I know I am replying to an older thread, but in case this helps anyone else here is some info. I am changing out my struts with quick struts, and what I did:
- leave top nuts in strut tower loosely on to keep strut from falling out on you when it comes apart.
- pay attention to how the strut and yoke are aligned, you will need this when you put back together.
- removed pinch bolt. I was able to remove nut, and then thread nut back on until threads level with bolt, and then used a hammer to push the bolt out some. Then I used a metal chisel to widen up the crack enough to get the bolt out if needed.
- leave the strut in the yoke for now.
- removed yoke using pittman arm puller. Put on penetrating oil, remove nut. Then pounded on a pittman arm puller using a hammer, snugged it up tight but not tight enough to break it. Then pounded from the other side with my 3lb sledge and a piece of black pipe. Also I pounded around the sides of yoke. After a few pounds I tightened up the pittman arm puller and eventually it popped off. This sounds like a lot of work but in all honesty wasn't bad at all. I have worked with much much harder pittman type pulls. (can anyone say ford f150 steering gear connection!)
- removed strut and yoke together, and then laying on garage floor pounded in a metal chisel into crack of pinch part to widen up the hole. Then used a hammer on bottom of strut to pound it up and out of yoke.
- when installing new strut, put in yoke first, and then install in vehicle, this worked for me. I have done one side and 2nd side will be this evening. I remember having to use the jack to raise and lower control arm with steering knuckle to kind of get things arranged for space. I also took off the axle nut and used a drift to move the cv shaft out of the hub so I wouldn't screw up the axle stuff. (and moved brake caliper and caliper bracket out of way first)
-Jerry