- Jul 22, 2015
- 2,724
Ok - first off, this is not about air suspension for the Envoy - I have coil springs in the rear.
Rather, this is about my continued trials / tribulations with using garage air compressors / tools. And I'm hoping there's someone on the board that's proficient with home electrical loads.
Now, I've done enough research to know (?) that a 'real' (usable) compressor is a two-stage that runs on 220VAC. That's not feasible for me. I'm not spending that kind of money, and my garage does not have a 220 outlet, nor am I going to have one put in.
For the record, my garage outlets are GFCI (per code, I suppose). One on each of two walls. Unfortunately, everything in the garage is on one circuit (ceiling light, garage door opener outlet in ceiling, and the (2) duplex GFCI on opposite walls) The house does have 200A service, with a 40-40 box, so there's room to expand (I thought ahead, but not 'sufficiently' ahead, obviously). Built in 2003, so we're talking up-to-date wiring, etc.
The 'new' compressor is a Craftsman 32gal upright (single stage, air cooled), and while the power cord is pretty thick, it was engineered for 110VAC (factory plug / cord.) The similar owner's manual (that I found online) states that it should run on 15amp service, but it might take 'all' the voltage on the circuit to run it. FWIW, it was mfg'd by Devilbiss (I can see the certification plate on the side). SCFM is 6.2 @ 90psi, and it is rated for 135psi max. In theory, should be enough to crack the crank bolt on the 6.0L Sierra, etc.
The issue:
When I first start the compressor, it fills up without issue, kicks off the motor, etc. (it has on/auto/off modes, btw)
I can then use the rattle gun, and the tank has enough capacity to not immediately need to kick the motor back on / refill the tank. Big improvement there, over my old smaller compressor.
However, when it comes time to restart the motor / refill the tank (let's say 10min later), the 15A breaker immediately trips (normally, I never trip any breaker in the house.) Which kills everything, including the ceiling light (which is a very low-consumption CFL).
As a test, I unplugged everything except the compressor from the wall outlets; the only things on the circuit were it, the garage door opener (no light bulbs active on the control head), and the ceiling CFL. Same thing - tripped breaker. You don't even hear the motor attempt to start - rather, the power trips without a sound from the compressor (and I'm now sitting in the dark.)
What I'd like to do: Swap out the 15A breaker for a 20A. However, I know I'm not 'supposed' to do this, unless the wiring is 10-12ga or better (I don't know what's in there now, but can measure.)
Could I pull wire from the one outlet to the box? Perhaps -- but since everything in the garage is on one circuit, the wiring is interconnected.
Could I run a new circuit? Probably not. Although I have capacity, the garage is two rooms away from the box. No way I can fish tape it through the ceiling (which requires conduit, anyway), and I'm not running external conduit across two rooms / width of the lower floor.
If I can get the breaker trip issue resolved, I think the compressor will be just about perfect for my needs. As far as the compressor itself, I'd guess it would be 15 years old, but it looks almost new. I did verify that it worked before I bought it (and I only paid $125 for it, so not a fortune invested). I did notice when I ran it at home that the tank area, adjacent to the motor -- was warm (although I'm guessing that's just 'normal' heat transfer from the adjacent motor.)
I do not detect the ceiling light dimming noticeably (or, at all) when the compressor initially kicks on.
Thoughts? I'd really like to have use of a compressor -- with increased age, my hands really feel the effects of breaking bolts loose by hand, at the end of a day. Not to mention that it saves a lot of time, along with the effort.
No, I'm not a professional mechanic -- this is just for me to use, on my own vehicles.
Rather, this is about my continued trials / tribulations with using garage air compressors / tools. And I'm hoping there's someone on the board that's proficient with home electrical loads.
Now, I've done enough research to know (?) that a 'real' (usable) compressor is a two-stage that runs on 220VAC. That's not feasible for me. I'm not spending that kind of money, and my garage does not have a 220 outlet, nor am I going to have one put in.
For the record, my garage outlets are GFCI (per code, I suppose). One on each of two walls. Unfortunately, everything in the garage is on one circuit (ceiling light, garage door opener outlet in ceiling, and the (2) duplex GFCI on opposite walls) The house does have 200A service, with a 40-40 box, so there's room to expand (I thought ahead, but not 'sufficiently' ahead, obviously). Built in 2003, so we're talking up-to-date wiring, etc.
The 'new' compressor is a Craftsman 32gal upright (single stage, air cooled), and while the power cord is pretty thick, it was engineered for 110VAC (factory plug / cord.) The similar owner's manual (that I found online) states that it should run on 15amp service, but it might take 'all' the voltage on the circuit to run it. FWIW, it was mfg'd by Devilbiss (I can see the certification plate on the side). SCFM is 6.2 @ 90psi, and it is rated for 135psi max. In theory, should be enough to crack the crank bolt on the 6.0L Sierra, etc.
The issue:
When I first start the compressor, it fills up without issue, kicks off the motor, etc. (it has on/auto/off modes, btw)
I can then use the rattle gun, and the tank has enough capacity to not immediately need to kick the motor back on / refill the tank. Big improvement there, over my old smaller compressor.
However, when it comes time to restart the motor / refill the tank (let's say 10min later), the 15A breaker immediately trips (normally, I never trip any breaker in the house.) Which kills everything, including the ceiling light (which is a very low-consumption CFL).
As a test, I unplugged everything except the compressor from the wall outlets; the only things on the circuit were it, the garage door opener (no light bulbs active on the control head), and the ceiling CFL. Same thing - tripped breaker. You don't even hear the motor attempt to start - rather, the power trips without a sound from the compressor (and I'm now sitting in the dark.)
What I'd like to do: Swap out the 15A breaker for a 20A. However, I know I'm not 'supposed' to do this, unless the wiring is 10-12ga or better (I don't know what's in there now, but can measure.)
Could I pull wire from the one outlet to the box? Perhaps -- but since everything in the garage is on one circuit, the wiring is interconnected.
Could I run a new circuit? Probably not. Although I have capacity, the garage is two rooms away from the box. No way I can fish tape it through the ceiling (which requires conduit, anyway), and I'm not running external conduit across two rooms / width of the lower floor.
If I can get the breaker trip issue resolved, I think the compressor will be just about perfect for my needs. As far as the compressor itself, I'd guess it would be 15 years old, but it looks almost new. I did verify that it worked before I bought it (and I only paid $125 for it, so not a fortune invested). I did notice when I ran it at home that the tank area, adjacent to the motor -- was warm (although I'm guessing that's just 'normal' heat transfer from the adjacent motor.)
I do not detect the ceiling light dimming noticeably (or, at all) when the compressor initially kicks on.
Thoughts? I'd really like to have use of a compressor -- with increased age, my hands really feel the effects of breaking bolts loose by hand, at the end of a day. Not to mention that it saves a lot of time, along with the effort.
No, I'm not a professional mechanic -- this is just for me to use, on my own vehicles.