked like charcoal. I can get about 450 miles to a tank full now at 70-75 mph highway.
I took my resonator off years ago. I WISH i could get 450 miles. That would be AWSOME at this point. I get about 320. And dont forget i have s 25 gsl tank...



Wooluf1952 said:
As long as you have inconsistent idling time, it's going to be hard to get a precise MPG reading.
Yeah i know. That's why i use 1/4 tank #'s. Much easier for consistancy. I know the guage fluctuates. Sometimes DARMATICALLY (at least mine does). But no matter WHAT, it ALWAYS lands on a 1/4 tank after 40 something miles. Its as dependable as the Farmer's Almanac. But as i previously stated, it MAY have improved by a few miles since the plug change. Hard to judge though because of the idling thing. But again, since most ppl on the forum insist that it has to run the full tank, i'll do it that way from now on. Its just going to be difficult and take longer.

signalnc said:
I tried looking up how much gas in burned while idling. I got some mixed results. From what I can tell sounds like you will burn approximately 1/4 of a gallon every 15 minutes. I think it can vary due to engine size, rpm speed at idle, and temperature.
Using the 1/4 gallon every 15 minutes rule, you could try and keep a log of your idle time and factor it in to your MPG calculation..
Thanx bro. If my math is correct, that's about a 1/4 tank every 6 hrs. I think its closer to 1/4 per 8 hrs, but i'll run with your calculation. This whole situation is nowhere near perfect. All these calculations here are educated and empiracal approximations. Thes one thing i think this ENTIRE forum can agree on is that i should NOT be getting 200 miles or less on a 25 gal tank, and that something VERY wrong is going on. Especially with everything that we've ruled out thus far. I think the stalling is related to the mileage problem. But of course i cant say for certain. I have no idea about fuel trims, but apparently THAT seems to be one of the significant factors here. If i can figure out what would/would not cause such high fuel trims, WITHOUT tripping CEL, and possibly cause occasional stalls, I think the sun will shine and fairys and butterflies and rainbows will finally permeate my dismal world...lol!
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,482
Ottawa, ON
Just to make things easier, if you have an Android phone, I use the the Fuelly app. Tracks MPG's very well but it has to be using full tanks each time you fuel up. Apple may have it too.
 
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signalnc

Member
Dec 28, 2012
249
pcharm129 said:
I took my resonator off years ago. I WISH i could get 450 miles. That would be AWSOME at this point. I get about 320. And dont forget i have s 25 gsl tank...
320 miles on a 25 gallon tank = 12.8 miles per gallon, and really it is higher because you're not running out. Say you run it down and put in 24 gallons. That is 13.3 mpg. 23 gallons would be 13.9........obviously not bad if it's around town.....if it's on the highway that would not be good and I would be concerned

If you factor in your idling, and the fact you are in NYC, your around town mileage is going to be lower. I get 14.5 around town. So really 13.9 or 13.3 is not that bad around town in your situation.
 

pcharm129

Original poster
Member
Aug 15, 2012
191
Mooseman said:
Just to make things easier, if you have an Android phone, I use the the Fuelly app. Tracks MPG's very well but it has to be using full tanks each time you fuel up. Apple may have it too.
Thanx Mooseman. But i don't see how that would help at this point. If the truck was running correctly, and i wanted to monitor how certain mods (CAI, resonator delete, pcm tune, etc) affected the mileage, i could see it being of assistance. In this case, however, there are no small increments to measure. Its an egregious fact that I'm getting less than half the mileage i should be. Until THAT condition chandes, i don't see point of an mpg logging app. FACT: i have a 25 gal tank. FACT: on average this truck should get 15mpg city. FACT: i am getting less than 200 miles on a full tank (which i personally know to be in the 160's). Some hwy driving is included in my total mileage. But that only shows that the 160 miles per tank may be even worse. But i dont want us to nit pick over that. Its negligible. If i DOUBLE my miles per tank it would still show that there's a problem.

signalnc said:
I also got the "dashcommand" app for ipad/iphone along with a wifi adapter for obd2. It shows fuel trims, and a bunch of other stuff

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B3K2X4M?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
I use Torque. I'm just not versed wit fuel trims and such. Im gonna try and get a little familiar thru google. I drove from Autozone to my house today and let Torque monitor in real time. I noticed that FT 1x1 went as high as 9.4 and as low as -11.2. And that FT 1x2 never moves from 99.2. Have NO idea what that means though...☺
 

signalnc

Member
Dec 28, 2012
249
quote from 4 posts up-

"I took my resonator off years ago. I WISH i could get 450 miles. That would be AWSOME at this point. I get about 320. And dont forget i have s 25 gsl tank..."

quote from last post-

"FACT: i have a 25 gal tank. FACT: on average this truck should get 15mpg city. FACT: i am getting less than 200 miles on a full tank (which i personally know to be in the 160's). Some hwy driving is included in my total mileage. But that only shows that the 160 miles per tank may be even worse. But i dont want us to nit pick over that. Its negligible. If i DOUBLE my miles per tank it would still show that there's a problem."

not trying to bust your b@ll$ but which one is it? 320 or 160?

I don't think you will ever see 15 mpg's in NYC with that truck. I get 14.5 mpg around town here in NC....NYC stop and go will eat up your mpg's.....FWIW I drove a truck in NYC for 14 years
 
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pcharm129

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Aug 15, 2012
191
signalnc said:
quote from 4 posts up-

"I took my resonator off years ago. I WISH i could get 450 miles. That would be AWSOME at this point. I get about 320. And dont forget i have s 25 gsl tank..."
Lol! We were talking about HWY miles... I was getting around 270. But on my trip to Myrtle Beach a month ago, i got something like 317! Good catch though...

I'm not expecting to get EXACTLY 15mpg. But something MUCH more reasonable than 7 mpg...
 

littleblazer

Member
Jul 6, 2014
9,267
Couple of other questions, What gear ratio do you happen to have? Also Like you said, 320 highway is... low, I get about 220-240 in town on around 17.5-19 gallons. One thing I have noticed, which might be bad, my around town driving has been essentially floor it off every light lately. I'm still getting 12.5 mpg including around 400lbs of gear hanging off the back in my box. Doing this as often as I have though, I've noticed throttle response seemed to have increased. I do not recommend this though. The other thing, my fuel pump died a couple of weeks ago. When it would get hot out, talking 80+ and high humidity, my mpg would tank from almost 13 to high 11. With the new pump it has been more consistent seemingly. I'm staring to wonder if you may have a bad injector leaking fuel and killing your mpg's. Or something to that effect. Mine also stalls randomly as well, it seems to be a common issue with no real rhyme or reason. I speculate it is the lack of a maf and it being unable to adjust the fuel trims quick enough.
 
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pcharm129

Original poster
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Aug 15, 2012
191
littleblazer said:
Couple of other questions, What gear ratio do you happen to have? Also Like you said, 320 highway is... low, I get about 220-240 in town on around 17.5-19 gallons. One thing I have noticed, which might be bad, my around town driving has been essentially floor it off every light lately. I'm still getting 12.5 mpg including around 400lbs of gear hanging off the back in my box. Doing this as often as I have though, I've noticed throttle response seemed to have increased. I do not recommend this though. The other thing, my fuel pump died a couple of weeks ago. When it would get hot out, talking 80+ and high humidity, my mpg would tank from almost 13 to high 11. With the new pump it has been more consistent seemingly. I'm staring to wonder if you may have a bad injector leaking fuel and killing your mpg's. Or something to that effect. Mine also stalls randomly as well, it seems to be a common issue with no real rhyme or reason. I speculate it is the lack of a maf and it being unable to adjust the fuel trims quick enough.
I have absolutely NO idea what gear ratio i have. How can i find that out for you? And i am DEFINITELY a hard driver. I know this is also putting a bit of a sting on my mileage, but im not really concerned about a mile per gallon or so loss. Its the 50%+ miles per gallon loss! Without 400lbs of gear...lol. Maybe 200lbs. I am also with you concerning the injector(s). Thinking a nozzle may have gotten enlarged and is maybe spraying too much gas without the PCM knowing it. When your fuel pump started to go did you get a CEL? Fuel trims show a problem?
 

littleblazer

Member
Jul 6, 2014
9,267
In the glove box is the rpo sticker, look for one of these:

GT4-3.73
GU6-3.42
GT5-4.10

Fuel trims were around 2.9, so no real issue there, no CEL, the only problem was intermittent stalling, which it didn't fix. I threw one lean out code in the last 40k, that was when it died doing 65 on route 9 on a 100 degree day with high humidity, my fan clutch was shot, engine temps holding at 225 degrees and trans around 190. I gunned it up hill, it felt really sluggish, bogged down then shut off. I coasted to the side of the road and it started a minute later.
 

signalnc

Member
Dec 28, 2012
249
pcharm129 said:
Lol! We were talking about HWY miles... I was getting around 270. But on my trip to Myrtle Beach a month ago, i got something like 317! Good catch though...

I'm not expecting to get EXACTLY 15mpg. But something MUCH more reasonable than 7 mpg...
317 out of a full tank on the highway is not very good at all,and 7 mpg's around town is just unacceptable.....it's acting like you're towing something heavy all the time...maybe there is something going on with the trans? or rear? brakes dragging?
 
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littleblazer

Member
Jul 6, 2014
9,267
pcharm129 said:
attachicon.gif
20150627_225017.jpg

This is all i saw...
Okay, You have 3.43s. Which should be the best fuel economy of them all. It will make the truck a little sluggish though. There is something seriously wrong here... I just don't know what. You could pull an oil sample and check for fuel dilution with an oil lab perhaps? That could point you toward a failing injector.

Edit: off the top of your head, you happen to know the rpm readout at 65 ish mph?
 

pcharm129

Original poster
Member
Aug 15, 2012
191
signalnc said:
317 out of a full tank on the highway is not very good at all,and 7 mpg's around town is just unacceptable.....it's acting like you're towing something heavy all the time...maybe there is something going on with the trans? or rear? brakes dragging?
I see no indications of any of the above. Well... I have had issues with the ABS module. Simultaneous ABS/BRAKE lights coming on together and in tandum. Security light too. All while driving. Had the module changed like 18 months or so ago. Started happening every once in a while. Mechanic said appearef to be loose wires. Fixed for a while, now its back. Dont think these are related though. Also having a problem with the Park Shift Switch (or whatever its called). The switch in the shifter that releases the key solenoid when you shift into park. It makes the solenoid jump with the slightest jiggle to the shifter or center console. And i usually have to jiggle it to release the key when i shut the truck off. Again, pretty sure its not related.

@littleblazer..Sorry, i don't. But at this point i'm thinking injectors or pcm...
 

Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
Next time you're on the highway take note of the RPM. With 3.42 gears and the stock tire size you should be around 2000 RPM IIRC (been a while since I had stock size tires on mine lol). If it is higher than that then you've likely got TCC issues in the transmission valve body, which would both kill MPG and can kill the trans in the long run (mostly from excessive heat).

I have some experience with this from my old car that uses the same 4L60E transmission. TCC wasn't locking, mpg dropped like a rock on the highway, and then it started the rest of the symptoms with gear revving and slamming. Thankfully at that point I figured it out and installed a kit in the valve body that fixed it before the trans died from it. This was years ago, that trans is now in my other car and still works fine.

Sorry if this was mentioned before and already covered, the thread is getting long and I'm having a hard time remembering everything gone over.
 

Mounce

Member
Mar 29, 2014
13,667
Tuscaloosa, AL
Off topic of your mpg issue but when the ABS/BRAKE light issue occurs does your AC blower also quit working? If so that's definitely your ignition switch. If the blower doesn't quit working then it might still be the ignition switch but normally the blower is included when the ignition switch fails.
 

gmcman

Member
Dec 12, 2011
4,656
Have you checked your intake manifold bolts yet? Using a 10MM socket, 1/4" drive, 6" extension with universal joint works the best.

If you have a vacuum leak, your O2 sensor will compensate with added fuel thus still reading normal....the O2 sensors will not tell you that there's a vacuum leak.
 

gmcman

Member
Dec 12, 2011
4,656
Also check the vacuum hose under the center of the intake runners. This goes from the crankcase to the center of #3 & #4 intake runner.
 

pcharm129

Original poster
Member
Aug 15, 2012
191
Sparky said:
Next time you're on the highway take note of the RPM. With 3.42 gears and the stock tire size you should be around 2000 RPM IIRC (been a while since I had stock size tires on mine lol). If it is higher than that then you've likely got TCC issues in the transmission valve body, which would both kill MPG and can kill the trans in the long run (mostly from excessive heat).

I have some experience with this from my old car that uses the same 4L60E transmission. TCC wasn't locking, mpg dropped like a rock on the highway, and then it started the rest of the symptoms with gear revving and slamming. Thankfully at that point I figured it out and installed a kit in the valve body that fixed it before the trans died from it. This was years ago, that trans is now in my other car and still works fine.

Sorry if this was mentioned before and already covered, the thread is getting long and I'm having a hard time remembering everything gone over.
No this wasn't mentioned. I'll definitely do that. Don't have stock tires tho. 22's with 35 tires. Same diameter tho. What's TCC???

Mounce said:
Off topic of your mpg issue but when the ABS/BRAKE light issue occurs does your AC blower also quit working? If so that's definitely your ignition switch. If the blower doesn't quit working then it might still be the ignition switch but normally the blower is included when the ignition switch fails.
No the blower stays on. And i changed the ignition switch already. When the situation was chronic. Just cause...

gmcman said:
Have you checked your intake manifold bolts yet? Using a 10MM socket, 1/4" drive, 6" extension with universal joint works the best.

If you have a vacuum leak, your O2 sensor will compensate with added fuel thus still reading normal....the O2 sensors will not tell you that there's a vacuum leak.
gmcman said:
Also check the vacuum hose under the center of the intake runners. This goes from the crankcase to the center of #3 & #4 intake runner.
I built a smoker and tested for vacuum leaks this week. Didn't see any...
 

gmcman

Member
Dec 12, 2011
4,656
pcharm129 said:
No this wasn't mentioned. I'll definitely do that. Don't have stock tires tho. 22's with 35 tires. Same diameter tho. What's TCC???
Ok, this changes things. What tire are you using? I would definitely recommend what Mooseman stated on filling up, drive for a couple days then refill. We really need to get an idea of how much you are actually using.
 

pcharm129

Original poster
Member
Aug 15, 2012
191
gmcman said:
Ok, this changes things. What tire are you using? I would definitely recommend what Mooseman stated on filling up, drive for a couple days then refill. We really need to get an idea of how much you are actually using.
Federal Couragia 285/35zr22 106w xl...
 

gmcman

Member
Dec 12, 2011
4,656
pcharm129 said:
Federal Couragia 285/35zr22 106w xl...
Ok, those are mud tires. I very seriously doubt you will see 20 MPG unless going downhill.

Sounds like you have a decent running motor, and have tall gears, which don't mix too well with that type of rubber if MPG's are concerned.

I would check your intake manifold bolts, and let us know what your vacuum is at idle. There's a molded hose at the base of the throttle body and is a good test point.
 
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Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
pcharm129 said:
No this wasn't mentioned. I'll definitely do that. Don't have stock tires tho. 22's with 35 tires. Same diameter tho. What's TCC???
TCC is torque converter clutch. basically, at highway speeds the cluch in the torque converter locks so as to reduce losses from the converter and reduce heat buildup from it as well. If that isn't working then the clutch stays unlocked and you loose a fair bit through the converter as engine RPM is a few hundred higher (more gas burned).

Federal Couragia look to be a pretty open/aggressive tread, and combined with 22 inch wheels will both negatively affect mpg.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,482
Ottawa, ON
pcharm129 said:
What's TCC???
That's the Torque Converter Clutch. Basically it's a clutch built into the torque converter that locks up the tranny to the engine, like a manual tranny, while cruising.

Edit: Got scooped by Sparky!

I agree that although the tire diameter may be the same, that tread would kill an MPG or two but not to your extent.
 

gmcman

Member
Dec 12, 2011
4,656
If you want to test the TCC and it's lockup function, get the truck at a cruise...about 50 to 60 mph on flat ground, steady cruise...don't lift your foot from the gas pedal. Reach over with you other foot and tap the brake pedal to turn the brake light on, this will unlock the TCC and you should see the RPM rise about 200 RPM. May be easier to do in 3rd, you will get TCC lock in 3rd as well.

With the PWM TCC control, the lockup is not as obvious, kinda subtle.

This needs to be done at operating temp, trans hot..give it about 15-20 min of driving.

To compare tires, I had both the latitude tour and the cross terrains, both gave me 270 miles per tank if I took it easy. These Kumhos tanked my mileage, almost 3 MPG...I could only imagine if I had some off-road tires.
 

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pcharm129

Original poster
Member
Aug 15, 2012
191
gmcman said:
Ok, those are mud tires. I very seriously doubt you will see 20 MPG unless going downhill.
They're not mud tires. They're all season low pro's. I think you looked at the wrong picture.IMG041.jpg10040-1.gif

I will get on that TCC test. How exactly do i do the vacuum test though? Is that anothe gauge i need to rent from autozone?


Thanx@ Sparky; Mooseman...
 

Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
Hate it when companies use the same name on two totally different tire types!
 
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gmcman

Member
Dec 12, 2011
4,656
pcharm129 said:
They're not mud tires. They're all season low pro's. I think you looked at the wrong picture.
attachicon.gif
IMG041.jpg
attachicon.gif
10040-1.gif
Ok, copy. I didn't see that tire, my bad.

Here are the vacuum ports, most SWB models don't have vacuum from the port on the intake, your LWB should.

The TB connector has a small tab protruding, push it down then pull from TB
 

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