Grr! I hate this whining noise. Changing out power steering pump tomorrow!

[CaptainXL]

Changing it out. I have had this whining noise ever since owning it. Flushed the fluid completely but still making noise. I am particularly interested in the amount of available pressure provided to the rack and hoping for easier steering as well. Gonna let everyone know if its worth changing out even if not entirely failed but just making noise.

 

[91RS]

You sure it isn't the idler pulley? It sounds like power steering when the bearings go.

 

[CaptainXL]

You sure it isn't the idler pulley? It sounds like power steering when the bearings go.

Pretty sure. You can hear it whine at idle with my ear close. Already changed idler and tensioner pulleys.

 

[04xuv]

Pretty sure. You can hear it whine at idle with my ear close. Already changed idler and tensioner pulleys.

really high pitched whine? increases with rpm's? cause that's what i got. can't hear it at idle, but with some gas, its there. thought it might be the water pump, but haven't changed it yet. you don't have a video or audio by chance, do you?

 

[CaptainXL]

really high pitched whine? increases with rpm's? cause that's what i got. can't hear it at idle, but with some gas, its there. thought it might be the water pump, but haven't changed it yet. you don't have ayou don't have a video or audio by chance, do you?

Yes makes louder noise with increased rpms. Also you will get strange rpm fluctuations at idle when turning wheel. Noise would be worse at idle when turning wheel. You shouldnt hear anything when turning wheel at idle. I have a partial video to upload.

 

[CaptainXL]

Well its all done. Got a reman'd unit with resevoir from Advance Auto for about $49 with the RETMENOT123 coupon code. The pump was $69 so I had to add a wiper to put it over $75 so I could get my $30 off. The real work began after installing the new one because I had to bleed all of the old fluid before connecting the return line. Sadly I didn't have the wife around to help out with the camera. I had to go back and forth from cranking it over to adding fluid and checking the return line to see when the fluid got clean.

The first thing you need to do is disconnect the cooler line going to the pump and drain the old fluid first using a clear plastic line going to a suitable receptacle such as an oil pan. Then remove the old pump (its empty now) , r&r the pulley and install the new pump. When installing the pulley using the tool ( rent at AA for $40) you need to make sure the shaft is flush with the pulley. Things will get a bit messy swaping over the pulley to the new pump. I suggest nitril gloves and a bunch of rags. Then what you do is remove the plug from the high pressure outlet BEFORE installing the new pump, install pump with pulley and attach the high pressure line. Keep the cap on for the return line. Just keep the cap that came with the new unit on it. Dont hook up the return line at the pump just yet. Reinstall the belt. Put fluid in the new pump all the way to the top almost. Then get in the truck and press the gas pedal all the way down and hold it while you crank for 10 or so seconds. Dont let off the gas or else the truck will start and then you will have a damaged pump! Get out and check the resevoir and keep adding fluid. Keep doing the gas predal press and crank until its runs clear from the clear hose you have connected to the cooler line. It may take a few cycles of this. When the fluid is clear recheck the level and make sure its to the cold mark. When this is all done purging out the old fluid then you need to connect the return line to the cooler and then to the pump. To do this you just take the shipping cap off the pump inlet and hook up the hose and clamp. You will get some fluid on you so be quick in your connection when taking the shipping cap off! Then install the washer resevoir and air cleaner and your done. Don't forget to recheck the fluid after a few miles. Also don't forget to reconnect some wire looms you had to take off. Getting the washer pumps back in took a little practice but wasnt too bad. At least you didn't have to take off the washer lines. :blush:

I was extra clean doing all of this right down to cleaning off the installation tool and such. I also used some brake cleaner to clean off the area of the block and power steering mounting braket. There was a ton of caked on crud.

So far after initial testing it works great. Makes my steering wheel feel like it wants to center itself more. There is no more noise! Awesome. Thanks to all the tips here and from the vets that came from the OS. It took me 4 hours because I was extra clean, took my time and cleaned out the wiper fluid tank with some Clorox. Also cleaned up the underside where it sits and guaged a better look at the motor mount bolts. I will try to upload the video I made.

 

[The_Roadie]

Thanks for the details! If only you'd put your camera on a tripod somewhere that would have made a hilarious time-lapse video.

And I'm sure there's a few fuses like the fuel pump or the coil packs that can be removed to disable starting but not cranking.

 

[CaptainXL]

Thanks for the details! If only you'd put your camera on a tripod somewhere that would have made a hilarious time-lapse video.

And I'm sure there's a few fuses like the fuel pump or the coil packs that can be removed to disable starting but not cranking.

Hey no problem. Yeah I looked at the 30 amp ignition fuse but I said nah. I will just put it in clear flood mode. Basically does the same thing and cuts out the fuel injectors.

 

[CaptainXL]

Well I took it out for a drive again today after checking the fluid level. Everything seemed fine until I got on the road and starting turning at some intersections. It was harder to turn than when using the old pump by about twice the effort. Does anyone know if these things require a break-in period? I looked over the instructions that came with the new pump and it said something about changing over the flow control valve if the design was different. Could this be the issue or perhaps I got a lemon pump?

 

[CaptainXL]

Hey. Does anyone know what this piece of paper included with the new pump is saying? I'm assuming it means to use the original nut if it takes a smaller or larger size hose connection?
View attachment 21048

 

[infamouz]

When I replaced my pump not to long ago I had a simmilar paper, but it was so that I would know were the new o ring goes. Did they send you a replacement o ring too?

 

[CaptainXL]

When I replaced my pump not to long ago I had a simmilar paper, but it was so that I would know were the new o ring goes. Did they send you a replacement o ring too?

No I didn't replace the o-ring. I never took the valve apart on the new pump so I am assuming there was one already on it seeing how I don't have any leaks. Should i have used the old valve? It seems like the pressure is a bit low compared to my last pump which was making noise and had 120k on it.

 

[CaptainXL]

View attachment 21054Here's the other half of the notice.

 

[CaptainXL]

Heres the valve from the old pump. Do I swap these parts in the new pump? Will it change the pressure? View attachment 21053

 

[SAR85]

You could try switching the valve. Not to ask a stupid question, but did you bleed the system of air after installing the new pump?

 

[CaptainXL]

You could try switching the valve. Not to ask a stupid question, but did you bleed the system of air after installing the new pump?

Yes. There really is no method to purging the air from these pumps they are vane pumps so air is naturally purged when its running.

I am gonna switch the valves and see what happens. I don't see what harm it could do.

 

[CaptainXL]

I put the old nut on the new pump. Guess what? It works! :wootwoot:

Looking carefully at the nut on the old pump it has a bigger opening to allow more fluid to get pumped out. I must have a bigger steering gear or something than the swb trucks have. More fluid volume for a heavier truck or maybe tighter turning radius.

So I guess it goes to show you to never throw away those notes that are included with remanufactured parts.

 

[The_Roadie]

Good find! I know the LWB have a smaller pulley on the pump (the reason for the shorter serpentine belt) so the pump puts out more pressure at low speed you might need in a parking lot. But I'm not sure the rack is different.

My guess - the cheap reman pump came with the wrong insert.

 

[CaptainXL]

My guess - the cheap reman pump came with the wrong insert.

Yep. Had to swap inserts. It's been running good for the past few weeks towing a 5k trailer. It's even easier to steer and quieter than when I initially installed the pump. Must have needed some break-in time.

So bottom line is... Fenco power steering puimps appear to be good. We will see how long it lasts.

 

[CaptainXL]

Update. The Fenco pump is still going strong.

 

[Sparky]

Rereading this thread makes me think maybe my small whine I've always had could be my pump as well. Given I've already replaced both idle pulleys, alternator, and now the AC pulley (each of those having gotten loud and needing replaced but still always having a little bit of a whine) and my power steering stopped working a few weeks ago (then returned) it kinda makes sense. Now the weather is getting bad so I don't want to deal with it. Hopefully it stays OK until spring My lines are rusting too so I should replace them if/when I do the pump. And the cooler also I guess, since it has been bypassed since before I got the truck (I guess it rusted and sprung a leak).

 

[Denali n DOO]

Update. The Fenco pump is still going strong.

Is the Fenco pump still going strong? I think I have to replace mine and I was quoted on a Fenco @ $96 n $14 for core...

 

[neelskit]

I put the old nut on the new pump. Guess what? It works! :wootwoot:

Looking carefully at the nut on the old pump it has a bigger opening to allow more fluid to get pumped out. I must have a bigger steering gear or something than the swb trucks have. More fluid volume for a heavier truck or maybe tighter turning radius.

So I guess it goes to show you to never throw away those notes that are included with remanufactured parts.

After you installed the new pump, before going back to the old valve, did you still have a whining noise? I just replaced my power steering pump due to a leak at the shaft seal and a whining noise as well as the idle fluctuation you described. I replaced with the "EXT" designated pump and still have the whine. Steering feels fine- actually feels a little easier to turn the wheel than with the old pump. I already returned the core, so I'm out of luck with re-using the old valve. I primed the new pump by spinning the pulley by hand for several minutes before replacing the belt. There is no noticeable whine at idle with the steering wheel static, but as soon as you turn the wheel, the idle drops and whining is evident. The whine is fairly loud at 1500 RPM with even the slightest pull on the steering wheel. The new (re-manufactured) pump that I purchased did NOT come with any notes, only two new o-rings- one for the high pressure line fitting and the other for the reservoir fitting. Possible bad-new part?

 

[CaptainXL]

Is the Fenco pump still going strong? I think I have to replace mine and I was quoted on a Fenco @ $96 n $14 for core...

Yes. Still going strong after a year. No leaks. $96 seems high. Don't think I Payed that much.

After you installed the new pump, before going back to the old valve, did you still have a whining noise?

I just replaced my power steering pump due to a leak at the shaft seal and a whining noise as well as the idle fluctuation you described. I replaced with the "EXT" designated pump and still have the whine. Steering feels fine- actually feels a little easier to turn the wheel than with the old pump. I already returned the core, so I'm out of luck with re-using the old valve. I primed the new pump by spinning the pulley by hand for several minutes before replacing the belt. There is no noticeable whine at idle with the steering wheel static, but as soon as you turn the wheel, the idle drops and whining is evident. The whine is fairly loud at 1500 RPM with even the slightest pull on the steering wheel. The new (re-manufactured) pump that I purchased did NOT come with any notes, only two new o-rings- one for the high pressure line fitting and the other for the reservoir fitting. Possible bad-new part?

Well if memory serves the steering was worse when the valve parts werent swapped. It was harder to turn the wheel as if my front tires were flat. Its possible you got a remanned ext pump but no way to tell now unless you measure the orifice. I don't have any specs. The instructions that came with my fenco pump said to reuse the old valve/nut swap it over. Made a huge difference in feel. No difference in noise that I can remember. I still have a slight noise coming from the pump but it seems normal as it is drowned out pretty much with the other engine noise. But I no longer have the higher pitched whirring noise. And its not so much the valve that needs to be swapped over. The retaining nut is the key differentiator. The retaining nut has different sized holes that made the difference for me. The hole in the retaining nut is bigger for the ext/xl. Refer to the diagram way up ^ there.

 

[Denali n DOO]

I had my ps pump changed on wednesday, he used a Napa said he didn't like Fenco because he's seen too many fail. I was back on Friday complaining at the noise which he claims is air in the system, and he tried to get rid of all the air but it still whines. The whining noise is as I accelerate from a stop, almost sounds like an electric motor. I tried to video so you guys could hear it but the air sound muffles it pretty quick. It doesn't make a lot of noise moving the wheel but accelerate from stop and you can hear it, turn and accelerate and it's even louder. I'm gonna go back and get a OEM put in. I can't stand the noise it makes. I probably should have gotten the Fenco....

 

[CaptainXL]

Yeah. I would go with the fenco. The nice thing I like about it is that it has a lifetime warranty. After a year of service I wouldn't mind changing it again if it went out. Knock on wood.

And just an FYI..The remaining noise I hear is mostly from lock to lock when under heavy parking maneuvers. I believe this is normal. In comparison the factory pump made noise all the time. Its a big difference. The most important thing to keep in mind however is to make sure all the old fluid is gone before installing the new one. What I did was disconnect the cooler input line and kept filling the reservoir until it came clear. Went through one of those large half gallon (maybe a whole gallon) containers of power steering fluid to reach that point.

Also, check the condition of the p/s cooler behind the air dam. If the fins on it are heavily rusted it should be replaced as it won't be doing any good not cooling if air can't flow through it.

 

[xj2202009]

hi,
my pump is loud at idle, turning steering wheel enough to put a little pressure on it makes the whole truck vibrate and the wheels have not even turned, creeping at about 2 mph I feel the steering wheel pulling to the right. I come to a complete stop while holding the steering wheel then let go of it, it will turn to the right by itself. I replaced both tide-ends on each side then had an alignment done about a year go. I have the whining noise coming from it, the oil looks dark and smells burnt. I'm at 128K miles.
Should I just change the oil or just do both?

Does anyone have the Fenco part#?