yet another blower motor question

[kickass audio]

So my lovely Envoy (I am really getting fed up with this thing) has a blower motor problem. On my way to work I had it on speed 3 and then noticed it was getting cool in my truck. I tried to put the fan on all 5 speeds with no fan engagement at all. I in the past lengthened the wires going to the blower motor so I figured that might be a problem again so I checked them and only found one to be a little loose where I extended it and it was the light blue one. I had fixed that and still no motor.

The weird thing I noticed is that if I put the recirculate on and then turn the switch to off the recirculate does not turn off at all. Normally if I were to have my blower on speed 1-5 and then turn on recirculate and then turn the blower to 0 or off the recirculate would turn off. Mine isn't doing that. I had turned the knob on the right for the blend doors and they work just fine, I can hear them engaging perfectly.

I had checked the HVAC fuses under the rear seat and they are perfect, no breaks or blows on them. I read on another thread here to check under hood fuse 35 for it being blown and I have not checked that yet but will when I go on break at work.

Can someone think of what wire or problem it could be with my truck? Those wires that come out of the HVAC control, are they ground switched or hot switched? I was thinking if it is still a problem tonight after I leave work that I could hook up a battery charger to the leads the right way and then feed power through those wires to see if it makes the fan kick on to try and bypass a problem with the switch in the dash.

 

[jimmyjam]

Do you have digital or manual HVAC controls? manual has a traditional resistor array, digital has an electronic fan controller (harder to diagnose)

 

[kickass audio]

Sorry should have specified that. It is manual. It just seems so weird and I am puzzled by it. I don't know if the fuse under the hood would affect the way the recirculate turns off if I go from 1-5 to 0. It also is supposed to shut off the A/C switch when you turn the knob to 0 and it doesn't. I was looking at the schematic for the wiring and the brown and orange connector for the control module that make it turn on and off with ignition and battery power are the only thing I am thinking of.

There is that dark green wire that loops from the speed switch to the blower control but that is untouched and is fine at the module.

 

[kickass audio]

Question too, do any of you guys know if there is a place I can buy a new connector for the speed selector switch where it connects to the control module? I was thinking to get a replacement harness that plugs into the resistor pack and then get another connector where it goes into the control module and solder the wires together nice instead of the crap way mine are connected now.

 

[The_Roadie]

All connectors are available somewhere. Mouser, Rockauto, NAPA. But the control switch is almost never the problem, and you can eliminate it in ten minutes with your meter and reading the schematic.

I don't know of any actuator connection to the blower speed control being at zero, including the recirculate. The AC compressor should indeed get suppressed.

Added: The switch, as seen here, acts on the high side of the resistor pack.

View attachment 33540

 

[navigator]

have you checked the blower resistor?
Mine started acting flaky for a while before going out completely.
It wouldn't work on high but would work on other speeds.
It would then on certain days(usually the really cold ones) not work at all.
It then completely quit.

If you pull it out it is likely the harness is melted into the resistor, it is a good sign that your resistor is bad.
From what I have read you usually have to replace the resistor and the harness. I think it was about $65 for both parts at my local auto parts store.

It is easier if you go ahead and pull the glove box out.
I could get mine out without removing the glove box but couldn't get it back in without removing it.

 

[kickass audio]

I know the harness at the control module isn't the problem but what I was thinking to do would be to get the aftermarket connector that goes into the resistor pack and get a spare connector that goes into the control module. Get some primary wire, prob like 14ga and then solder it on both ends to lengthen the wire a little. That is what I was thinking instead of cutting the harness off at the control module and then connecting it all together.

If it wasn't for the problem where the darn recirc and a/c were still engaged when the switch is set to 0 then I would think its just another bad blower resistor. I don't know if the fuse under the hood needs to be intact in order for the module to realize the switch is set to 0 so I really hope its just a blown fuse under the hood. I will find out in another 10 when I go on break at work.

 

[kickass audio]

have you checked the blower resistor?
Mine started acting flaky for a while before going out completely.
It wouldn't work on high but would work on other speeds.
It would then on certain days(usually the really cold ones) not work at all.
It then completely quit.

If you pull it out it is likely the harness is melted into the resistor, it is a good sign that your resistor is bad.
From what I have read you usually have to replace the resistor and the harness. I think it was about $65 for both parts at my local auto parts store.

It is easier if you go ahead and pull the glove box out.
I could get mine out without removing the glove box but couldn't get it back in without removing it.

I won't rule out a resistor pack being bad but the last time (yea I know its bad to call it like that as it isn't what could be going on NOW) I replaced the resistor pack the wiring going into the resistor pack was perfect. No melting on the jacket or connectors and the pins were nice and shiny. I had a resistor pack that was just old and really rusty so I replaced it and it was all good after but back then when it happened I only had lost speeds 1-4, 5 still worked.

 

[The_Roadie]

If it wasn't for the problem where the darn recirc and a/c were still engaged when the switch is set to 0 then I would think its just another bad blower resistor. I don't know if the fuse under the hood needs to be intact in order for the module to realize the switch is set to 0 so I really hope its just a blown fuse under the hood. I will find out in another 10 when I go on break at work.

The schematic has a huge clue that this could be the case.

 

[kickass audio]

The schematic has a huge clue that this could be the case.

All hail the Roadie and the schematic you posted on another thread. It was fuse 44 as I suspected. I have since replaced it and it is working great for all 5 speeds and now then I cut it to 0 it turns off recirc and a/c.

Thank you everyone for your help as always! Love this forum!

edit: The weird thing with the fuse though is I had checked the 2 10a fuses but when I was looking the fuse picture over that is on the fusebox cover, I never saw just HVAC and the 30a fuse.