NEED HELP P10 PCM Benchtop harness with BCM\Radio support?

[Bill Reid]

I have the info needed to build a P10 PCM benchtop harness. And I have a spare harness that goes from PCM to BCM (with radio wiring). I suppose I can trace all the harness wiring out but just wondering if anybody has done it before... as in how to correctly power up BCM in order to (benchtop) reprogram .
Planning Tech2/TIS2000 summer activities. Trying to setup for programming inside house versus sitting out in a hot car.

 

[Mooseman]

I even wonder if you need both hooked up to be able to program one of them. I'm definitely interested in this project.

 

[Bill Reid]

I don't know if the BCM can be programmed seperately. Certainly worth a try wiring the BCM C1/B1 to DLC pin2. But I wonder if using the PCM in series as shown below might be a safer setup for my Tech2(?).
Here is a first draft attempt at incorporating the BCM. The PCM info came from EFILive so I'm pretty confident that the PCM side is correct. What I don't know is what Battery Voltage and Ignition Voltage (0,1,3) pins need to be powered and whether or not the BCM needs to "see" any of the other modules it controls hooked up in order to accept any programming. Unless someone has done this before it will be trial and error. I just don't want to burn anything up. I think my Tech2 will be OK as it looks like the PCM is used as a passthru(?) to the BCM.

(edit) Draft schematic image removed due to being incorrect.

 

[Bill Reid]

Here is Rev0 with some adds/changes/corrections. Any input appreciated

(edit) couple minor corrections...

 

[Bill Reid]

Here is the project box I'm going to use - 3 X 2.5 X 1. Plan is to hardwire PCM pigtails. For the BCM, Radio, and whatever future module that could possibly be benchtop programmed I'll build separate pigtails that I'll connect to the box via a D-Sub 9 connector.
Software/Connectivity issues not withstanding the BCM C3 connector is a ribbon cable which I'll have to butcher to make work. I have a couple of extra ribbon cables I can cut up and see if I can make a decent pigtail out of. I could use a spare fuse box but trying not to make it too big of a setup.

 

[Bill Reid]

Couple progress pics... upgraded to a bigger cast aluminum project box - MUCH easier to drill. Just no room in the earlier plastic box I mocked up. I went with a different connector than a D-Sub9... easier to mount and all I (think) I'll ever need is 5 conductors for this project. Going to mount a terminal block in the bottom... will make disassembly (future upgrades easier). Paint is drying. Should start assembly tomorrow. If interested I can post some part #'s. I have bought a couple things on Amazon, Ebay, Fry's Electronics, and Home Dept. FYI, $ adds up quick...

 

[swede]

When you program the BCM you are suppose to remove a fuse, if I remember correct it's #6 in the fuse box under rear seat. The TIS2000 tells you what fuse to remove before you start programming the BCM.

 

[Bill Reid]

Eric, thanks for the feedback... much appreciated. I looked through the GM SI instructions on BCM programming (03-05) and couldn't find the note on pulling fuse #6. I'll look out for it in TIS2000 BCM programming instructions. It appears to be a fuse for the Lift Gate Module and Memory Seat Modules. I will research it a bit more. Thanks. Below is a pic of the "rig" mostly complete. I can at least try reprogramming a spare PCM I have. I'm going to spend a little more time on how to butcher the BCM C3 connector making it robust enough for benchtop programming. We'll see.

 

[Bill Reid]

I got it mostly finished today, continuity checked, and then powered up PCM (1st) and BCM (2nd). Tech 2 reads both just fine I had the Tech 2 running off power from DLC so I was able to tell how much current it draws. The PCM draws about 440 milliamps and the Tech 2 draws about 450 milliamps. Looks like the BCM draws about 50 milliamps. I haven't checked to see how much current the radio draws yet. What I'll probably do is move the Tech 2 off of the benchtop harness power supply and plug it into the wall before plugging radio in. Anyway getting closer to testing programming...

 

[Bill Reid]

I tried to get TIS2000 to communicate with Tech 2. No dice... yet. I installed TIS2000 awhile back and followed the instructions of the crack. I launched TIS2000 once (opening Service Programming System app once) and closed it down. Now TIS2000 will not even launch SPS, not sure why. Also, Tech 2 View app will not communicate with Tech 2.
If I remember correctly the installation software asks you what port you want to use. I selected Port 4 as that is the port the adaptor first adopted. I have looked through I O management and Dongle, Passthru, Tech 2. Port 4 is selected for all of them. I did not mess with Baud speed. I went into Device Manager for the laptop, checked Serial Port (USB), and Port 4 is selected. I checked Security Device System Driver within TIS2000 and looks as though nothing is selected. I thought the crack was supposed to bypass need for dongle(?). Message down at bottom says "GM Access Server not detected".

Should I uninstall/reinstall?

Thanks.

 

[Mooseman]

You're not the first one reporting problems with it. I think the crack is supposed to emulate the dongle and it shouldn't communicate with the server. It doesn't need to since you can't get a newer update for the card in the Tech 2.

You might have to do a reinstall and specify the proper port. Or change the port number for the serial port to match what is in Tis2000.

 

[Bill Reid]

Thanks for the fast response Not real good with Windows. I can select port within Device Manager - Serial Port (USB)? Right now Device Manager and IO Management (Dongle, Passthru, Tech 2) all say Port 4. Maybe TIS2000 does not like Port4(?).

If anything I can uninstall and try again...

 

[Mooseman]

I have a true serial port so that may be why I haven't seen any issues.

 

[Bill Reid]

I couldn't even get SPS to launch within TIS2000... all serial (USB) port disconnected. Right now, I'm just reinstalling and we'll see what happens.

 

[Bill Reid]

Software reloaded. Still trying to use Serial Port 4 for now. Communication with Tech 2 View app now works. SPS now launches. I tried Passthru programming method first try on PCM. Still have communication issues. However, I was able to reprogram PCM using the remote method (download to Tech 2 then download to PCM. So, the communication is working... but for some reason Passthru method won't work. Still playing with it. Is there a specific Baud Rate I should be using for Passthru?
Eric, yes, TIS2000 asks for Fuse#6 and Fuse#51 to be removed which may cause errors. I don't have anything hooked to the BCM other than power, switched power, and comm with PCM and DLC. I'll try and reprogram a spare BCM I have later and see what that does. I assume I can reprogram using the remote method (download to Tech 2 then to BCM).

 

[Mooseman]

I just left the baud rate and everything else at their default settings. I have a feeling it's your USB serial adapter. IIRC from Saab Central, just one type of adapter works properly. Are you using a standalone XP machine or a virtual one?

 

[Bill Reid]

Stand alone laptop running XP. Do you have make/model of adaptor? Assuming still available?

I was able to reprogram the BCM using the same remote method as the PCM. So, now I at least have something to test in the TB.

It looks like I can use the calibration file with fog lights when I'm ready later. All the wiring was already there at the light switch (and BCM). Just need to install the Fog Lamp Relay in the rear fuse box and install the spare front factory headlight harness (with fog lights) I have.

I assume I'll have to CASE relearn after installing newly flashed PCM(?). Man, I hate banging a motor off the rev limiter... but if that is what the procedure calls for.

I have found that if the software locks up for any reason that requires me to reboot my laptop. Force quitting the software does not work. I suppose I can live with that for now. Really buggy software but perhaps that could be due to my USB adaptor and/or TIS2000 crack.

Also, not finding any sort of Dongle Generator on either of the 2 disks that came with my Tech 2. I thought I might try this route if anyone can help me out there. Thanks.

More work...

 

[Mooseman]

Sorry I don't. The info is buried in that long thread at Saabcentral.

Mine has never locked up. That could also be an issue with the USB interface. I've updated several modules and loaded a PCM using the pass through without a hitch. I'm lucky that I'm a pack rat and kept an old laptop.

Yes, you'll need a CASE relearn.

 

[swede]

I'm using this one, never failed me.

USB -> RS232
Model XS880
From: usconverters.com

 

[Bill Reid]

Thanks guys, I'll see if I can locate another adapter locally before I order one online. I also think the crack is really buggy for my setup due to the constant need to reboot the laptop just to get TIS2000 / SPS to launch. So, I have ordered the disk to make a dongle.
I recently purchased a radio on ebay (GM 15184935) that Matt recommended in another thread I posted - http://gmtnation.com/forums/threads/xm-satellite-in-03-tb.15007/. Purpose is to get a functioning "Band" button so I can install factory XM Sat radio later. The radio powers up (locked). I can see it in the Tech 2 but under BCM/Radio/Special Functions I'm only allowed to pull the data for transfer to TIS2000/SPS. It does not simply give me an option for unlock. When I try to program radio using SPS it gives me an error basically stating my (03 TB) VIN is invalid and that if I want to proceed I need to get a VCI number (only good for my VIN and I assume the radio I'm trying to program). Sound right? Is the only way around this to pay $55 for 2 days on TIS2WEB to obtain a VCI? Just plug the VCI number into my TIS2000 and go? I am wondering if my laptop needs to be on the network with a web browser hooked to TIS2WEB to communicate with TIS2000. Anybody done this?
Thanks,

 

[Bill Reid]

Regarding the benchtop adapter schematic above. Everything works as shown. For the "Battery" power I used a 5 amp fuse. For the "Switched" power I used a 2 amp fuse. The PCM, BCM, and radio powered up together draws 2 amps. Note that the radio is not wired for "Switched" power. So, I think fuse size is OK. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

The incoming power LED is 12volt and I used a 1K Ohm resistor is series with it.

I did get the radio to unlock after messing with TIS2000 and the Tech2. Not sure how I did it but it does work.

I have not tried to program a BCM by itself using these schematics. I'll check to see if it works and report back.

Changing out the USB/Serial adapter to another model did help. TIS2000 still likes to lock up so I will try removing crack and trying a dongle to see if stability continues to improve. Will report back.

Overall, I am very happy with my new benchtop adapter, Tech2, and TIS2000.

 

[FixitTilBroken]

Regarding the benchtop adapter schematic above. Everything works as shown. For the "Battery" power I used a 5 amp fuse. For the "Switched" power I used a 2 amp fuse. The PCM, BCM, and radio powered up together draws 2 amps. Note that the radio is not wired for "Switched" power. So, I think fuse size is OK. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

The incoming power LED is 12volt and I used a 1K Ohm resistor is series with it.

I did get the radio to unlock after messing with TIS2000 and the Tech2. Not sure how I did it but it does work.

I have not tried to program a BCM by itself using these schematics. I'll check to see if it works and report back.

Changing out the USB/Serial adapter to another model did help. TIS2000 still likes to lock up so I will try removing crack and trying a dongle to see if stability continues to improve. Will report back.

Overall, I am very happy with my new benchtop adapter, Tech2, and TIS2000.

Hey Bill

How did everything turn out? I am considering building your invention to support reprogramming a BCM on a benchtop... right now for some crazy crazy crazy reason.. my tech 2 cannot communicate with the BCM in my truck.. it also wont communicate with a new one when it's installed (I know that doesnt logically point at the bcm as the problem but its a long story)

 

[FixitTilBroken]

Regarding the benchtop adapter schematic above. Everything works as shown. For the "Battery" power I used a 5 amp fuse. For the "Switched" power I used a 2 amp fuse. The PCM, BCM, and radio powered up together draws 2 amps. Note that the radio is not wired for "Switched" power. So, I think fuse size is OK. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

The incoming power LED is 12volt and I used a 1K Ohm resistor is series with it.

I did get the radio to unlock after messing with TIS2000 and the Tech2. Not sure how I did it but it does work.

I have not tried to program a BCM by itself using these schematics. I'll check to see if it works and report back.

Changing out the USB/Serial adapter to another model did help. TIS2000 still likes to lock up so I will try removing crack and trying a dongle to see if stability continues to improve. Will report back.

Overall, I am very happy with my new benchtop adapter, Tech2, and TIS2000.

And yes... I'd LOVE a parts list!

 

[Bill Reid]

Hey FITB,

Yes, everything works. The dongle crack mentioned in other TechII posts was the bug (for me) with TIS2000. I wound up buying a USB dongle from AliExpress, reconfigured TIS2000 to see it, and it now works flawlessly.

Here is an incomplete parts list... sorry I made many trips to Frys Electronics (and small Amazon orders) and didn't write down everything as I intended...

For the P10 PCM go to a "You Pull It" junkyard and obtain the Blue and White connectors (with as much pigtail as you can get). Sometimes you can find a used PCM with pigtails on eBay. I did find a cheap used P10 PCM on ebay to use as a spare/test PCM. The OBDII, radio, and BCM connectors (with pigtails) I also got from a you pull it junkyard. I would also check your local craigslist for private parties parting out GMT360's in their backyard. I was surprised to find several local to me although I got the connectors/pigtails from a "Pull-N-Save". At self serve junkyards, at least the ones I frequent, couldn't care less I was butchering harnesses on cars to get the connectors I needed. I pulled out all the pins/wiring for each connector that was not used... cleans it up a bit. You can also Google "Row52" for a local self serve who is in their network.

I started out with a small plastic project box but wound up with a larger aluminum project box. Aluminum project boxes are much easier to work with for drilling/tapping holes. If I had to do it over again I would have gotten a slightly larger (longer) aluminum project box because the one I wound up with would only effectively allow a 6 position terminal block to be mounted on the bottom. I could have used more positions. I have since added a E40 ECM connector for my 06 SWB TB 5.3L. So, its busy in the box. I should have made the box a little more modular. See pic below...



I soldered every connection possible... wiring shrink wrap/protection tidies up the rig.

Doing it over again I would not have used an LED for incoming "Battery" power confirmation. My Power Supply does that for me already. It also further clutters the guts of an already tight project box.

Power Supply - (you don't need something this fancy... but these are useful for other projects/bench circcuit troubleshooting)
Circuit Specialists CSI3005SM Power Supply
(obtained cheap banana test leads at Frys to cut up and use to connect to project box)

Project Box - (Frys Electronics)
Philmore 1590C Hammond Diecast Aluminum Allow Boxes 4.7x3.7x2.0

Terminal Block - (Frys Electronics)
Philmore 6-Pole Dual Row terminal Block. I believe these are 10-32 screws so I obtained some #10 terminals for soldering/securing to terminal block. Try to find terminals for 18-22AWG wiring...

Fuse Holder - (2x) - (Frys Electronics)
NTE Panel Mount Fuse Holder for 5 X 20mm Fuses.

Search Amazon for your choice LED power Switch -
"Round Rocker LED Power Switch"

The connector I used to tee out to the BCM and Radio connectors resembles a microphone jack. I forget the model/part numbers but I obtained these from Fry's. Again, doing it over again I would have used a solder cup serial comm D Sub 9 (or 15 - VGA) connector setup for future expansion + a little more robust. I would have also used a D Sub connector on the PCM/ECM connector side.

Wiring - I used bits and pieces from cut GMT360 harnesses and cut up some different color cheap test leads purchased from Frys to keep track of everything.

For drilling the larger holes in the box I used a Harbor Freight Step Drill bit. They come in sets of 2 and 3. Figure what hole size you need and plan accordingly.

 

[FixitTilBroken]

Awsome Project!! I am thinking about putting one of these together and if I do I will post my project and lessons learned as well. THANKS!!!!!

 

[FixitTilBroken]

Hey FITB,

Yes, everything works. The dongle crack mentioned in other TechII posts was the bug (for me) with TIS2000. I wound up buying a USB dongle from AliExpress, reconfigured TIS2000 to see it, and it now works flawlessly.

Here is an incomplete parts list... sorry I made many trips to Frys Electronics (and small Amazon orders) and didn't write down everything as I intended...

For the P10 PCM go to a "You Pull It" junkyard and obtain the Blue and White connectors (with as much pigtail as you can get). Sometimes you can find a used PCM with pigtails on eBay. I did find a cheap used P10 PCM on ebay to use as a spare/test PCM. The OBDII, radio, and BCM connectors (with pigtails) I also got from a you pull it junkyard. I would also check your local craigslist for private parties parting out GMT360's in their backyard. I was surprised to find several local to me although I got the connectors/pigtails from a "Pull-N-Save". At self serve junkyards, at least the ones I frequent, couldn't care less I was butchering harnesses on cars to get the connectors I needed. I pulled out all the pins/wiring for each connector that was not used... cleans it up a bit. You can also Google "Row52" for a local self serve who is in their network.

I started out with a small plastic project box but wound up with a larger aluminum project box. Aluminum project boxes are much easier to work with for drilling/tapping holes. If I had to do it over again I would have gotten a slightly larger (longer) aluminum project box because the one I wound up with would only effectively allow a 6 position terminal block to be mounted on the bottom. I could have used more positions. I have since added a E40 ECM connector for my 06 SWB TB 5.3L. So, its busy in the box. I should have made the box a little more modular. See pic below...



I soldered every connection possible... wiring shrink wrap/protection tidies up the rig.

Doing it over again I would not have used an LED for incoming "Battery" power confirmation. My Power Supply does that for me already. It also further clutters the guts of an already tight project box.

Power Supply - (you don't need something this fancy... but these are useful for other projects/bench circcuit troubleshooting)
Circuit Specialists CSI3005SM Power Supply
(obtained cheap banana test leads at Frys to cut up and use to connect to project box)

Project Box - (Frys Electronics)
Philmore 1590C Hammond Diecast Aluminum Allow Boxes 4.7x3.7x2.0

Terminal Block - (Frys Electronics)
Philmore 6-Pole Dual Row terminal Block. I believe these are 10-32 screws so I obtained some #10 terminals for soldering/securing to terminal block. Try to find terminals for 18-22AWG wiring...

Fuse Holder - (2x) - (Frys Electronics)
NTE Panel Mount Fuse Holder for 5 X 20mm Fuses.

Search Amazon for your choice LED power Switch -
"Round Rocker LED Power Switch"

The connector I used to tee out to the BCM and Radio connectors resembles a microphone jack. I forget the model/part numbers but I obtained these from Fry's. Again, doing it over again I would have used a solder cup serial comm D Sub 9 (or 15 - VGA) connector setup for future expansion + a little more robust. I would have also used a D Sub connector on the PCM/ECM connector side.

Wiring - I used bits and pieces from cut GMT360 harnesses and cut up some different color cheap test leads purchased from Frys to keep track of everything.

For drilling the larger holes in the box I used a Harbor Freight Step Drill bit. They come in sets of 2 and 3. Figure what hole size you need and plan accordingly.

Also... can you tell me exatcly which version of TIS2000 you have and the dongle... I am having issues with my TIS2000 too and I might need to do what you did and get a dongle instead of the software crack...

 

[Bill Reid]

The dongle came from AliExpress... China's eBay. Just search AliExpress for TIS2000 dongle. You'll get a multitude of auctions. It came on a USB memory stick. I just plugged it in to the laptop, reconfigured TIS2000 software to see it and no more bugginess. My TIS2000 rev is:

North American Operations 07.3
Tech2 Version 27.008
TIS DATA 6.00 2007
TIS2000 GMDAT - 06/2007