tricguy007
Member
- Dec 7, 2011
- 131
I use dino oil summer i change every 3k and winter every 2500 just because of the condensation buildup I do a lot of short trips
When should I change my oil?
- Thread starter Wooluf1952
- Start date
TangoBravo
Member
- Dec 5, 2011
- 208
I send my oil in for analysis at 17,000 and generally get around another 2,500-3,000 out of my oil. I don't go by time in use or mileage as I have found after analysis with my TB those methods don't work.
I use amsoil with their ea filter and change my oil every 12000 miles. Been thinking of going out to 18000 miles or one year which ever comes first
strat81
Member
- Dec 29, 2011
- 399
It's good to see this is going the way all oil change threads do. Has anyone mentioned Hitler or invited another member to engage in copulation with a maternal family member yet?
As I said on the OS, I won't disagree with anyone here, but I will say that most people are dogmatic in their approach to motor oil - brand, change intervals, filters, additives, etc.
Trying to change someone's mind about motor oil is like trying to change their mind about their religion. A few people might convert, but it usually devolves into a screaming match.
Visit - Bob is the Oil Guy. "To hear, one has only to listen."
For the Rainier, I change it according to the OLM using a Pure One filter and Valvoline Max Life. I think a used a quart of Valvoline VR-1 I had laying around during my last oil change.
For my 2001 Honda CR-V, which cruises 3,500 RPM on the interstate but is driven less than 3k miles a year, I change it once a year, also with Pure One filters and Valvoline Max Life.
Why did I choose those? They got decent reviews at various places around the web and I stocked up on them for a good price. When I run out, I'll buy a few cases of something else that I can get on sale or with a rebate.
I'd sooner use my old boxer shorts inside a Folgers can than use a Fram filter. I've had two vehicles experience mild oil pressure issues that went away when I switched away from Fram. Seeing the inside of one was the nail in the coffin.
As for dino sauce vs. synthetic, I would use a dino with a good additive package before I used a synthetic with a poor additive package. Used and virgin oil analyses are available at BobIsTheOilGuy.com.
Remember that the factory recommendation for oil is a compromise. Your priorities may not align with the factory's.
There are plenty of good oils out there and plenty of good filters. There is no "best" oil for all users and engines.
As I said on the OS, I won't disagree with anyone here, but I will say that most people are dogmatic in their approach to motor oil - brand, change intervals, filters, additives, etc.
Trying to change someone's mind about motor oil is like trying to change their mind about their religion. A few people might convert, but it usually devolves into a screaming match.
Visit - Bob is the Oil Guy. "To hear, one has only to listen."
For the Rainier, I change it according to the OLM using a Pure One filter and Valvoline Max Life. I think a used a quart of Valvoline VR-1 I had laying around during my last oil change.
For my 2001 Honda CR-V, which cruises 3,500 RPM on the interstate but is driven less than 3k miles a year, I change it once a year, also with Pure One filters and Valvoline Max Life.
Why did I choose those? They got decent reviews at various places around the web and I stocked up on them for a good price. When I run out, I'll buy a few cases of something else that I can get on sale or with a rebate.
I'd sooner use my old boxer shorts inside a Folgers can than use a Fram filter. I've had two vehicles experience mild oil pressure issues that went away when I switched away from Fram. Seeing the inside of one was the nail in the coffin.
As for dino sauce vs. synthetic, I would use a dino with a good additive package before I used a synthetic with a poor additive package. Used and virgin oil analyses are available at BobIsTheOilGuy.com.
Remember that the factory recommendation for oil is a compromise. Your priorities may not align with the factory's.
There are plenty of good oils out there and plenty of good filters. There is no "best" oil for all users and engines.
02 green tb
Member
Wow, i'm glad i read this thread. I always change mine out at 4,500 miles. I think after reading this I can actually stretch it to 5-6 thousand. I hate shelling out extra cash if I don't have too. I use Wal Mart's cheapy oil 5w-30. I drive about 20,000 miles a year as it's my only vehicle. I work quite a distance from my house so it's mainly highway miles. Thanks for starting this article!
Sparky
Member
- Dec 4, 2011
- 12,927
FWIW I usually get about 13k miles before my OLM light comes on (I don't have the readout, just the little dash light on my truck). I'm running Mobil 1 ever since I got the truck. Got it with 112k, has 159k now, runs better than when I got it since I keep the throttle body clean 
I was skeptical about the OLM but its been tried and tested, so I've been sticking with it. The oil comes out at 13k looking like the oil that came out of my old 98 Camaro at 5-6k
in which case from appearance it seems to be fine.
I was skeptical about the OLM but its been tried and tested, so I've been sticking with it. The oil comes out at 13k looking like the oil that came out of my old 98 Camaro at 5-6k
in which case from appearance it seems to be fine.
Voymom
Member
- Feb 3, 2012
- 2,523
I go by the OLM or how dirty the oil starts getting.
I have had the truck since Jan, purchased with 113k miles and it has 117xxx miles now.
I have changed the oil once, but only because
1) We needed to flush the oil due to adding an additive that practically killed the truck and CPAS
2) It was dino oil, and we use Mobile 1 full synthetic and K&N oil filter
We changed the oil March 6th of this year due to a bad engine additive, used mobile 1 full syn and K&N oil filter
I have 117k miles on him now and OLM says 65% oil life. I will change the oil at around 10-15% or sooner if it looks dirty enough.
I have had the truck since Jan, purchased with 113k miles and it has 117xxx miles now.
I have changed the oil once, but only because
1) We needed to flush the oil due to adding an additive that practically killed the truck and CPAS
2) It was dino oil, and we use Mobile 1 full synthetic and K&N oil filter
We changed the oil March 6th of this year due to a bad engine additive, used mobile 1 full syn and K&N oil filter
I have 117k miles on him now and OLM says 65% oil life. I will change the oil at around 10-15% or sooner if it looks dirty enough.
RayVoy said:
Ray, this is exactly what I do as well. Sadly, I bet if you went door to door taking a survey you would find that most people have not changed their oil within the past year.
Voymom said:
More important that how dirty the oil looks is how much oil you are burning. This will give you an indication of how worn out the piston rings and valve seals are. Keep in mind that oil normally should get dirty. The main reason oil gets black is because of carbon deposition from combustion on the cylinder walls getting scrapped off and suspended in the oil.
I have gone by the OLM on my work vehicles since they were new. Each of them was making discernible valvetrain noise at 50-60k with all necessary maintenance and adjustments done at the local dealership. You guys can stick to the OLM but I will foolishly spend more money to change more often and convince myself that I'm preventing greater damage down the road. I am sure many of you have different experiences, perhaps even more personal data than I have available to me. The reality is that my opinions weren't formed by listening to random people on the internet and it won't be changed by listening to random people on the internet. Believing that any of you (or myself for that matter) are infallible is as ridiculous as believing the manual is gospel.
During my carfax check I found out this vehicle is enrolled in the valvoline warranty program and I intend on continuing it. Not because I think it needs a change every 4k miles, but because my vehicle might do 8k miles a year so one oil change every six months especially with how often it sits and the number of quick trips where it doesn't get a chance to heat up to temperature isn't a bad idea IMO.
During my carfax check I found out this vehicle is enrolled in the valvoline warranty program and I intend on continuing it. Not because I think it needs a change every 4k miles, but because my vehicle might do 8k miles a year so one oil change every six months especially with how often it sits and the number of quick trips where it doesn't get a chance to heat up to temperature isn't a bad idea IMO.
I'm comfortable with every 5 K miles. I'm running the Synthetic Blend, High Mileage Valvoline. My Envoy has 165 K miles on it.
Boricua SS
Member
i dont go by my OLM... since ive owned my SS, i have seen that go off 2 times...
so i dont go by any of that.. i change my oil every 5-6k miles (mobile 1 synthetic)... it still didnt prevent my motor from spinning a bearing due to lack of lubrication... but i'll never go off the DIC/OLM... hell, the DIC cant even calculate gas mileage correctly, why would i trust it with my oil?
so i dont go by any of that.. i change my oil every 5-6k miles (mobile 1 synthetic)... it still didnt prevent my motor from spinning a bearing due to lack of lubrication... but i'll never go off the DIC/OLM... hell, the DIC cant even calculate gas mileage correctly, why would i trust it with my oil?
Boricua SS
Member
91RS said:
well that and possibly my sprited driving from time to time
more modded ones blow up over stock... but i dont drive like an old lady... so i paid the price 
Our previous 2007 TB with a 4.2 towing our 5000 lb trailer. Had it in 3rd gear a lot. The OLM had me changing the oil two or three times a year.
seanpooh
Member
- Jan 24, 2012
- 461
View attachment 20917
Just an overview of my driving. I drive to work, school, girlfriends house and deliver pizzas. In one month I drive atleast 2,000 miles
My first analysis: 7 Quarts of Royal Purple 5W-30 with Purlator PureOne Filter
Second analysis: 7 Quarts Royal Purple 5W-30 with Mobil1 FIlter
Third analysis: 7 Quarts Royal Purple 5W-30 with K&N Filter
Fourth analysis: 10 Quarts Royal Purple 5W-30 with Amsoil dual filter remote bypass (ended up going 10,000 miles before draining)
Using a good syntethic oil through out ~40,000 miles, Mobil1 filter got used up fast. Purlator filtered the best in terms of stock. TBN really depends on your driving style during the interval and if the oil has fuel in it and what not.
The 7,264 mile run on the bypass Amsoil set up did ridiculously better than stock and I bet I could have gone 15,000 miles safely. Don't go by the DIC, it doesn't tell you how dirty your oil is and how much active additives are left.
The oil using small filters at 5K miles, the iron, insolubles and more are high already as it is and TBN low. Imagine following your DIC and going the 12K miles with stock filters.
Just an overview of my driving. I drive to work, school, girlfriends house and deliver pizzas. In one month I drive atleast 2,000 miles
My first analysis: 7 Quarts of Royal Purple 5W-30 with Purlator PureOne Filter
Second analysis: 7 Quarts Royal Purple 5W-30 with Mobil1 FIlter
Third analysis: 7 Quarts Royal Purple 5W-30 with K&N Filter
Fourth analysis: 10 Quarts Royal Purple 5W-30 with Amsoil dual filter remote bypass (ended up going 10,000 miles before draining)
Using a good syntethic oil through out ~40,000 miles, Mobil1 filter got used up fast. Purlator filtered the best in terms of stock. TBN really depends on your driving style during the interval and if the oil has fuel in it and what not.
The 7,264 mile run on the bypass Amsoil set up did ridiculously better than stock and I bet I could have gone 15,000 miles safely. Don't go by the DIC, it doesn't tell you how dirty your oil is and how much active additives are left.
The oil using small filters at 5K miles, the iron, insolubles and more are high already as it is and TBN low. Imagine following your DIC and going the 12K miles with stock filters.
Attachments
seanpooh said:
You spend roughly $500 a month on gas? Geez. Perhaps you should consider loosing the pizza gig and save some dough!
I sent my oil sample to get analyized and it came back that I needed to change my oil. I was at just over 15,000 miles, and I changed it 7 months to the day that I did the last oil change.
I use AMSOIL Signature series oil (25k or 1 year oil changes) and the EAo filter (25k filter).
when i figure out how to put my report up here I will post it.
Steve
I use AMSOIL Signature series oil (25k or 1 year oil changes) and the EAo filter (25k filter).
when i figure out how to put my report up here I will post it.
Steve
seanpooh
Member
- Jan 24, 2012
- 461
Yeah, I spend ~$500-$600 on gas per month but I make double that per month. So I think it's a sound investment. I just love driving my Envoy.
I too just filled up with 10 quarts of Amsoil Signature Series 5W-30 and two new filters. I will go for 10,000 miles and have the analysis done. Of course you guys will be the first to see the numbers.
I too just filled up with 10 quarts of Amsoil Signature Series 5W-30 and two new filters. I will go for 10,000 miles and have the analysis done. Of course you guys will be the first to see the numbers.
seanpooh
Member
- Jan 24, 2012
- 461
Wooluf1952 said:
Nope, 10 quarts of oil. Remember my thread about my new oil sump capacity. Because of the Amsoil dual filter bypass which has two oversized filters and extra hosing, there is a need in extra oil. Both filters need 1.5 quarts each bringing the sump to 10 quarts.
Sorry. I forgot about it and missed it in post #57.seanpooh said:
Do you have pictures of where you mounted your bypass? I have my bypass sitting in the garage still, just waiting for some time to be able to spend at the hobby shop to install it.
With your pictures I might get an idea on where to mount it.
Thanks,
Steve
I believe I have a bout 5000 miles on it.
Yesterday I got a P0014 code and I read I probably need to change oil.
So I will try this and go with mobile 1 this time.
Nice that I got access to a car lift so I don't have to lay under the vehicle.
This Saturday I will do it before we get another 100 degrees (38C) on Sunday.
Yesterday I got a P0014 code and I read I probably need to change oil.
So I will try this and go with mobile 1 this time.
Nice that I got access to a car lift so I don't have to lay under the vehicle.
This Saturday I will do it before we get another 100 degrees (38C) on Sunday.
seanpooh
Member
- Jan 24, 2012
- 461
Steve A said:
View attachment 21190
View attachment 21191
View attachment 21192
I put the bypass in the same place as another Amsoil dealer did with his Envoy on the submitted page. It's really not a bad place.
My father has a FS2500 that he mounted on his frame but horizontally. Then again his system is more of a cartridge type. I wanted mine vertical so that I can prefill the filters before spinning them on.
I welded on the the unit then sprayed some rubberized coating prevent rust. I also took a 1/4 piece of metal, added an angle iron to it and welded it in front of the oil unit to protect the filters from flying debris and roadkill. The bend on the bottom makes a nice touch.
The hoses themselves I ran above the CV joint and the tie rod. I put one of those electrical hide cable thingies to reduce rubbing wear on the actual hoses (the hoses aren't cheap, $10/ft). I zipped tied them to the frame in places I could.
One problem is that the hose is in the vicinity of the exhaust so I need some heat shield of some sort to wrap it in that area. But other than that, it's been good so far.
Attachments
So I changed my oil today, sorry no pictures.
I had some problems to get the screw of the oil pan, but after it, it was fine.
And the oil was kind of very dark.
Now I have Mobil 1 in it, and I proably will change it in about 5000 miles or one year, whatever comes first.
When I put new oil in, it already showed kind of full with the 6th qt.
I now toped it of with 6.5 qt, as I didn't want to overfill it.
I will check it the next couple of days.
Also the oil pressure was always a little over normal, now it is right in the middle.
I had some problems to get the screw of the oil pan, but after it, it was fine.
And the oil was kind of very dark.
Now I have Mobil 1 in it, and I proably will change it in about 5000 miles or one year, whatever comes first.
When I put new oil in, it already showed kind of full with the 6th qt.
I now toped it of with 6.5 qt, as I didn't want to overfill it.
I will check it the next couple of days.
Also the oil pressure was always a little over normal, now it is right in the middle.
The oil pressure gauge is only a fancy idiot light. (Unless you added your own after market gauge. Or have a V8.)
When the oil gets to a set pressure, the PCM makes-up a reading that the it thinks will keep from scaring the driver.
When the oil gets to a set pressure, the PCM makes-up a reading that the it thinks will keep from scaring the driver.
Opeth
Member
- Mar 25, 2012
- 177
I use to follow whenever the idiot light came on, first two years of ownership it was right around 9-10k miles. That's what I was advised by my dealer and the owners manual. Now after I had to have my head replaced due to a burned valve (no reason was actually given to me why this happened) I will go back to always doing my synthetics at 5k.
seanpooh
Member
- Jan 24, 2012
- 461
LBB said:
Yep, Wooluf1952 is right. The oil gauge will only tell you if you have pressure or not. It won't tell you "actual" pressure.
As for the oil capacity, the Inline Six will hold 7 quarts of oil which includes the capacity of the oil filter.
Run it for a few trip and let it cool off; check the dipstick.
When I used to changed my oil with the stock filter, I always used 7 quarts. Pre filled the filter then spinned it on and the rest of the oil went it. It was like clock-work.
5000 miles on the oil is a good interval.
Opeth said:
Oil had nothing to do with the valves being burned. You bought the truck at 49K and the previous owner abused it more than likely.
seanpooh said:
I am used to vehicles that actually have more than only one check engine light and that show an actual pressure.
Never understood why the US cars are so different from the rest of the world. Does nobody trust the drivers here that they can make there own decisions when it comes to their vehicles?
Sparky
Member
- Dec 4, 2011
- 12,927
LBB said:
Given how the majority of US drivers are idiots when it comes to their cars...
The issue is when you have people who do know what they are doing it drives us nuts to have these "idiot resistant" designs as it makes our lives harder. The majority making it difficult for the minority I guess you could say.
The ones who have been told they're "amazing", "outstanding", and "above average", their whole (short) lives by their helicopter parents. Half of them (by DEFINITION) are below average. Wicked sorry. Many are just inattentive, low IQ, poor learners, and richly deserve to take up their appointed positions as garbage collectors, sorters of recycled materials, and used car lot auto vacuumers. The oil life monitor system and pressure gauge are just windows into this possible future of a world without enough qualified designers of products for smart people.Mark20 said:
For more reading: The Marching Morons - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
A film: Idiocracy - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
That's kind of sad.
I drove of vehicles, but here I had to by a code reader for my vehicles, as I couldn't see what could be wrong with them.
And even when you have the code, this means nothing.
But at least I have new oil in my vehicle, and it looks good.
And I checked it today, the dip stick shows full after 6.5 qt.
I might change my oil in december again, maybe there is some slug of so left that needs to come out.
I drove of vehicles, but here I had to by a code reader for my vehicles, as I couldn't see what could be wrong with them.
And even when you have the code, this means nothing.
But at least I have new oil in my vehicle, and it looks good.
And I checked it today, the dip stick shows full after 6.5 qt.
I might change my oil in december again, maybe there is some slug of so left that needs to come out.
BuckeyeEvan
Member
- Apr 1, 2012
- 63
I use my DIC on my V8 and change it when it gets between 20 and 25%, using Dino. (which I hear is pretty close to Syn, nowadays) At that point I am usually around 7.5k miles. I really try to replace before it passes 7.5k since I don't want to push my Dino.