that last #$%& transmission pan bolt

[6716]

the one in the corner that's sort of tight behind the bracket.

I can't get that thing to go back in straight, with that bracket in the way the socket is crooked and my fingers don't fit.

It'll catch cross-threaded, but I just can't seem to get it to go straight.

Anybody ever figure out a trick on that one?

What am I missing there?

 

[tmm217]

I started mine with my fingers but thats out for you huh? Maybe tape bolt to a long extension and start that way. Good luck just take your time. I sometimes use another bolt if the one im trying to start wont start.

 

[triz]

How about using a wobble extension? Or a swivel? Will that work?

 

[STLtrailbSS]

I have never did anything with the trans on a i6. I agree with a wobble or drop the bolt in a box end wrench and try to line it up and get a good turn to start the thread.

 

[meerschm]

need to get it started by hand.

if the bracket is in the way, loosen the bracket.

the transmission case is pretty soft, and it is way too easy to cross thread using any kind of tool to start.

 

[gmcman]

I always loosen the two 13MM bolts on the bracket on the side of the case so the pan has some wiggle room. Loosen the bolts and swap another bolt, could be the gasket pushing the bolt sideways, maybe use an X-acto blade and trim the gasket around the bolt hole.

 

[6716]

I hate to admit it but I got frustrated and just tightened it up cross threaded.

I didn't have the guts to loosen the bracket because I didn't know what the line the bracket holds does ... or is adjusted ... or what.

I didn't see the idea about cutting back a little of the gasket before I went ahead and did it, and that might have helped a bit.

Tried hand-tightening, tried the wobble socket and a box end and an open end. Nothing. Tried needle nose pliers and channel locks. I had to get it back up on the road, and I was working on leaking transmission cooler lines at the same time, and those weren't done, and I was starting to run out of time.

It was the first and only ever pan drop and filter change at 205K miles, so will I ever see another? I'm shooting for 300K on the vehicle.

It bugs me though. Don't like it at all.

But there you have it.

 

[meerschm]

I did the same thing

having it started cross threaded and half a turn or so, just kept giving it some torque till it tightened the washer snug.

so far so good, but I agree not the best way to do things.

 

[meerschm]

if it really bugs you you could drop the pan, and put a helicoil in.

first you would have to move that bracket to get a straight shot to drill out the hole and tap it for the helicoil.

gmparts east shows the bolt to be (M5.8)

I am not that worried.