I have a 2006 Envoy, with onstar and bose. my previous headunit died so i put in a JVC. My problem is that the headunit wont turn on after i start the car. it still gets power as i can eject cds and can illuminate the face. the weird part is that if i just turn the key to run, it will work just fine. i disconnected the onstar computer under the passenger rear seat a couple years ago when the first h/u (another JVC) started acting up (advice i received on the dreaded other site). im wondering if this could be part of the problem? i tried reconnecting it but it didnt immediately work, so i unplugged it again. is this one of those things that needs a period of time for the main cpu to recognize again? Its got the harness adapter for aftermarket H/U's already installed. I am completely stumped on this one guys, so i need help. my wife is going to kill me if she has to go another day without music. I cant take it to a shop as i am stationed on a tiny island in the middle of the atlantic and there simply arent any shops here. thanks in advance for any help. let me know if im leaving any info out...
Help with Envoy Stereo! Won't stay on
- Thread starter 2006_Envoy
- Start date
Man that is weird. Since the deck will work in "run", a lot of things are ruled out. The deck is ejecting CDs/lighting up because the memory lead (yellow wire) always has power. Some decks have that feature in case you want to grab a CD without turning the deck back on. The adapter turns on the switched power lead (red wire) which allows the radio to turn on/off. The adapter reads the vehicles data messages to determine when to turn on the power lead. I suspect that the adapter is having a problem turning on/off/on the power lead when the key goes from run/start/run. There is no way to read the inputs that the adapter sees, so an adapter swap is the best starting point.
If you want to avoid a hostile wife, you can do a temporary rewire to get the radio working until you can get another adapter to swap in. You'll lose chimes and retained accessory power (RAP) by bypassing the adapter but it might be better then the alternative!
Is this something that you're willing to try? You'll need some basic tools and a small run of 14g wire.
If you want to avoid a hostile wife, you can do a temporary rewire to get the radio working until you can get another adapter to swap in. You'll lose chimes and retained accessory power (RAP) by bypassing the adapter but it might be better then the alternative!
Is this something that you're willing to try? You'll need some basic tools and a small run of 14g wire.
MAY03LT said:
yeah I'm totally willing to try that. i honestly don't care for the chime anyways. what do you mean by retained accessory power? Does that have anything to do with station memory and all that jazz? In all honesty, i wouldnt mind just hardwiring the damn thing in and not worrying about it anymore. Show me the way good sir
gmac310
Member
- Dec 4, 2011
- 174
2006_Envoy said:yeah I'm totally willing to try that. i honestly don't care for the chime anyways. what do you mean by retained accessory power? Does that have anything to do with station memory and all that jazz? In all honesty, i wouldnt mind just hardwiring the damn thing in and not worrying about it anymore. Show me the way good sir
No, RAP (retained accessory power) is what keeps the radio going when you shut off the truck and shuts it off when you open the door.
2006_Envoy said:yeah I'm totally willing to try that. i honestly don't care for the chime anyways. what do you mean by retained accessory power? Does that have anything to do with station memory and all that jazz? In all honesty, i wouldnt mind just hardwiring the damn thing in and not worrying about it anymore. Show me the way good sir
There is a switched B+ lead in the steering column harness. The trim pieces and metal bracket under the steering wheel have to come off to get to it. It's the heavy gauge PINK wire (C6 in the pic). This is the wire that you can tap and wire to the radios red wire. That wire is an important circuit, so it's important that it doesn't get cut. What I do is use a razor blade to cut about 1" of the insulation off. I take a small pick and make a gap in the wire. Then I'll take a piece of 14g wire, strip about 1 1/4" from it, feed it through the gap, twist, solder, and tape. It will look something like this:
After that connection is made, run the 14g wire over to the radio and tie it directly into radios red wire.
Another member made an interesting point...if the only problem with the adapter is the switched lead, it might be possible to leave the adapter plugged in (with the adapters red wire unhooked/taped up) to keep the chimes. I have not tried this, but it makes me wonder if it would work.
Thanks for the help MAYO. Talked it over with the ball and chain and she actually wants to try going with a new harness. Could be due to the fact she's going back to the states for a couple of weeks and won't have to deal with the no tunes issue. Do you have a recommendation on where to source a new harness from?