Hello, I have an 06 Trailblazer LS that has had a speaker feedback noise for awhile now. I have a sub, 6 aftermarket speakers, an aftermarket Head unit and a 270amp high output alt and the big 3 upgrade. I have cleaned off every ground, grounded my stereo to the same ground as my amps, used multiple wire, multiple amps, multiple batteries multiple stereos and multiple speakers. I am really stuck here and not sure what to do. If you know anything about car audio i have knukonceptz wire and rcas(top of the line). The only thing i can think it might be that i have not tried yet is swapping back to my old alternator. Please let me know if you have any ideas i would really appreciate it! Here are some pictures of my sort of situation and equipment. Thanks for reading!
NEED HELP Speaker Feedback/Ground issue?
- Thread starter benjaminblazer
- Start date
Check that your Hood Bonding Strap is in Good Order (NOT Corroded, Parted or Snapped off of the Firewall to Under-Hood Fasteners).
Ambient RF can get picked up and amplified near adjacent Antennae and cause *crackling* and Whining and RF Interference can thus emanate from the Speakers.
The same applies for ensuring ALL Powers and Grounds on the Radio Hardware and any Amplifiers are likewise correctly installed with recommended Shielding and Equipment Orientation placed as required.
Ambient RF can get picked up and amplified near adjacent Antennae and cause *crackling* and Whining and RF Interference can thus emanate from the Speakers.
The same applies for ensuring ALL Powers and Grounds on the Radio Hardware and any Amplifiers are likewise correctly installed with recommended Shielding and Equipment Orientation placed as required.
Not sure if this is terrible corroded but should i just run a new wire?
Attachments
You can try a "short test" by running with the alternator disconnected and see if that changes the "noise generation".
Excellent Images... And as you can see from the close-cropped focused versions of them adapted for this explanation...They ARE the Very Best (...as in The Very Worst...) of Examples of what happens when Galvanic Corrosion sets up in between Dissimilar Metals that can occur in the presence of a Salt Brine - Wet Environment. Over time...ALL Exposed Braided Copper will generate Copper Oxide from Pure Braided Copper and become DIELECTRIC AS THE RESULT:
The Green Colored Copper Wire ends prove that a good portion of that Green Infestation has invaded the length of the Ground Strap and this diminishes its ability to neutralize accumulated static or other incidental electrical energy. The OEM versions of these Bonding Straps should still be available at:
www.gmpartsdirect.com
If Not.., Carefully remove their Contact Fasteners, Measure the Straps for Length and Eyelet Size and seek to purchase suitable replacements on Amazon.com. Clean the Affected Areas up with a Paste-Mixture of Water and Arm & Hammer Baking Soda. Then... Burnish the Contact surfaces to a Bright Shine and coat the intermediate surfaces of the New Bonding Strap Ends and Fasteners with a Dollop of Dielectric Grease to eliminate the return of this problem.
While this may not completely eliminate the *Crackling* issue...it will go a long way to reducing the RF Energy from Static Electrical discharge that ALWAYS produces Random Radio Waves as the Result (Like the Sound created when there is a Lightning Strike nearby and your Speakers respond by the *Crackle* Sound due to this RF Interference). An Un-Bonded Car or Truck Hood with a Poor Ground can act just like the Arecibo Antennae used to in Puerto Rico and collect and amplify random RF Energy from Space.
en.wikipedia.org
en.wikipedia.org
The Green Colored Copper Wire ends prove that a good portion of that Green Infestation has invaded the length of the Ground Strap and this diminishes its ability to neutralize accumulated static or other incidental electrical energy. The OEM versions of these Bonding Straps should still be available at:
Shop Genuine OEM GM Parts Online | GMPartsDirect.com
Shop for quality GM parts for your GMC, Chevy, Cadillac, Buick, or other GM vehicle at GM Parts Direct, your trusted auto parts source
www.gmpartsdirect.com
If Not.., Carefully remove their Contact Fasteners, Measure the Straps for Length and Eyelet Size and seek to purchase suitable replacements on Amazon.com. Clean the Affected Areas up with a Paste-Mixture of Water and Arm & Hammer Baking Soda. Then... Burnish the Contact surfaces to a Bright Shine and coat the intermediate surfaces of the New Bonding Strap Ends and Fasteners with a Dollop of Dielectric Grease to eliminate the return of this problem.
While this may not completely eliminate the *Crackling* issue...it will go a long way to reducing the RF Energy from Static Electrical discharge that ALWAYS produces Random Radio Waves as the Result (Like the Sound created when there is a Lightning Strike nearby and your Speakers respond by the *Crackle* Sound due to this RF Interference). An Un-Bonded Car or Truck Hood with a Poor Ground can act just like the Arecibo Antennae used to in Puerto Rico and collect and amplify random RF Energy from Space.
Galvanic corrosion - Wikipedia
Dielectric - Wikipedia
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One thing i was able to test was hearing the noise while the car was in accessory mode, not with the alternator running, unless it runs in accessory mode?
There IS another Electrical Phenomena that can raise its Ugly Head when Installing After-Market Electronics: GROUND LOOPS ...as explained below:
www.digikey.com
Ground Loops: What They Are and How To Avoid Them
Learn how to combat ground loop interference and enhance signal integrity in your electronic designs. Enhance your circuit designs and minimize interference!
www.digikey.com
OK... it is less likely that it is alternator problem although that does not totally rule that out as it is still "attached" to the circuits.
One other question: do you have some sort of "bypass module" for the system alerts because you have replaced the stock radio? Is any onstar system connected?
i’m pretty sure it ties in part of the stereo to the vehicle but i could be wrong. I’ll try this!
So the on star module connects from the harness to the stereo running a constant 12v through both so when i unplug the module it obv shuts off the stereo itself. Only other solution i think for this would be to just run the wire straight from the harness to the stereo.
To do this test would i just keep the car in accessory mode or start it with the alternator just unplugged?
Looking into trying this, can’t really find the part on Gm genuine but i could be searching for the wrong thing. However if i was to get it on amazon is there a specific thing i should search up or is this literally just a ground wire?Excellent Images... And as you can see from the close-cropped focused versions of them adapted for this explanation...They ARE the Very Best (...as in The Very Worst...) of Examples of what happens when Galvanic Corrosion sets up in between Dissimilar Metals that can occur in the presence of a Salt Brine - Wet Environment. Over time...ALL Exposed Braided Copper will generate Copper Oxide from Pure Braided Copper and become DIELECTRIC AS THE RESULT:
View attachment 114587
View attachment 114586
The Green Colored Copper Wire ends prove that a good portion of that Green Infestation has invaded the length of the Ground Strap and this diminishes its ability to neutralize accumulated static or other incidental electrical energy. The OEM versions of these Bonding Straps should still be available at:
Shop Genuine OEM GM Parts Online | GMPartsDirect.com
Shop for quality GM parts for your GMC, Chevy, Cadillac, Buick, or other GM vehicle at GM Parts Direct, your trusted auto parts source
If Not.., Carefully remove their Contact Fasteners, Measure the Straps for Length and Eyelet Size and seek to purchase suitable replacements on Amazon.com. Clean the Affected Areas up with a Paste-Mixture of Water and Arm & Hammer Baking Soda. Then... Burnish the Contact surfaces to a Bright Shine and coat the intermediate surfaces of the New Bonding Strap Ends and Fasteners with a Dollop of Dielectric Grease to eliminate the return of this problem.
While this may not completely eliminate the *Crackling* issue...it will go a long way to reducing the RF Energy from Static Electrical discharge that ALWAYS produces Random Radio Waves as the Result (Like the Sound created when there is a Lightning Strike nearby and your Speakers respond by the *Crackle* Sound due to this RF Interference). An Un-Bonded Car or Truck Hood with a Poor Ground can act just like the Arecibo Antennae used to in Puerto Rico and collect and amplify random RF Energy from Space.
Galvanic corrosion - Wikipedia
Dielectric - Wikipedia
Not sure if we are talking the same thing... I was referring to the oem onstar module that is in the back seat not any module that came with the headunit / wire harness although I am not familiar with non-oem setups. From my limited experience with speaker noise on my 2008, disconnecting the oem onstar unit at the back seat stopped the noise.
Not too sure what it would look like.I ended up disconnecting the unit and the factory amp in the car and same outcome. However i noticed something with the noise; the noise changes pitch when i go from first
click on ignition, to accessory mode. Does that turn anything different on?
well, it looks like its not "oem onstar" related.
I am not sure that I quite understand about the change from "key in" to "accessory" causing a change... but the accoessory position pulls up the accessory relay which then turns on the radio plus other things.
There are others that know about the "first click" position.... but I guess my question at that point is why is the radio speakers on at that point to make any sound..... I guess there are some "notification" sounds like "lights on, door ajar, etc" that will cause sound. It is likely those are passing thru the "bypass / adapter" module to retain vehicle sounds.
Hopefully, others will have some input.
I am not sure that I quite understand about the change from "key in" to "accessory" causing a change... but the accoessory position pulls up the accessory relay which then turns on the radio plus other things.
There are others that know about the "first click" position.... but I guess my question at that point is why is the radio speakers on at that point to make any sound..... I guess there are some "notification" sounds like "lights on, door ajar, etc" that will cause sound. It is likely those are passing thru the "bypass / adapter" module to retain vehicle sounds.
Hopefully, others will have some input.
