Reset camshaft crankshaft thingy? I think....

[Voymom]

So, it happened again. My truck stalled on me again. This time it's sunny out, partially warm (Low 50's) and no moisture in the air at all. I decided I had had enough of this crap and took it down to the towns trusted mechanic to have him hook up the tech 2. I told him what was going on, new hissing sound from engine compartment(been there since the 10th) no codes, so not a vacuum leak...I'm thinking it's a pulley. Made a video and will post it below. He ran the first scanner on it, to see if there were codes because apparently OReilly's code scanner doesn't always catch everything. He did his thing, took about 10 minutes, it was a HUGE snapon laptop like very complicated looking scanner lol. He said it found absolutely no codes as to be expected. He didn't elaborate on the hissing(of course he wouldn't I wasn't paying him to fix it). He seen the drop in RPM's and felt the shaking/stuttering I have been dealing with. So, he was really curious by this point, waived the $35.00 tech 2 diagnostic fee and took it for a spin. When he pulled up he looked even more puzzled. The tech 2 showed that everything was running up to par, besides another sticky thermostat...nothing could be found. Nor was he able to reproduce the drop in RPM to get the stalling/stuttering. He then re-hooked the truck up to the big snapon scanner and asked me

Can I reset the camshaft/crankshaft something or another in case they might be low. I missed whatever the something or another actually was, which I'm hoping someone can elaborate on what it is he reset and what the reset does. He did reset whatever it was he was talking about. At this point if he told me setting the truck on fire would fix my issues, I would have walked home lol

He then proceeded to tell me that I needed to leave the truck overnight sometime so that he can try to reproduce the drop in RPM's and the stutter/stall while hooked up to the tech 2 as the issue may be intermittent, one second whatever is failing doesn't fail, and the next second it does type of ordeal. It's $35(he won't waive the fee this time) to leave it overnight. I'm wondering if it would be worth dropping the truck off to have him do this?

Now to the hissing...it's coming from the middle of the truck, so not the power steering going out, so that's why I'm guessing it's a pulley, but I don't know. I first noticed it on the 10th when I was out picking up parts for the truck(spark plugs, end links etc...). Anyways here are 2 video's. Hopefully you all can help me out with this.

Edit- Video's are taking FOREVER to bluetooth over to my pc....I will update this when they get loaded up onto youtube.

Video # 1 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gTo4Jrtn3jY&feature=youtu.be

Video # 2 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ajw9kncVh3E

 

[gmcman]

The center part of the lower accessory is your AC compressor cycling on and off.

I would pull the belt and see if anything is rough when turning or loose and wobbly.

 

[gmcman]

As far as the drop in idle, looks like you need a Tech 2 to capture the live data from all the sensors and how the ECM reacts. You could keep replacing parts but if he's only going to charge you $35 I would surely do it.....that's a good hundred spot down here if not more.

You may have a big ole rat living in the intake tube and everytime he turns around it's choking off the airflow. He just can't decide which way to face.

 

[gmcman]

Sorry for the triple post.....just thought of something.

See if the drop in RPM occurs when the A/C compressor engages. If so, the ECM may not be receiving a signal that it's being cycled and when it does cycle, it will pull the motor down if there isn't any compensation in the TB. Then the ECM reacts to the drop in RPM by opening the TB thus giving you the quick rise in RPM.

Just a hunch.

 

[NewfieEnvoy]

Sorry for the triple post.....just thought of something.

See if the drop in RPM occurs when the A/C compressor engages. If so, the ECM may not be receiving a signal that it's being cycled and when it does cycle, it will pull the motor down if there isn't any compensation in the TB. Then the ECM reacts to the drop in RPM by opening the TB thus giving you the quick rise in RPM.

Just a hunch.

Good idea. I assume she could also just pull the fuse for the AC and see if it goes away?

 

[Voymom]

The sudden drop in RPM's where it stalls out or stutters is ONLY when stepping on the gas. However in the second video when in park and idling the needle does move up and down a little, although it's enough to hear the difference in the engine.

Which fuse would I pull for the A/C compressor? I can go do that now. As far as pulling the belt off and checking pulley's...Mat will have to do that. I'm just not strong enough to get the belt off

If that is ONE of the issues lol which would I fix? The ECM, A/C compressor or TB?

As for the stalling issue....knowing for sure now that it isn't a moisture issue, I'm holding out hope that I just need to stick the damned CPAS in and problem solved lol. THAT will go in Thursday when Mat has the day off. I will then drive the truck for a week or 2 and see where it goes from there.

Edited for clarification- The pulley I was asking about in the video which has a center piece that spins intermittently and then stops is the A/C compressor cycling?

 

[CaptainXL]

If there are no codes there is not a lot mechanics can do with these computer controlled vehicles unless they are dedicating and knowledgeable about specific issues with that particular vehicle. Unless you are willing to pay for a proper diagnostic then they just want you in and out to maximize labor revenue.

What you can do in the mean time is make sure you're running 5w-30. The engine oil weight has a large impact on cpas and the phaser operation.

 

[Voymom]

If there are no codes there is not a lot mechanics can do with these computer controlled vehicles unless they are dedicating and knowledgeable about specific issues with that particular vehicle. Unless you are willing to pay for a proper diagnostic then they just want you in and out to maximize labor revenue.

What you can do in the mean time is make sure you're running 5w-30. The engine oil weight has a large impact on cpas and the phaser operation.

We are running 5w 30 Mobile 1 full synthetic to be exact. Just did our oil change early last month when the OLM told me to do it. I have noticed that the OLM is showing that the quality or percentage of the oil is dropping much faster than it did with it's first oil change. It's at about 60% already. We have never used any other oil in the truck, except cheap dino I believe same weight to do the flush when Mat put the engine restore in, and the problems existed before we did the oil change IIRC. I actually think that the whole stalling and stuttering started after Mat put the engine restore in, but he seems to think it started doing that before hand and that's why he used the snake oil additive to begin with.

I'm honestly at my wits end with this issue, how would you feel a proper diagnostic be done? Because I know of no other way.

 

[CaptainXL]

I'm honestly at my wits end with this issue, how would you feel a proper diagnostic be done? Because I know of no other way.

Well for instance. Assuming he checked the cpas and phaser while out on the highway using the tech2 and it passed with flying colors then i would do a compression test.

 

[tblazerdude]

Have you considered a mechanical malfunction with the throttle body? It seems to be air/fuel related. Could gunked up injectors not be delivering fuel when you press the accelerator pedal? Just sucking in a bunch of air with little to no fuel to ignite?

 

[AtlWrk]

I know this has been an on-going issue so I'm sorry if this has already been addressed: what about your fuel pressure? Pump, filter, and/or regulator may not be able to keep up with the sudden demand when you accelerate.

As for the hissing: you can pull the belt out and run the engine briefly (<1min) to eliminate accessories or pulleys as the source.

 

[Voymom]

Have you considered a mechanical malfunction with the throttle body? It seems to be air/fuel related. Could gunked up injectors not be delivering fuel when you press the accelerator pedal? Just sucking in a bunch of air with little to no fuel to ignite?

Good question! And I don't have an answer for that. I couldn't even begin to tell you because when it comes to the more technical aspects of the truck i'm clueless. I'm still learning about the less technical stuff, CPAS, pulley's, hoses, those type of things. I don't even know what an injector looks like, or how to check them. Mat might know, but he is outside putting in the new CPAS I convinced him to put in lol

I know this has been an on-going issue so I'm sorry if this has already been addressed: what about your fuel pressure? Pump, filter, and/or regulator may not be able to keep up with the sudden demand when you accelerate.

As for the hissing: you can pull the belt out and run the engine briefly (<1min) to eliminate accessories or pulleys as the source.

I could not agree more! I too think it's an air/fuel issue....so does my dad who is very mechanically inclined. I have had to replace the fuel level thingy lol but that's the extent of the fuel system.

I just went out and checked the pulley's. All of them are good except the power steering pulley you can move in and out which makes a clunking noise. I have a video I will upload in a few minutes.

Mat just came inside and said the old CPAS connector had a shit load of oil in it. So maybe we'll get lucky! Fingers crossed brothers, I really want this to be it.

Well....CPAS is in, but it's the same stutter stutter drop in RPM's to a damn near stall. Maybe it needs to be driven a bit to cycle the oil and stuff as it's new. I will give it a few days until I start to sulk again. This is just so frustrating and baffling.

 

[CaptainXL]

I really want this to be it.

Realistically speaking I hope you plan on spending at least $1000 over the next year fixing the previous owners lack of care for the vehicle. I hope not but I would be prepared. Good luck.

 

[gmcman]

The sudden drop in RPM's where it stalls out or stutters is ONLY when stepping on the gas.

This is what I strongly recommend before you start throwing money into a shop.

First: As stated earlier, I would pull the serpentine belt and see how it reacts and also isolate that shreiking noise.

Second: I would get a can of BG44K and run it through the tank. Even of it doesn't cure your issue, it does magic to the combustion chamber including valve seats and the fuel passage. This stuff really works and it works quickly, contains PEA, or Polyether-amine, very agressive.

You could have a vacum leak, perhaps test the vacuum. Could have intake manifold bolts loose but doesn't appear to act in a way pointing to that but try the others first.

I agree that when you depress the accel pedal and it stumbles it surely sounds like a fuel delivery issue.

 

[Voymom]

Realistically speaking I hope you plan on spending at least $1000 over the next year fixing the previous owners lack of care for the vehicle. I hope not but I would be prepared. Good luck.

I'm not concerned about how much it will cost me in a year, 2 years, 5 years, we will cross that bridge when we get to it. Right now the bigger issue is just finding out what the heck is wrong with this thing. Thanks for the good luck...I need it lol

gmcman- Where can I find the additive? And what tests can we perform to test the fuel system? Fuel filter looks to be in great shape but I know looks can be deceiving.

A vacuum leak will throw a code, or at least 90% of the time will throw a code, which is what I have read and heard from others. Is it a possibility....definitely! And I won't rule it out until I check to be sure. I guess it's time to just make a list of possible issues and cross them off as we get to them, whether it's just tossing money at the truck and at parts, or I break down and send it to the shop for hopefully a diagnostic.

 

[Wooluf1952]

I may have missed it, but has the Fuel Pressure Regulator been checked?

 

[Voymom]

I may have missed it, but has the Fuel Pressure Regulator been checked?

Is that the fuel level thingy?

 

[Wooluf1952]

Is that the fuel level thingy?

If you follow the small vacuum hose, on the front drivers side of the intake resonator, it connects to the FPR.
As I understand it, when you step on the gas, the engine vacuum drops allowing the FPR to open up allowing more fuel into the engine to compensate for a lean condition.

 

[Voymom]

If you follow the small vacuum hose, on the front drivers side of the intake resonator, it connects to the FPR.
As I understand it, when you step on the gas, the engine vacuum drops allowing the FPR to open up allowing more fuel into the engine to compensate for a lean condition.

Okay, I understood that lol what would I be looking for? A vacuum leak? I would think with the issue I am having I would have some type of code. I'm really surprised that I don't. It must not be that big of an issue(more of an annoyance) if the computer isn't throwing a code.

I wanted to add because Mat just made me realize it before he went to work, but the stuttering and or stalling does not happen when the RPM's are idling around 1000. It only happens with lower idle RPM's...500-600, anything over 600 RPM's it won't do it. And it runs and acts perfectly fine. I did want to throw this out there in case it helps. The stalling on the hwy thing I think was a fluke or at least completely unrelated because it has never happened since, and it never happened before, it is only with the low RPM's that this occurs.

 

[CaptainXL]

Is the engine running rich? Smell like it? Could very well be the fpr.

 

[Voymom]

Is the engine running rich? Smell like it? Could very well be the fpr.

I'm not sure of the free tech 2 results as far as that goes, or if that would even tell me. I can call and ask tomorrow and double check if he read that or not. As far as my gas mileage goes I do feel it has been running slightly rich. I tried using the avg MPG on the DIC because Mat is the one who fills up the truck, he drives it the most since he uses it to get back and forth to work. On my DIC when we did the spark plus, at first it was saying 15-16 city 19-20 hwy, but then we noticed that the DIC would drop at start up to 9mpg...when I drove it to the shop, to grocery store and back home it only got as high as 10.6MPG. I know the DIC isn't a reliable form to check gas mileage and I will have to crunch some numbers(which I suck at lol). So I may have to get back to you on this one.

If this is the case, is it something the tech 2 should have pulled up? Or will a fuel pressure test need to be done to see the results?

And I really really do appreciate all the help you guys have given me. I don't know what I would do if I didn't have all of you helping me out. So thank you!!!

 

[bravad'oh]

Like GMCMAN said, you need to take the belt off and run the engine without it to verify it is related to that system. It is normal for the powersteering pulley to move in and out with the clunking noise but all others should not. Spin the idler pulleys and they should be silent and smooth running with very little play. Quite often A/C pulley bearing noises go away when your compressor kicks in so that does not seem to be the problem. It actually just sounds like an old belt to me. How old is it?

 

[Voymom]

Like GMCMAN said, you need to take the belt off and run the engine without it to verify it is related to that system. It is normal for the powersteering pulley to move in and out with the clunking noise but all others should not. Spin the idler pulleys and they should be silent and smooth running with very little play. Quite often A/C pulley bearing noises go away when your compressor kicks in so that does not seem to be the problem. It actually just sounds like an old belt to me. How old is it?

The belt is brand new...or close to it, we bought it and put it on in March of this year. I honestly think the water pump is going. I will have Mat take the belt off again and run the truck(how long can I run it for?) What am I looking for?

Edit- I am sitting here doing a bit of reading on the fuel system...I found this "If your fuel pump makes unusual noises when you turn the key on". I know this is probably a stupid question, but I'm still new at this. How exactly is the fuel pump supposed to sound? I do hear a noise(hard to explain) when I turn the key on but not completely start the truck.

I'm going to invest in a fuel pressure gauge, and go from there. From what I have been reading....people with FPR issues have had similar symptoms as what I have now. I think it's a good place to start?

 

[CaptainXL]

Even if it's not the fpr I would change it because it's a common cause of the symptoms you have. Also because we are starting to see them fail on a bunch of 2004 and earlier.

 

[Voymom]

Even if it's not the fpr I would change it because it's a common cause of the symptoms you have. Also because we are starting to see them fail on a bunch of 2004 and earlier.

I will definitely add that to my list. If it isn't faulty it can wait while I replace what it faulty...if I ever find out what that is lol

 

[CaptainXL]

I will definitely add that to my list. If it isn't faulty it can wait while I replace what it faulty...if I ever find out what that is lol

Ok. Disconnect the vacuum hose as wooluf talked about and block off the hose . If it no longer runs rich you found the problem. The fpr is only used during high load 3/4 or more throttle situations so it wont hurt to disconnect it during normal driving.. I suspect the diaphragm busted when you helped me with those 0 to 60 runs.

But first look at the fpr with the hose disconnected and the engine at idle. Make sure no fuel is leaking from it. If there is it's bad.

 

[Voymom]

Ok. Disconnect the vacuum hose as wooluf talked about and block off the hose . If it no longer runs rich you found the problem. The fpr is only used high load situations so it wont hurt to disconnect it during normal driving.. I suspect the diaphragm busted when you helped me with those 0 to 60 runs.

That could have been....but that wouldn't explain the stuttering or stalling as I have been dealing with the issue for 8 months going on 9 months now. I have owned the truck for 10 months. I will still give this a shot though, it won't hurt because as of now it's free lol

 

[bravad'oh]

You can run the engine for up to five minutes from cold with no issues. You only need to run it long enough to say yes the noise is gone or no it is not. Your dash should show a light that says your battery is not charging but you will not harm anything. Then shut the truck off and try spinning things by hand to see if you can find something noisy. Idler pulleys(the belt just runs on them like the one on the tensioner) are the first ones I suspect and they are cheap and easy to replace. I am not familiar with a water pump failure on one of these so I can't advise on that other than when you spin it by hand it should be free and smooth with very little play up and down. All of the pulleys and idlers when spun should be virtually silent. The crankshaft is the only one you won't be able to turn.

 

[CaptainXL]

That could have been....but that wouldn't explain the stuttering or stalling as I have been dealing with the issue for 8 months going on 9 months now. I have owned the truck for 10 months. I will still give this a shot though, it won't hurt because as of now it's free lol

Why do you say that? If fuel is leaking past it you will most definitely get stuttering or stalling. Too rich. It's actually fuel the pcm cannot control so it's even more suspect.

 

[Voymom]

Why do you say that? If fuel is leaking past it you will most definitely get stuttering or stalling. Too rich. It's actually fuel the pcm cannot control so it's even more suspect.

Not saying the FPR isn't the issue....Just meant that it probably didn't break or has been broken long before helping with the 0-60 runs, because I have had the issue for about as long as I have had the truck.

 

[Voymom]

You can run the engine for up to five minutes from cold with no issues. You only need to run it long enough to say yes the noise is gone or no it is not. Your dash should show a light that says your battery is not charging but you will not harm anything. Then shut the truck off and try spinning things by hand to see if you can find something noisy. Idler pulleys(the belt just runs on them like the one on the tensioner) are the first ones I suspect and they are cheap and easy to replace. I am not familiar with a water pump failure on one of these so I can't advise on that other than when you spin it by hand it should be free and smooth with very little play up and down. All of the pulleys and idlers when spun should be virtually silent. The crankshaft is the only one you won't be able to turn.

Okay I can do that. I know Mat took the belt off for me earlier, and I was able to spin and listen to the pulley's. One did seem kind of noisy on and off the block(Mat took it off and spun it on his finger) and it made like a tinking metal sound as it spun. I actually caught a sound clip of it. Water pump may be possible, but I have no other water pump symptoms like I did when it went out the first time. I could tell instantly just listening and sitting in the truck that something wasn't right. We took the belt off and wiggled everything, thinking it was a pulley, but when we got to the water pump, you could easily move it up and down, left to right, so easily my 9yr old son could have done it. It was the outer bearing that crapped out the first time.

I am keeping an open mind on the water pump...but I'm still thinking that the culprit is a pulley. We will take the belt off and try it again tomorrow.

Now if the noise is gone with the belt off and truck running, does that mean it's a pulley or does that mean the noise is elsewhere? I'm guessing if the noise is gone to expect it to be a pulley, but just want to make sure.

 

[CaptainXL]

Not saying the FPR isn't the issue....Just meant that it probably didn't break or has been broken long before helping with the 0-60 runs, because I have had the issue for about as long as I have had the truck.

Hmm. I would check exhaust pressure at some point if that's the case. Too much unburned fuel in the catalytic converter can kill it over time if we find out that is the case.

Upon starting the truck in the morning do you notice a sweet smell coming from the exhaust as the cat is heating up? After about 15 minutes of driving there should be no smell to the exhaust as the catalyst reduces everything to just h2o and co2.

 

[Voymom]

Hmm. I would check exhaust pressure at some point if that's the case. Too much unburned fuel in the catalytic converter can kill it over time if we find out that is the case.

Upon starting the truck in the morning do you notice a sweet smell coming from the exhaust as the cat is heating up? After about 15 minutes of driving there should be no smell to the exhaust as the catalyst reduces everything to just h2o and co2.

I haven't noticed any smells really, outside or inside. Would we smell it outside as it runs? Mat is on a 20 minute dinner break at 12am and I can have him start it. By that time the truck would have been sitting and cooling for 7 hours, would that be enough time to let it cool down?

 

[CaptainXL]

I haven't noticed any smells really, outside or inside. Would we smell it outside as it runs? Mat is on a 20 minute dinner break at 12am and I can have him start it. By that time the truck would have been sitting and cooling for 7 hours, would that be enough time to let it cool down?

In this cooler weather that should be enough time. I would just check for anything out of the ordinary. But it sounds like he might not know what ordinary is?

I would just check to see if it smells rich in general. Either after about 1 minute after startup or 10 minutes after. Any sulfer smells? Rotten eggs? He would be smelling just a bit at the tail pipe. Not so much that he passes out obviously. Lol

 

[Voymom]

In this cooler weather that should be enough time. I would just check for anything out of the ordinary. But it sounds like he might not know what ordinary is?

I would just check to see if it smells rich in general. Either after about 1 minute after startup or 10 minutes after. Any sulfer smells? Rotten eggs? He would be smelling just a bit at the tail pipe. Not so much that he passes out obviously. Lol

I know that there isn't a rotten egg or sulfer smell. I helped my dad fix a cat converter on one of his vehicles that had that awful smell. So the rotten smell is a no....sweet smell...don't know yet lol. I can have him sniff around on his break, and before I go out an about tomorrow mid morning, I will give it a try as well to see if Mat and I have the same results. I have always been told that if it smells like gas, then that means it's rich.

I don't know if I ever mentioned this before, but since we are on the topic of smelling stuff. I have noticed a slight gas/fuel smell in my engine oil when we change it or when I check the oil level. But because I have had a beer, I want to smell it tomorrow and make sure I'm not thinking of the Buick I had before the envoy lol. Mat said the smell is normal....I don't remember smelling gas in the engine oil in any of my other vehicles.

I'm starting to wonder if I might have a fuel leakage somewhere? I don't notice a gas smell when I start the truck, or when driving it. I would think if the truck had a fuel leak that involved the engine oil, it would have fouled the spark plugs?

 

[Sparky]

A bad FPR doesn't always show itself too much, they don't blow out either usually. They just crack internally and start seeping fuel. the FPR on the 3800 series engine in cars like the grand prix, V6 Camaro, Buicks, etc is prone to it and I had that happen. Easy way to tell it was bad was drive the car for a bit, park and shut off the engine, wait a few min, then pull the vac line on it. If the FPR is cracked it will either be damp in the vac line and/or smell like fuel.

FWIW my Trailblazer every so often does the RPM drop when tapping the gas at idle. Once in a great while it stalls but that is usually a sign of the throttle body needing cleaned again. Never have really figured out the sputter thing, but I did just replace the fuel filter so we'll see if that improves things any I guess.

 

[Voymom]

A bad FPR doesn't always show itself too much, they don't blow out either usually. They just crack internally and start seeping fuel. the FPR on the 3800 series engine in cars like the grand prix, V6 Camaro, Buicks, etc is prone to it and I had that happen. Easy way to tell it was bad was drive the car for a bit, park and shut off the engine, wait a few min, then pull the vac line on it. If the FPR is cracked it will either be damp in the vac line and/or smell like fuel.

FWIW my Trailblazer every so often does the RPM drop when tapping the gas at idle. Once in a great while it stalls but that is usually a sign of the throttle body needing cleaned again. Never have really figured out the sputter thing, but I did just replace the fuel filter so we'll see if that improves things any I guess.

Sparky- I have stayed on top of the throttle body. I check it every chance I get, and at every oil change to make sure there isn't any build up. In fact I just checked it when the spark plugs went in (4 days ago) as it was right there waving at me lol. My issue isn't a once in a while thing. It happens every single day, multiple times a day, although it has only stalled on me 5 times. To me that's not as bad as what it could be, some trucks I have read won't even start or will just stall as soon as the engine starts up. I have always felt that it was a fuel issue, just that gut feeling. I knew the CPAS wasn't going to fix it either, but I hold out to much hope I suppose lol.

As many issues I have had with the truck I don't want to scrap it. I couldn't see trying to trade it in like this either and just pawning the issues off on another family, who may be financially worse off than me. On top of that, but if the truck isn't safe because of the issue, I couldn't see living with myself if I sold it to a family and something happened at my fault and hurt anyone, let alone babies. I'm in it for the long run. I think I'm going to officially put off that paint job for now, and take care of the issues I have right now. Unless of course I can still afford it after Phantom sucks the green from mine and Mat's wallets.

 

[CaptainXL]

Great info sparky. So Tammy now that you mention you have a fuel smell in the oil. To me that means either the fpr is leaking like sparky said or a fuel injector is leaking. A fuel pressure test should prove this quickly. You just hook the pressure guage up and turn the koeo. Check the pressure and se if it holds. If the fuel pressure doesnt hold it could be either fpr or injector. For thesake of simplicity i would tackle the fpr first then run some BG 44K as gmcman recommended. You could use it anyway.

Ok?

So you got 3 important things to check in the fuel system.

1. New fuel filter
2. Pump pressure and is it holding
3. Fpr . Check like sparky said.

 

[Voymom]

Great info sparky. So now that you mention you have a fuel smell in the oil. To me that means either the fpr is leaking like sparky said or a fuel injector is leaking. A fuel pressure test should prove this quickly. You just hook the pressure guage up and turn the koeo. Check the pressure and se if it holds.

Will do Captain! I plan on having this done ASAP! Thank you all so very much!!

I think Autozone has the fuel pressure gauge for about $45.00 but I also think I can rent one. I will call them first thing in the morning.

 

[bravad'oh]

Now if the noise is gone with the belt off and truck running, does that mean it's a pulley or does that mean the noise is elsewhere? I'm guessing if the noise is gone to expect it to be a pulley, but just want to make sure.

Yep. When you stop spinning the noisey part, the noise stops. Then, you are checking one at a time , alternator, water pump , fan clutch, power steering and idlers. If the noise is still there with the belt off then it is something else. If the pulley you had off is noisey, change it. It will only get worse if you don't. You could swap similar parts from the other vehicle for cheap testing.