Problems with rear audio and RSE after installing Kenwood Excelon and JBL Club

stace1010

Original poster
Member
Sep 23, 2019
4
Westminster, Co
Hi. This is my first post so hopefully, I get all the right info here. My best friend got a Kenwood Excelon DPX502BT to put in my 03 Trailblazer LTZ Premium Bose with RSE controls for my birthday. What was supposed to be a sweet gesture, has become a bit of a nightmare. I will start with a quick overview of what I'm working with, but the basic problems are:
1. Rear speakers have sound with Fader set at Zero, but when faded to the rear I lose all sound in the rear speakers.
2. On the RSE/RHVAC control module, I am only getting power to the RHVAC portion. The RSE control will not even power on.

Specs on the equipment are:
Original stock Bose Premium sound system front speakers, tweets, and factory amp still in place.
Replaced factory stereo with Kenwood Excelon DPX502BT using
PAC RP5 GM11 Interface (not realizing that the SWC can't be plugged in with the adapter as is) so currently no SWC. I'm fine with that at this point.)
Rear speakers were replaced with JBL Club 6520 Speakers
I will attach pics with some specs and wiring if that is allowed?

So, my questions:
1. Why am I getting power to the RHVAC portion of the control mod, but not the RSE portion?

2. Does the RSE affect the rear speakers or is it not part of the same unit?
Why does fading the speakers to the rear cause me to lose all rear speaker sound? I should also mention that when setting my Front HPF Gain the rear speakers got louder when the front was set at 0 vs -8. This still had no effect on the fader.

3. What do I need to do to correct the speakers and the power to the RSE?

Thank you and please let me know if posting the pics of the equipment specs and wiring is allowed and/or necessary.
 

Blckshdw

Moderator
Nov 20, 2011
10,660
Tampa Bay Area, FL
My truck doesn't have RSE so I'm not familiar with the ins and outs of it, but pics are always welcomed and appreciated, especially when looking for assistance in troubleshooting. So please post whatever pics you have. :yes:
 

Matt

Member
Dec 2, 2011
4,015
The RP5 GM11 doesn't support fading, that's why you lose sound fading to the rear. The GMOS that I'm using is the same. According to PAC it should support the RSE, so I'm not sure what's happening there. I personally don't use the RSE so I don't care if it works or not.
 
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stace1010

Original poster
Member
Sep 23, 2019
4
Westminster, Co
Thanks Matt. That makes sense. Is there another interface that you know of that does support the fader? Also I was wrong on the Kenwood Model (if it matters) it's actually an Excelon DPX592BT.

Also if you have any tips on setting the audio settings like the x over and frequency's with the given speaker specs that would be awesome.

Thanks again!
 

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Matt

Member
Dec 2, 2011
4,015
Thanks Matt. That makes sense. Is there another interface that you know of that does support the fader? Also I was wrong on the Kenwood Model (if it matters) it's actually an Excelon DPX592BT.

Also if you have any tips on setting the audio settings like the x over and frequency's with the given speaker specs that would be awesome.

Thanks again!

No worries. I have no idea on the audio settings. I just left it stock. AFAIK, the GMOS-04 is the only one that retains the fade for our amp. A lot of guys have had issues with the Axxess units but I haven't had an issue with my AX-GMCL2-SWC.
 

stace1010

Original poster
Member
Sep 23, 2019
4
Westminster, Co
After installing the new rear JBL's I am being driven nuts by the fader because I am not getting equal sound from the rear leaving it sounding "all in front." I am definitely looking into getting something that includes the fader, but my new question is this, Is it possible to correct what sounds like the loss of good rear speaker sound, with like a 12 in. sub? It's like I have no bass in the back... It sounds weak. If so will I need to get another amp other than the factory?

If I sit in the back seat it sounds ok, but I'm the driver and hardly ever have people in the back. I guess what I'm getting at is, help me understand the process of evening out the sound and getting killer sound. Recommendations, directions, anything... and although I am knowledgable in general, let's say anyone else might need some step by steps. If nobody has time for that I completely understand. It just baffles me that this stock Premium Bose is such a b#@tch for lack of a better word. Thanks!
 

Blckshdw

Moderator
Nov 20, 2011
10,660
Tampa Bay Area, FL
I'm not sure I follow what you're saying. When you sit in the back, the overall sound is good, but when you sit in the front, it sounds like all the sound is in front? :confused: Or were you talking strictly about the bass levels?
 

stace1010

Original poster
Member
Sep 23, 2019
4
Westminster, Co
When the feeder position is set at zero I have sound coming from both the front and rear speakers. If I turn the fader to the rear I have no sound coming from the rear or front. When adjusting the v-offset in a negative direction I seem to have a decrease in sound from the front and rear, but moreso from the front. When adjusting the v-offset in the positive direction I seem to get a marked increase in volume from the rear and minimal increase from the front.

Yes. I decided to sit in the back seat to listen to the overall sound and it sounds much more even in the back. Probably because the rears are closer in proximity to the ear. When I move to the front though I am hearing the rear speakers as a quieter sound in comparison to the front. Ughhh. I wish you could just sit in it and hear. Is there some way to post an audio or video of me adjusting them so it would make sense? Thanks so much for trying to help.
 

Blckshdw

Moderator
Nov 20, 2011
10,660
Tampa Bay Area, FL
Most of us upload to Youtube, and then post the link here, it will play directly in the browser. Maybe try that?
 

Reprise

Lifetime VIP Donor
Supporting Donor
Member
Jul 22, 2015
2,724
I have some thoughts, but typing on my phone so will try and bullet point for now...

Best bet - Rip out entire system & add HU / amp / speaks / optional sub. If you really want 'killer' sound, this is way to go - only limiting factor is how much you want to spend. Bose amp will eventually fail, anyway. Downside - no rear seat ctrls (but no pax, so who cares?)

Next best - Replace PAC w/ GMOS-04 + SWIC-01. You'll have fade plus SWC, which for you is fine (no pax). But you'll lose rear seat ctrls (not supported). Cheaper than putting in all-new system.

If you go w/ all-new system, you could do front speaks & sub (either w/ outboard amp or powered sub.) If you have a discerning ear, you could get component speaks for the front.
Best sound stage should be focused in front (like you listen @ home). Rear, if you have them, are only for fill. If you really want the rear, go w/ a 5-channel amp - you can run everything from it. Also w/ a 5-chan, you could config for 3 at first, then add rear speaks later, if desired.

As for gear - what do your music tastes lean to? And what sources do you primarily use (radio, CD, btooth, USB, streaming, etc) ? Answers here help determine what best ratio of price vs fidelity would be for you.

If you're concerned about RES for resale, etc - just save OEM gear & swap back when you sell.
 

Maverick6587

Member
Dec 16, 2018
730
Sterling Heights, Michigan
I thought the RP5-GM11 had built-in SWC that just could not be modified?
I would call a few local audio shops and see if they'll upgrade your firmware on the GM11. It can only be updated by PAC-UP device and that costs another $30-$50, depending on where you get it from.

I'm installing my HU this weekend and I'm using the GM1A-RST as it has programmable SWI, fading controls, and is updatable via USB to a computer, PAC-UP is not needed. I was going to use the RP5-GM11, but not having any fading options would have driven me nuts.

That GM1A-RST set me back a bit. If you need to save a little bit below are some less expensive options.

GM1A-RX has fading but no on-star retention
GM1A-RS has fading and on-star

Beyond that, I would call the guys at PAC. There tech guys are really good. You'll be on hold for a little bit though. They're open until 8 pm EST.
 

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