Having troubles - need diagnostic help

WarGawd

Original poster
Member
Sep 2, 2012
468
Searching threads has not helped, partly because people's descriptions of the same problem varies, and partly because none seem to be similar to mine. I'm also getting more and more pressured for time as Fall progresses to winter, but my maintenance/repair list seems to keep growing (P0128 hit me again tonite, ECT and T-stat gotta be done, driveline/brake/coolant/power steering fluids on the list, stepper motors arrived yesterday). {off topic but related to time pressure, I just bought myself a new Nikon D7000 and I have two weeks to excercise it and decide whether to keep or return it. And I'm still working 6 nights a week...Sunday is gonna be busy!}

So I gotta throw a pile of symptoms out there and hope for some feedback that points me in the right direction(s) with the right priorities, just be aware that I believe I have 2 or more issues, so these observations may or not be related to each other.

First, several weeks back I did a couple 0-90mph video runs to post in another thread. At the end of the run, I heard a low speed squeak from the rear up to about 10mph. Truck was in 2Hi, squeaky noise was proportional to tire rotational speed. Application of the e-brake altered and or eliminated the noise depending on pressure applied. Application of the brake pedal did not seem to have the same effect. This same noise occurs rarely under most circumstances, yet very consistently appears as I drive up a slight ramp into the parking lot where I work. I would say that it happens at that spot 30% of the times (may be more, sometimes windows are closed or stereo is cranked). I do have this recorded, will post video later.

At the time of first occurrence I mentally chalked it up as a pad/rotor/ebrake isssue to be looked into further when I could replicate the problem more consistently.

Second, in the 9000km I have driven this truck since July, I have noticed possibly a dozen occurrences of a mild clunking when I transition from a state of coasting/deceleration, to some mid range acceleration (eg approaching a light which then turns green). Some thread searching seemed to turn up a few descriptions of gear lash issues, and thrust bearing something or other that I can't recall ATM, however it didn't really fit my perceptions closely, and my own gut was leading me to think u-joints.

Third, about 2 weeks ago, while cruising on the highway at 94kmh (always the speed I drive in 80km/h limit zones). I noticed a slight intermittent vibration creeping up through the floor pan under my feet. Could be felt through accelerator pedal but not through steering wheel. It was newly paved road, and I recall thinking/feeling like my front left tire had hit a short sticky patch of tar or something. Ever so much the slightest feel of resistance. For a mental image imagine driving with only your left front tire hitting the rumble strips on the side of some roads, except much smaller than normal. I tried to pay attention to what happened as I varied my speed +/- 10km/h from there. Seemed not to make a difference. Winds were gusting from right to left, and I thought I was picking up a pattern where if the gust came stronger I would feel this vibration. Trip ended, couldn't conclude anything, but had thoughts of a possible loose heat shield or backing plate catching wind and vibrating, but decided that can't account for the very mild feeling of resistance from the front left. Started thinking wheel bearing, but until the last few days, I had no other evidence supporting that.

Then a few days ago, some stupid kid rode his bike right in front of me and I had to brake heavily. At some slow speed just before full stop (say 10mph and less) I heard and felt grinding that was similar to what I'd had with a bad bearing on my Toronado many years ago. Gut feel again was front left. I was able to replicate that once or twice in the parking lot, but not since. It also had a similar feel to what completely worn out pads feel like when grinding on the rotor, but without the accompanying noise or brake pedal feedback. Front rotors and pads had been done by selling dealer just before my purchase, and although I haven't closely inspected the pads, it's clear from a distance that the rotors are not gouged/marked etc.

As a last comment on this vibe thru floorpan issue, I have done a lot more highway driving lately, and I feel like I'm noticing it pretty consistently at most normal highway speeds, but during a recent 160 km return trip out of town, I was clipping along anywhere between 120 and 140 and didn't seem to pick it up...

And finally, during the last few days I began to notice what I would describe as singing from my rotors under light brake pedal application at low speed. Same sound as running a finger along the rim of a crystal glass, definitely differently pitched from normal cheapo brake pad squeal.

So there ya go. I'm chasing my tail in circles trying to figure out some of these things :crazy: :confused: :undecided:, have little time to get bogged down exhaustively searching threads and want to get this stuff dealt with before winter.

Throw out your thoughts/experience/WAGS

Thx :smile:
 

The_Roadie

Lifetime VIP Donor
Member
Nov 19, 2011
9,957
Portland, OR
Did I miss where you posted the total mileage on the truck?

If it's over 100K miles, it's overdue for fluids especially the transfer case. Given any driveline noise, I'd also do the differentials, and measure what comes out to see if they had been running low.

You can defer the u-joint clunking, as long as it doesn't get too much worse before spring.

You may be overthinking the ebrake noise. It doesn't matter WHAT it sounds like or HOW you drive that creates the noise. Something's broken or out of position in there and there's no alternative than pulling the rotors and inspecting and wiggling everything. You said: "At the time of first occurrence I mentally chalked it up as a pad/rotor/ebrake isssue to be looked into further when I could replicate the problem more consistently." If it's made any odd noises in the recent past, you might be able to spot shiny or scuffed edges on parts like the brake shoes or adjuster that's moving out of place, even if it moves back to a good spot and doesn't currently make noise. You don't have to always catch things in the act of misbehaving to see evidence that they are bad. Play Sherlock Holmes. It's my favorite pastime.

Same thing in the front. Depending on the mileage, it may just be time for hubs. So swap 'em. Less likely is CV shafts.

Singing brakes could just need some anti-squeal goop on the back of the pads.

For more reading on my philosophy of troubleshooting:

[PDF]http://www.roadie.org/BCRules.pdf[/PDF]
 

WarGawd

Original poster
Member
Sep 2, 2012
468
Ok roadie, thanks. Will review that file. And yes I neglected to post the mileage here in this thread...bought July 7th @ 106,000 miles - have put just over 5k miles on it since.

Unsure of any previous service history, so ALL fluids are getting changed. I would probably have done those already, except a whiny tranny noise at say 3k+ rpm under acceleration had me a little reluctant to drop the pan, do the flush and filter change only to discover later that I might have to repeat the process to diagnose/correct the whine (Best price I can find for 15L of DexVI approaches $85 around here). When I can find a few extra minutes sometime in the next 24 hrs, I'll post recording of that whine for people to hear.

On my way out to pick up the rest of my list of stuff I need for Sunday, after that I will pull the wheels and see what there is to be seen. Will update post with any info/pics/video sometime in the next 24 hrs.

Thanx again :smile:

EDIT: I also was reluctant to go changing a pile of things all at once, makes determination of root cause difficult if one changes multiple variables simultaneously. Back home now with ~$450 worth of parts/fluids/trolley jack & 4 stands..wheels coming off in 15 minutes....
 

JerryIrons

Member
Dec 20, 2011
434
If you were able to alter that noise by using your emergency brake I would bet you have e-brake hardware that is broken, misaligned etc, you will need to pull off the rotors and look at them. The cable itself can squeak, mine does right near the rotor there is a metal clip that can rub, it's in plain sight and I lube it up now and then.

I like the carlton rules nice!
 

CaptainXL

Member
Dec 4, 2011
2,445
Let me just say that at 100K miles (living in the northern salt states) my brake system needed to be completely refurbished from the ground up including replacing rotors, pads, shims, antivibration clips, new drums on rear, flush brake fluid,...you name it, it was changed. My rear axle seals were also shot so I replaced them as well. The rears were a holy mess. Since the rear seals were leaking I had caked on sludge throughout my e-brake shoes and let me tell ya that's a mess in itself trying to use 4 cans of brake cleaner per axle to soak and clean them sumbitches off. Some mechanic decided it was a good idea to smear some silicone grease around the axle tubes to try an keep the diff fluid from coming out around the seals. Lo and behold it went everywhere.

Since brakes are the primary safety feature of the truck I would check all four of them promptly and also check your differential fluid and leaks. Make sure at 100K that the diff and transfer case have been done.
 

WarGawd

Original poster
Member
Sep 2, 2012
468
JerryIrons said:
If you were able to alter that noise by using your emergency brake I would bet you have e-brake hardware that is broken, misaligned etc, you will need to pull off the rotors and look at them. The cable itself can squeak, mine does right near the rotor there is a metal clip that can rub, it's in plain sight and I lube it up now and then.

I like the carlton rules nice!

Thanx, and I like that troubleshooting summary too. Common sense but never hurts to be reminded of it now and then. FYI this is my first vehicle that had 4 wheel discs - by contrast my '68 Newport 440 had 4 wheel drums!! Anyway, not up to snuff yet on how e-brake works yet on disc brakes, but I guess I'll see soon.

It rained here all day, I have no garage - apartment living. On Sat I did manage to get the truck up and remove front left wheel, spent an hour doing decently thorough inspection. Almost everything looks in good shape except the lower strut mount bushing is cracked and the rear pad is MUCH thinner than the outer one. Rotor looks good, general condition fits with dealer claim of replacement just prior to purchase. Condition of caliper seems worse. Given imbalance of pad wear in supposedly 9000km, I'd guess the caliper could use replacement - was the same way with my Montana. I suspect the singing has to do with this pad, maybe the warning rivets?

Here's the cracked strut bushing looking up from underneath:

View attachment 23087

And it was a royal pain getting a shot of the inner pad, but this is pretty straight on looking forward from rear:

View attachment 23088

Other details: CV & half shaft boots are in great shape, my Toronado would eat these once a winter. No leaks evident anywhere. Sway bar link ends seem ok. Wheel turns freely in air, no play apparent in hub assy when wheel yanked left/right/up down. Backing plate has minor surface corrosion, very little flaking - good thickness and rigidity, so I can't see any connection there to the annoying highway vibe.

CaptainXL said:
Let me just say that at 100K miles (living in the northern salt states) my brake system needed to be completely refurbished from the ground up including replacing rotors, pads, shims, antivibration clips, new drums on rear, flush brake fluid,...you name it, it was changed. My rear axle seals were also shot so I replaced them as well. The rears were a holy mess. Since the rear seals were leaking I had caked on sludge throughout my e-brake shoes and let me tell ya that's a mess in itself trying to use 4 cans of brake cleaner per axle to soak and clean them sumbitches off. Some mechanic decided it was a good idea to smear some silicone grease around the axle tubes to try an keep the diff fluid from coming out around the seals. Lo and behold it went everywhere.

Since brakes are the primary safety feature of the truck I would check all four of them promptly and also check your differential fluid and leaks. Make sure at 100K that the diff and transfer case have been done.

While I had it up, I PB blasted the front diff fill and drain plugs, as well as the lower t-stat housing bolt. And the caliper bolts (might as well start now!!) and the brake line mount - it's looking worse for wear, an ounce of prevention now will go a long way. If I'd had more time before work I'd have lifted the front right for more room to get under and blast the transfer case plugs too. Oh and I noticed my oil pan drain plug cover panel is missing...

Captain - you referenced replacing rear drums...is that a typo or are there drums still somehow on the rear wheels for e-brake?

Guess that's the update for now...lemme know any thoughts and thx for the input
 

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WarGawd

Original poster
Member
Sep 2, 2012
468
Got the front right wheel off today, performed thorough inspection as done for front left. Mostly the same types of things observed. LCA strut bushing cracked, pads thin, but at least evenly matched on this side. That rotor is definitely harder to turn thru the pads with the wheel off compared with front left, but no noise.

Whoever did the replacement of the cracked exhaust manifold just prior to my purchase must have had trouble getting the O[SUB]2[/SUB] sensor out, because there's a torched cutout surrounding the new one (as well as a couple stainless steel bolts, guess they broke a few):

View attachment 23114

Other observations:

Right side sway bar link end kinda looks like it's never seen a grease gun - the other side had the "normal" grease coverage that had escaped from the seals

View attachment 23115

And I could be wrong but that sure looks like a new driveshaft to me, I wonder why:

View attachment 23117


Finally I also managed to knock the transfer case fluid change off my list. Was a dead simple job with just a 6" x 3/8 Allen wrench. Initial level was about 1/2" down from bottom of fill plug (thx May03LT for the tiewrap dipstick suggestion):


View attachment 23118

I'm a little curious about the "12L" marking just underneath the fill plug...wondering out loud if it's the original factory unit or rebuilt/replaced unit - any thoughts?

Turns out 2L of AutoTrac works out just perfect to accomodate the small amount of loss in my fluid pump hose, and still fill it to the point it just barely trickles out.


One or more rear wheels comin off tomorrow.
 

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JerryIrons

Member
Dec 20, 2011
434
CaptainXL said:
i call the rears drums but they are a hybrid rotor/drum setup. you'll see.

Yes you are right the rear brakes have disk brakes for the standard rear brakes, and then the inside of the rotor is a drum for the seperate emergency brake one piece shoe.

When you do a rear brake job and you replace ebrake stuff it's twice as expensive! Yay! :smile:
 

JerryIrons

Member
Dec 20, 2011
434
>>And I could be wrong but that sure looks like a new driveshaft to me, I wonder why:<<

For a long time my drive shaft looked just like that, brand spanking new while the rest of the vehicle aged ungracefully.
 

bravad'oh

Member
Sep 15, 2012
44
The dealer put on new rotors but left the old pads? Cheap bugger. I would not get to bent about the uneven pad wear on the one wheel. One pad is almost always thinner than the other. If your caliper is bad it won't retract after a brake aplication and will keep pressure on your pads. You should be noticing pulling to one side and heat at the affected wheel after driving. Make sure when replacing the pads that the sliding mount bolts of the caliper are free a lubricated with silicone grease. I always clean/sand the pad mounting bracket so the pads can slide in and out and lubricate the abuttment clips with never-seize.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
26,107
Ottawa, ON
JerryIrons said:
>>And I could be wrong but that sure looks like a new driveshaft to me, I wonder why:<<

For a long time my drive shaft looked just like that, brand spanking new while the rest of the vehicle aged ungracefully.

That's because they are aluminum. Mine is the same after 10 years.
 

WarGawd

Original poster
Member
Sep 2, 2012
468
bravad'oh;97872 said:
The dealer put on new rotors but left the old pads? Cheap bugger. I would not get to bent about the uneven pad wear on the one wheel. One pad is almost always thinner than the other. If your caliper is bad it won't retract after a brake aplication and will keep pressure on your pads. You should be noticing pulling to one side and heat at the affected wheel after driving. Make sure when replacing the pads that the sliding mount bolts of the caliper are free a lubricated with silicone grease. I always clean/sand the pad mounting bracket so the pads can slide in and out and lubricate the abuttment clips with never-seize.

My thoughts exactly, but it seems there's no other explanation.

I'm not getting any pulling, brakes dead straight even with my hands off the wheel.

So here's kinda how I see it, if anyone sees any flaws in my reasoning lemme know. On the front left, the big imbalance in pad wear with the inner (piston side) being far worse suggests the floating caliper isn't free to move easily, so the slider pins may be suspect. On the front right, even pad wear suggests the caliper has more freeedom to float side to side, but the pad drag when trying to turn the rotor means the piston is a bit sticky and not fully retracting.

Since it does seem like dealer replaced rotors and not pads (idiot?!?!?) I will do those soon - recommendations welcome (just be aware I'm really picky - while others are off making stereos loud enough to smash windows, I'm trying to make my vehicles into super quiet stealth ninjas).

OTOH calipers tend to be a bit pricey, I think I'll see what pad wear patterns are like over the winter, and evaluate caliper options in spring. The rotors themselves seem good, anybody see any issues with just throwing a new set of pads on the front? Also I recall from a thread I read some time ago a mention of some type of aftermarket pad retraction spring - anyone know what I'm talking about? Any merits to them?

Anti-seize or same grease as for slider pins? Can't even recall where I first learned of it, but anytime I did pads on the Montana I used a little grease.
 

jimmyjam

Member
Nov 18, 2011
1,634
WarGawd said:
OTOH calipers tend to be a bit pricey, I think I'll see what pad wear patterns are like over the winter, and evaluate caliper options in spring. The rotors themselves seem good, anybody see any issues with just throwing a new set of pads on the front? Also I recall from a thread I read some time ago a mention of some type of aftermarket pad retraction spring - anyone know what I'm talking about? Any merits to them?

Anti-seize or same grease as for slider pins? Can't even recall where I first learned of it, but anytime I did pads on the Montana I used a little grease.
rock auto sells overhaul parts for calipers. basically the soft parts: piston oring and piston boot. i always felt refurb calipers were a rip off, you're basically paying for someone to media blast a caliper and rebuild.

they only sell replacement pistons for the rear which are steel and get rusty. the front pistons i believe are aluminum coated with a teflon like substance, i guess they don't go bad that often because they don't offer aftermarket replacements. rock auto also has replacement caliper pins, if yours have developed rust i'd consider swapping them out.

i use synthetic brake and caliper grease when reassembling. i think regular petroleum grease is more likely to break down due to heat cycling.

as far as pad springs go, i've always just used the ones that come with the pads. i've found its a 50/50 chance they come with the top spacers. i always make sure to lube the pad plate contact surface, make sure the pad springs back freely
 

WarGawd

Original poster
Member
Sep 2, 2012
468
jimmyjam said:
rock auto sells overhaul parts for calipers. basically the soft parts: piston oring and piston boot. i always felt refurb calipers were a rip off, you're basically paying for someone to media blast a caliper and rebuild.

My concern with doing a rebuild myself is that it's been explained to me in the past that over time a slight ridge can develop from the piston sliding back and forth. Without ever looking into it further, I had assumed the o-ring was on the piston and that the ridge developed on the piston cylinder wall. But now I suspect I have that bass-ackwards. So any ridge devlopment would occurr on the actual piston. So if they don't sell pistons for the front, new calipers would be the way to go?


Oh and I found one reference to the aftermarket retraction springs - http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=3766599 not sure if those are the type you had in mind when you responded
 

CaptainXL

Member
Dec 4, 2011
2,445
WarGawd said:
My concern with doing a rebuild myself is that it's been explained to me in the past that over time a slight ridge can develop from the piston sliding back and forth. Without ever looking into it further, I had assumed the o-ring was on the piston and that the ridge developed on the piston cylinder wall. But now I suspect I have that bass-ackwards. So any ridge devlopment would occurr on the actual piston. So if they don't sell pistons for the front, new calipers would be the way to go?

You should never need new pistons. They don't wear. The square cut rubber o-ring is what wears.
 

McGMT

Member
Jun 17, 2012
621
CaptainXL said:
You should never need new pistons. They don't wear. The square cut rubber o-ring is what wears.

Exactly... Thats why you hone the bore not the piston....
 

jimmyjam

Member
Nov 18, 2011
1,634
apparently the front pistons are available from oreilleys auto parts in the event you did need them. i'd find it unlikely, its not like the pistons are moving like engine pistons, they are just moving a tiny bit every time you brake

as far as the drag springs go, i doubt those would budge the pad very much just based on their size but i don't know
 

bravad'oh

Member
Sep 15, 2012
44
WarGawd said:
My concern with doing a rebuild myself is that it's been explained to me in the past that over time a slight ridge can develop from the piston sliding back and forth. Without ever looking into it further, I had assumed the o-ring was on the piston and that the ridge developed on the piston cylinder wall. But now I suspect I have that bass-ackwards. So any ridge devlopment would occurr on the actual piston. So if they don't sell pistons for the front, new calipers would be the way to go?

"rebuilding" calipers is so simple you'll say wtf? thats it? Canada Parts online lists a kit that does both front calipers for $13. You can get it from any auto parts place for around the same but it does pay to price stuff at a few different ones. The mounting pins are about the same price but you would need two sets. Most often they just need to be cleaned and regreased. The silicone grease seems to last longer on the pins but I have always used anti-seize on the pad mounts. All I have ever done to the calipers is clean the rust/corrsion out the grooves and clean the piston. It's that crap that makes the ring squeeze too hard on the piston and causes it to bind.
 

JerryIrons

Member
Dec 20, 2011
434
I have an 06 4 wheel drive and I will bet money that the driveshaft is aluminum, it was just too shiny for too long.

Also when you have uneven brake pad wear, lube up those caliper bolts, you can use "brake caliper synthetic grease". It's a grease that is designed to work at higher temperatures. Actually today's regular synthetic grease might be ok as well but I have always used the caliper grease.

-Jerry
 

McGMT

Member
Jun 17, 2012
621
JerryIrons said:
I have an 06 4 wheel drive and I will bet money that the driveshaft is aluminum, it was just too shiny for too long.

Also when you have uneven brake pad wear, lube up those caliper bolts, you can use "brake caliper synthetic grease". It's a grease that is designed to work at higher temperatures. Actually today's regular synthetic grease might be ok as well but I have always used the caliper grease.

-Jerry


Maybe it is the EXT's then because I have an 06 4wd and mine is steel...
 

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