MULTIPLE MIL CODES...dont know where to go with it...

mrjean

Original poster
Member
Jul 15, 2012
110
multiple mil codes...dont even know where to start

so while driving my 02 tb ext lt threw a check engine soon...went to autozone and used their machine to read the codes...they have the fancy one that gives me the whole history of the codes the car has ever had.
here is the whole list.
h=history (guessing it was on at some point)
c=confirmed (unless otherwise stated)
P=forgot what it stood for. could be present

the ones im worried about are highlighter in BOLD. any input?
just reading a few of the codes im seeing downstream o2 sensor and camshaft position sensor. however some other codes (after reading the forum) i see vent solenoid as well as possible camshaft position actuation (or variable valve timing solenoid). car was up on the lift yesterday and i noticed a bit of oil around the pan to the driver side. did not look like it was coming from the bolt. i havent really noticed any rough idling. the car does seem a bit sluggish to pick up speed.

could someone please also let me know if you see something with the pcm? thanks

U1000 h
C0321 h
C0327 h
B0770 h
B0775 h
B0780 h
B0790 h
P0138 intermittent
P0440 current hist mil

P0014 h
P1345 h
P0440 c
P0014 c
P1345 c
P0440 p
 

The_Roadie

Lifetime VIP Donor
Member
Nov 19, 2011
9,957
Portland, OR
Hiya!

P is "pending" meaning a code that was active in the past, but which is trying to go away after sufficient drive cycles happen without the code. Depending on the code, this could be 3 to 5 successful drive cycles. (Start, drive above some speed, get warm for enough time, stop, cool off for enough time).

CPAS is a good first step. Been discussed a lot here and on trailvoy, where we all came from.

How many miles, what's the other maintenance history, and how recently have you changed plugs and oil and removed and cleaned the throttle body? Ever changed the cam sensor or CPAS?

Do you have access to a scan tool other than at a parts store that can read codes and real-time sensor data?

How much of a DIY'er are you?
 

mrjean

Original poster
Member
Jul 15, 2012
110
the car is a 2002 tb ext lt. has 212k. bought it about a week ago after my envoy xlt slt was crashed into and total loss. im guessing they towed something because under the steering wheel is a brake assist for towing trailers. i put some good used tires and did an alignment on it because it was pretty bad. apart from the mil codes i took it to my mechanic and he said that i need to replace the following.

all 4 front control arms
lower ball joints (upper ball joints are ok)
rear shocks
rear sway bar links and bushings
four rotors plus all brake pads.
the master brake cylinder because it seems that it has another oil other than brake oil (power steering or engine oil perhaps)
AND my e-brake does not engage (when i pull the lever the cluster recognizes it but i can still drive with it on, however i cant reverse with it on)
all in all about $800 in parts and pieces from ebay

the guy who i bought it from told me the following.

both outer tie rod ends 2/2012 (the longer one)
gas filter in 2/2013
spark plugs 11/2012
ignition cables not changed
oil and filter 2 weeks before i bought it
driver side wheel bearing recently (last 3 or 4 months)
passenger side wheel bearing 6 months ago
never the break system (master cylinder, pads or rotors)
never changed fuel pump or fuel sending unit sensor
air filter 6 months ago

i got the car for $2400 so i dont mind putting $1000 into it if i know it will drive like its supposed to. i love to work on my car so i love the diy aspect. however i havent gotten around to cleaning the throttle body yet (i have cleaned them in the past and love the outcome) because im waiting for the ambient temp sensor to get here from autozone (they were out and had to order one) so i could do the most in one sitting.

im wondering if im going to have to bite the bullet and replace the cpas/variable valve timing solenoid, the camshaft sensor, the CRANKshaft sensor and the vent sensor. since im going to be in the area anything else you recommend with the history i have just given you?

ps. i think one of the wheel weights fell off when they balanced the ones i got because yesterday on the highway the steering wheel starting shaking above 40mph. when i brake the shaking goes down. i had to take main roads last night when i was 1hr away from home.

OVER LOAD OF INFO I KNOW!!! :crazy:
 

The_Roadie

Lifetime VIP Donor
Member
Nov 19, 2011
9,957
Portland, OR
mrjean said:
ignition cables not changed
That's good because the I6 has none. :wink:
im wondering if im going to have to bite the bullet and replace the cpas/variable valve timing solenoid, the camshaft sensor, the CRANKshaft sensor and the vent sensor. since im going to be in the area anything else you recommend with the history i have just given you?
I'd wait on the crank sensor because you'll need to pay a mechanic with a high end scan tool or a GM Tech II to do a crank relearn. The CPAS and cam sensor are not that expensive, and easy to change. The CPAS needs the PS pump tilted out of the way but the cam sensor is trivial. And no relearns are necessary for those two.
ps. i think one of the wheel weights fell off when they balanced the ones i got because yesterday on the highway the steering wheel starting shaking above 40mph. when i brake the shaking goes down. i had to take main roads last night when i was 1hr away from home.
Was it OK right after the new tires?
OVER LOAD OF INFO I KNOW!!! :crazy:
Nah, a very cogent report. It's like you're looking for new doctor. You need to cough up some fluid samples and a case history. Glad you found GMTN, and not depend on trailvoy volunteers (whoever's left back there) to keep you going.
 

signalnc

Member
Dec 28, 2012
249
I had the p0440 code (evap) on my '03 recently. after replacing the gas cap, fuel fill line, and getting a smoke test at a shop and passing the smoke test, the code came back. then I replaced the fuel tank pressure sensor and that did the trick. I think I paid $40 for the part, dropped the spare tire, reached up on the top of the tank ( rear left side), and changed it out. problem solved.
 

mrjean

Original poster
Member
Jul 15, 2012
110
@signalnc
is the fuel tank pressure sensor the same as the vent sensor?

@the roadio
so cpas, cam sensor and possible vent sensor to try to clear codes?
also, the shaking didnt start until i made my return home on the same highway. this is why im thinking that a weight must of fallen off. its ok at low speed but once i get to 40mph or higher vibration starts
i posted this on trailvoy because i didnt remember what the new page was and then when i was looking at a how-to i noticed a picture had an advertising for the new page and BAM! here i am. much better response than trailvoy (im still waiting on someone to respond).

im trying to just buy all the parts i need (sensors or hardware) for the tb so i could do the work myself. not paying a shop 600 bucks to unscrew/screw back in some nuts. the one thing i MAY take it to them for is the master cylinder and rotos/pads. i dont know how to do that (unless there was a nifty how-to here WINK WINK)
 

mrjean

Original poster
Member
Jul 15, 2012
110
maybe one of you can help decipher this for me...
are these three separate parts???

purge valve solenoid
purge valve
vent solenoid

i feel like the purge valve solenoid and the purge valve are two pieces that make up one. kinda like how the lower control arm comes sometimes with the lower ball joint (2 pieces that make up one). autozone list them as different pieces when you look up purge valve http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalog/search/searchResults.jsp?searchText=purge+valve (it shoes solenoid and just the valve)

also the vent solenoid on autozone website comes up with different results http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalog/search/searchResults.jsp?searchText=vent+solenoid

im getting ready to make my purchase on all sensors and just wanted to make sure i have them all.
 

BRomanJr

Member
Dec 9, 2011
371
mrjean said:
maybe one of you can help decipher this for me...
are these three separate parts???

purge valve solenoid
purge valve
vent solenoid

i feel like the purge valve solenoid and the purge valve are two pieces that make up one. kinda like how the lower control arm comes sometimes with the lower ball joint (2 pieces that make up one). autozone list them as different pieces when you look up purge valve Search Results for purge valve | AutoZone.com (it shoes solenoid and just the valve)

also the vent solenoid on autozone website comes up with different results Search Results for vent solenoid | AutoZone.com

im getting ready to make my purchase on all sensors and just wanted to make sure i have them all.

The Purge Valve and Solenoid are one part, located on Drivers side of engine just above the oil pan.

The Vent Valve and Solenoid, also one part, are located back by the fuel tank,

Both have a connection to the wiring harness and two plastic lines connected to them.


Unfortunately in some cases, multiple codes can be triggered by one fault.
The normal process is to troubleshoot first code that comes up, clear codes and check out operation and see if other codes come back then troubleshoot then next one in order.
 

mrjean

Original poster
Member
Jul 15, 2012
110
Would u be able to help me in selecting the correct part for the vent and purge?

They look like different parts on the pics.
The purge valve solenoid
The purge valve
The vent valve
 

signalnc

Member
Dec 28, 2012
249
are you buying these items online? or going to the store. I have found amazon usually has the best prices.

as I stated before, I had the p0440 on my '03 and the fuel tank pressure sensor fixed it. here it is for you 2002. you can put that in, clear the codes, then wait to see if it comes back.

ACDelco 16238399 Fuel Tank Sensor : Amazon.com : Automotive

you also have a P0138 code --02 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank I Sensor 2). I have no personal experience with this one, with the exception that I changed my upstream o2 sensor becuase it was overdue to be changed. There is a special tool available at your local auto parts store to change these out. you will have 2, one right at the manifold and one after your cat. I only changed the one at the manifold. I sprayed it down with aerokroil the night before I took it out. You can use PB blaster. Aerokroil is not sold in stores.

you have a p0014 code and p1345--camshaft position actuator sensor. read this:

http://gmtnation.com/f93/how-clean-...osition-actuator-solenoid-picture-heavy-2263/

if it was my vehicle this is what i would change, clear the codes, and see if anything comes back
 

mrjean

Original poster
Member
Jul 15, 2012
110
ok so this is what im getting from the help you guys have provided to clear the codes (which is sooooo much appreciated and by the way, i cleared them at AZ friday i believe and they came back today sunday). im great at diy just need to now what im doing lol

purge solenoid im purchasing and changing (what would be the easiest way to access this?)
vent valve solenoid im puchasing and changing (do i need to drop the tank for this?)
camshaft sensor im purchasing and changing (saw a few videos on youtube about discrepancy on location, one has it rear of enging other more fwd)
fuel tank pressure sensor purchasing and changing (do i need to drop the tank for this?)

already bought
both o2 sensors (with the sensor wrench)
cpas
map sensor (why not change it, i mean the truck has 212k miles)

along with both control arms (with lower brakets and lower ball joints), 4 cross drilled rotors and ceramic pads all around, new mastery cylinder (does anybody have a HOW TO on this?), rear shocks, rear sway bay links and bushings i think i am going to have a SOLID car for years to come...

one question...on the vent valve AZ shows two different ones...one seems to have an extra piece to it, the other doesnt.
View attachment 27807
View attachment 27808
 

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mrphoenix80

Member
Jan 1, 2013
251
The top one is the just the valve. The bottom one is the valve and the filter as one piece. When I get the GM one it looks like the bottom one. I would get the one with the filter on it because if there is dirt the filter it could harm the new valve. Besides I have never seperated the filter withoout breaking it.
 

mrjean

Original poster
Member
Jul 15, 2012
110
awesome..thanks guys

now i need to find how to's for master cylinder, parking break shoe/cable/kit.

i havent gotten the wheels off to take a look but i just want to be prepared for when i get them off.

im looking to invest into a air compressor and impact wrench but dont know whats out there that could move the nuts. i have heard people review some compressors rated at 150psi 2 or 3.5 gal that say dont move the wrench enough to loosen tire lugs...
 

mrphoenix80

Member
Jan 1, 2013
251
Depends on what you want to do.
For an air compressor I would go with one the has at least a 20gal tank and 5 hp. Also I would suggest one that the compressor and motor are seperate. I bought a Cambell Housfield 20+ yrs ago and it has been great for me! But they dont make them like that any more.:frown:

For an impact gun I would get a good name gun. Personally I use a Ingersol Rand IR231 all day every day. And for price vs performance it is a winner for me. Looked at a brand new 1 yesterday at TSC for $160.

With this setup up I can do lugnuts with ease. It takes a bit of work but I can do axle nuts to. Also keep in mind if I was on a shorter hose I would have more power too. The compressor is in my basement and I use 100ft of hose to get to the car.

Now if you are not going to run any other air tools (ratchets, sanders, cut-off tools). You may want to look at a cordless impact. The place I have my project truck has limited air power so I bring my cordless. It is also handy for roadside and junkyard work if needed.:yes: I have a snapon li-ion gun that was just under $600 (but how much is a compresor and impact combo?). I was suprised to find that I tightened a bolt with it the other day and could not remove it with my IR.:eek: So for power you are good there. I think dewalt has a good one also.

Now onward
For the brakes... replacing the pads and rotors is an easy job they just unbolt. Use a C-clamp and an old pad to push the piston back in and MAKE SURE you clean the caliper frames were the pads sit. If they don't slide in real easy they wont slide in use and will cause you problems. Also lube your slide pins.

If you got the rear rotors off you should be able to see how the park brake shoe fits. It takes some work but it will come off over the axle. The hard part is in side the little cylinder there is a pin that goes between the lever and the non adjustable side. all too often this pin is missing cause on park brake function so check it. If you are doing the cables the lever will most likely come out anyway. The cables are easy they just hook over the levers and the hook to the equlizer.(as I am typing I am realizing a step by step with pics would be awsome)

The master cylinder :whistle: while it is not a hard job will require bleeding the brakes and that means bleeding the ABS unit also which can only be done with a scan tool :banghead: So that might be out of your hands.
 

mrjean

Original poster
Member
Jul 15, 2012
110
see my issue here is that i dont have a garage and whatever i get needs to be portable or not take up huge amounts of space...now since im doing rotors, control arms and suspension work nontheless...i need to know what can take out axle nuts that fits my criteria. ive been looking homedepot, lowes...shit even craigslist in the boston, ma area but since ive never owned one i dont know what to look for. ive use them tho. i dont mind a gun/compressor combo its just that im afraid to buy something that wont move the axle nut at least. someone is selling me a ust 1106c compressor. 2hp 4.6 tank 126psi/90 - 126psi. impact wrench tho.

as far as the master cylinder, i guess ill let my shop do that. ill do the rotors/pads/parking brake work so they dont rape me. however ill be smart and see how much they quote me to do the brake system. i just hate the fact that they are going to have the rotors off and i could get in there to do the rest of the work (i know it doesnt work like that lol)
 

mrjean

Original poster
Member
Jul 15, 2012
110
Ive settled on an electronic imparct wrench...however one question lingers...to install the fyel level sensor do I need to drop the tank?
 

The_Roadie

Lifetime VIP Donor
Member
Nov 19, 2011
9,957
Portland, OR
mrjean said:
....to install the fyel level sensor do I need to drop the tank?
Yes. Or measure and cut a VERY precise hole though your floorboard to get at it from above. I have some gas tank armor that makes it VERY hard to drop the tank, so if I ever need to do it, I'm going in with a power nibbler from above.

gasskid25.jpg
 

mrjean

Original poster
Member
Jul 15, 2012
110
Im hopping that without the spare I can read. I think someone posted here about it.
 

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