Light bulb moment! Non-invasive use of stock radio - adding subs

nopaybob

Original poster
Member
Apr 3, 2013
97
At this point I do not have the funds for a quality head unit plus the gmos-01 I have steering controls, onstar and non bose.

This is what I have laying around PA1200.1 amp , A pair of Polk 12" subs in a fierce audio ported box, iec auloc adjustable output line converter.

What about this...
I was thinking I could use the headphone output in the rear to send a signal to the adjustable output line converter which would feed a the input to my amp.:smile:
 

scorpio1

Member
Dec 12, 2012
50
If you have the upgrade stereo with stock amplifier, you can wire the line output converter to the Stock Amplifier in the rear behind the plastic panel, then get your ground, amp turn on, and power from the rear fuse block under the middle (LWB) or back (SWB) seats. That's probably the best/ easiest choice for an easy no head unit install.

Kardain is running this setup in his TB, and it sounds great for a line output setup. PM him for more specific wiring info, and tell him Scorpio1 sent ya, he'll respond.

Hope that helps.:smile:
 

jeffro312

Member
Oct 4, 2012
442
East Haven,Ct
If you do not have a factory amp.use.line out converter tap into rear speaker signal.

As far as hooking up power to fuse.block in rear. I find that to be a bad idea as it will be drawing current from systems fused in block. Always better off going directly to battery. I used a seat bolt in back seat for ground. Also make sure to run RCA's to line out away from power
 

scorpio1

Member
Dec 12, 2012
50
Good point Jeffro, I'm not entirely sure how much voltage gets back to the fuse box back there, as I haven't metered it, but if its over a steady 12 or more volts were it enters the fuse box he should be fine if hes not burping his amp/ sub or playing it mega loud all the time.

My personal setup with my amplifier is ran from the battery and grounded to a seat bolt also, that's the preferred and the most reliable way, definitely.:yes:
 

The_Roadie

Lifetime VIP Donor
Member
Nov 19, 2011
9,957
Portland, OR
The rear fuse block is fed from the 125 Amp megafuse up front. The voltage will be fine. I have used as much as 75 Amps from this connection for an AC inverter, without the megafuse blowing. A 500 Watt or smaller amplifier should be fine there. Larger ones need a direct battery feed.
 

nopaybob

Original poster
Member
Apr 3, 2013
97
No factory amp in this tb
I have some time today to check it out and hook it up.
I may tap that rear fuse block..
I will have an 80 amp inline fuse, What all runs off that rear fuse block anyway?
 

STLtrailbSS

Member
Dec 4, 2011
1,617
nopaybob said:
No factory amp in this tb
I have some time today to check it out and hook it up.
I may tap that rear fuse block..
I will have an 80 amp inline fuse, What all runs off that rear fuse block anyway?
Its a body control module/fuse panel, lots of randoms 12v sockets,wipers,radio,interior/dash lighting control signals its like a brain somewhat..... all that jazz
 

nopaybob

Original poster
Member
Apr 3, 2013
97
STLtrailbSS said:
Its a body control module/fuse panel, lots of randoms 12v sockets,wipers,radio,interior/dash lighting control signals its like a brain somewhat..... all that jazz

Yeah I just checked it out body control module and everything, Now I know why some are leery of this connection.
 

STLtrailbSS

Member
Dec 4, 2011
1,617
nopaybob said:
Yeah I just checked it out body control module and everything, Now I know why some are leery of this connection.
][/URL]

Ran 650rms 5 channel on it for 3 months. no issue waiting on wire backorder
 

scorpio1

Member
Dec 12, 2012
50
If your really worried about it you could get a capacitor, to help alleviate the stress on the fuse block or the battery.

I'm planning to add one to my setup soon, as my "little" Rockford 303w rms amp is dimming the headlights on hard hits as is, and I'm running from the battery straight to the amp.
 

jeffro312

Member
Oct 4, 2012
442
East Haven,Ct
scorpio1 said:
If your really worried about it you could get a capacitor, to help alleviate the stress on the fuse block or the battery.

I'm planning to add one to my setup soon, as my "little" Rockford 303w rms amp is dimming the headlights on hard hits as is, and I'm running from the battery straight to the amp.

If your lights are dimming a capacitor will not solve this you have to upgrade the big three first. All a capacitor does is store some charge so when amp needs it its there and get a better sound.

Big three is battery alternated and wiring from bat to alt

Just saying I see all these guys thinking a cap is going to do wonders spend your money on something worth it.

My lights dimmed all I did was upgrade my battery and it went away. (Probably a bad battery not saying changing a good battery will have same effect)

So just my 2cents
 

nopaybob

Original poster
Member
Apr 3, 2013
97
Well I did it, Its hard to see in the pics but for the ground I unbolted the rear fuse box and removed the paint from 1 stud since my ground eyelet was not big enough for a seat bolt. I put a little dielectric grease on it and tightened it up. Then remounted the fuse box over that one nut.
I cut up a audio video cord from an old camera and wired it into the signal converter.

Sound pretty good for me and the rear HU control acts as a bass knob :biggrin:
 

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Mark20

Member
Dec 6, 2011
1,630
Not as intense as a sub amplifier but I run an amateur radio transmitter from the power feed on the BCM. It can pull up to 9 amps continuously while transmitting. I've been doing that for years and it has been fine. My friends would let me know the moment my transmit signal starts sounding funny.
 

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