ignition switch, gauges, shifter issue - not working!!

Jackster

Original poster
Member
Apr 14, 2012
10
k guys, i've browsed the forums and found some conflicting statements, took bits and pieces from different threads, but can't seem to find a straight answer to my exact problem. here's the deal:

the car is at a workshop, since it's being painted. the workers had to dismantle a couple of interior and exterior features (switches, lights, lamps, interior panels, etc.). the car was running ok until (that's what they say) they drove it for approx. 30 seconds, turned it off and... the key wouldn't leave the ignition. the shifter is stuck in park and the car won't start (the key won't go all the way to the end + no gauges/dash light light up/seem to work). the battery if by far not fully charged, but the seat seems to work, the chime for the key in the ignition works etc.

i already know how to remove the key and how to move the shifter from park, using levers/switches etc.

i've checked both fuse boxes, they seem all right. the security light on the radio blinks normally. there's no SES/CHECK light, as there are no lights on the dash whatsoever. when i tried and plug in a service/diagnostics computer, it wouldn't communicate with the car, as it said the ignition needs to be turned on (it was with the key in and turned, but that didn't seem to do anything). when i put in the key, the chime + seat memory seems to work though...

the car is still partially dissmantled. can it be a (missing/unconnected) ground issue?? faulty ignition switch?? something else?? please help!!
 

RayVoy

Member
Nov 20, 2011
939
Sounds like the battery needs to be charged, or replaced.
 

The_Roadie

Lifetime VIP Donor
Member
Nov 19, 2011
9,957
Portland, OR
Or the ignition switch. Somebody with a voltmeter should be able to track it down in ten minutes max.

trailblazer_harness.jpg
 

TXBlazer

Member
Nov 21, 2011
533
Cypress, TEXAS USA
make sure you check all the fuses for the ignition/starter as well....there is one under the back seat #47 (10A) 6 under the hood #14 (10A) #17 (10A) #22 (10A) #34 & #36 (40A Jcase fuses) & #47 (starter relay)
 

Jackster

Original poster
Member
Apr 14, 2012
10
the fuses have already been checked and they seem fine. just in case, i ordered a new ignition switch
 

RayVoy

Member
Nov 20, 2011
939
Jackster said:
it's not the battery, i'm gonna check the ignition tomorrow
What I said was, it might be the battery, or it needs to be charged.

You have it in the shop

The doors are open,

The guys turn on the music

ETC, Etc, Etc.

Maybe they let the battery run down.


Jackster said:
it's not the battery,
And, how do you know it's not the battery?

Jackster said:
just in case, i ordered a new ignition switch

And, btw, having a spare is not a bad idea...............but, don't change it until you know the battery is charged.
 

Jackster

Original poster
Member
Apr 14, 2012
10
well, cause i charged it, it seems fine, it does power all the other equipment in the car, etc.
 

RayVoy

Member
Nov 20, 2011
939
Jackster said:
well, cause i charged it, it seems fine, it does power all the other equipment in the car, etc.
Ok., as long as you are convinced that the battery will hold a charge, that is fine.

Normally, I would not suggest to an owner that throwing parts at a vehicle is a good thing to do.

The smart thing is to diagnosis and know for sure that the part being replaced is really the problem;
however, the ignition switch is a known problem and changing it is cheaper than proving it is bad, so go ahead and change it.
 

Jackster

Original poster
Member
Apr 14, 2012
10
i'm gonna diagnose it tomorrow, no matter what. i'll check all the wires, grounds, connections going in and out of the connector that has been pasted above. if i am able to find what's wrong - well, it'll be fixed. any other tips besides checking the connector/pins??
 

RayVoy

Member
Nov 20, 2011
939
The switch comes out real easy, when the new one arrives, pull the old one and compare continuity.
 

Jackster

Original poster
Member
Apr 14, 2012
10
ok, thanks for all the tips guys. does anyone have any electrical schematics for the ignition that might be any more helpful??
 

The_Roadie

Lifetime VIP Donor
Member
Nov 19, 2011
9,957
Portland, OR
I don't have access to my schematics at the moment, but this should help for the main wires:

RED on the ignition switch is 12V, fused by underhood fuse #34, and feeds the following three circuits:

White is hot in ACCY, RUN, START
Orange is hot in RUN
Yellow is hot in START

RED/WHITE is another 12V, fused by underhood fuse #36, and feeds two circuits:

Brown is hot in ACCY, RUN
Pink is hot in RUN, START
 

Jackster

Original poster
Member
Apr 14, 2012
10
today i got a 90% confirmation that it's the ignition switch. i was told it's impossible to get a 100% without the schematics, even thought the mechanic/electrician read everything you guys posted in this thread... i'm no elecrician so it's hard for me to judge all of this. if you guys happen to have the applicable schematics, i would be grateful for posting them, 'cause i'm getting a little frustrated. still, i ordered a new ignition switch, so i do hope this will solve the problem.
 

The_Roadie

Lifetime VIP Donor
Member
Nov 19, 2011
9,957
Portland, OR
A member here is hosting copies of a manual. Search for that thread. I can't post mine until Saturday. Odd mechanic that doesn't have a Mitchell subscription or at least Alldatadiy.com. But you did the right thing anyway; the switches are flaky and could strand you in a crappy place in bad weather at a time of its choosing, not yours.
 

RayVoy

Member
Nov 20, 2011
939
Jack, as I said earlier, I don't recommend throwing parts at a problem, unless the part is cheaper than the trouble-shooting; your spending a whole lot more time that it's worth, the switch is only $30 and we know it is going to fail (the question is not "if" it fails, but "when" it fails), just change it.

If it doesn't work, nothing is lost, you will have a more reliable switch, and a used, but good, spare.
 

Jackster

Original poster
Member
Apr 14, 2012
10
Jackster said:
today i got a 90% confirmation that it's the ignition switch. i was told it's impossible to get a 100% without the schematics, even thought the mechanic/electrician read everything you guys posted in this thread... i'm no elecrician so it's hard for me to judge all of this. if you guys happen to have the applicable schematics, i would be grateful for posting them, 'cause i'm getting a little frustrated. still, i ordered a new ignition switch, so i do hope this will solve the problem.

he does have alldata, but had some problems with it, but will have it working by sunday. if you can post your schematic, even on saturday, that would be great.
 

Jackster

Original poster
Member
Apr 14, 2012
10
the roadie said:
A member here is hosting copies of a manual. Search for that thread. I can't post mine until Saturday. Odd mechanic that doesn't have a Mitchell subscription or at least Alldatadiy.com. But you did the right thing anyway; the switches are flaky and could strand you in a crappy place in bad weather at a time of its choosing, not yours.

you know, i just want to make sure that my car will be up and running, so i want to make sure that changing the ignition switch will solve the problem. the other thing is that i'm from poland and ordering it and waiting for it to be shipped from the us takes time and i was simply hoping on having the car running by now, but i guess i'll just have to wait
 

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