Is there any tricks for doing the rear seals and bearings? 1 side has a small leak and they failed it for inspection. 600.00 plus to fix. Also told me that the water pump shaft is lose and needs to be replaced 687.00 to repair. Checked myself on price and from the dealer 193.00 for pump 46.00 for the 5 bolts that GM saids to replace when replaceing the pump. Is there any difference on the rear axle fluid say GM to Valvoline or are they the same but differ in price. Same specs with syn. And GL rateing. Any help wouldbe great thank you.
Rear seals and bearings/ waterpump
- Thread starter Jon Blaze
- Start date
IllogicTC
Member
- Dec 30, 2013
- 3,452
The differences are generally accounted for by the ratings standards; let's take 5w30 oil for example, the formulations of detergents and whatnot would be different, but the 5w30 provides your viscosity rating which is of vital importance, and there's a spot on either the front or the back listing additional specifications met with manufacturers.
As far as I know there's no difference to worry about between GM and Valvoline. It just has to be synthetic 75W90, and if you have the G80 locker you'll have to add another fluid.
As far as I know there's no difference to worry about between GM and Valvoline. It just has to be synthetic 75W90, and if you have the G80 locker you'll have to add another fluid.
The Mobil1 synthetic is labeled 75W90LS and the "LS" is the additive that the G80 option potentially needs. Most parts stores ONLY carry the LS version, since having the additive does no harm if you don't need it, and the parts stores were probably sick of people asking which one they should buy and the counter monkeys often have no clue.
Water pumps at the aftermarket stores should be around $50. No need to replace the bolts.
Surely there's competent and honest independent mechanics in your town that can do this sort of job for a reasonable price. Neither of those items are rocket science.
You didn't share your mileage, but if it's over 100K, it time to swap ALL fluids including the differentials (you have two), the coolant, and especially the transfer case, which is a surprisingly short 50K interval. The transfer case can't be ignored. It'll bite you if not cared for and fed. I guarantee it.
Water pumps at the aftermarket stores should be around $50. No need to replace the bolts.
Surely there's competent and honest independent mechanics in your town that can do this sort of job for a reasonable price. Neither of those items are rocket science.
You didn't share your mileage, but if it's over 100K, it time to swap ALL fluids including the differentials (you have two), the coolant, and especially the transfer case, which is a surprisingly short 50K interval. The transfer case can't be ignored. It'll bite you if not cared for and fed. I guarantee it.
Thank you all for quick respond. Mileage is just over 70,100. Wanted to see if the rear axle seals are hard to do and if I can go with another rear axle fluid not just the GM stuff. I have already changed all the fluids at 30,000 miles. Used GM stuff only but now money is slim but I still need a reliable vehicle. Failed PA safety inspection. Tech at the dealer also said water pump has play in it and should be replaced. I want to replace the bearings while the axles are out. I never did this before but have to try it to learn. The water pump hopefully holds up for a few more weeks till Im able to replace it.
Is there any tricks to replacing the rear axle seals or bearings? Can use all help Im able to get. Is it worth replacing the bearings since Im in there?
Mooseman
Moderator
The bearings in the rear axle rarely fail unless your lube got really low. Years ago, I had an axle on my '82 S10 chewed up by the bearing but that was a problem with the axle itself.
My axle seals leaked so I replaced just the seals. That was 3 years ago. Unless the bearings are actually bad or the axle is damaged, no need to replace them. And to replace them, you need a slide hammer with a 3 jaw adapter.
My axle seals leaked so I replaced just the seals. That was 3 years ago. Unless the bearings are actually bad or the axle is damaged, no need to replace them. And to replace them, you need a slide hammer with a 3 jaw adapter.
Texan
Member
- Jan 14, 2014
- 622
Was it a GM dealer that failed it. Can you go to a independent inspection place?
I assume that the small leak was cause for concern that the emergency brake may not work?
If you have to repair the leak, just replace the seal on the side that leaks. Will require pulling
the axle, and there threads on this site about how to do that. You should get another opinion
from a trustworthy independent shop.
I assume that the small leak was cause for concern that the emergency brake may not work?
If you have to repair the leak, just replace the seal on the side that leaks. Will require pulling
the axle, and there threads on this site about how to do that. You should get another opinion
from a trustworthy independent shop.
gmcman
Member
- Dec 12, 2011
- 4,656
The seal is pretty easy, you MAY be able to get it with a prybar. You need to pull the axle which is easy, but BEFORE you open the rear cover.....make SURE you FIRST remove the fill plug. Even though a 3/8 extension works on occasion, I would strongly recommend using a dedicated square drive which is actually square and not rounded on the edges....these plugs can be real stubborn.
Once the rear cover is off, locate the 10MM bolt on the carrier and remove it, then let the cross pin slide out. At this point, have someone push in on the axle until you can get the C-clip which basically falls out, a small telescoping magnetic pick up tool is very handy.
You may want to change the bearings at this point but they rarely fail, I used the slide hammer from Advanced Auto and it worked but does require some effort.
I recommend both seals when you have the cross pin out....a lot of labor saved.
Once the rear cover is off, locate the 10MM bolt on the carrier and remove it, then let the cross pin slide out. At this point, have someone push in on the axle until you can get the C-clip which basically falls out, a small telescoping magnetic pick up tool is very handy.
You may want to change the bearings at this point but they rarely fail, I used the slide hammer from Advanced Auto and it worked but does require some effort.
I recommend both seals when you have the cross pin out....a lot of labor saved.
Mooseman
Moderator
A very old Hot Rodder trick for removing the seals is to use the end of the axle. The c-clip groove grabs the lip of the seal very well and just pry using the axle. A trick so old, I can't find a picture of it anywhere.
Before putting the new seal in, clean out the bore and put a smear of silicone sealant.
Before putting the new seal in, clean out the bore and put a smear of silicone sealant.
Thank you everyone. Pulled both axles and on 1 side there is wear on the axle where the seal sits this was the side that was leakig. Pulled the other axle and very little wear but there was some. Inside the tube there was a rubber piece connected to a spinner. That controls ABS and stab. track. The rubber is no longer connected now lights are on and more problems. The piece is called a reluctor. I would post pics but not sure how to. I will keep everyone posted.
Mooseman
Moderator
It's unusual for a groove to wear into the axle, especially at such a low mileage. Options could be to find a good used axle. Unfortunately, I'm not familiar with rear ABS reluctors as mine doesn't have any.
gmcman
Member
- Dec 12, 2011
- 4,656
Did you remove the ABS sensor before you pulled the axle? I'm not sure but I think you do to not damage the reluctor or sensor..don't quote me on that.
I'm almost certain you need to pull the reluctor in order to pull the bearing though thus destroying it.
The groove could be caused by grit from the brakes or a bent axle flange, but a bent flange would show a groove that wasn't uniform all the way around. I had 2 bent axles from a donor SS rear that you couldn't see unless the tire was mounted or you used a dial gauge with jst the axle turning.
I'm almost certain you need to pull the reluctor in order to pull the bearing though thus destroying it.
The groove could be caused by grit from the brakes or a bent axle flange, but a bent flange would show a groove that wasn't uniform all the way around. I had 2 bent axles from a donor SS rear that you couldn't see unless the tire was mounted or you used a dial gauge with jst the axle turning.
The reluctor is inside the axle behind the bearing. I dont know how to post pics. I have a few. The grove is completely around the whole axle. Im the orginal owner from new. You can see the reluctor on line here is the gm part#1247-9286. There is a rubber boot inside that slides over the axle. The dealer wanted 600.00 plus to do the seal. They would want 3000.00 to do all this work. LOL.
I replaced water pump bad bearing in it. You want to use the metal gasket. I had to replace the 5 water pump bolts on mine. Dealer said best thing to do they are yield to tork bolts. I also had to buy the tools to properly take the fan clutch assembly off so i didnt damage the electric fan clutch. Check amazon for water pump they sell water pump with and with out metal gasket. They also sell metal gasket.
BlazingTrails
Member
- Apr 27, 2014
- 19,409
I just did my water pump and it came with a metal gasket coated with black sealant. While on the subject, if for any reason I have to take that gd fan/clutch/shroud assembly out again it will be replaced with an electric fan. That thing really tried my patience and things like that usually never get to me. Lol
BlazingTrails
Member
- Apr 27, 2014
- 19,409
Yes i do know what you mean with that fan assembly big p.i.t.a. But feels better then 600 plus to the repair shop.
BlazingTrails
Member
- Apr 27, 2014
- 19,409
Yeah I had no problems getting it done, but after seeing the amount of space opened up with the fan out it really make me want to go to electric. It was a little on the ridiculous side getting the fan assembly back in the truck. one of the worst ones I have ever done. BMW's are easier than that lol
Mooseman
Moderator
BlazingTrails
Member
- Apr 27, 2014
- 19,409
No I didn't, I don't really like modifying parts. I didn't really have a problem getting the shroud in/out the problem was getting the fan clutch in/out of place.Mooseman said:
I am thinking that it will be getting an electric fan pretty soon, my fan clutch bearing is starting to make a little noise so it will be going bye-bye in a few months
