Spark plugs. These are the only ones you should use.verles said:
The_Roadie said:
jsheahawk said:
There's an interlock (all described in the Owner's Manual). You have to be in NEUTRAL, not PARK, and rolling less than 3 MPH, to go into or out of 4LO mode.verles said:
verles said:
waz3377 said:
), and with how thin those wires are to the packs it's worth checking out just to give yourself piece of mind at least that that's not the problem.IllogicTC said:Welcome! I'm glad you've made it here from the "Dark Side" as they call it around these parts.
So the p0302 started, so you put that coil to #3 but it still gave a #2 misfire, then you switched it back and now it's gone to p0300? One or more of those coil packs are bad. Are you ensuring you only use ACDelco or Genuine GM coil packs? Some of the rough running is from the misfire, and the p0014 code (likely the CPAS, which I see you've already ordered) is likely to cause some more rough running, or at least it did for me.
I'd say those compression numbers look fairly promising but it seems everyone around here suggests the leakdown test as a better gauge of the system.
The water in coil #4 actually has a TSB about it. Sometimes, since there is no weatherproofing on the back of the meeting point between the hood and the body, in rain (and especially when parked facing downhill) water will run onto the engine and work its way to the coil area, where improperly-seated coil packs can allow some water to migrate in, generally in the area of cylinders 4 and 5. Whenever you have a pack off, it's important to ensure the rubber seal is clean, the metal where the seal contacts is clean (carefully as to not knock dust down into the well), and that the bolt is properly torqued up when you're done.
It also wouldn't hurt to inspect the wiring to the coils. Inspecting is free (and free is good!
waz3377 said:
guess I'm not a metallurgist!)IllogicTC said:It's dark because the admins aren't around to turn on the lights anymore
Fuel injectors are a possibility. As for checking the wiring, I know it's difficult because of the loom they go into and the thin nature makes them a little more delicate. Really what you'd be looking for is anything out of the ordinary, like a nicked wire or a wire with copper bared. But considering switching coils around switched it up to a p0300, I'm kinda leaning coil(s), with fuel injectors getting a little worn not helping anything. You said you have another coil pack already purchased, yes? Replace the #3 coil with the new one and see if it shows back up. If it does, remove the new coil and put it on cylinder #2, putting the original #3 coil back on #3 and see what happens.
If your old cam solenoid looks okay, just clogged up with crap (no oil in the connector, still feels like one piece instead of having the two halves able to spin independently) you may be able to clean it up and hold onto it as a spare part just in case.
IllogicTC said:Addendum:
Could be the plugs, too. Have you changed them? Did you use AC Delco #41-103? They aren't to be gapped when you get them, either. You can double-check gap with an appropriate gauge but it is heavily suggested not to attempt to gap as the iridium coating is fragile (I have no clue how they survive taking miniature explosions in the combustion chamber
And have you been using AC Delco for your coils?
waz3377 said:
That's the same thing mine did when my p0014 came up. The pressing that combines the two halves has failed. Since you've got the part on order or in stock already you should be okay, I've never seen what happens when the unit is left in there until it fails catastrophically but I would imagine it'd be quite the oil show. My part took a few days to show up and it lasted, I guess it just comes loose.IllogicTC said:
Also check my most recent post right above yours for some additional info.
waz3377 said:
BRomanJr said:
waz3377 said:
