Frame Rust / Weld Issue

ComputernerdBD

Original poster
Member
Aug 24, 2014
189
Hey everyone. Well one thing after another.... Just when I thought the truck only needed an oil change this time, when I took a look around the frame I was shocked by how much the rust increased. I noticed through the frame side tie down holes that the inside of the frame is peeling (and I was able to remove chips through the holes after hitting them with a screwdriver but they were fairly thin and did not result in holes in the frame), very small 1mm holes are starting to form around the inside of the rails where the body mounts are up front and I noticed the metal forming the leading edge of the weld under where the passenger side door was basically just rust and I can stick a screwdriver in it around 1mm but it isn't all the way through (shined a light in it and nothing). Otherwise the rest of the frame is great and has minimal to no surface rust. The rear axle has quite a bit but still solid and won't need too much wirebrushing to clean up. The driveshafts have been crusty since I got the car 4.5 years ago and two dealers said they were fine. I wonder how serious that weld really is....

Now I just got 6 quarts of the Eastwood Rubberized Rust Encapsulator to use on both of my truck frames (in addition to the aerosols I have left) since I noticed it doing a fairly good job on my old truck except the underside of the frame where the vehicle lift scraped away some of the paint before it cured. I think the quarts are the way to go especially in hard to reach places. Would it work to just wirebrush what I can on the Trailblazer, coat it with two coats on the frame, rear axle/suspension, between the outer frame and doors, control arms and then shoot paint into the frame holes where I can to get the internal parts coated where I picked pieces out so it stops rusting, and force some in that weld so it doesn't get worse? This truck only has 58,500 on it and I would hate for rust to claim it before high miles or mechanical failure... Especially since my 98 Jimmy with 133K has less rust. Thanks
 

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Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
26,023
Ottawa, ON
We have it pretty bad here too but they seem to use more salt in the USA for some reason.

I'd check by going on the frame with a pick-hammer and see if those tiny holes aren't actually bigger. Coating the frame just on the one side may just slow it down a little as it will continue to rust from inside out.

For doors and that, you can have it oil sprayed inside. You could also do that with the frame inside.
 
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ComputernerdBD

Original poster
Member
Aug 24, 2014
189
Agreed, also may not help that this truck spent most of its life next to the ocean right on the coast in Massachusetts. But seems on par for the age and it doesn't appear it was in a flood, when I went to the dealer to look at the driveshafts I looked at a Trailblazer on the lot locally and the same parts such as the driveshafts, power steering cooler, control arms and frame were rusted. I had to replace the cooler as it was already missing flakes of metal.

The holes seem to be just that, the metal seems fairly thick around the perimeter of it. So funny how I was talking about Eastwood and I find this: http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-internal-frame-coating-14oz-aerosol.html

Would something like this work even now if I chip off the loose stuff I can get to first or when is too late?

The door internals look great, I had the panels off recently and there was absolutely nothing but nonetheless maybe the same treatment is in order. Maybe I should do the same thing on both trucks with internal frame coating and paint the insides of the doors...

New photo attached, I was able to get a shot of part of the inside. It seems like mostly around the holes where salt and water can get in and collect. Would patching the holes be a bad idea after painting?

Also that frame weld - Is that something to be concerned about if it is not all the way through? Thanks
 

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Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
26,023
Ottawa, ON
If you were to patch/weld, I'd do that first, then treat it. On the inside of the frame, might have to flush it out as dirt and mud might have accumulated inside there.
 
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ComputernerdBD

Original poster
Member
Aug 24, 2014
189
Patch/weld right over where the two parts of the frame are welded together? You mean with a steel plate right over the weld even though it is not level? Then paint right over the repair? So if the existing metal is non-viable, welding within the opening is a no-go? Just curious about the repair options if needed.

With flushing it out what is the best way to do that without having water trapped in the frame? Do I need to drill holes in the bottom and then let water flow in via the side holes to remove loose dirt and rust? Thanks again
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
26,023
Ottawa, ON
For actual welding recommendations,I would talk to a welder. Hard to actually recommend something without seeing it in person.

For the flushing, do it early enough to allow it to dry. I haven't really looked at mine lately but there should be some drain holes because water does get in there.
 
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ComputernerdBD

Original poster
Member
Aug 24, 2014
189
I got an appointment for tomorrow to fix this locally. Went in for tire rotation and asked about this in case it was worse than I thought (it wasn't) and we put that off till tomorrow also.

Ok understood, in a couple weekends when I am off again for 3 days this truck is getting cleaned up and protected before a flake of snow hits the ground and the following weekend I am finishing the other truck up... Thanks again
 

northcreek

Member
Jan 15, 2012
3,374
WNY
GM advertises "high strength steel" in it's frames, I don't know what that is but, we had a Chevy 4x4 track truck(MX track) that had a frame that looked like Swiss cheese. I did everything to break that thing in half and it just wouldn't die.
Just saying, that looks can be, just that, "looks", these trucks structurally tend to be over built IMHO....Mike.
 
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