While replacing CV axle -- do I also do control arms and struts?

6716

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Member
Jul 24, 2012
822
So the front end -- at least on the driver's side -- is pretty much apart. Steering knuckle is out. I am about to pull the CV axle since it is clicking.

I am tempted to replace the LCA at least since it is original, and I would get a whole new one with the ball joint and be done. Except, once I replaced the links, I don't really have any noise on the driver's side going over bumps. There is some on the passenger side that I think might be the UBJ.

Preventive maintenance is good, but if it ain't broke don't fix it, right?

And then if I do the LCA, I might as well go after the strut, right? Struts have about 50k miles on them. But again, I don't seem to be having dampening issues right now.

I also have a garage and my air tools set up, so better now than maybe some point in the future where I don't.

Also I am kind of trying to do sort of an overhaul so that I can be mostly good on stuff for the next 50-60k miles.

Plus I kind of like to spread out my parts purchases, so if I go for all of it I am going to dump a lot into parts at once.

Anyway, just kind of thinking out loud. Pros and cons.
 

Reprise

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Jul 22, 2015
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The knuckle / front axle is the repetitive part of that job.

Depending on the miles, I'd consider replacing the upper / lower ball joints; GM original equipment aren't known for lasting past 80-100K miles, at the outside.

If the shocks have 50K on them, those could be ready too, if they were replaced with OEM-quality. I'd leave the springs, and just replace the shocks / mounts. Again, the knuckle has to be at least disconnected from the top, for this, so... (and the axle pushed back / out of the knuckle, too)

Outer tie rods would be easy to get to, and the sway links / bushings are there, too.

If you're keeping it for the long haul (sounds like you are), it might be good to rebuild the front. It'll ride like new, when you're done. Get good quality ball joints; the rest doesn't have to be super high-quality (Detroit Axle has entire kits available, and they're about the cheapest out there).

If you do the tie rods, or the entire LCA, you'll need an alignment, afterward.

For a 'winter' project, you can put new sway links on the rear, if those are original.
 
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MBS1994

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May 26, 2019
326
Colorado
If you go all out might as well do the rods to while you are there. I'm mad at myself for not doing it all at once since I've replaced nearly the whole front end by now
 
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6716

Original poster
Member
Jul 24, 2012
822
I ordered LCAs and struts.

Front links I did two months ago. I deleted the rear links for a couple of reasons at the same time.

Tie rod ends are new-ish, at least for mileage. My truck sat for 4 years while I waited to rebuild the transmission. Tie rods went in with a rack replacement about 10,000 miles ago. At least on the driver's side it seems plenty tight.

UBJ on the driver's side is newish and seems ok.

I have the driver's side apart. There's still a clunk on the passenger side even after links so I'm thinking it's either the LCA or UBJ on that side.
 

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