I would check wiring to fuel pump, I recently saw a thread where the wire was pinched by the body and caused the fuel pump to stop... or possibly ignition switch?jeffrobinson said:Since my last post post I've had two incidents. First was a sputter then stall under braking in morning rush hour, foot off gas pedal. The second was a no sputter, instant stall as I was coasting around a traffic circle. Starts with a quick right, then a long left bend around. The reason I give this detail is that is where this all began. That traffic circle i go around every morning has been home to more of the sudden death stalls than could be coincidence, I think. Does this trick sound familiar to anybody
It wouldn't really sound consistent with the symptoms. The catalytic converter has nothing to do with braking, after all. I mean this isn't necessarily while STOPPED after braking, it occurs DURING braking too, yes?jeffrobinson said:Howdy Texan!! Glad to see ur still here for us green horns! As to KNBlazer, no codes, and I went to the dealership and had the updates done, as well as a crank relearn after replacing the crank position sensor. Didn't help at all.
I'm a bit hesitant to ask a leading question but...a friend suggested a failing catalytic convertor may be my problem. He said the 100 mile run is blowing out crud, then it recollects after a couple weeks. What say you guys?
I concur. Sometimes an old school trained ear and eye can spot stuff even the best DIYer might miss. I have a mechanic who owns the Midas in Winchester VA and he/his team is phenomenal. They are always fair and would only try to rip you off a little IF you obviously had no idea what you were talking about. But other than that, go in there knowing what you're talking about in general, tip the actual tech doin the job/free 'estimate', and they treat you like gold. Taken every car I've owned in VA there and will still take the TB there if I need a mechanic. They also generally will let you bring your own part with no complaint. I've had them cut out and swap in a junkyard upper control arm on an old Aerostar for like 180 labor. Not bad considering it actually took 2 dudes like 4 hours to cut the beast out w/a torch without damaging the frame. The best DIYer will know when they are in over their head. It's a learning opportunity, anyway. They usually let me watch'em.IllogicTC said:The 0 readings may be coming from an idle coming down so much that the pressure temporarily goes below the switch's threshold. How low does the tach drop when it's in stall/stumble? It may be worth having a mechanic or if you're feeling generous with your wallet a dealership tech actually take the thing for a spin, as it may be something which isn't really showing up on scanning but would present obvious signs and evidence on the road.
I forgot about that, I remember reading it too. A proper play measurement would be to do the proper procedure and use the actual tool, which being a dealership I would have thought they would have on-hand with so may I6 units floating around out there. I'm not sure how much, if any, teardown is needed to measure it, it could be cheap (relatively speaking) or it could be a real money hose.jeffrobinson said:Howdy illogicTC. I did go to the dealership and gave them the truck for two days. They found nothing, but they did tell me with a crowbar they could pull my crank forward a 1/4 inch, which meant my endplay was so great that while braking the crank was sliding so far forward that it lost signal with the crank position sensor. The guys on this site called BS on that diagnosis for several reasons. And it was a few days after that diagnosis that I fixed it for 2 weeks after an oil change and a 100 mile drive.