Prndl going crazy

spfautsch

Member
Feb 6, 2024
24
Montgomery City, MO
Here's what the internal PCB looks like. The microscopic bridge wires appeared to be both un-insulated by the conformal coating, and possibly touching in several places. There's no "benchtop" repair possible on a board like this. Simply removing the conformal coating would destroy the bridge wires. Why in dog's name did they design something as mission-critical as a transmission control module using such fragile interconnects?

It's been driven for 4 or 5 trips between my house and my mother's and there's nothing wrong with the transmission behavior, and certainly no recalcitrant P0604 DTC (or any DTCs).

I'm somewhat concerned by the potential failure rate of this type of part in an automotive environment.
 

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spfautsch

Member
Feb 6, 2024
24
Montgomery City, MO
Returning with an update. Like the symptoms. I was just about to come back and declare all is well when on another warm afternoon the sound of the door locks cycling killed my buzz.

As it seemed to be temperature dependent I immediately split the fuse block and inspected the copper interconnects, to find nothing obvious.

After sleeping on the problem it occurred to me that the previous owner stated the rear main seal had been replaced. As this necessitated removal of the transmission, I started thinking about wire routing and realized I hadn't messed with the wiring that crossed over the top of the transmission. I also recalled seeing some grey wiring loom clips on the back side of the crossmember that were empty, and then a light bulb went on. Whoever pulled the trans routed the left downstream O2 sensor wires over the trans / transfer case. After messing with this the PRNDL indicator stopped moving altogether and then the DIC gave me a 'service stabilitrack' warning.

I may end up pulling the crossmember to lower the trans / transfer case enough to get the harness out far enough it can be serviced.

Once again a pro mechanic has sodomized me without so much as a kiss or a thank-you. I'll add this chapter to the book I'm writing entitled "why I can't afford to let professionals work on my vehicles".

I'll post back with pics when I find the carnage, which I'm all but certain is somewhere on top of the transmission.
 
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mrrsm

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FWIW... Observe this Partial "Door Locks" Schematic, noting that in addition to checking the "B" Pillar Grounds at G302 and G303 for being either loose or corroded... there is the actual possibility of Module Interference happening if the LGM Pass Through Harness in the Upper Lift Gate Tunnel is shorting out or has Broken Wires in that Bundle.

2007-02-06_135532_door_2.jpg

Boot1.jpgBoot2.jpg
This may not be the source of the problem... but if ANY of the Door Lock Modules have an Internal Intermittent Short... the issues with the Wiring over the Transmission may prove to be "The MacGuffin" here ...obscuring the actual problem spot(s):

Door Lock Actuators:


55ae617b41c04a15b40f66c8e780541e_490.jpg55ae617b41c04a15b40f66c8e780541e_490.jpg


...and just in case the Lift Gate Latch is involved (Rattling Loosely while Driving):

 
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spfautsch

Member
Feb 6, 2024
24
Montgomery City, MO
Again, I appreciate the effort, but please carefully re-read everything I've posted since "hijacking" this thread.

Once you have, please justify how your theory explains why the issue I'm having:

1) causes the prndl indicator in the instrument panel to jump from D to P and then back when cruising at highway speeds - for no apparent reason

2) ultimately resulted in the demise of the previous TCM, where it ended in a state where it was setting a recalcitrant P0604 - Internal Control Module Random Access Memory Error that recurred even after battery disconnected

After lowering the assembly far enough to pull the entire harness that wraps the transmission into the engine compartment I was unable to find any "smoking gun". But there were numerous places where the wiring bundle was stuck together from heat and age as well as large sections of crumbled / missing split loom. If I didn't need to drive it tomorrow I would've left it apart and gone over each wire more thoroughly. I may end up doing that. But for now it is at least properly routed and completely covered in split loom.
 
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spfautsch

Member
Feb 6, 2024
24
Montgomery City, MO
While I didn't cover every inch of wire with a magnifying glass, I feel like wiring from the top of the engine to the far end of that branch of the loom (the downstream left O2 sensor) seems not to be the culprit. Behavior today was nearly identical to the last time I commuted it to work. Will describe in detail below.

I said I would post a new thread, but there are a few following this one still and the symptoms seem to be the same. So apologies to OP Spck, or perhaps shame on you for not returning with an update.

Just to recap, here's what I've done / tested:

1) Tested the ground to the module - TCM appears to be grounded on the lower right front of the engine with the ECM grounds. Just to be certain I also added an additional ground wire from the TCM case to the chassis. If you refer to my post-mortem picture of the module's internals, there are clearly ground straps between the external connector's ground terminal to both the aluminum case and the circuit board, so there's nothing wrong with this electrically.

2) Generally wiggled every wire bundle I could safely get to with the engine running and shifter in drive.

3) Replaced the PNP / range switch on the 4l60e shift shaft with known good one.

4) Replaced the TCM after the previous one (I feel like it's not the original) developed a recurring P0604 DTC after a prolonged period of "going crazy".

5) Checked for cracked copper shunts in the underhood fuse block feeding power from fuse 15 and 53 to the C1 connector on the fuse block (front right connector).

6) Checked aforementioned transmission harness for obvious signs of damage.

7) Loaded up the parts cannon this afternoon and replaced the ignition switch in the parking lot at work.

I will try to capture a video of it acting up as I've started to recognize a pattern. Bear in mind I've just recently acquired this vehicle, and so have only been driving it semi-regularly for the past 7 weeks. Semi-regularly meaning I drive it 115 miles round trip to work on Mondays and Fridays, as well as to chase parts around town (the entire town is 2.5 miles end-to-end) or take the wife on short-ish (30-60 mile) trips on occaison.

When it "acts up" most noteably is after it's been driven continuously for 20+ minutes to get to operating temperature and then left to cool for 1-3 hours. It will generally not do anything while warming up initially, but afterwards. Twice today it "went bonkers" after starting and pulling out of the parking lot at work after sitting for several hours. Once for lunch, and then again when heading home. Most of the time the vehicle will be in motion, but earlier tonight it cycled the PRNDL indicator once while waiting motionless at a stop light. When in motion, I can feel the sensation that the ECM is invoking torque management, or perhaps the TCM is reducing line pressure. Edit: after thinking on it, these two symptoms are likely cause-and-effect.

After replacing the TCM module I did not experience a single recurrence of the problem for almost two weeks, and I was the only person driving it during this period. However, the ambient temps were almost entirely below 36F for most of the drives during those two weeks. In amendment to the previous paragraph, when it "acts up" also seems to trend to days when the ambient temperature is > 40F.

I think my next two avenues to explore will be tracing everything that connects to the TCM through shunt wires in the underhood fuse block, and looking at TCM live PIDs to see if any are showing intermittent / random data. This is going to necessitate me buying either an inexpensive scan tool, (inexpensive meaning ~$500) or bending over and paying GM a subscription fee to (hopefully) diagnose.

Thanks for all the ideas, and even more for any new ones (that don't involve the door lock circuitry). I've said to myself more than once that "I'm at wit's end" with this issue, when in all honesty I'm not. I'm simply looking for Occam's Razor - the most likely explanation is usually the correct one. Nothing else in the vehicle interfaces directly to the PNP / transmission range switch other than the TCM. It seems whatever is causing this problem is quite obviously that module or one of it's inputs or outputs.
 
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spfautsch

Member
Feb 6, 2024
24
Montgomery City, MO
Hoping I might have found something.

After thinking over the symptoms and the temperature variable that seems to be key, my mind kept taking me back to the underhood fuseblock as this has been notorious for problems that only surface when the vehicle is at operating temperature.

Another factor is that I noticed on the below schematic that the ground for the transmission PNP / range switch seems to pass through said fuseblock on C1/F6-F7. I did not look at this previously because I incorrectly traced a shunt or two and determined that C1 was the right-most front connector here when in fact it is not.

pg164.png

After pulling the fuseblock and separating it once again I noticed the copper shunt on the terminals between C1/F6-F7 seemed to be raised up more than others. So I used a flat-blade screwdriver to seat them better, and then broke out the soldering iron to hopefully make that connection that much more permanent. I don't think I have a picture so I might have to pull the whole thing to get a good one if this turns out to be the fix.

I have about 3-1/2 hours of drive time on it including commuting to work today. Touching wood, so far no incidents.
 

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