My belt tensioner/pulley is starting to make the little whine inherent to a failing bearing. Is it better to replace the whole thing? Or just the bearing? Thanks for any input.
Serpentine Tensioner. Replace just the bearing or the whole thing?
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The couple I've bought at the aftermarket stores were cheap enough WITH the pulley. One of them needed the bearing pushed about 1/8" to make it match the OEM positioning, but a light hammer tap on the right size socket used as a pusher took care of that.
They're only $15 or so. I don't recall who makes the ones I slapped in. No need to spend a lot of time on cheap stuff that's trivial to change if it breaks.
FWIW I had a shop install a tensioner pulley on my '00 cherokee, 2 months later it was screaming. i took it out--made in China bearings, I replaced it with a "made in Canada". Not saying everything China makes is crap, but if you have a choice spend $10 more for North American products. Just one of the many things I've replaced since the so called mechanics worked on my vehicles.
Sparky said:I got a new pulley for only 10 bucks or something for mine. The tensioner itself was OK so I saw no need to replace it.
Ended up it wasn't that pulley that was making noise, guess that's what I got for not checking first and just assuming
What did your problem end up being?
meerschm
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- Aug 26, 2012
- 1,079
I just changed the pulley, kept the rest of the tensioner.
I used "Goodyear 49006 Gatorback Idler and Tensioner Pulley" from Amazon.
seemed like a waste to change the rest of the tensioner if it did not need it. mine was pretty obvious it was the pulley on the tensioner. so far so good.
I used "Goodyear 49006 Gatorback Idler and Tensioner Pulley" from Amazon.
seemed like a waste to change the rest of the tensioner if it did not need it. mine was pretty obvious it was the pulley on the tensioner. so far so good.
meerschm said:
Its actually smarter in the long run to just replace the entire tensioner. Unless you like doing more work.
meerschm said:
Its a calculated risk. They are pretty much guaranteed to fail before 150k. Mine was not broke and it still was bad at 120k. It didnt have the right amount of tension. So as you see replacing just the bearing is not recommended.For my families sake and yours I hope you do the same. Dont skimp on engine parts, especially cheap ones.
Tight? Do you actually know how to check a tensioner? Because I do and Im not bullshitting anyone here.
Sparky
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- Dec 4, 2011
- 12,927
Still takes as much grunt as expected to release the belt, it still swings in its proper arc, doesn't lean out of alignment, and it doesn't bounce.
I had a tensioner go bad in my old car so I'm aware of what to look for.
Maybe my luck is better on some things lol.
I really don't know how much an entire tensioner costs vs just the pulley. The tensioner for my old car was almost $100 so that's what I had stuck in my mind. $10 vs $100 and the pulley is the only issue? I'd go the $10 pulley. If these are a lot cheaper and not much more than the pulley then yeah, it would probably make more sense to do the whole thing.
I had a tensioner go bad in my old car so I'm aware of what to look for.
Maybe my luck is better on some things lol.
I really don't know how much an entire tensioner costs vs just the pulley. The tensioner for my old car was almost $100 so that's what I had stuck in my mind. $10 vs $100 and the pulley is the only issue? I'd go the $10 pulley. If these are a lot cheaper and not much more than the pulley then yeah, it would probably make more sense to do the whole thing.
meerschm
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- Aug 26, 2012
- 1,079
CaptainXL said:
Would be nice to explain how to "properly" check tensioner operation.
failure modes seem pretty simple, either the spring breaks, or the pivot locks up.
the tensioner at GMParts East is $68.20 plus shipping.
http://www.gmpartseast.com/Page_Pro...railblazer;2003;4WD&CatalogCode=56S&Year=2003
amazon has it for $59.84 with free shipping.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049Z6W3G/?tag=gmtnation-20
pulley was closer to $15.
and here is some propaganda, er,... literature regarding some less expensive tensioners.
http://www.gates.com/oreilly/tech_tips/Alert Flier 3.12.10.pdf
dfc739
Member
meerschm said:
I got the tension arm assembly Gates Drivealign from O'Reilly Auto for $42 plus tax. It's worked well so far.
I would also like to know how to properly test these.
meerschm said:
That's right. The Teflon inside the tensioner gets worn out over time. Not saying you can't get a new pulley for the tensioner but my argument is that it would be better to just replace the entire thing regardless if it "seemed" to still be good. If in doubt you can always use the Kirkit gauge. Dayco has some good videos.
[video=youtube;z11wfc-0-hY]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z11wfc-0-hY[/video]
meerschm
Member
- Aug 26, 2012
- 1,079
the question still unanswered is what the tension specification is?
the Krikit will provide a measure of tension, but without a number to compare against, it would be difficult to know.
with the TB tensioner, tension will also depend on the length of the belt, and proper orientation and full pulley engagement of all the accessories. ( I imagine the spring has a range of torsional values over the range of normal operation)
my service manual has a section on drive belt tensioner diagnosis. I paraphrase below:
don't let it snap to the free position, you might might break it. (not to mention your finger if it was in the way)
Tensioner will move during operation. do not replace because the arm moves.
1 remove belt
2 move tensioner through its full travel.
-movement should feel smooth
-there should be no binding
-the tensioner should return freely
3 If any binding is observed, replace
4 install belt
so if it is broke you should replace it.
if you are really worried, you can replace it.
I can see both sides, replace cause it is old and might break.
and, if it aint broke, don't fix it.
the Krikit will provide a measure of tension, but without a number to compare against, it would be difficult to know.
with the TB tensioner, tension will also depend on the length of the belt, and proper orientation and full pulley engagement of all the accessories. ( I imagine the spring has a range of torsional values over the range of normal operation)
my service manual has a section on drive belt tensioner diagnosis. I paraphrase below:
don't let it snap to the free position, you might might break it. (not to mention your finger if it was in the way)
Tensioner will move during operation. do not replace because the arm moves.
1 remove belt
2 move tensioner through its full travel.
-movement should feel smooth
-there should be no binding
-the tensioner should return freely
3 If any binding is observed, replace
4 install belt
so if it is broke you should replace it.
if you are really worried, you can replace it.
I can see both sides, replace cause it is old and might break.
and, if it aint broke, don't fix it.
meerschm said:and, if it aint broke, don't fix it.
This line of reasoning doesn't apply to preventative maintenance. Replacing the idler pulley, belt and tensioner are considered preventative maintenance.
This line of reasoning would be analogous to replacing spark plugs only after they stop firing.
Goodyear and other manufacturers recommend replacing the tensioner when the belt is changed.
Belt tension is 150 lbs.
meerschm
Member
- Aug 26, 2012
- 1,079
CaptainXL said:
where did you get the spec for the tension? and is that typical, max, or min?
and I would suggest that there are scheduled (preventative) maintenance actions, which include changing fluids, filters, and as you point out, spark plugs. but the other items are really a judgement call with replacement on observed failure to properly operate. some give you advance warning if you pay attention, some do not. some cause more expensive failures, some do not. (nothing I can think of on the TB like a timing belt on an engine with valve interference on many cars which motivates regular timing belt changes which are preventative maintenance, and in that case, I would agree that the timing belt tensioner should be replaced with the belt.)
If I changed everything which could go wrong, i would soon exceed the value of the TB (for a second time, since I ended up paying through the nose for my fuel pump r&r) do I spend $50 now, or save it for the next thing, or for the next car?
meerschm said:
I just found it looking around. According to Autozone the proper tension for a new serpentine belt is 180 -200 lbs. I've seen 150 -120 as the low range.
meerschm said:
That's a bit pessimistic. In reality there are only a handful of critical items that wear at a rapid enough rate and have a tendency to fail repeatedly. Mainly those items on a car which move at a high rate and are prone to neglect by the average owner which would include (but not limited too) the fuel pump and accessory pulley bearings.