LCA Replacement tips/tricks or video

Menthol

Original poster
Member
Dec 8, 2011
177
Will be doing complete UCA with bushings top ball joint, LCA complete with ball joint and bushings, struts complete assembly. Recently did outer tie rods and sway bars links. A video will be great(could not find any with LCA) but if anyone did theirs, please share tips or shortcuts or tricks. My only worry will be getting the top ball joint out of that arm...
2003 Trailblazer EXT LT 4.2l, 4X4
Thanks
Vince
 

Daniel644

Member
Feb 27, 2015
582
for the upper ball joint go rent the ball joint press from the autoparts, it's about 180 of a deposit but you get it back when you return the tool. the lower arms aren't all that hard, you will need some pry bars.

my biggest tip is when threading back in the 3 bolts that hold the lower control arm to the frame make sure the control arm is seated enough that you don't cross thread those bolts and put them in with a ratchet until you need to do the final tightening, I was using an impact and crossthreaded the bolt and the nut on the frame and am waiting on the tap and die to arrive so I can fix it as NO ONE carries taps or dies that big locally.

first step, just to get it out of the way drop and remove the front sway bar, which is pretty easy to do on the 03's (atleast mine was), you really need the sway bar endlink out of the way on the early years especially if you've swapped to the Moog endlinks so you can get the shock out easier.

once the sway bar is off the truck proceed to removing the brakes, calipers, pads, rotors the whole setup done to the hub, once that is done, locate and unclip the ABS line on the frame and disconnect it from all it's clips, remember to support the caliper so the line isn't stretching.

next unbolt the tie rod end from the knuckle and then remove the bolt for the lower ball joint and do your best to pop it free, once you get the lower one free remove the pinch bolt from the upper and use a hammer to tap it up and off the upper ball joint, DO NOT LET THE SPINDLE FALL AWAY YET

now remove the axle nut (35 or 36mm, mine was 35 DEEP WELL socket) and use your tool of choice to push the axle out of the hub, I used something like the tool seen in the lower corner of this picture as it was something I had lying around

400px-993_rear_bearing_-_image007.jpg


once the axle start coming out you can now lift off the hub bearing and spindle in one piece, support the axle after removing the spindle.

at this point you can now go one of 2 ways, remove the shock/spring or remove the upper control arm (there are videos on both of them (driverside ChrisFix, passenger side 1aauto on youtube). I will not go into the uppers as those videos cover it.

removing the shock spring is now SUPER easy, there are 2 18mm bolts on the top of the shock (visible under the hood, the passenger side requires removal of the airbox lid so you can move the air intake hose out of the way), take those bolts about half loose then remove the 18mm pinch bolt where the shock goes into the arm that curves around the front axle and remove the nut that holds that arm to the lower control arm, but leave it just partially threaded on, now what you want to do is get a pry bar between that arm and the lower control arm and press on the pry bar as you whack the head of the nut with a hammer to pop the arm free from the stud (thats how I did it), once it's free you can remove the big nut and the 2 18mm at the top of the shock the rest of the way and slide the shock out.

at this point the only thing holding the lower control arm to the vehicle will be the 3 BIG bolts that run up into the frame, take out those 3 bolts and now comes the fun part, use your pry bars to rock the lower control arm back and forth until it gets free enough to pull it out.

once the old one is out try to clean out the pocket it slides into so the new one will go in easier, maybe grease things up a bit, but you will likely need the pry bar to pull the new one into position. then just reverse of removal. if you want on my way home tomorrow night I can stop at my parents and make a quick video pointing things out since my driverside isn't quite back together just yet.
 

Tiggerr

Member
Jun 6, 2013
1,324
Perrysburg, OH
Upper ball joint isn't in the control arm...it's in the knuckle itself. You have to press it out and press new in. The UCA attaches to the upper ball joint with the pinch bolt. Only hard part in the lowrer should be separating the knuckle from the ball joint. The lower is in the LCA. BFH and some pounding should accomplish that. Unless you want to spring for the tool to push it out. You could use a pitman arm puller on the lower strut mount. Or brute force again. LCA just bolts to the frame otherwise.
 

gmcman

Member
Dec 12, 2011
4,656
Also the lower control arm bolts have a very high torque rating. You may want to check the service manual for the year of your truck but I believe the front bolt is 195 foot pounds and the other 2 are 177 foot pounds.

You will need to take it for an alignment after you loosen the LCA.
 

Menthol

Original poster
Member
Dec 8, 2011
177
Thanks for all the info so far. What are you opinions about parts quality for Dorman, Moog or Mevotech for the lower control arms, the others parts look like they can be easily changed.
 

Daniel644

Member
Feb 27, 2015
582
never used Dorman for suspension before, I used Moog parts only on my firebird and am using the Mevotech SUPREME (not the standard version) on this front end per ChrisFix's opinion of the products, but have no prior experience with them.
 

Menthol

Original poster
Member
Dec 8, 2011
177
Another question...should I tightened the UCA/LCA bushing bolts during instal or should I wait until I put the wheel back on the ground or it doesn't matter.
I'm thinking it may put more pressure on the rubber if the position it different from when on the ground
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,397
Ottawa, ON
Yes, tighten them only once on the ground and level.
 

Menthol

Original poster
Member
Dec 8, 2011
177
Thanks for all the tips. Well, I finished the drivers side yesterday. Changed the struts (Monroe quick) top and bottom control arm (Mevotech Supreme), ball joint (Moogs). Sway links and outer tie rods were changed a few months ago. I also change the rear shocks to Monroe reflex (Had originals).

I did the ball joint on the passenger side too so I can return the ball joint press to get back my $170.00 back from Partssource, what a piece of crap, only 3 rings and 2 caps and clamp. That was only good to press in, to press out I had to use a combination of pipe fittings and crap I had. If you're doing this did get a FULL kit.

Had to leave off because one control arm bolt to frame was rusted on the driver side, (Shank was about 1mm less)so I use one from passenger side to torque down properly.
Cannot get the bolt from the dealer none locally (Dealerships) I will have to check Brafasco or a bolt supplier tomorrow,if not,I'll have to order from somewhere across the border to ship here. (if you have 2 or 3 new, feel free to pm me for my address lol)
For a vehicle with 220K only the top control arm and lower ball joint was the only things in bad shape. The LCA bushings were still stiff.
Was quoted $2700 CAD, including tax to repair, without rears. I got all the parts + rear shocks for $1200 CAD, shipped to my door (Rockauto) Very happy.
 
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Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,397
Ottawa, ON
You have a pick-a-part or Kenny-U-Pull nearby? Maybe just pull the bolts off a junker.
 

Menthol

Original poster
Member
Dec 8, 2011
177
Ok, After getting an alignment today and only the toe was off. I'll add my 2 cents to setting the bracket until you can get it align.
On the frame where the bracket is, there is an angled part of the frame (edge of pocket) Take a tape measure and set it against the angle and measure from there to the centre of bolts that hold the control arm (control arm to bracket bolts) That's how I set mine and they did not had to adjust bracket bolts. Got printout of before and after readings.
Toughest part of this job..was putting that knuckle back and getting drive-shaft and lower ball joint align. Heavy B!*&@
 
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Menthol

Original poster
Member
Dec 8, 2011
177
Used a 3lb ball-peen, pickle fork, penetrating spray and beat the funk out of it. if your talking shock end, took the bolt out and wedge a cold chisel and beat on mount.
 

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