- Jul 22, 2015
- 2,724
Background / as equipped:
- 2003 Envoy XL with UQA and SWC
- Replaced the head unit with a nice Kenwood Excelon last summer (along with a GMOS-04, but not the adapter for the SWC as of yet - I drive left-handed 90% of the time, and I'm saving a whole 8" to grab the wheel with my right hand, vs just operate the head unit with my RH. However, I may spring for the SWC adapter when I put my next head unit in in spring. I had no problems installing the unit at all, and it works perfectly (I have my chimes, and they're important to me to retain them).
-Apparently have the 'Lux' amp, given the age of the vehicle - but the right front channel will overheat (distort) at low volumes on the hottest summer days, and especially if the truck has been sitting in the sun - so I'm going to replace the amp - and since it's going, the door speakers, too.
- Also, given that it's an '03, I have the 1st-gen (analog) OnStar - which I'd like to disconnect / remove - and I've found the threads on doing this, so I've got no questions there.
I don't care about RAC; I drive the vehicle alone most of the time, and use it for hauling stuff around. Something around 70-100 watts / channel, with complimentary power for a sub would be fine - the volume I get from the current Bose amp would be sufficient, for purposes of comparison - although it sorely lacks not having a subwoofer.
I've been thinking about a powered sub, as I don't want to build an external box that would take up cargo room (and don't want to spend the $ right now for something like the JL Audio retrofits in the rear panels, just to see it covered up / blocked with cargo). Even a 3-channel system (front doors + sub) would likely be enough for me in this vehicle - it's not my daily driver. But I'd still be looking at two power 'footprints' with a powered sub - the one for the sub, and the separate amp for the front speaks. The HF amp, I'd likely place in the small storage compartment in the rear floor,and the powered sub would go under the 2nd row seats.
It's been awhile since I put a whole system in a car, but back in the day, I had a dual-deck, tri-amped system w/ external crossover network in a Honda CRX - so I have some experience. However, installing secondary batteries, hi-cap alternators, or the 'big 3' is more than I want to do right now.
I've been searching for info on the best way to run the wiring so that I can retain the chimes after the Bose amp has been disconnected - but it's my understanding that it has to remain connected in some capacity (along with the dash speaks) to retain the chimes. I can live with not removing the dash speakers (and not using them); if I go with components in the front, I can live with the tweets either in the existing door housings, along with the mids, or perhaps in the A-pillars, to improve SQ / imaging.
I'd like to remove the Lux amp entirely, and not have to leave it connected to power *just* for the chimes. I'm fine with extending a couple of wires from its harnesses someplace, to retain those chimes, if I can ditch the amp. Same goes for the dash speakers - I'll leave them where they're at, but not have them used for sound reproduction, in a best-case scenario.
Anyway, since I can't seem to find postings relevant to what I want to do, can someone let me know if I can keep the chimes if I rip out the rest of the UQA components? Since I don't care about RAC or OnStar, I suppose it seems silly to worry so much about retaining the chimes - but they're useful for me. Thanks for any / all replies & suggestions.
- 2003 Envoy XL with UQA and SWC
- Replaced the head unit with a nice Kenwood Excelon last summer (along with a GMOS-04, but not the adapter for the SWC as of yet - I drive left-handed 90% of the time, and I'm saving a whole 8" to grab the wheel with my right hand, vs just operate the head unit with my RH. However, I may spring for the SWC adapter when I put my next head unit in in spring. I had no problems installing the unit at all, and it works perfectly (I have my chimes, and they're important to me to retain them).
-Apparently have the 'Lux' amp, given the age of the vehicle - but the right front channel will overheat (distort) at low volumes on the hottest summer days, and especially if the truck has been sitting in the sun - so I'm going to replace the amp - and since it's going, the door speakers, too.
- Also, given that it's an '03, I have the 1st-gen (analog) OnStar - which I'd like to disconnect / remove - and I've found the threads on doing this, so I've got no questions there.
I don't care about RAC; I drive the vehicle alone most of the time, and use it for hauling stuff around. Something around 70-100 watts / channel, with complimentary power for a sub would be fine - the volume I get from the current Bose amp would be sufficient, for purposes of comparison - although it sorely lacks not having a subwoofer.
I've been thinking about a powered sub, as I don't want to build an external box that would take up cargo room (and don't want to spend the $ right now for something like the JL Audio retrofits in the rear panels, just to see it covered up / blocked with cargo). Even a 3-channel system (front doors + sub) would likely be enough for me in this vehicle - it's not my daily driver. But I'd still be looking at two power 'footprints' with a powered sub - the one for the sub, and the separate amp for the front speaks. The HF amp, I'd likely place in the small storage compartment in the rear floor,and the powered sub would go under the 2nd row seats.
It's been awhile since I put a whole system in a car, but back in the day, I had a dual-deck, tri-amped system w/ external crossover network in a Honda CRX - so I have some experience. However, installing secondary batteries, hi-cap alternators, or the 'big 3' is more than I want to do right now.
I've been searching for info on the best way to run the wiring so that I can retain the chimes after the Bose amp has been disconnected - but it's my understanding that it has to remain connected in some capacity (along with the dash speaks) to retain the chimes. I can live with not removing the dash speakers (and not using them); if I go with components in the front, I can live with the tweets either in the existing door housings, along with the mids, or perhaps in the A-pillars, to improve SQ / imaging.
I'd like to remove the Lux amp entirely, and not have to leave it connected to power *just* for the chimes. I'm fine with extending a couple of wires from its harnesses someplace, to retain those chimes, if I can ditch the amp. Same goes for the dash speakers - I'll leave them where they're at, but not have them used for sound reproduction, in a best-case scenario.
Anyway, since I can't seem to find postings relevant to what I want to do, can someone let me know if I can keep the chimes if I rip out the rest of the UQA components? Since I don't care about RAC or OnStar, I suppose it seems silly to worry so much about retaining the chimes - but they're useful for me. Thanks for any / all replies & suggestions.
