TIME-SERT 101: How to Install Threaded Steel Inserts into the GM Atlas 4.2L LL8 Mains Bolt Holes

[mrrsm]

Pictorial Overview:

TIME-SERT

This Album contains images of the TIME-SERT M10 X 1.50 Installation Kit that includes the SERTS for Repairing M10 X 1.50 Thread Repair or UPGRADE of the GM 4.2L LL8 Engine Crankshaft Cradle Bolt Holes. The "2001: A Space Odyssey Monolith" Block of Heavy Black Steel will be used to Stabilize...

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Part 1 of 3 Parts:

Abstract:

This is a Repair Guide for using a Modified Technique vs. the Classic“The TIME-SERT Method” to more precisely install (14) M10 X 1.50 X 40MM Threaded Steel Cylinders inside all of the Crank-Shaft Mains Cap Screw Fastener Holes inside of the GM Atlas 4.2L LL8 Aluminum Engine Block:



Image Information: This is what the Properly Set Up Aluminum Guide Plate should look like EACH AND EVERY TIME you Prepare to Drill Down into the Engine Block Mains to remove the Old Thread Lines in preparation for later using the TIME-SERT EXTRA LONG SI TAP, EXTRA LONG INSERT TOOL AND THE (14) M10 X 1.50 X 40MM INSERTS WITH RED THREAD LOCKER ON THE OUTER THREADS AND TIME-SERT OIL ON THE INSERT EXTRA-LONG INSERT HOLDER TOOL.

Take Note of the need to use an Accurate Machinist's Accurate 90 Degree Angle Square Gauge to ensure that the 12" X 13/32" Cobalt Drill is aligned to be as STRAIGHT AND TRUE as possible (at the N-E-W-S Positions ) Prior to Drilling Down in VERY Small Increments and with FREQUENT Bolt Hole Clean Outs using Canned Air and Re-Applying Cutting Oil or TRUE-TAP LUBRICANT.




This Article covers the procedures for repairing damaged Crankshaft Main Caps Threaded Bolt Holes in their Engines in the GM 4, 5 & 6 Cylinder Atlas - Vortec Aluminum Engine Blocks.

Block Preparation of the Work Area adjacent to the Crankshaft Mains Bolts Holes:



All Bock Prep Imagery can be seen HERE:

GM ATLAS 4.2L LL8 BLOCK CLEANING via ACDelco TEC

These Images show the Before and After efforts of De-Glazing the GM 4.2L Engine Block of all Gas Gum Varnish and Carbon Build up on a 2004 Vintage Engine with around 160,000 Miles of Wear & Tear. I used (5) cans of ACDelco Top Engine Cleaner OUTDOORS with a Chemical Gas Mask, Nitrile Gloves...

www.flickr.com

The All Aluminum Atlas Vortec 4200 LL8 Engine Block ‘rectangular box’ design affords the opportunity of having much free and open access once disassembled and is fairly easy to work on once the Engine gets stripped down and the motor has been scrupulously Cleaned, De-Greased and De-Carbonized. For this work to become worthwhile, before proceeding, the Engine Block MUST also be examined thoroughly for any Cracks in the Block and Mains Webbing Buttresses can be discovered.

Doing this clean up work will prevent investing time, energy and money on a “Fool’s Errand”. Having a Clean Block also reduces the chances of contaminating the pending TIME-SERT repair work areas and avoid the problem of NOT achieving the desired results. Working in this area of any Motor is NOT a Trivial Matter as “Good Surgeons Do NOT perform Operations under Septic Conditions” ...and neither should Good Mechanics during Engine Re-Building.

Cover and Isolate ALL non-involved areas within and without these procedures using a combination of Blue Painter’s Tape and sections of Clear Saran Wrap. By taking these precautions, working on Only One Specific Bolt Hole at a Time will allow it to receive the concentrated attentions and efforts to do everything correctly. This thoughtful approach will minimize the chances of Cross-Contaminating other areas inside of the Engine with Metal Dross, Sprue, Shards, Oily Chips or Debris that can get blown around with “Canned Air” and drop down inside of the myriad holes, nooks and crannies inside of the engine, only to wreak havoc later on:



The Saran Wrap has a nice “clingy” nature to it so that gathering up sections laden with these contaminants becomes a a simple process: Just Unseal the Tape and work from the Outer Edges by rolling up the Debris inwards, thereby trapping the various particles and shards within for easy disposal. Re-Apply more protective layers of the Saran Wrap and Blue Painter’s Tape as needed.

Best Mechanical Practices and Specialty Tool Requirements:

Start a Repair Journal and Document EVERYTHING You will Need to Remember and Follow as Orders of Operations all along the way.The Mechanic should acquire ALL of the Specialty Tools and Necessary Materials well in advance of beginning the work.

The important things to remember is that you will be trying to perfect this repair ONE BOLT HOLE AT A TIME... the Goal is to be able to carefully Accurately Repeat Each Procedure over and over for ALL (14) Bolt Holes following on with the same consistency and perfection of technique from Start to Finish.

You Do NOT have to BE a Machinist to respect the many ways and means most Machinists follow when performing their work in the narrow context here of using this Modified TIME-SERT System:



Download and Repeatedly Study and Review the various TIME-SERT Factory Instructional PDF(s). Also, Download, SAVE and WATCH all of the TIME-SERT “How To” Videos available on YouTube. Use these handy sources of information to prepare and educate yourself well in advance of doing ANYTHING to that Aluminum Engine Block. THIS IS THE KEY TO YOUR SUCCESSFUL REPAIR!

Identify ALL of the Specialty Tools covered within this Article and carefully search for them at the Best Possible Prices and Offers on eBay and Amazon. In many cases… YOU WILL have to Open Your Wallet and pay dearly for some of these Tools. However, I am including some ideas here that will help you to SAVE MONEY by “Mixing and Matching” Tools from Different, VERY ‘Pricey’ Kits.

You will appreciate being able to obtain either seldom-used Tools or Partial Kits individually from AND by choosing Alternative Tools that WILL offer you the same results ...but NOT at the ridiculously over-priced costs of Buying Complete Kits. Nothing worth doing is ever easy… so if you really want to do this work… you WILL have to invest much time and effort to gather the Right Tools for this Job.

Obtain additional sacrificial materials and a few extra GM OEM TTY Fasteners along with some ALUMINUM BLOCKS to practice with the machining and re-work via the Drilling and Tapping Tools. Then perform the TIME-SERT Insert Installation and TTY Bolt Tightening Procedures.

Follow the GM Factory Installation Guidelines and OEM Service Manual here at GMT Nation well on your Test Materials well in advance of doing the actual work on and inside of your Engine. YOU are completely responsible for the success or failure as the possible outcomes to this time, effort and expense. So it will be well worth your time to know Why, When, What and How to Use these necessary “Destroy...Then… Create” Machining and Metal Working Procedures so you can learn and understand that they CAN safely be done to benefit your particular Motor… FOR REAL.

More to Follow...

 

[mrrsm]

Part 2 of 3 Parts:

The Tools Required for the TIME-SERT R&R of the Crankshaft Mains Bolt Holes:



“YOU CAN’T GET ...THERE… FROM ...HERE…!!!”

This Album contains 379 TIME-SERT MAINS PROJECT Images as well as earlier work performed in parallel support to this Mains Threaded Bolt Hole Repair:

TIME-SERT

This Album contains images of the TIME-SERT M10 X 1.50 Installation Kit that includes the SERTS for Repairing M10 X 1.50 Thread Repair or UPGRADE of the GM 4.2L LL8 Engine Crankshaft Cradle Bolt Holes. The "2001: A Space Odyssey Monolith" Block of Heavy Black Steel will be used to Stabilize...

www.flickr.com

Before you can perform these follow on necessary steps for this TIME-SERT R&R, First, you will have to either use a Hook Pick to try and Unwind the Broken Bolt Remainders or use a Drill & EZ-OUT to remove the rest of the Snapped Off TTY Fasteners.

From there, you'll also need to figure out “How to Remove the Mains Hollow Dowel Pins” without destroying either THEM… OR render any damage the Soft Aluminum Mains Metal Buttresses they reside inside of when removing them:



210 Images of the Dowel Pins and Inner Mains area of the GM 4.2L LL8 Engine can be seen HERE:

GM 4.2L CRANKSHAFT DOWEL PINS R&R

These Images cover How to R&R The Hollow, Crankshaft Dowel Pins in the 2004 GM LL8 4.2L Engine using a cut down 10.9 Bolt Shank along with the CAL-VAN Metric Dowel Pin Removal Tool Kit.

www.flickr.com

To remove the Broken Bolt Shanks, if you cannot locate the above listed OTC EN-47702-1 Drill Guide Tool, you may need to create something yourself in order get some additional support fitted inside of the approximately 15mm ID X 12mm deep smooth holes for both Mains Cap Bolt Holes that contain the (14) Beveled, Hollow Steel Guide Pin Cylinders.

If the Bolt(s) have broken off below the level of the Hollow Guide Pin, the Best Method to ensure a rapid removal of any Broken Off Studs is to find a PT (Partial Thread) Hex Bolt that fits uniformly TIGHT inside of the Guide Pin space. Then after aligning that Bolt in a Drill Press, drill down through the center of the Bolt Head with a 3/16” HSS (High Speed Steel) Drill Bit.

Finish this Home made Tool by cutting off the Bolt Head with enough length of the smooth shank to fit snugly inside of the Hollow Guide Pin. If needs be... use a Pair of Pliers or a Small set of Vise-Grips to hold that Guide Bolt steady as you begin to Drill down into the M10 X 1.50 Shank of the Broken TTY Bolt remainder(s).

Be sure to Drip or Spray some Cutting Oil into that 3/16” Bolt Head Drill Guide Center Hole. Then insert the same size 3/16" Drill Bit and carefully drill down into the Broken Bolt ...just a little bit at a time.

Make sure to STOP frequently and Remove the Drill Bit and the Bolt Guide and thoroughly CLEAN OUT and remove the Broken-Off Bolt Cuttings, otherwise, this Junk will quickly get jammed in between that small space and potentially damage the Aluminum Block Mains Bolt Holes within.

Once you have drilled in about 5-7mm… remove the Drill Bit, Clean UP the hole again and the nearby area with “Canned” Air. Then insert a Small Fluted Carbide EZ-OUT held firmly in a proper Tap Handle. Next, screw down and into the Broken Bolt using moderate Counter-Clockwise force until the EZ-OUT Grabs the Broken Bolt and begins to unwind it out of the Mains Bolt Hole(s) and immediately follow the same, thorough Clean Out Procedures.

Afterwards, use a Strong Telescoping Neodymium Magnet to gather as much of the Ferrous Tailings as possible. Once completed, carefully roll up all of the cuttings up inside the Protective Saran Wrap, starting at the Outer Edges and rolling inwards so that none of the Ferrous metal "Sharps" accidentally drop down inside of the Main Bearing Oiling Holes. Finally, run a Strong Telescoping Magnet over EVERYTHING and collect every last bit of residual Steel Grit:



(1) CalVan SAE Dowel Pin Puller Set Part # 95200:

By Trial & Error, I found out that there are ONLY Two Stud Removal Tool Kits that should EVER be considered for this work. Both are Very Expensive (Especially the Snap-On Stud Remover Kit Part # G-500) and yet they are MUST-HAVE TOOLS in order to move forwards with this Project. TRUST ME… These simple, Hollow Beveled Steel Tubes Do NOT Grow On Trees!



And so, to do your utmost and prevent damaging them during (14) consecutive R&Rs ... THIS IS THE STUD REMOVAL KIT THAT YOU WANT! (Use the sae1/2” Colette OVER the Outer Diameter of the Beveled Steel Hollow Dowel Guide Pins along with a tight fitting Cut-Off Insert Bolt tucked inside of the Hollow Dowels for this CalVan Tool arrangement to work properly.)



https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0066PI4H4/?tag=gmtnation-20

More to Follow...

 

[mrrsm]

Part 3 of 3:

The Tools Required for the TIME-SERT R&R of the Crankshaft Mains Bolt Holes… Cont.

The CalVan Youtube Videos do a superb job of showing what the Kits look like… and How to Use Them. It is paramount that you find a 10.9 BOLT with a SMOOTH SHANK that can be tightly inserted inside of the Hollow Dowel Pins to strengthen them and avoid COLLAPSING and CRUSHING them when using these Tools.

DO NOT FREELANCE WITH CHANNEL LOCKS AND VICE-GRIPS to try and extract these Hollow Steel Dowel Pins unless you want to Kiss Your Engine GOOD-BYE and wind up with a 90 Pound Aluminum Paper Weight from the Damage that will certainly occur:



TIME-SERT GM NorthStar Engine Mains M10 X 1.5 X 20mm Bolt Hole Repair Tool Kit (Part 1 of 2 Sub-Kits):



Why use some of the components here out of a NorthStar 3.6L TIME-SERT Mains Bolt Hole Repair Kit? Because sadly… There is NO Designated Crankshaft Mains Bolt Holes Repair Kit for the GM Atlas In-Line 4,5 and 6 Cylinder Engines! However… the NorthStar Kit WILL get you PART WAY (about 20MM below the Edge of the Insert Rim).

The Dual Diameter (SI Type) TIME-SERT Drill Bit will only Prep the Inner-Upper Shoulder of the submerged Mains Bolt Holes to accept the Square Shoulder of all the New TIME-SERT M10 X 1.5 X 40 mm Inserts and will only Clear away the OEM Threads in the OD dimensions of 10.7mm down to a depth of 20mm from the edge of the Insert Shoulder.

However… the ACTUAL Depth of Drilling needs to extend further downwards for another 20-25mm to reach almost to the very bottom of each Blind Hole ...and go no further, lest the nose of the Drill Bit Strike the Bottom of the Blind Hole.

And that is where using the 12" X 13/32" Cobalt Drill in conjunction with the 1/2" X 6" X 12" Aluminum Guide Plate and a Single GM OEM TTY Bolt fitted with a 13/32" Steel Stop Collar that passes through the Larger Hole drilled through the Aluminum Guide Plate and gets fastened down VERY GENTLY after beung Hand Threaded into the opposing M10 X 1.5 Mains Bolt Hole.

This Odd Combination of Set Up Tools will carry you through the necessary Drilling and Tapping required to reach VERY DEEP into the Blind Holes that all need to thoroughly grip and restraining the (14) Crankshaft Mains Cap Screws (TTY Bolts) to contain the Power of The Rotating Assembly.

Bosch Part# CO2153 13/32” X 6” Cobalt Steel Drill Bit:



This is One of Two possible Drill Bits that can be used to finish drilling down inside of the Mains Bolts Holes and removing all of the remaining OEM Aluminum Thread lines completely. You CANNOT Use the Aluminum Guide Plate with the Bosch 6" Drill Bit. And so, much care and Proper Depth Measurements MUST be made when using a Hand Drill and just this Bosch Cobalt Drill Bit to go deeper into the Block Bolt Holes and you MUST include using a 13/32” Drill Stop held in place with Dual Hex Key Locks on the Upper Smooth Portion of the shank of this Bosch Drill Bit.

This is THE Alternative ‘Mains Bolt Holes Drilling Procedure’ that uses an Extended Length Cobalt Steel Drill AND A Home-Made Aluminum Drill Guide Plate:

The Tool of Choice here is The Cobalt Steel 13/32” X 12” Drill Bit:



I am a serious stickler for trying to emulate Proper Machining Techniques as closely as possible; especially in situations like these where getting CONSISTENCY in the Performances of the Tools, Techniques to achieve GOOD RESULTS is Paramount. The approach I’ve laid out here may seem like ‘Over-Kill’ in achieving these goals.

So my Mechanical Instincts have thus inclined me to Imagine and Create a 13/32” Bronze Drill Guide as well that could also be threaded into the Second Aluminum Plate as a Drill Guide. This piece of Aluminum also measures in at 12” X 6” X 1/2”. This Bronze Drill Guide portion gets made by Drilling, Tapping and then Installing a 3/4”-10 Bronze Bolt locating through the Aluminum Plate to act as a “Bushing” sort of Drill Bit Guide and also convenient Plate Position Locator when the 12" Cobalt Drill Bit is slid down inside of it.

Using a Large Bronze Bolt as a Drill Guide:



The Bronze Bolt then needs to be Center-Bored using the Bosch 13/32” x 6” Drill Bit after first getting the 3/4”-10 hole needed situated using an ‘Off-Center-Near-Edge’ positioning of this Bronze Drill Guide Port. The off-set placement of the Locator Bushing will allow you the chance to work on all (7) of the Mains TTY Bolt Holes that run down down one side of the inner Engine Block at time.

Then by simply flat-spin rotate the Aluminum Plate 180 Degrees, it will accommodate the (7) Mains Bolt Holes along the opposite side of the Engine Bottom End. Use one of your Steel Main Caps to first locate where you want to position the Large, Bronze Bolt Hex Head once it is finally threaded in flush and tight against the upper plate surface.

The reason for choosing a “Bronze Bolt” in this application is that Bronze is very “Greasy” (which means you can make Amazing Bushings from TRUE Bronze that can almost last forever) allowing the close tolerance of the 13/32” X 12” Cobalt Drill Bit to turn smoothly and still be held in the correct Right Angle Position to the Aluminum Plate without overheating or binding.

Prior to that action… its mobility of being slid around on the flat, even bottom of the Engine Block to Crankcase Flange will let you be able to ‘wiggle’ that 12” long Cobalt Steel Drill from high above, over and into One Mains Bolt Hole Position at a time.

Aluminum Drill Guide Support Plate 12” L X 6” W X 1/2” H:



Once the Plate is laid atop the inverted Atlas Engine Block and aligned on the “X & Y”- Axis over a Single Bolt Hole, it can be fixed in place temporarily by using Two Pairs of Irwin (The Originals) 4” Deep-Reach Vise-Grip Pliers all along the edges of the Crankcase cast-in Flanges around the Lower Outer Sides of the Engine Block.

It follows that the Vice-Grips will be squeezing down with Light Pressure upon the outer 2” perimeter edges of the Aluminum Guide Plate, providing for a solid, adjustable “Z”- Axis positioning of the 13/32” X 12” Cobalt Drill Bit. All of these dedicated efforts will in fact restrict the chances for the Long Drill Bit to accidentally ‘walk off’ of its Drilling Center-Line and bore into the sides of the (14) Mains Bolt Holes causing irreversible collateral damage to the Engine Block.

Still More to Follow Tomorrow...

 

[mrrsm]

To continue on with more information regarding the TIME-SERT Tools and variations in the SERT designs:

The Most Important Question regarding the necessity of performing this repair is:

WHY...? Why do any of this AT ALL?

If you have more than a passing interest in the GM 4,2L Engine and have been curious enough to read the White Paper concerning the problem involving the EXTREME increase in Engine Vibrations above 6,000 RPM... HEREIN lies the Answer:

If you have it mind that you’d like to try and Turbo-Charge the Vortec 4200 LL8 Engine… You MUST consider “Beefing Up” the Bottom End within the narrow list of things that might help:

(1) Blue Print the Motor and perform a precise job of Component Balancing.

(2) Perform an upgrade in the Engine Buttresses of the approximately 50mm Deep Mains Blind Holes.

(3) Upgrade the Harmonic Balancer to an After-Market version from the BHJ Company as per this Video:

NOTE: If anyone can locate the actual BHJ GM LL8 White Paper in PDF Format covered in the Video above… Please feel Free to Link that information in this Article.

This Site is worth the time to read about a way to approach these problems:

https://www.theturboforums.com/threads/vortec-4200-l6-turbo-build.372350/

If you’re interested in sourcing High Performance Parts for your LL8 Performance Build, this site has numerous Links available:

https://www.inliners.org/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=94795

Getting Back On Topic for The Article…

In trying to tackle the issue of stabilizing the Bottom End of this In Line Six Cylinder Engine, it is important to know “From Cradle to Base” what the Stack of components are that fit under the Flanges of those M10X1.50X133mm Mains Bolts:

(1) The Engine Cradle
(2) The Main Caps
(3) Aligned using (14) Precise OD Steel Hollow Dowel Pins
(4) The M10 X 1.50 X 50mm Thread-Line penetrating into the Block and ending in a Blind Hole Compartments.

If you slip a Mains Bolt THROUGH the Cradle and Mains Cap…you will observe that after passing through the Hollow Guide Pin Space (un-threaded) and making contact with the Threads tafter entering that space… ONLY ABOUT 20-22mm of The Threaded Bolt actually threads down into the Aluminum Block. THIS is less than HALF of the distance to the bottom of the Blind Holes thread lines down into those Buttresses.

So WTF? How in the Hell can THIS situation be IMPROVED ???

The Most Direct Method to INCREASE the Strength of the Bolt Holding Force would be to allow for LONGER Steel Inserts to be Threaded DEEP into the Aluminum Buttresses.

After That… even if the Mains Bolts only penetrate down to about 20-22mm… The 40mm LONG TIME-SERT Steel Cylinder WILL allow for the remaining structure to maintain its hold ON THE BOLT THREADS for all of the remaining portion of the Steel Cylinder that is Threaded MUCH Deeper below the end of the Bolt.

I know...it sounds Crazy… But THINK about it… LOOK at what the Alternative is: If the Aluminum Threaded Holes within the Mains are only in contact with the 20-22mm of the Threaded Aluminum… The remaining Length of those Threads in the Aluminum Block that continue to the bottom of the Blind Hole will offer NO assistance with Getting a Better GRIP.

Unlike a Heli-Coil that consists only of a Coil of Steel Wire… the TIME-SERT Cylinder Shaped Inserts are constructed of One, Solid Piece of Externally and Internally Threaded STEEL.

Those Cylinders are MUCH Stronger that ANY Plain Aluminum Thread lines could ever be… and the fact that they have MUCH Larger SI (Screw Insert) Thread Lines of their OUTSIDE DIAMETER … means that they dramatically increase the amount of Thread Holding Resistance that is present once they are properly installed... right on down to the very bottom of their FULL Length of 40mm. All of these things make for a MUCH better means of holding the Crankshaft AND the connected Rotating Assembly ...Firm and Solid inside of the Engine Block.

The attached images show the various types of TIME-SERT Tools and the variations possible with using Different TIME-SERT Tools from Different Kits to tackle complicated installations like the one presented with performing a SERT Upgrade in each of the (14) Mains Bolt Holes.

Please Take NOTE of the Special Insert Driver Tool as being absolutely indispensable in working the 40mm Long TIME-SERTS completely down inside of the Mains Buttresses. The Regular 20mm Tool for this Purpose will NOT work. This Specialty 40mm Tool was only around $30.00.



The last images shown below are of the Drill Out Hole arrangements for mounting the Aluminum Mains Drill Guide Plate on the bottom of the LL8 Engine Block. Note that there are up to (5) Places available to secure the Plate in a secure position and achieve a correct Right Angle 90 Degree Square alignment of the 13/32” Aircraft 12” Long Cobalt Drill Bit.



In addition to using up to (4) Vice-Grip Padded Clamps on the outer perimeter of the 12” X 6” X ½” Aluminum Plate… The Mains Bolt Hole in the OPPOSITE position to the one being drilled out will be able to have a Mains Bolt fitted inside of a 13/32” Drill Stop threaded down and held in place with NO MORE THAT 11 FOOT POUNDS of Force. These careful alignment and securing procedures will ensure that the Cobalt Drill does not “Wander” off course and damage the Aluminum Mains inside the Engine Block:



Very soon, I'll have a few more suggestions on the Best Ways to perform the "Finer Aspects" of Drilling Out, Tapping and Installing each TIME-SERT" and will include these ideas in a Follow On Post:

More to Follow...

 

[mrrsm]

Even If you are just generally dis-assembling your GM 4.2L LL8 Engine "Bottom End" to perform a Complete Motor Overhaul with NO intention of improving the Engine Block using the aforementioned M10 X 1.5 X 40mm Time-Sert Inserts Techniques:

Please.... DO NOT DO WHAT IS BEING SHOWN IN THIS YT VIDEO!

Pay Special Attention to what the VOP says about...

"Fortunately, THIS is Just a Scrap Engine that I Bought for PARTS..."

Well THAT"S Great, Bro... But What if the Owner-Engine Builder Really NEEDS their OEM Engine Block for their Motor Re-Build Project?!!!

After making several Failed Attempts at unbolting the Crankshaft Mains Fasteners and having them SNAP OFF... The VOP (Video Original Poster) resorts to using a Three Pound Steel Sledge Hammer to POUND HELL OUT OF THE FLANGED CAP-SCREW BOLT HEADS:

Now... While it may appear that he has succeeded in unwinding some of these Crank Bolts using this Extreme Technique... be advised that in order to loosen the grip between the Thread Lines of the Aluminum Block...and the Over-Stretched Thread Lines of the Grade 8 Torque To Yield Bolts... A RIDICULOUS AMOUNT OF FORCE MUST BE IMPARTED INTO THE THREADED PORTIONS OF THE LL8 WAIST FOAM ENGINE BLOCK TO ALLOW FOR THIS RELEASE TO HAPPEN.

Dude... IT"S ALUMINUM.... NOT ADAMANTIUM...!!!

Just know that once any of those Bolts SNAP OFF inside the Engine Block...they WILL respond to performing Broken Bolt Shank Removals as well documented in Post #2 of this Thread... because there will be NO LOAD left upon the remaining Broken Bolt Shanks!

Think about it... One should NEVER Swing a Hammer with this much Force upon Fasteners that are impacted inside of a Cast Iron Block, let alone One Made of Soft, Cast Aluminum!

The VOP (Mr. Flip-Flops...?) stated that "The ONLY Thing I want to get out of this Motor ...is The Crankshaft..." So WHY did he even bother with explaining THIS Crazy Idea when it would have been so much easier for him to JUST ALLOW THEM ALL TO SNAP RIGHT OFF ABOVE THE CRANKSHAFT CRADLE... and be done with it?


"Don't Do THAT... Violence and Technology? NOT GOOD BEDFELLOWS!"
Eddie The Field Support & Tech Guy in Jurassic Park "The Lost World"

 

[Mooseman]

Odd that he had so many broken mains bolts. Maybe because it lacked lubrication? Looks pretty dry. I Do Cars had no problem removing them from from an I5 variant (video cued to relevant part):

 

[mrrsm]

This Technical Explanation in reply to @Mooseman 's inquiry is meant more for the curious or the uninformed about this topic:

The problem with TTY Bolts is that the relationships of the Thread Lines as "Inclined Planes" can change in the screw pattern after they get become S.T.R.E.T.C.H.E.D and then Jam their Bolt Flanks up against each other, getting wedged up inside of their mirror Aluminum Engine Block counterparts:

As one of only (6) Simple Machines... a Screw Thread Design really is a lot more involved than we might imagine and what happens when all of these complex angles and shapes Do NOT interface well will alter their behavior at the instant that they DO NOT PERFECTLY MATCH:



In the case of TTY Stretch Bolts, any effort to unwind them against that 'Rubber Band Like Tension' necessary to make them work will also increase by friction OF JAMMED UP FLANKS.

Weakened by all the prior atomic crystallization of the TTY Bolt Shanks Stretching on their way in, those Bolts will exude a very different, non-plastic reaction to being unwound... and they WILL Fracture with MUCH Less Force applied coming out than was used to thread them into the Aluminum Engine Block.

So even if one manages to unwind any TTY Fasteners of any kind... they should NEVER be used again for these and a few other reasons.

Using Additional Lubrication on TTY Bolts can make matters WORSE by changing the resistance characteristics expected to occur in between those interfacing Bolt to Block Flanks and reduce the expected Torque and TTY behavior! Over-Lubricated TTY Bolts are MORE Likely to SNAP OFF prematurely as a result:

 

[mrrsm]

As a sub-topic well described in Post #3 ...Taking some time to visit eBay and searching around for ANYTHING offered on sale for a 'Modest Amount Of Moolah' in the form of Partial Time-Sert Kit Components will be time well spent.

If items like the ones shown in the attached images below show up in any "Cheap, Used Combo Kits"... Grab anything you can find in M4, M5, M6, M8, M10, M11 or M12. You never know when you might have to perform Full Thread Line Repairs in ANY of these Metric Sizes.

The images below display just a few of "The Buys" that were there for almost next to nothing. I mention this issue again because the trend at hand for the pricing on these Bolt Hole Replacement Kits has become absurdly expensive.

If you are clever and know how to mix and match certain elements of these Kits for Engine Block Hole Prep, then you might come out ahead in the end and avoid "Wallet Rape".

Above all... Make certain to maintain the correct Metric Bolt Hole Dimensions and TPI (Threads Per Inch) necessary while doing any Training or "Experimenting"

ALWAYS Practice with EVERYTHING you manage to buy on some Scrap Aluminum Plates or Coupons in order to ensure that your Tools and these Methods with New Sert Inserts WILL succeed..

In the case if the Kent-Moore Time-Sert Full Kit of Medium Depth and Deep Tap Extensions... these are meant to extend the length of the Time-Sert STI (Screw Thread Insert) Taps with PRECISION Extensions that won't wobble around or get stuck down inside of limited access areas on Engine Heads and Blocks with deeply seated Bolts: