2005 Trailblazer LS I6 with 135,000 miles. Previous owner put a new transmission, fan clutch and water pump in around 100,000. That’s all I know for the history of this vehicle.
I’ve owned it for about 8 months now. Below is everything I’ve personally done since I picked her up.
All new fluids
New tires
New brakes
Wheel bearing
Alternator
Spark plugs
Ignition coil in #3
Camshaft position sensor
Variable timing actuator solenoid
New rear sway bar
Blow motor resistor
I first had an issue with lost power and rough idle. Ran it for a few hundred miles before she threw a P0300 and a P0014. I found the coil in #3 was shot and the VVT actuator was bad. Replaced both, and she was happy again. Shortly after that we hit some brutally cold temps here in Chicago and the rough idle came back. This time it was only when the engine was cold and only when in gear. Once you put it in “P” or “N” or the engine warmed up, the motor idles smooth as glass. I chalked it up to bad motor mounts and I’m going to replace those in the spring.
Now to my problem that has me puzzled. Right around the same time the motor mount issue popped up, I started getting a very slight vibration in OD while doing 45. It would go away when locking it into 3 or bringing the RPMs up past 1,600. (58mph) I was pretty certain that it was a torque convertor issue. Since my daily driving is all city driving, I’ve been locking it in 3 since I rarely go over 45mph. Here’s what has me puzzled. Just recently, when I’ve popped it into D by accident, the vibration has now become a buzzing. It used to only be in OD while the RPM range was between 1,300 and 1,600. Now it is doing it when it’s locked in 3 between 1,200 and 1,500 rpm, but not always. I’m even feeling it a little bit in 2nd when I’m doing 20 mph. To me, this is ruling out a torque convertor shudder. I first checked the fluid and it was in the normal range, but at the bottom. Added a hair and she’s perfectly topped off.
Could the motor mounts/trans mounts be an issue? U-joints? Any suggestions on where to start? I’m pretty mechanically inclined, but have never messed with transmission issues.
I’ve owned it for about 8 months now. Below is everything I’ve personally done since I picked her up.
All new fluids
New tires
New brakes
Wheel bearing
Alternator
Spark plugs
Ignition coil in #3
Camshaft position sensor
Variable timing actuator solenoid
New rear sway bar
Blow motor resistor
I first had an issue with lost power and rough idle. Ran it for a few hundred miles before she threw a P0300 and a P0014. I found the coil in #3 was shot and the VVT actuator was bad. Replaced both, and she was happy again. Shortly after that we hit some brutally cold temps here in Chicago and the rough idle came back. This time it was only when the engine was cold and only when in gear. Once you put it in “P” or “N” or the engine warmed up, the motor idles smooth as glass. I chalked it up to bad motor mounts and I’m going to replace those in the spring.
Now to my problem that has me puzzled. Right around the same time the motor mount issue popped up, I started getting a very slight vibration in OD while doing 45. It would go away when locking it into 3 or bringing the RPMs up past 1,600. (58mph) I was pretty certain that it was a torque convertor issue. Since my daily driving is all city driving, I’ve been locking it in 3 since I rarely go over 45mph. Here’s what has me puzzled. Just recently, when I’ve popped it into D by accident, the vibration has now become a buzzing. It used to only be in OD while the RPM range was between 1,300 and 1,600. Now it is doing it when it’s locked in 3 between 1,200 and 1,500 rpm, but not always. I’m even feeling it a little bit in 2nd when I’m doing 20 mph. To me, this is ruling out a torque convertor shudder. I first checked the fluid and it was in the normal range, but at the bottom. Added a hair and she’s perfectly topped off.
Could the motor mounts/trans mounts be an issue? U-joints? Any suggestions on where to start? I’m pretty mechanically inclined, but have never messed with transmission issues.