New York State inspection fail

[MPB]

Hello everyone,
I have an 06 Trailblazer 4.2 with 96,000 miles that failed NY inspection for readiness on EVAP monitor and O2 monitor, when I scans the truck I’m getting emissions not ready, I’ve driven the truck 60+ miles and it still says not ready when I scan, the only DTC code I’m getting is PCM power control module P0856 traction control torque request circuit, I did disconnect the battery about a month ago when I put a new air-conditioning system in, any idea how many miles or drive cycles this takes before it’ll run emission test or do you think it’s something more serious? I don’t think the P0856 would have anything to do with it but maybe I’m wrong, I got a 10 day temporary inspection but any suggestions or thoughts on it or on the P0856 would be appreciated.

 

[mrrsm]

This Thread from TBSS Forum is Spot On for the P0856 Code:

Electronic Brake control module failure??

www.tbssowners.com

And for the Emissions and Drive Cycle issues...More Help from THIS Link to TBSS:

O2 sensor & Cat readiness monitors NOT READY

www.tbssowners.com

Even if these events at TBSS involve SUVs with V8 Engines...they may point you in the right direction.

 

[MPB]

This Thread from TBSS Forum is Spot On for the P0856 Code:

Electronic Brake control module failure??

www.tbssowners.com

And for the Emissions and Drive Cycle issues...More Help from THIS Link to TBSS:

O2 sensor & Cat readiness monitors NOT READY

www.tbssowners.com

Even if these events at TBSS involve SUVs with V8 Engines...they may point you in the right direction.

I actually forgot that I already did the EBCM ground to the frame clean with no luck, I also re-scanned and found a ignition code in history B2961 key in ignition circuit malfunction, i’m going to try that drive cycle procedure tomorrow listed in that link, I got 10 days to figure this out

 

[Mooseman]

I had the same issue with the Evap not ready in winter. It's the one that always takes the longest. Doesn't NY allow for one I/M not ready to pass? Ontario used to when we had E-testing as they knew that evap is always the hardest and longest to complete. As long as it had no codes, it was good to pass.

However, I did have an instance where I had two that wouldn't complete (evap and O2 sensors). I was able to do the evap procedure using the Tech 2 following the on-screen instructions. It did pass with only the O2 not ready. If you know someone with a Tech 2 or other advanced scanner, it could also be done that way.

 

[northcreek]

I had the same issue with the Evap not ready in winter. It's the one that always takes the longest. Doesn't NY allow for one I/M not ready to pass?

Mine seemed to take forever to reset, NYS does give you one freebe monitor.
Don't do an erase with the scanner as it starts the process all over again.
FOUND THIS :
Can you pass emissions with one monitor not ready?
For vehicles year model 2001 and newer, we allow one (1) non-continuous monitor to be "Not Ready" and still pass the test, but two (2) or more "Not Ready" readings will cause the vehicle to fail.

 

[MPB]

I had the same issue with the Evap not ready in winter. It's the one that always takes the longest. Doesn't NY allow for one I/M not ready to pass? Ontario used to when we had E-testing as they knew that evap is always the hardest and longest to complete. As long as it had no codes, it was good to pass.

However, I did have an instance where I had two that wouldn't complete (evap and O2 sensors). I was able to do the evap procedure using the Tech 2 following the on-screen instructions. It did pass with only the O2 not ready. If you know someone with a Tech 2 or other advanced scanner, it could also be done that way.

Yeah that’s exactly what I have 2 of them, EVAP and O2 sensor monitors, if I had just the one it would’ve passed, unfortunately I don’t have a Tech 2 scanner just the Zürich dongle, it’s also not turning on the CEL Light, I did have a B2610 dimmer switch, B2961 key ignition malfunction circuit and a P0856 traction control torque request circuit when I scanned it yesterday, I just drove it 20 miles today and scanned it again and only got the B2610 in history, that was a dashboard oil gauge light short. I guess I’m gonna just keep driving it and hope it becomes ready before my nine day temporary inspection expires.

 

[MPB]

This Thread from TBSS Forum is Spot On for the P0856 Code:

Electronic Brake control module failure??

www.tbssowners.com

And for the Emissions and Drive Cycle issues...More Help from THIS Link to TBSS:

O2 sensor & Cat readiness monitors NOT READY

www.tbssowners.com

Even if these events at TBSS involve SUVs with V8 Engines...they may point you in the right direction.

This Thread from TBSS Forum is Spot On for the P0856 Code:

Electronic Brake control module failure??

www.tbssowners.com

And for the Emissions and Drive Cycle issues...More Help from THIS Link to TBSS:

O2 sensor & Cat readiness monitors NOT READY

www.tbssowners.com

Even if these events at TBSS involve SUVs with V8 Engines...they may point you in the right direction.

On that link for O2 sensors you posted it would be nice if what DB-guru posted about performing a drive Cycle could done with the back tires jacked up in the air, it’s kinda hard to do that on the expressway. Lol

 

[MPB]

I had the same issue with the Evap not ready in winter. It's the one that always takes the longest. Doesn't NY allow for one I/M not ready to pass? Ontario used to when we had E-testing as they knew that evap is always the hardest and longest to complete. As long as it had no codes, it was good to pass.

However, I did have an instance where I had two that wouldn't complete (evap and O2 sensors). I was able to do the evap procedure using the Tech 2 following the on-screen instructions. It did pass with only the O2 not ready. If you know someone with a Tech 2 or other advanced scanner, it could also be done that way.

Well I tried to run a drive cycle tonight, I turned on the AC, rear defog and heated seats while it idled for three minutes on a expressway on ramp, after that I romped on it up the ramp and onto the expressway up to 60 miles an hour for about 10 miles, jumped off the expressway into my neighborhood and did some stopping and going imitating city driving for about 30 minutes, when I got home I scanned it and finally presto! O2 monitor complete, EVAP monitor failed. Should be able to pass now but I have a feeling the EVAP is gonna take a while to complete, I took out the battery at the end of the summer when I put a complete new AC system in, I won’t make that mistake again by not using a memory saver. Thanks for your help

 

[mrrsm]

Time to Inspect the Two EVAP Sensors (One on the Engine Block and One at the EVAP Cannister) for any Leaks and Check out the condition of the Steel Pipe leading from the Underside of the Fuel Fill Opening under the Left Rear Fender Well up to the Rubber Intermediate Hose... for any signs of Rust Through in that Pipe. Pull the Electrical or Tube Connectors off BOTH EVAP System Sensors...and Re-Plug them back in and see if these actions have any positive outcome during a follow up Test Drive.

 

[AmpOverload]

Sounds like it's a moot point now that your O2 monitor is passing, but since I already wrote this up, I'll post it, in case it helps (either now or for some future thread reader)...

Disclaimer: I test more on GM cars than I do on GM trucks, but the conditions for 'evap readiness' and the way the evap system testing works seems to typically apply equally to both.

For the evap readiness monitor, on a GM vehicle, I would expect it to run without having to use the GM "Drive Cycle". Basically, it should start to run within a few minutes (3-4 in my experience) of starting the vehicle as long as all the pre-requisite conditions are met. These were outlined in the post that 'Branndonw' made in the thread that @mrrsm referred you to. Basically, these are the conditions for a 2006 Chevy TrailBlazer:

1. The barometric pressure (BARO) is more than 74 kPa.
2. The fuel level is between 1/4 and 3/4 full.
3. The battery voltage is between 11-18 volts.
4. The test will initiate only after a cold start. The control module considers the engine to be cold if the following conditions are met:
   • The engine coolant temperature (ECT) is between 39-86 degF.
   • The intake air temperature (IAT) is between 39-86 degF.
   • The difference between the ECT and the IAT is less than 14 degF.

If your evap monitor is never starting or never running to completion, then you'd want to determine which of those conditions are not being met. Bear in mind that a faulty fuel gauge reading is a common problem that can prevent the evap monitor from running. That's why it's sometimes wise to let the evap test run before driving away, simply by letting the vehicle idle after starting it, because faulty fuel gauges are often OK when the vehicle isn't moving.

For the 1st start of a new day, I would try turning off all accessories (heat, A/C, radio, etc) then starting the vehicle. Wait about 7 minutes before moving it. If the evap monitor does not run to completion, then I'd be looking into why it didn't by checking each of the pre-requisite conditions.

unfortunately I don’t have a Tech 2 scanner just the Zürich dongle

Which Zurich scantool do you have? ZR4? ZR13? Other? There are ways to better monitor the evap system's running and the test results, but I don't think the ZR4 or ZR13 will do it, because I don't think they allow custom PIDs.

EDIT: Fix minor spelling error.

 

[Mooseman]

Time to Inspect the Two EVAP Sensors (One on the Engine Block and One at the EVAP Cannister) for any Leaks and Check out the condition of the Steel Pipe leading from the Underside of the Fuel Fill Opening under the Left Rear Fender Well up to the Rubber Intermediate Hose... for any signs of Rust Through in that Pipe. Pull the Electrical or Tube Connectors off BOTH EVAP System Sensors...and Re-Plug them back in and see if these actions have any positive outcome during a follow up Test Drive.

I don't think it's an issue with the system itself. It's just difficult to complete in winter time. Just this condition for the test to complete The intake air temperature (IAT) is between 39-86 degF. is difficult to attain in winter. And gas isn't as volatile in the cold so the pressure sensor may not sense enough change in pressure when the system is closed. That's why they give the pass with one monitor not ready.

 

[AmpOverload]

I don't think it's an issue with the system itself.

I suspect as much. IMHO, it's premature to be doing any further diagnosis of the evap system until the evap monitor attains completion. Once it completes, you should have a better idea of whether there is something truly wrong with the evap system or if it just hasn't had a chance to run the test.

In fact, it would be wise to pass inspection now, before you get the evap monitor to complete. Because when it completes, it might set a DTC which would now prevent you from passing the emission test!