I ordered some stuff.

blazinlow89

Original poster
Member
Jan 25, 2012
2,088
Let me start off by saying I broke down and ordered a few things, some I needed and others I could have done cheaper.

First off I ordered some LED tails, I know some of you guys are gonna say wtf is wrong with, but eh whatever I thought they looked good.

eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices

I also ordered some Revers LED bulbs and some Front turn signal amber ones.

eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices

eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices

I ordered some more 194 bulbs, I got 10 clear and I think they will be fine in the corner signals.

And finally I ordered the Brakemotive Drilled and slotted rotors and pads.

It was an ebay heavy day. Now for a few questions

Does any one have experience with these lights and needing resistors to counter act hyper blink? I have seen alot of confusing info about using 3 ohm 50 watt resistors at the tail, 6 ohm ones etc.

Next will be the Avalanche 3rd BL, and maybe some nerf bars who has a set they don't want any more?
 

Blckshdw

Moderator
Nov 20, 2011
10,697
Tampa Bay Area, FL
blazinlow89 said:
Let me start off by saying I broke down and ordered a few things, some I needed and others I could have done cheaper.

First off I ordered some LED tails, I know some of you guys are gonna say wtf is wrong with, but eh whatever I thought they looked good.
[EBAY]140699293611[/EBAY]

I also ordered some Revers LED bulbs and some Front turn signal amber ones.

[EBAY]120859188671[/EBAY][EBAY]380410970586[/EBAY]

I ordered some more 194 bulbs, I got 10 clear and I think they will be fine in the corner signals.

And finally I ordered the Brakemotive Drilled and slotted rotors and pads.

It was an ebay heavy day. Now for a few questions

Does any one have experience with these lights and needing resistors to counter act hyper blink? I have seen alot of confusing info about using 3 ohm 50 watt resistors at the tail, 6 ohm ones etc.

Next will be the Avalanche 3rd BL, and maybe some nerf bars who has a set they don't want any more?

:undecided: If those tails you bought have built in load resistors, which I think they might, you may be able to simply swap your stock flasher module (just above and to the left of the brake pedal) with an LED flasher module LM487, which would be plug and play. Otherwise, you would need to go with the load resistors for the turn signals. :yes:
 

Boricua SS

Member
Nov 20, 2011
3,080
Ohio
:iagree: with what Carlton said...

im doing the LED exterior overhaul as well... and the 3 Ohm 50W load equalizer/resistor is used when you have both front turrn signal LED's and rear turn signal LED's... you use one 3 Ohm load equalizer/resistor per side (usually on the rear tail lights wire harness, blue wire i do believe is for positive, and then just ground it)... the 6 Ohm load equalizer/resistor is used when you only do LED's i either the front OR the back...

hope this clears things up for ya...
 

kardain

Member
Dec 16, 2011
557
Boricua SS said:
:iagree: with what Carlton said...

im doing the LED exterior overhaul as well... and the 3 Ohm 50W load equalizer/resistor is used when you have both front turrn signal LED's and rear turn signal LED's... you use one 3 Ohm load equalizer/resistor per side (usually on the rear tail lights wire harness, blue wire i do believe is for positive, and then just ground it)... the 6 Ohm load equalizer/resistor is used when you only do LED's i either the front OR the back...

hope this clears things up for ya...

Yups. Tis the blue wire.
 

Boricua SS

Member
Nov 20, 2011
3,080
Ohio

kardain

Member
Dec 16, 2011
557
Boricua SS said:
these are the same exact ones i have.. theyre good :thumbsup:

Unless the tails already have built in load resistors, in which case they will be 6ohm... Will need a pair of 6ohm 50w up front instead of the 3ohm.
 

Boricua SS

Member
Nov 20, 2011
3,080
Ohio

blazinlow89

Original poster
Member
Jan 25, 2012
2,088
Well my girl ordered a me a new light bar for the rear of the truck, my old one is looking a bit rough, sections of lights out and a huge crack. Well its a 60", so we are going to exchange it for a 48/49". Well she asked if there was anything else I wanted. Needless to say, Avalanche 3rd brake light is on it's way :wootwoot:. LED's all around.
 

Boricua SS

Member
Nov 20, 2011
3,080
Ohio
blazinlow89 said:
Well my girl ordered a me a new light bar for the rear of the truck, my old one is looking a bit rough, sections of lights out and a huge crack. Well its a 60", so we are going to exchange it for a 48/49". Well she asked if there was anything else I wanted. Needless to say, Avalanche 3rd brake light is on it's way :wootwoot:. LED's all around.

now thats a keeper!!! :rotfl:
 

blazinlow89

Original poster
Member
Jan 25, 2012
2,088
Well my 1st set of resistors showed up, however they are rated 6-8 ohm, and it would cost me more to send them back than I spent. Would these still work or does anyone see a problem.
 

kardain

Member
Dec 16, 2011
557
Should be fine. Resistors usually have a +/- tolerance anyway due to variations when being manufactured.
 

blazinlow89

Original poster
Member
Jan 25, 2012
2,088
Ok new tails came in, but the guy that sent me my LED towers only sent 2, at least they are the same color.

The tails have about 20 resistors in the back, guessing it is to go from one LED to the next. So my gamble was worth it, I have "6" ohm resistors and all the turn signal LED's, just waiting on reverse ones.

Next question is what 2 wires do I go across on the front, is it still Blue and ground or is it something else.
 

kardain

Member
Dec 16, 2011
557
Yep. Blue to ground if you are referring to the rear harness.
 

blazinlow89

Original poster
Member
Jan 25, 2012
2,088
kardain said:
Yep. Blue to ground if you are referring to the rear harness.

I was going by your earlier post about using the resistors up front, if the rear had them built in.
 

kardain

Member
Dec 16, 2011
557
blazinlow89 said:
I was going by your earlier post about using the resistors up front, if the rear had them built in.

Not sure offhand which color the turn is up front, but brown is park, black is ground... The remaining color will be turn.
 

Blckshdw

Moderator
Nov 20, 2011
10,697
Tampa Bay Area, FL
blazinlow89 said:
Ok new tails came in, but the guy that sent me my LED towers only sent 2, at least they are the same color.

The tails have about 20 resistors in the back, guessing it is to go from one LED to the next. So my gamble was worth it, I have "6" ohm resistors and all the turn signal LED's, just waiting on reverse ones.

Next question is what 2 wires do I go across on the front, is it still Blue and ground or is it something else.

Mind posting a pic of this? This has me curious. :undecided:
 

blazinlow89

Original poster
Member
Jan 25, 2012
2,088
Blckshdw said:
Mind posting a pic of this? This has me curious. :undecided:

Here you are sir.

View attachment 18929

I was a little off its 10 per bulb, so I was about right 20 for the set. This is the middle bulb, by the way. Thinking about doing quad tails now for the factory board. Also the mounting holes in the tail are a little larger that the stock ones, so on my way to the store to get some larger screws.
 

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blazinlow89

Original poster
Member
Jan 25, 2012
2,088
Ok so tailights came in sat, (when did fedex start doing sat delivery with ground, not complaining). So I will pics up soon, think they look pretty good, I am a little thrown off with the chrome in the center, but they look way better than stock.

The light bar came (wrong size), good thing it was wrong. Good thing it was wrong, looked like it got trampled by a rhino, would have been one mad mofo.

Now I am currently wating on a set of 40 bulb white SMD spider reverse lights, avalanche 3rd brake light, and a few other small components. Think I will finish my alarm tomorrow and stop being a wimp and just cut the damn start cable. When the avalanche brake light comes in I will do the rest of my LED work, with the towers up front, and the 5 smd white in the corners. Gonna be a bright truck :biggrin:.

Now I was digging through some stuff and I found a set of Fog lamps I bought, way back in the day. Still new, I want to hook these up to turn on with my running lights kind of like DRl's. They use H-3 bulbs so I might go HID one day with them, If i like them. Still debating on mounting, either behind the grill, factory fog location or on the sides of the license plate bracket. Thinking the bracket one, they are rectangular like 1.5", 3.5".

So i guess my question is what wire do I tap to get power from, so I can run a relay to these. Think I might do relay on the HID's to IF I am feeling up to it, think I will tap the plug, or just buy a relay kit. Still debating.

Thanks for the help as always guys, everyone is a huge help here.
 

Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
What fogs are they?
 

blazinlow89

Original poster
Member
Jan 25, 2012
2,088
Not sure on brand, no box.

Think I paid like $40 for them I think. I know the switch is missing, but the power wire and fuse holder are all there.
 

kardain

Member
Dec 16, 2011
557
See this page for relay wiring.

http://www.classictruckshop.com/clubs/earlyburbs/projects/bosch/foglites.htm

For the battery input, you can use the underhood fuse panel, for the trigger wire, I use the parking light power wire (brown wire in the 3757 harness)

There are other ways to add in fog lights, but this is by far the easiest. A wiring kit from O'Reillys is about $12-15 and includes a relay.
 

blazinlow89

Original poster
Member
Jan 25, 2012
2,088
Ok so

30 - 12v
85 - switch/brown wire
86 - ground
87 - power to fogs

I picked up a jumbo pack of stuff recently including 10 relays with harnesses, cost me around $23 for all of them. They are stinger brand.
 

kardain

Member
Dec 16, 2011
557
blazinlow89 said:
Ok so

30 - 12v
85 - switch/brown wire
86 - ground
87 - power to fogs

.

Correct

There are two circuits in the relay. One is for the supply voltage, the other is for the switch.

In simple terms, 30 and 87 go together and is an open circuit for the supply voltage until power is applied to 86. This closes the 30/87 circuit and the lights turn on. Remove power from 86 either by turning your park lights off or tuning off the switch and your aux lights turn off.

Now, if you have a 5 pin relay, the center pin (87a) also ties to 30, but is a normally closed circuit (aux lights on all the time, even if park lights are off). Apply power to 86 and the aux lights turn off. For a basic on/off aux light install, 87a isn't used.

Double throw double pole or two 5-pin in series are used for more complex installs (ex. Aux on with park, off with low beams, on with high beams) as you would be dealing with multiple inputs to achieve the desired result. That type of wiring will only be addressed if specifically requested. For now, just keep it simple :smile:

**I realize this is over-answering your verification, but in case of future inquiries or even for searches, if you know what I mean?
 

blazinlow89

Original poster
Member
Jan 25, 2012
2,088

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blazinlow89

Original poster
Member
Jan 25, 2012
2,088
I will when I get a chance.

The lights are growing on me, I did like them when I ordered them. It wasnt an I have to have them though, the more I look at them on the truck the more I like them.
 

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