While driving, the transmission feels like it goes into neutral. Then when I pull over and shut the vehicle off for a couple of minutes and restart it I can drive 20 to 30 feet then it feels like it goes into neutral again. I repeated this 3 or 4 times and finally had it towed to a friends house where it is sitting now. Any help would be appreciated as this is my wifes car and we are playing musical cars with my sons and my car.
`04 Isuzu Ascender 4.2L I-6 Transmission slips out of gear.
- Thread starter red53
- Start date
HARDTRAILZ
Moderator
- Nov 18, 2011
- 49,665
Sounds like bad news unfortunately. But take above advice and give it the once over and maybe it will be as simple as a fluid top off.
Have you ever serviced the tranny?
Have you ever serviced the tranny?
gmcman
Member
- Dec 12, 2011
- 4,656
Yes, definitely check the fluid, trans warm, engine idling, level ground. Could be a clogged filter but what ever you do.....
Don't rev up the engine hoping it will move if it's not moving under light throttle.
This is how you destroy the sunshell if it were to engage. Then it's rebuild time.
Don't rev up the engine hoping it will move if it's not moving under light throttle.
This is how you destroy the sunshell if it were to engage. Then it's rebuild time.
We bought the vehicle a little over a year ago and I haven`t serviced the trans since I`ve had it. I am going to try changing the filter and fluid and see if that helps. If not I guess I`ll be rebuilding. Thanks
gmcman
Member
- Dec 12, 2011
- 4,656
When you drop the pan, if it's not loaded with debris other than a little bit of silver slimy residue, you may be ok.
There's a metal bracket on the drivers side extending down to the lip of the pan. Loosen the 2 13mm bolts securing it to the trans and this will aid in pan removal, you don't need to remove the bracket.
If the filter pulls down with a moderate tug, don't sweat replacing the seal...it's a booger to get out.
Tighten the pan bolts to 100 inch pounds, you will need to go around the pan about 3 times to finally get the torque due to the gasket compressing.
I would personally flush the remaining 8 quarts or so once you get the pan reinstalled, but it wouldn't hurt to wait a few hundred miles first to make sure everything works before flushing the rest.
See if it drives with the pan drop first.
There's a metal bracket on the drivers side extending down to the lip of the pan. Loosen the 2 13mm bolts securing it to the trans and this will aid in pan removal, you don't need to remove the bracket.
If the filter pulls down with a moderate tug, don't sweat replacing the seal...it's a booger to get out.
Tighten the pan bolts to 100 inch pounds, you will need to go around the pan about 3 times to finally get the torque due to the gasket compressing.
I would personally flush the remaining 8 quarts or so once you get the pan reinstalled, but it wouldn't hurt to wait a few hundred miles first to make sure everything works before flushing the rest.
See if it drives with the pan drop first.
It still is acting up but. I had a check engine light on and I hooked up my snap-on scan tool and a mac scan tool and they both keep saying that I need to connect them to the vehicle. It`s not recognizing them. Is it possible the pcm is bad causing the transmission to act up?
gmcman
Member
- Dec 12, 2011
- 4,656
There's a few things it could be, alongside of just a worn out trans but it will take some getting dirty if you are mechanically inclined. Removing the valve body isn't difficult, but there are a lot of parts that can break or wear and could cause your conditions.
First we need to get the codes, could be something as simple as a shift solenoid. Does it work if you start with the shifter in "2" This will select 2nd gear from the start.
First we need to get the codes, could be something as simple as a shift solenoid. Does it work if you start with the shifter in "2" This will select 2nd gear from the start.
