Front Swaybar Link Replacement

Martyelzz4

Original poster
Member
Jan 3, 2013
67
Sprague, WA
I thought this was going to be a little easier but it was not too bad. I drove up on my ramps and figure since the bottom of the old endlink was broken off; I would not have to take off the passenger side wheel. Wrong, not enough room. Then, brake loose the lug nuts, jack up the car and put a jack stand under the frame; pull the wheel. Great! This was an original equipment endlink that most parts shops deny exists. Moog K6629, ordered from Rock Auto without choosing a vehicle type as they did not show it either. The top of the shaft is 7 mm and the nut is 15. Luckily, I had sprayed the threads yesterday when I changed the oil. I partially installed the new endlink then used a C-clamp get enough thread to get the 14 mm Nyloc nut started. After getting it started and thus not stripping the Nyloc; I put the tire/wheel back on and lowered the car back on the ramp. Oh also, let me introduce you to CorrosionX which I used to coat all the metal parts of the new endlink to thwart the rust a little while. Both the Nyloc nut and the head of the bolt are 14 mm. I used a ratcheting box end on top and let the socket and ratchet on the bottom press against the tire; then tightened as much as I could using the box end ratchet. I was done the the whole process in less than 45 minutes including tool clean up! AfterRatchetOff.jpg
 

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HARDTRAILZ

Moderator
Nov 18, 2011
49,665
Nice. I am swapping to those style LCA soon(I hope since they are in garage) and will have to build some hybrid links to use my style swaybar and those bolt thru style arms.

Thanks for the pics and info!
 

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