Replacing front struts. What add'l parts should I replace while doing this?

c good

Original poster
Member
Dec 8, 2011
534
Hi Everyone,
I'm going to start my front strut project. I have some small spacers from Maxx that I'm going to install just to level the front end. All other suspension and tires are stock.

I'm going to be ordering the Bilstien HD's. I noticed in another post someone mentioned new Strut Mounts are recommended. Are there any other parts I should gather up and have ready before jumping in?

Thanks for any info. Cam
 

Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
Yes on new mounts.

Wouldn't hurt to check other suspension components like the ball joints, sway links, etc for wear, especially if they are still original.
 

The_Roadie

Lifetime VIP Donor
Member
Nov 19, 2011
9,957
Portland, OR
Yah, upper mounts as yours are old. Check the condition of the bushings in the lower control arm. I'll be in Tri City hospital today with my wife: broke her elbow Monday afternoon - putting in a splice plate this afternoon. But if you need help in real time, PM me.
 
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kickass audio

Member
Aug 25, 2012
955
You are right, new strut mounts and you will be good to go. If you don't have a pair of locking pliers, I would grab a pair of them to help with unbolting the stubborn bolt that holds in the strut mount so you can take it off with an impact gun.

Check your sway bar links, ball joints, bushings. Aside from that you should be good. When I did mine, i just got the bilstein shock and then the moog mounts from rock auto. Everything went well with it. Hardest part was getting the old shock out of the yoke and getting that bolt for the mount off the stud on the strut.
 

808_LS_EXT

Member
Aug 28, 2014
305
Engine Mounts... Yes, you read that correctly, Engine Mounts.

I changed my engine mounts yesterday.

I have a 2WD.

I removed the nuts from the vertical studs on each ( L & R ) mount.
I was able to raise the engine with a padded jack under the oil pan...
high enough to simply swap out the passenger mount.
BUT, the driver side was a bit more challenging.
I did remove the MAP sensor, but the throttle body was hitting the fender support bar near the cowl. I could have lowered the engine and removed the throttle body and/or support bar, but I decided to try something different.

Since I already had the L/F tire off to inspect the brakes, I removed the 3 bolts, located behind the strut/spring, that attaches the mount's lower support to the frame. The spring does get in the way of the bolt heads, so that was a bit of a challenge too. Once those 3 bolts were removed, I was able to tilt the support down and swap in the new mount. I did cut 3/4" inch off the top stud so the Taller/NEW mount would slip in easier.

So, if you haven't changed your engine mounts yet... you may want to take advantage of the simplicity, while you have your strut assembly removed.
 
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paul2005tb

Member
Nov 26, 2014
299
Massachusetts
regarding ball joints, i did an inspection of mine and the black rubber cover is torn. The ball joint looked to be in very good shape but I dont expect it to last long exposed to the elements. It is a shame that there is not a means grease and put a new rubber cover over the ball joint rather than replace the entire joint.
 

paul2005tb

Member
Nov 26, 2014
299
Massachusetts
Im referring the upper ball joint.

The lower joint is tucked in the rim and seems to be much better protected from road debris.

The upper joint however seems to get allot of contact from road sand that is whipped around the wheel well.

My point was that my inspection suggests to me that the rubber boot is damaged long before the actual joint is degraded.
 

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