Settings for Initial Front End Alignment After Rebuild?

coh998

Original poster
Member
Mar 24, 2022
28
Edmonton, KY
I've replaced the entire Front Suspension and Steering Rack on an '03 TrailBlazer LT 4WD. I neglected to take any measurements of the Lower Control Arm Bracket positions when I took it apart. I did count threads on the Outer Tie Rods, so I can get them back into the ballpark when I reassemble; close enough for the trip to the alignment shop, anyway. There are a few relatively easy methods detailed online for checking/setting toe-in, so I'm not too worried about that.

But I have no idea where to set or how to measure the Lower Control Arm Brackets, and I can't find a method for setting ballpark castor and camber good enough to get it to the alignment shop. Should I just shoot for the middle of the alignment slots or is there a more surefire way of getting Control Arms located close to where they should be?
 

flyboy2610

Member
Aug 24, 2021
500
Lincoln, Ne.
Last summer I replaced the front suspensions on my '04 TB EXT and the wife's '06 TB. For setting the lower control arms I set the arm into the pocket so that the front end was flush with the face of the pocket, and the back end was inset about 1/16" from the face of the pocket. These are about where the old ones were when removed. Looking at them from the drivers side front would be on the left, the back would be on the right. Passenger side vicey versey. Measure on the lower control arm just inside the bushings.
Side to side adjustment is rather limited due to the way the bolt slots are: >I<. Just line it up so you can get the bolts in, that's about all you can do. You may find that the lower control arm has to be almost at the rear end of the frame pocket.
That will get it close enough to make it to the alignment shop.
Isn't that front upper control arm bolt just lots and lots of fun to get out? :hissyfit:
 
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coh998

Original poster
Member
Mar 24, 2022
28
Edmonton, KY
Isn't that front upper control arm bolt just lots and lots of fun to get out? :hissyfit:
Thanks for the input.

Apparently I was very lucky I didn't break one of those 6 bolts, judging from some of the forum posts about them. I just used a 1/2 breaker bar with a length of hydralic jack handle on the end and gave 'em the old heave ho! I did let them soak in PB Blaster overnight, so I guess that saved me. Some of those bolts were fairly corroded with rust, so I bought 6 new ones. Which reminds me, I have to take a wire brush in a drill motor to those captured nuts before I reassemble. I'm guessing a bit of anti-seize compound wouldn't hurt, either...?
 

flyboy2610

Member
Aug 24, 2021
500
Lincoln, Ne.
As long as the anti-sieze won't allow the bolts to back off it should be OK. Those 6 bolts have the highest torque specs of any bolts on the truck!
 

paul2005tb

Member
Nov 26, 2014
299
Massachusetts
I have a very simple camber level. I can get my camber very close to 0 degrees.
 

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