New Serp belt, but still getting noise...

Voymom

Original poster
Member
Feb 3, 2012
2,523
I bought a new serpentine belt and had it put on last Monday. This morning though every time I get on the gas the belt squeaks. And it squeaks at initial start up.

Could the belt be too big or too small? I know people have had issues getting the correct size belt from places like Autozone, I got my belt at O'Reilly's. Hubby said it did look slightly longer than the original belt but shouldn't make to much of a difference as it didn't appear to be off by much. Any way to fix the squeal? And should I go get a different belt? I'm not even sure if the original belt it came with was the correct size? It has been wet out in the AM due to frost and crap, would that make a difference? I have never had a squeaky belt on any of my vehicles before.


Thanks
 

neelskit

Member
Dec 7, 2011
69
You have an XL, so you need the shorter belt. The longer belt is for the SWB models because the XL/EXT trucks have a larger Power Steering Pulley. I would urge you NOT to leave the long belt on.
 

Voymom

Original poster
Member
Feb 3, 2012
2,523
neelskit said:
You have an XL, so you need the shorter belt. The longer belt is for the SWB models because the XL/EXT trucks have a larger Power Steering Pulley. I would urge you NOT to leave the long belt on.

Thanks neelskit, What size do I go with? I know they looked at the ALT to gauge the size. What could happen if the belt was left on? I don't plan on leaving it on lol I'm just curious.
 

neelskit

Member
Dec 7, 2011
69
Voymom said:
Thanks neelskit, What size do I go with? I know they looked at the ALT to gauge the size. What could happen if the belt was left on? I don't plan on leaving it on lol I'm just curious.

You need the 90 7/8" (2308mm) belt. If you leave the long belt on, you run a high risk of the belt slipping off and causing damage to the fan/shroud. Not to mention you would loose power to everything on the belt drive- water pump, ALT, power steering, etc. leaving you stranded waiting for a tow truck. :no:
 

BRomanJr

Member
Dec 9, 2011
371
neelskit said:
You have an XL, so you need the shorter belt. The longer belt is for the SWB models because the XL/EXT trucks have a larger Power Steering Pulley. I would urge you NOT to leave the long belt on.

Actually you are mostly correct, the XL/EXT trucks have a SMALLER PS pulley, hence a shorter belt.

The parts sites want you to know the Alternator size, but that is not the factor that matters, just SWB or LWB.
 

neelskit

Member
Dec 7, 2011
69
BRomanJr said:
Actually you are mostly correct, the XL/EXT trucks have a SMALLER PS pulley, hence a shorter belt.

My mistake. I meant to say the SWB has a larger pulley. That's what happens when you don't proof-read! :redface:
 

Voymom

Original poster
Member
Feb 3, 2012
2,523
Got the smaller belt, the 90 7/8 and put it on about an hour ago! Thanks everyone for the help!!
 

STLtrailbSS

Member
Dec 4, 2011
1,617
If your still having a noise check your belt tensioner pulley I have had the bearings in those go out twice and they give off a very annoying squeal/chirp when bad.
 

Voymom

Original poster
Member
Feb 3, 2012
2,523
Well after driving around for a while I haven't heard any belt noise like I did with the bad belt and the one that was to big. BUT the ultimate test will be in the morning when it has gotten wet. The pulley looks fine. I'm getting frustrated however, because I just can't for the life of me figure out WHY I am having issues with it getting up and going?? Some days he will haul ass at the drop of a dime, and days like today he just seems sluggish and powerless. I'm not throwing any codes, got a blow back test done...I think thats what it's called so not cat converter clog or exhaust clogs either. I DO need to clean the throttle body, but I need to wait until I have a dry place to do it, I bet it has NEVER seen a throttle body clean. Other than that I really don't know why he is so blah and sleepy. My temp seems a little on the rich side, runs about 180 MAYBE 200 but never gets to the 210, although it has been cold lately. I also have been hearing a clunk noise in the passenger front when hitting a bump...wheel bearing maybe? I have to get it up on jack stands soon as I go in for surgery in a week and will be out for 6-8 weeks.

So much to do and so little time, I hate slacking on these things because he is my daily driver, at least until my husband can get his car going. I can do a lot of this stuff on my own, I have the book and of course GMT and youtube videos, it just starts getting difficult when you need a lot more muscle than I can give :redface:
 

jrSS

Member
Dec 4, 2011
3,950
Wheel clunk hitting a bump is proly a bad strut. A bad wheel bearing will have an annoying hum drone noise, and usually will get worse turning one way or the other.
 

jrSS

Member
Dec 4, 2011
3,950
As for a dirty tb...usually it'll be a rough idle and will throw a code. (Not sure which code)
 

Voymom

Original poster
Member
Feb 3, 2012
2,523
Hmm...All I know is that there are mornings when I first start him up he sounds like a damn jet or a diesel. Very loud. Then there is the fan clutch, which I am trying NOT to fix out of pocket as the stealership will pay when it goes out completely. The fan still turns. I will have to get a video in the morning of a cold start, my neighbor hates it because he is so loud and wakes her up(Im in a townhouse).

It just seems like I'm not getting any power at all sometimes. I was getting the ass in seat power at 4k rpm but sometimes no matter what the rpm's are or how hard I slam into him, he refuses to go. Very stubborn, and I am losing patience and may end up spending the $350 for a diagnostic at the stealership...just to be lied to because I'm a woman. Uhg!

The struts aren't a big deal. I can fix that, obviously with hubby's help lol but it's not like I have to sit there for an hour bashing my head off the dashboard trying to figure out what it is lol. We planned on new brakes, rotors, struts anyways. I just wish this truck would MOVE like he did when I test drove him. We did sea foam btw too.
 

Wooluf1952

Member
Nov 20, 2011
2,663
Milwaukee, Wisconsin
Voymom said:
Well after driving around for a while I haven't heard any belt noise like I did with the bad belt and the one that was to big. BUT the ultimate test will be in the morning when it has gotten wet. The pulley looks fine. I'm getting frustrated however, because I just can't for the life of me figure out WHY I am having issues with it getting up and going?? Some days he will haul ass at the drop of a dime, and days like today he just seems sluggish and powerless. I'm not throwing any codes, got a blow back test done...I think thats what it's called so not cat converter clog or exhaust clogs either. I DO need to clean the throttle body, but I need to wait until I have a dry place to do it, I bet it has NEVER seen a throttle body clean. Other than that I really don't know why he is so blah and sleepy. My temp seems a little on the rich side, runs about 180 MAYBE 200 but never gets to the 210, although it has been cold lately. I also have been hearing a clunk noise in the passenger front when hitting a bump...wheel bearing maybe? I have to get it up on jack stands soon as I go in for surgery in a week and will be out for 6-8 weeks.

So much to do and so little time, I hate slacking on these things because he is my daily driver, at least until my husband can get his car going. I can do a lot of this stuff on my own, I have the book and of course GMT and youtube videos, it just starts getting difficult when you need a lot more muscle than I can give :redface:

That is probably why you are only getting 10 mpg's.
A new thermostat is in your future.
 

Wooluf1952

Member
Nov 20, 2011
2,663
Milwaukee, Wisconsin
Voymom said:
Hmm...All I know is that there are mornings when I first start him up he sounds like a damn jet or a diesel. Very loud. Then there is the fan clutch, which I am trying NOT to fix out of pocket as the stealership will pay when it goes out completely. The fan still turns. I will have to get a video in the morning of a cold start, my neighbor hates it because he is so loud and wakes her up(Im in a townhouse).

It just seems like I'm not getting any power at all sometimes. I was getting the ass in seat power at 4k rpm but sometimes no matter what the rpm's are or how hard I slam into him, he refuses to go. Very stubborn, and I am losing patience and may end up spending the $350 for a diagnostic at the stealership...just to be lied to because I'm a woman. Uhg!

The struts aren't a big deal. I can fix that, obviously with hubby's help lol but it's not like I have to sit there for an hour bashing my head off the dashboard trying to figure out what it is lol. We planned on new brakes, rotors, struts anyways. I just wish this truck would MOVE like he did when I test drove him. We did sea foam btw too.


If the roaring only lasts for a few minutes, that is normal.
When they fail, it is usually a constant roar. They don't stop spinning.
 

Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,846
Running rich can also make it doggish too I would think.
 

Voymom

Original poster
Member
Feb 3, 2012
2,523
To me it's constant. The hubby said the roar is because of the RPM's being 1500 at start up and is the engine just adjusting. He battles me a lot on this stuff. But that is his answer. I think it's the fan clutch.
Wooluf1952 said:
If the roaring only lasts for a few minutes, that is normal.
When they fail, it is usually a constant roar. They don't stop spinning.

Wooluf1952 said:
That is probably why you are only getting 10 mpg's.
A new thermostat is in your future.

As far as the thermostat goes, the hubby REALLY battles me on this. He said if they have a 180-185 thermostat then it is doing it's job by not allowing it to get to 210 or close to 200?

This sucks a lot. This is why I am partly losing it. There are all these possibilities as to why my truck is a damn snail on the road, but no matter what option I throw in the air...I am always wrong, and it's never the issue I suggest. I don't see WHY we can't just do something to see if it fixes the issue instead of not doing anything at all. Something has to give, or I will be making him pay $$$$ to have the stealership do a complete break down and rebuild :smile:
 

Voymom

Original poster
Member
Feb 3, 2012
2,523
Pic of Thermostat/Temp

Running and being driven HARD

IMG_20120207_150235.jpg


IMG_20120207_151649.jpg


The bottom picture is the absolute highest is has ever ran since I have had it. I am NOT easy on my trucks at all. I drive them pretty hard. The top pic is after driving for 10min and then just sitting in a parking lot with the engine going.
 

Wooluf1952

Member
Nov 20, 2011
2,663
Milwaukee, Wisconsin
Voymom said:
Pic of Thermostat/Temp

Running and being driven HARD

IMG_20120207_150235.jpg


IMG_20120207_151649.jpg


The bottom picture is the absolute highest is has ever ran since I have had it. I am NOT easy on my trucks at all. I drive them pretty hard. The top pic is after driving for 10min and then just sitting in a parking lot with the engine going.

The temp gauge is not accurate. It is a fancy idiot light.
That reading is closer to 160*.
The t-stat is toast. You need a new one.
 

Voymom

Original poster
Member
Feb 3, 2012
2,523
Wooluf1952 said:
The temp gauge is not acurite. That reading is closer to 160*.
The t-stat is toast. You need a new one.

With that being said, do I need to remove the ALT to change it? The list just keeps adding up. Now wouldn't the t-stat throw a code when it takes a crap?
This is all new for me, my rendezvous ran HOT lol over 210 and hubby said it was normal too.

I thank you very much for the info, although it isn't exactly what I wanted to hear lol. Could the crappy thermostat cause any major issues if it isn't changed right away? I'm not sure how long it has been driven like this for. I have had it for 3 weeks.

Now, What type 160/190 t-stat to get? O Reilly's is less than a mile down the road, all they have that they can order are 190 t-stats.

My husband asks, if the gauge is not accurate as it is an idiot light, how can you say the engine is running closer to 160* and the t-stat is toast?
 

Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,846
Holy crap that is probably the lowest I've seen one of those gauges at. That is really bad!

Explain to your husband that the gauge is reading closer to 160, so the 190 degree t-stat is most definitely not doing its job and is stuck wide open. Eventually it'll throw a code, but not right away. Some have had it never throw a code oddly enough.

Two (maybe three) things will happen when running on a stuck stat - your mpg will suck (as you've noticed), your performance can suck a bit (due to running on "safe" parameters since the vehicle will be in open loop and not using O2 sensor input), and if you go long enough it can result in clogging up the catalytic converter due to running so rich constantly.

The only tstat to get is a 190 degree.

As far as the roar, if it roars at startup for a min or two, but then calms down after that and doesn't roar every time you push the gas, then the clutch is OK. Roaring at cold startup isn't abnormal as long as it goes away after a short while. Mine does this quite often. It has to do with the way the viscous goo inside the clutch works and how it can pool inside when sitting for a little while. It can take it a bit to flow back where it belongs when first started up. Now if it keeps roaring even after 10 minutes for example, then it is bad.
 

christo829

Supporting Donor
Member
Dec 7, 2011
462
Fairfax, Virginia
You're running too cold. That gauge should be sitting right about 210. Running cold makes the PCM
adjust the mixture rich, and also adjusts shift points in an attempt to make the truck warm up faster.
Annoyingly enough, it won't always throw a code, so it's easy to think it's OK, or at least within spec.
The PCM is pretty much set to consider the optimal engine operating temp to be about 210.

The gauge may be mostly an idiot light, but the PCM tells it to sit around 210 when things are operating
properly, Seeing something less than that, statistically, is representative of a failing thermostat. The
next possibility is that it's the coolant temperature sensor, but that usually shows up as erratic behavior,
more than just sitting at one temp.

When mine was running cold, it was a lot more sluggish, and shifted like the trans was on the way
out if I put my foot in it. Once I swapped the thermostat, things got much better... :wink:

You might be able to get away with loosening the alternator, but be prepared to have to take the stupid
thing almost completely off. Some people have apparently managed to get the thermostat changed without
taking the alternator off, but that was apparently beyond my ability to contort my arms in to the correct position
when I changed mine.

On top of that, the power band on these trucks is around 2500 rpm, so if it's already less responsive
because of the temperature, it really won't want to get up and go until it gets kicked up to 2500.

The noise when you hit a bump could be strut, as others have mentioned. If it's a lighter rattle, it could be
a sway bar linkage.

A brief roar when you first start the truck on a cold morning is fairly normal. If it persists after rpms have dropped
to around 600-1000, that fan clutch may well be on the way out.

If you're hearing a diesel-like clatter when you first start it in the morning/cold, that could be part of the "anti-carbon"
knock, and is pretty normal. If it doesn't go away as the engine warms up, that's not normal.

Good Luck!

Chris
 

Voymom

Original poster
Member
Feb 3, 2012
2,523
Sparky said:
Holy crap that is probably the lowest I've seen one of those gauges at. That is really bad!

Explain to your husband that the gauge is reading closer to 160, so the 190 degree t-stat is most definitely not doing its job and is stuck wide open. Eventually it'll throw a code, but not right away. Some have had it never throw a code oddly enough.

Two (maybe three) things will happen when running on a stuck stat - your mpg will suck (as you've noticed), your performance can suck a bit (due to running on "safe" parameters since the vehicle will be in open loop and not using O2 sensor input), and if you go long enough it can result in clogging up the catalytic converter due to running so rich constantly.

The only tstat to get is a 190 degree.

As far as the roar, if it roars at startup for a min or two, but then calms down after that and doesn't roar every time you push the gas, then the clutch is OK. Roaring at cold startup isn't abnormal as long as it goes away after a short while. Mine does this quite often. It has to do with the way the viscous goo inside the clutch works and how it can pool inside when sitting for a little while. It can take it a bit to flow back where it belongs when first started up. Now if it keeps roaring even after 10 minutes for example, then it is bad.

My husband is assuming that the t-stat in the truck is a 160 and if it is then it is running fine. We are not sure what is in the truck a 160/190. Also, we have a ticking from the fan clutch which I am assuming is the fan clutch going out. Hubby READ that the standard temp is 192 for the Envoy, but hubby says the alternate temp is 160, so it may have a 160 t-stat in it.
 

Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,846
I've never heard of a 160 degree stat for these trucks. Even if there was one, it would be aftermarket, and without a proper tune for that temp of t-stat the engine will never reach closed loop and will have issues.

If the fan clutch is ticking, it may be going out (eventually) or it may just need the PCM update to stop the tick. I could be wrong but I don't think the tick is harmful in of itself. If it were me, I'd fix the tstat issue and ignore the clutch tick until it gets stuck in jet engine mode before I mess with it.
 

christo829

Supporting Donor
Member
Dec 7, 2011
462
Fairfax, Virginia
Voymom said:
My husband is assuming that the t-stat in the truck is a 160 and if it is then it is running fine. We are not sure what is in the truck a 160/190. Also, we have a ticking from the fan clutch which I am assuming is the fan clutch going out. Hubby READ that the standard temp is 192 for the Envoy, but hubby says the alternate temp is 160, so it may have a 160 t-stat in it.

While it's possible to get a 160 thermostat for these trucks, it isn't the correct one, and as opposed to older vehicles that could be made
to run better with a cooler thermostat, the computers in these trucks do not like cooler thermostats (unless, as has already been pointed out,
you have an aftermarket tune). The spec on these is 190-192. The supposed alternative thermostat isn't really, and if it stays in for too
long (like months), the rich mixture could eventually lead to a clogged cat.

I keep hoping someone will explain where that 160 thermostat spec came from, because it isn't listed in the Helm shop manuals, and
only seems to come up in parts store catalogs, much like the listing for different alternators, when our trucks only came with one type.

Cheers-

Chris
 

Voymom

Original poster
Member
Feb 3, 2012
2,523
Sparky said:
I've never heard of a 160 degree stat for these trucks. Even if there was one, it would be aftermarket, and without a proper tune for that temp of t-stat the engine will never reach closed loop and will have issues.

If the fan clutch is ticking, it may be going out (eventually) or it may just need the PCM update to stop the tick. I could be wrong but I don't think the tick is harmful in of itself. If it were me, I'd fix the tstat issue and ignore the clutch tick until it gets stuck in jet engine mode before I mess with it.

If you look at Home Page | O'Reilly Auto Parts they have 2 listed for the envoy a 160 degree t-stat and a 192 degree which is standard apparently. I'm not to concerned about the fan clutch as of now. Apparently that is least of my issues. On this topic, anyone ever use the quick struts? You install them right to the truck, hit a bump which causes it to practically explode something lol to make the struts engage. Those were also on ebay and o reilly's has them too. Just curious if anyone has used them.

It's called the Monroe quick strut strut assembly.
Will a bad cat or clogged cat converter throw a code? Apparently it's fine, but I don't know how well the mechanic tested it. I think after the t-stat is changed I will have it retested. And I WILL be changing the t-stat out this weekend! Now O reillys has a 192 and advance auto has a 190 t-stat. DO I buy the 192 or is there a different one? I want to make sure I get the correct t-stat.

I have to say, I am SO happy I have you guys and GMT, if it were not for you and this forum I would be murdering my truck. Thank you all SO much!! And I really owe you all!!!
 

Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,846
190 or 192, doesn't really matter there I don't think. End result is about the same. The stats probably have a 2 degree tolerance in them anyway.

Clogged cats don't usually throw a code but the vehicle will run like crap because it won't be able to breathe.

Quick struts sure do make it easier as you don't have to compress the springs. The only concern is I'm not sure what the spring rate on those is. These trucks had like half a million variations of spring rates for the front end. Well, OK, maybe not that many :tongue: I personally just went with getting new front shocks and upper mounts and transferring my springs over. It was a little more work for sure (especially as all I have is hand tools) but it wasn't too bad I guess. Barring that, many shops will swap the spring over to the new shock and mount for not too much.
 

Voymom

Original poster
Member
Feb 3, 2012
2,523
Sparky said:
190 or 192, doesn't really matter there I don't think. End result is about the same. The stats probably have a 2 degree tolerance in them anyway.

Clogged cats don't usually throw a code but the vehicle will run like crap because it won't be able to breathe.

Quick struts sure do make it easier as you don't have to compress the springs. The only concern is I'm not sure what the spring rate on those is. These trucks had like half a million variations of spring rates for the front end. Well, OK, maybe not that many :tongue: I personally just went with getting new front shocks and upper mounts and transferring my springs over. It was a little more work for sure (especially as all I have is hand tools) but it wasn't too bad I guess. Barring that, many shops will swap the spring over to the new shock and mount for not too much.

Springs and struts have to be done at a mechanics as we only have small hand tools as well, and it's a bit to dangerous for my liking. I would buy all my parts however, and just have them do the labor, it's a BIT cheaper that way. I would carry over my old springs but for the price $123 for spring and strut compared to just the strut at $113 I rather just get the set. I will more than likely do my brakes, pads(ceramic) and maybe rotors.

Hubby said if there is a clog, he heard of putting a hole in the cat, banging all the crap out of it making it hollow inside, and then you dont have to worry about it clogging up again lol. He said it may be a bit louder but it shouldn't hurt anything:confused: He doesn't want to spend the $285 for a new cat :crazy: I have taxes coming in soon, so I am trying to get everything on a list. I would like to get the grunt work done in the next 8 days as I have Surgery and will be out for quite a while. I'm picky about people touching the truck when I cant be there to watch and ask a million questions:biggrin:
 

Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,846
The only issue as mentioned with doing that is the spring rate. If it is similar then it won't matter, but if the quickstruts have a softer spring then the nose will sit lower. Maybe someone knows what the rate is on those quick struts, I really don't know.

What your husband said is true, You can knock out the guts of the cat to make it flow again. However, if you do that, it will then throw a code for a non-functional cat, your exhaust will smell a little more, and if you have e-check you'll never pass. At this point, since it passed the back pressure test, it should be fine, so don't worry about it.
 

gmcman

Member
Dec 12, 2011
4,614
I just went through the same issue with my coolant temp, however i'm not 100% it was the stat but I changed it anyway since I wanted to flush the old coolant out.

I had replaced the thermostat and I still had the same gauge readings as you. My mistake was not replacing the temp sensor when I changed the stat...would have made it alot easier. I went back and changed the temp sensor and the gauge reads normal now, keep in mind if the stat is opening as it should at 195, the ECM will still think it's cold if the sensor is bad giving you a rich mix.

Also, I want to point out that 210 is not 195 in which the stat opens at. If the gauge reads a tick under 210 that doesn't mean something is wrong, from the drivers seat it will appear to be at 210, move your head in front of the gauge and it may be just a needle width under. Just something I want to mention since I read alot of posts on that if the temp gauge isn't straight up something is wrong.

My fan sounds like a jet on some mornings and this will happen when you shut the engine down and it wants to activate the fan. You need RPM's to spin the fluid back out of the clutch to slow it down and unfortunately it's when i'm leaving my neighborhood scaring the dogs...:biggrin:


Also, if you try to get on it right near the end of the 1-2 shift it will only go to 2nd and drag awhile until you get to around 50-55. Not sure if this is the case with you but I have experienced some sluggish accelerations at times as well. Could be bad gas and the knock sensors removing alot of timing to compensate, resulting in a bog-like state.
 

davenay67

Member
Jan 16, 2012
217
Voymom said:
I also have been hearing a clunk noise in the passenger front when hitting a bump...wheel bearing maybe? I have to get it up on jack stands soon as I go in for surgery in a week and will be out for 6-8 weeks.

Had the exact same thing....it was my sway links that had gone bad. Cheap and easy to fix. :smile: I would check these first before diving into more complex solutions....

Dave. :smile:
 

Voymom

Original poster
Member
Feb 3, 2012
2,523
davenay67 said:
Had the exact same thing....it was my sway links that had gone bad. Cheap and easy to fix. :smile: I would check these first before diving into more complex solutions....

Dave. :smile:

The clunking doesn't happen every time. Plus I take some pretty mean turns/curves that most people wouldn't in an Envoy lol and it feels fine and stable. I heard with the sway bar links the truck wouldn't feel stabilized on turns or curves.
 

davenay67

Member
Jan 16, 2012
217
Voymom said:
The clunking doesn't happen every time. Plus I take some pretty mean turns/curves that most people wouldn't in an Envoy lol and it feels fine and stable. I heard with the sway bar links the truck wouldn't feel stabilized on turns or curves.

The sway bar is still working in the corners, even with the loose linkages. The noise you are hearing is (possibly) the play in the linkages when asking to make 2 ditinct directions changes very quickly. i.e. the compression rebound of the wheel going over a bump. Just saying....check these first as they are known to be weak areas on these vehicles, plus they are the quickest and easiest to check also.

FWIW....comparing apples to oranges here, but my Jeep TJ is lifted by 3" and I have removed the sway bar altogether....can't even tell the diifference from stock height with a sway bar....
 

Wyle

Member
Dec 4, 2011
200
Voymom said:
The clunking doesn't happen every time. Plus I take some pretty mean turns/curves that most people wouldn't in an Envoy lol and it feels fine and stable. I heard with the sway bar links the truck wouldn't feel stabilized on turns or curves.

In a turn/curve, the body pulls up on one sway link and pushes down on the other, twisting the sway bar. With load held on the links, they won't clunk. When you bounce over a bump, both links push up or down and the bar rotates in the bushings. Worn links with play will clunk when they switch between pushing and pulling as you bounce.
 

Wyle

Member
Dec 4, 2011
200
Wooluf1952 said:
The temp gauge is not accurate. It is a fancy idiot light.
That reading is closer to 160*.
The t-stat is toast. You need a new one.

IIRC, the oil pressure is the fancy idiot light. The coolant temp is a measured value. The scale on the dash gauge is not linear, though. That is, the first 10 tick marks go from 100 to 210 (110 degrees) while the last 10 marks go from 210 to 260. Since the gauge is computer controlled, it can still be accurate, we just don't know exactly how much each mark represents.

Side note: being anal about numbers, I fit an equation to the gauge. The values would be 100, 114, 127, 139, 151, 163, 173, 183, 193, 202, 210, 218, 225, 231, 237, 243, 247, 251, 255, 258, 260. 14 degree increment at the cold end, 8 degree in the middle, 2-3 degree at the hot end (guess they want to get your attention with lots of needle travel).

Based on your pics, I'd say you were running between 170 and 190. My temp gets up to 210 after 2-3 miles of driving.

As for 160 degree T-stats, I believe they SS guys run those for racing to keep the coolant temp near 210. For standard use, a 190/195 Tstat is the right one. 210 is a reasonable operating temp for a 190/195 because it won't even start to cool until the T-stat opens.

:iagree: Your T-stat needs replacing. I did mine through the wheel well and left the alternator on (I'm lazy). Toughest part was getting the bolts back in and started.
 

Wooluf1952

Member
Nov 20, 2011
2,663
Milwaukee, Wisconsin
Wyle said:
IIRC, the oil pressure is the fancy idiot light. The coolant temp is a measured value. The scale on the dash gauge is not linear, though. .


:redface: You are correct.
 

Voymom

Original poster
Member
Feb 3, 2012
2,523
The clunking has gotten worse :sadcry: It clunks ONLY when making right hand turns, and is on the front passenger side. It NEVER clunks making a left hand turn and only clunks a little bit when going over a bump.

We are considering changing the outter tie rods. I need to get the truck jacked up so I can also check the wheel bearings for schmits and giggles :biggrin:
 

Wooluf1952

Member
Nov 20, 2011
2,663
Milwaukee, Wisconsin
If you jack-up the front and let the tires hang, it puts pressure on the sway bar and you won't be able to get the end-links to make noise.
The best way to check them, IMO, is reach under a try to shake the hell out of the end-links. If they're bad, you'll hear the metal on metal clanking.
If you need more room, use ramps.
 

gmcman

Member
Dec 12, 2011
4,614
Grab the top of the tire and pull on it and check the upper ball joint for play as well.
 

Voymom

Original poster
Member
Feb 3, 2012
2,523
Thanks Wooluf and gmcman for all your help!! I'm going to try and see if the hubby will do a quick check tonight after the hockey game. We are supposed to be getting about 3 inches of snow tomorrow. It's going to BITE changing all these parts in the snow, that's for sure. I can't wait for it to warm up so I can get everything done that needs to be done.

We haven't gone anywhere all weekend, so we really didn't do much to the truck:redface:
 

Forum Statistics

Threads
22,609
Posts
629,153
Members
17,312
Latest member
trailblazedout

Members Online