wiring help for shifter solenoid

linneje

Original poster
Member
Apr 26, 2012
404
I wasn't able to shift out of park. I found the shifter solonoid under the center console, and pushed the button to get the Envoy back in the garage, but the problem remained. I removed the center console between the passenger and driver seats. The solonoid has a five wire connector, and two of the wires were pulled out. Red, yellow, black, red/black, and blue/black are the five wire colors. Does anyone know the order they should be connected in? The center three were still connected.
 

linneje

Original poster
Member
Apr 26, 2012
404
I found this picture, perhaps this will help. It looks like the two wires that I saw were connected to the back bracket (although when I removed the console, they were not connected to anything). The Black Green and Yellow are connected to the front (right) bracket that is in the foreground of the picture - they were intact for me. Can anyone identify the correct location of the other two wires that are not in the foreground of the picture?
 

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linneje

Original poster
Member
Apr 26, 2012
404
OK, on closer inspection the placement was obvious, since the wires had broken pieces left in the connector. Now I just have to find a way to repair or replace this. I have a feeling that I won't be able to just purchase the harness to splice on ...
 

AtlWrk

Member
Dec 6, 2011
674
These connectors are pretty easy to repair once you figure out how to disassemble them.

A small flat screwdriver and a straigntened paperclip are usually all you need.

The blue pieces on the back of the connector are secondary locks that hold the pins in the grey connector. They'll be held in place by small tabs on the sides. Gentrly pry the tabs to release.

Once you get those off the pins are still held in inside the connector by metal tabs on the pins themselves. Insert the paperclip in the pin cavity (try the back and front and all around) while trying to push/pull the pin out. Once you get one out you'll see how it was held in.

GM dealers will typically stock replacement terminals for a few bucks (total ripoff for something that costs 6cents online) but they know they can charge for the convenience.

Strip the wires, crimp on the new terminals, insert into the connector, resintall the blue lock clips. Presto!
 

linneje

Original poster
Member
Apr 26, 2012
404
Thanks a bunch. With your explanation, the pins came out fairly easily. Now I just need to buy some of those pin terminals, crimp them on, back in the plastic bracket and I should be set. I thought I was going to have to splice or sauder something.

You wonder how these would even break, being under the plastic console and everything, but I read on the site whose name shall not be mentioned of other people who have found those wires broken as well.

Thanks again for the help.
 

AtlWrk

Member
Dec 6, 2011
674
Glad you got it. :thumbsup:

And that was going to be my follow-up question: how would these wires have broken in the first place?
 

linneje

Original poster
Member
Apr 26, 2012
404
A year ago I couldn't get the key out when in park ... now I couldn't get it out of park ... since I found two broken wires, I have a feeling that repairing this will solve both problems.
 

linneje

Original poster
Member
Apr 26, 2012
404
Yes, I was correct. After putting it back together, I can now shift out of park and I can take my key out normally (before I had to insert a pencil to hit the solenoid bypass below the ignition).

BTW Atlwrk, you were right about the cost. Each connector, probably worth 20cents online, cost me $4.50 at the GMDealer. At least they had the connectors (the parts guys searched for 10min to find them). But since I fixed it for $22 bucks versus a few hundred at the dealer, I prefer to think of the glass as half full. :thumbsup:
 

Nifty

Member
Jan 15, 2012
1
I know how these break, they are attached to a moving part- the shifter and the more you shift in and out of park the more likely it is they will go. I have had to break open the center console 3 times, today is my 3rd time to repair this. First time it happened the truck would not get out of park. I put in a small pin hold and put a small screwdriver in the center console and instructed my wife on how to manually actuate the release if it ever happened to her. The second time it was a different wire that pulled out. The 3rd time the symptom was the key would not come out of the ignition and the truck was stuck in the AUX position certain to drain the battery of anyone who did not know there was a key release hole on the column that you could stick a pen cap or screwdriver in to release the key. I am willing to bet dealers have made thousands on these repairs and some have even decided to trade in on a new vehicle at the dealer when confronted with the bill to repair this item. Next time it happens I am upgrading the entire assembly with thicker gauge and soldering the assembly in place.
 

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filthyfingers

Lifetime VIP Donor
Member
Apr 7, 2012
103
linneje said:
Yes, I was correct. After putting it back together, I can now shift out of park and I can take my key out normally (before I had to insert a pencil to hit the solenoid bypass below the ignition).

BTW Atlwrk, you were right about the cost. Each connector, probably worth 20cents online, cost me $4.50 at the GMDealer. At least they had the connectors (the parts guys searched for 10min to find them). But since I fixed it for $22 bucks versus a few hundred at the dealer, I prefer to think of the glass as half full. :thumbsup:

BINGO! My trouble exactly. Black wire broke inside the connector - became intermittent. I skinned the wire and soldered it to a 3" length of 20 something gauge and forced the end into the connector block along side the pin that I couldn't remove. Not pretty but it works just fine now.
 

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