Hooking up to factory low-level signals...

RZAwora

Original poster
Member
Apr 15, 2012
196
I'm looking to add a sub and keep everything else stock. I have an old sub and amp in my garage I'm thinking about throwing in just for a little extra thump. I read through a very long thread over on the OS My version of an amp install where there was some going back and forth as to whether or not you could just solder some RCA's to the low-level inputs going into the factory Bose amp or you had to install a LOC. One person said they soldered wires and was successful and very happy, another saying they had some noise. :undecided: Some people even said they hooked up an LOC to the low-levels and had success. I have the wiring diagram that was provided by MAY03LT- Wiring Diagram. :thumbsup: My ultimate question is can I just solder RCA's to these and be good to go, or do I really have to buy an LOC? Does anyone have any personal experience trying this? Secondly, this is a 600w peak amp, so that would be too much to connect to the fuse panel under the rear seat correct? I need to run power from the battery? I used to do this stuff many years ago...lol...it's been awhile. Thanks, I'll look forward to your input. :yes:
 

MAY03LT

Member
Nov 18, 2011
3,425
Delmarva
rzawora said:
My ultimate question is can I just solder RCA's to these and be good to go, or do I really have to buy an LOC?

Personally I think a lot of the conflicting posts were due to us having two different bose systems, lux and non-lux.

Secondly, this is a 600w peak amp, so that would be too much to connect to the fuse panel under the rear seat correct? I need to run power from the battery

What's the rms rating? Some members have run 500wrms amplifiers off of that post.
 

Black LT

Member
Dec 4, 2011
211
My set up is different, but I would'nt be afraid to tap into the low level signal. If you don't have problems now, (speaker buzz/cut out/...) I think it should work fine.

The rear fuse box post may work but the right way would be to go to the battery. Plus then you'll be ready for future upgrades!
I think if you'd rephrase your question and ask how the best way to wire your amp is, I think Andrew would agree to the battery.
 

RZAwora

Original poster
Member
Apr 15, 2012
196
MAY03LT said:
Personally I think a lot of the conflicting posts were due to us having two different bose systems, lux and non-lux.



What's the rms rating? Some members have run 500wrms amplifiers off of that post.

I kind of figured you'd be the one to chime in...thanks bro. I think I'm just going to go ahead and run the power from the battery. This amp is a Rockford Fosgate Punch Power 500m. It looks like it is 500w RMS according to the specs I found here. I bought this thing back in 97 or 98 probably. I may wire the thing up to the rear post originally just to see how it sounds, and if I like it then go ahead and run the wiring correctly.
My main concern is getting a good signal to it. I've had bad experiences in the past with LOC's and noise. I'm not sure if they've gotten better, but to me the logic of soldering into the low-level signal and sending it to the amp just made more sense. I just read conflicting results is all. I guess it's one of those things you just have to find out for yourself. I think I'm going to give it a shot this upcoming weekend and see what happens.
If I got it correct I have the non-LUX in an 06 Envoy Denali, correct? Do you think this would give me a good signal to the amp (tapping into low-level w/ RCA's)? I know it would be best to change the H/U but I'm just not that into it right now, just looking for a little extra. Or do you think I would be better off installing an LOC to the front door outputs after the amp?
Also, drew, any good places to buy amp kit, or power/ground wiring around here or better to order off the internet?
 

RZAwora

Original poster
Member
Apr 15, 2012
196
Black LT said:
My set up is different, but I would'nt be afraid to tap into the low level signal. If you don't have problems now, (speaker buzz/cut out/...) I think it should work fine.

The rear fuse box post may work but the right way would be to go to the battery. Plus then you'll be ready for future upgrades!
I think if you'd rephrase your question and ask how the best way to wire your amp is, I think Andrew would agree to the battery.

Yeah I agree, wiring to the battery is a must. Plus with this amp being so old, I don't think it's as power efficient as the newer ones, I'm sure it's probably power hungry after reading the specs I just read.
 

MAY03LT

Member
Nov 18, 2011
3,425
Delmarva
rzawora said:
I guess it's one of those things you just have to find out for yourself. I think I'm going to give it a shot this upcoming weekend and see what happens.

Yeah that's probably best. I don't do many audio upgrades to vehicles that keep the OEM stuff. I did add an amp to one of these that kept factory bose/nav and went the PAC route when I did that.

Also, drew, any good places to buy amp kit, or power/ground wiring around here or better to order off the internet?

Internet for sure. I know everyone has bills to pay but that one big store down here wanted $8/ft for some sh*tty 1/0. **** them.

BTW thanks for the link, that is a sweet amp.:drooling:

Black LT said:
I think Andrew would agree to the battery.

Absolutely.
 

RZAwora

Original poster
Member
Apr 15, 2012
196
Okay, so for starters, I wouldn't recommend just soldering RCA's to the low-level inputs to the Bose amp, lots of noise and not a great signal. However, if using a LOC, it is better sound if you connect the LOC to the low-level wires before the amp rather than the outputs to the speakers after the amp. So, I got the LOC installed and mounted in the storage box where the compressor hook up is...easy access for adjusting levels if needed.
View attachment 20611
Then I figured out my old sub and amp just wouldn't be enough, so I purchase something new...:yes:
Ran the amp wiring very similar to Black LT's instructions on the OS...
View attachment 20612
Ran remote from an add-a-fuse in the rear fuse box under the driver side rear seat. This also powers the LED's that light up the subs.
Grounded to the right rear cargo bolt under the carpeting after sanding down the paint.
Mounted the amp in the rear storage area underneath the latched cover. I did this so I would easily be able to remove the subs if I needed the space for something.
View attachment 20613
All in all I'm very happy with the final product, and I'm producing some killer sound with this setup from the factory head unit...I'm sure glad I put that AUX jack in a couple weeks back. I can really put it to use now! :wootwoot:
View attachment 20614
Infinity Reference 1600A pushing 600w RMS @ 2ohm
Infinity Reference 1220DE - dual 12" sub enclosure

It's definitely giving me the extra thump I was looking for... :thumbsup:
Thanks for the help everyone!
 

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Black LT

Member
Dec 4, 2011
211
Awesome. Glad ya got it working. Was going to ask what was on the top of the box - then I checked out the link and saw it's a port.
Looking good.





I can't figure why the signal from the radio would not be clean, but now we know not to recommend that.





Just for future reference, with the 05 and later, you can use the pink wire at the amp for the remote on.
 

Gump2773

Member
Feb 21, 2012
147
See here i go again... I have my 1200.1 hooked up to the post under the rear seat. From the sounds of this thread, I should'nt be doing this?
 

RZAwora

Original poster
Member
Apr 15, 2012
196
BlackLT-
I knew about that for the remote wire, but since the subs also have lighting on them I just felt better running them from the fuse box (rear wiper fuse, don't remember the #...29 I think). Also this keeps all power on one side and signal on the other side of the truck.
I'm not sure why the RCA's soldered right up didn't work either. I was using a cheap set since I didn't want to cut into my good ones until I knew it would work, not sure if that had something to do with it. Even the LOC I got was an inexpensive passive model from Advance, but it's working well, and I'm happy.

Gump-
Definitely wouldn't recommend running your amp from there, but to each his own. My thought would be that it's starving for power but who knows. Just make sure you have a fuse on it still. I will say though, running power from the battery back is really an easy project that takes an hour or two at the max. The total cost to do it properly is not bad either, +/- $50 depending which amp kit you purchase.
 

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