Found Grease on the Floor

fletch09

Original poster
Member
Nov 20, 2011
1,982
this morning after i backed out of the garage,
noticed a few spots of greyish grease on the floor.
upon further investigation it appears to be possibly coming from the
inner CV boot (closest to the engine)
i've been lifted for about 17,000 miles, which may have contributed to to early (?) failure.
Questions:
am i ok to drive it say around town until i can get it fixed? calling mon morning for an appointment. not sure if it's covered under ext. warranty.
should i go ahead and replace all boots at this time, since one has possibly failed?
what else should i be looking at? i'm @ 48,300 mi, should i go ahead and do the Transfer Case fluid change at this time or wait?
i don't fall under the severe duty catagory on the tranny. (the tranny was rebuit @ under 1,000 miles new. but thats another story)
the pic was taken while lying under the TB so it may look wierd (kinda reversed) all the silver speckly stuff is grease.
advise and suggestions welcome. thank you in advance
 

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The_Roadie

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Nov 19, 2011
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Portland, OR
It's totally safe to drive for hundreds of miles before it starts making noise and hundreds more before it snaps and everybody dies. Don't worry.

The warranty company will be looking for being lifted as a cause (it is) and should deny the claim if their contract doesn't exclude modifications like that. And you really don't need a new shaft yet. You could have any old mechanic add CV grease back into the boot if it isn't torn or contaminated inside, and then band it back up.

Did you consider adding 4" hose band clamps to the inner edge of the boot to avoid this? It's recommended for all lifted ones.

Yes - do the transfer case. Assume you're not doing it yourself?
 

fletch09

Original poster
Member
Nov 20, 2011
1,982
Update:
took it in to chevy dealer today, because i did not have the time to try it myself, as i am taking a trip (500 mi round trip) next week, and did not want to go w/o being fixed.
CV boot was just leaking, no tears or holes.
they replaced the boot assy @ N/C under my GM major guard warranty. :wootwoot:
other side was ok.
they never said any thing about being lifted. the mechanic did say it prob. leaked because of the angle.
might have helped that before i installed MarkMC's lift, i primed and painted it black so it's not as noticable,
also the mechanic that worked on it, i've known since he was in jr. high, and have had him work on my other vehicles as side jobs. :undecided:

also had the transfer case fluid change.
throwing the cost out there for those that can't or don't want to do it themselves:

"792K sycroshift 2" synthetic fluid $50.93
labor $28.00 + tax and "misc & hazmat" fees = $86.73

as far as the 4" hose clamp on the outer edge, is that "in place of" or "in addition to" the factory clamp ?
 

BRomanJr

Member
Dec 9, 2011
371
fletch09 said:
Update:
took it in to chevy dealer today, because i did not have the time to try it myself, as i am taking a trip (500 mi round trip) next week, and did not want to go w/o being fixed.
CV boot was just leaking, no tears or holes.
they replaced the boot assy @ N/C under my GM major guard warranty. :wootwoot:
other side was ok.
they never said any thing about being lifted. the mechanic did say it prob. leaked because of the angle.
might have helped that before i installed MarkMC's lift, i primed and painted it black so it's not as noticable,
also the mechanic that worked on it, i've known since he was in jr. high, and have had him work on my other vehicles as side jobs. :undecided:

also had the transfer case fluid change.
throwing the cost out there for those that can't or don't want to do it themselves:

"792K sycroshift 2" synthetic fluid $50.93
labor $28.00 + tax and "misc & hazmat" fees = $86.73

as far as the 4" hose clamp on the outer edge, is that "in place of" or "in addition to" the factory clamp ?

Did you check the cross-reference between AutoTrac 2 and the "792K sycroshift 2" Fluids?

AutoTrac 2 or exact equivalent is needed for the Transfer Case. Other Fluids will change the behavior of the Auto/4WD Clutch.


Also, the 4" clamp replaces the original clamp, the original location is the proper one.
 

fletch09

Original poster
Member
Nov 20, 2011
1,982
BRomanJr said:
Did you check the cross-reference between AutoTrac 2 and the "792K sycroshift 2" Fluids?

AutoTrac 2 or exact equivalent is needed for the Transfer Case. Other Fluids will change the behavior of the Auto/4WD Clutch.


Also, the 4" clamp replaces the original clamp, the original location is the proper one.

no i haven't, it's a chevy dealer so it may just be their part #. assuming they would only use "gm approved" stuff,
but will check it out further.
thank you
 

fletch09

Original poster
Member
Nov 20, 2011
1,982
the roadie said:
Unacceptable part substitution, and unacceptable price increase over the required GM 88900402 or 12378508 Auto Trak II fluid list price of $9/liter.

thank you. :hail:
will be contacting them to find out why they did not use the correct fluid.
will report back.
 

fletch09

Original poster
Member
Nov 20, 2011
1,982
update:
talked to dealer, they said they have been using this product for over 8 years w/o problems.
product is made by BG Products, Inc www.bgprod.com
contacted company and they e-mailed me a spec sheet. (see below)
in my searching, did not find a spec sheet for Auto Trac II to compare to.
dealer and bg prods stated that they will stand behind the use of this product in the t-case.
dealer uses it because they pob. make more money per bottle than AutoTracII. service writer stated that they make $10/ bottle.
so i got screwed on price. i know better for next time.
i guess my TB will be a "guinee pig" for this stuff, unless someone else has used it.
what might be some symptoms to keep an ear or eye out for that this stuff is not working properly?

it appears the scan may be hard to read. under Solutions it states:
"Compatible and suitable for use where GM Auto Trac I & II, GM Sycromesh.........are specified"
 

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The_Roadie

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Nov 19, 2011
9,957
Portland, OR
fletch09 said:
update:
talked to dealer, they said they have been using this product for over 8 years w/o problems.
No, they lie. Perhaps they have had no reported mechanical problems. They have an economic problem and an ethical one when they recommend a product NOT recommended by GM for the specific purpose, at a higher price that gives them nothing but additional unearned profit.
product is made by BG Products, Inc www.bgprod.com
contacted company and they e-mailed me a spec sheet. (see below)
in my searching, did not find a spec sheet for Auto Trac II to compare to.
dealer and bg prods stated that they will stand behind the use of this product in the t-case.
Irrelevant because it's not the one listed by GM, and they are a GM DEALER.
dealer uses it because they pob. make more money per bottle than AutoTracII.
Undoubtedly. They're crooks.
service writer stated that they make $10/ bottle.
Crooks.
so i got screwed on price. i know better for next time.
Next time should never involve that crooked dealer. Did I mention I think they're crooks and probably in violation of state mechanic ethics regulations? And GM contractual obligations?
i guess my TB will be a "guinee pig" for this stuff, unless someone else has used it.
Why? Get them to yank it and put in the right stuff and refund their overcharge and quit worrying. Or pay an honest mechanic to put in the right stuff and learn to do it yourself next time. Write them a demand letter for a refund if you don't want to go back. Copy GM. That is unethical behavior and I can't believe anybody would put up with it, or even pay for it in the first place. :confused:
 

fletch09

Original poster
Member
Nov 20, 2011
1,982
update:
after a discussion w/ the owner, Auto trac II put in, a refund for difference, and an apology.
luckily did not take it on my trip this weekend, ( not enough room for 6 people + luggage) so min. miles on the wrong fluid.
thank you to those that chimed in, and set me straight. :hail:
 

The_Roadie

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Nov 19, 2011
9,957
Portland, OR
fletch09 said:
thank you to those that chimed in, and set me straight. :hail:
Glad to help. I love it when I can instigate a fight and not be involved directly. :rotfl:

Seriously, people need to JUST SAY NO to being cheated by dishonest mechanics and especially dealers who think they can get away with it. Become a PILOT on the aircraft of your life, not a PASSENGER.

How else are you gonna develop into an old curmudgeon like me? :undecided:
 

fletch09

Original poster
Member
Nov 20, 2011
1,982
the roadie said:
Glad to help. I love it when I can instigate a fight and not be involved directly. :rotfl:

you were involved indirectly, i told them: "the roadie" said this is unacceptable, you owe me the right fluid and a refund.
if this doesn't happen, he will hack your computer system.
they said if the roadie says so, so let it be written.:raspberry:
 

fletch09

Original poster
Member
Nov 20, 2011
1,982
update:
while changing over to my summer rims, noticed pass. side throwing grease from inner boot.
dealer replaced under extended warranty again. :wootwoot:
so w/ 51,000 mi i have 2 new front shafts & boots.
was told, because of the lift, they won't be able to get them covered if it happens again.
a question for the lifted ones out there.
MarkMc's 3" lift
old boots lasted approx 50k mi. since new
it has been 20k mi since lift.
Barring damage from on/off road hazards, how long could i expect the new boots to last?
 

The_Roadie

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Nov 19, 2011
9,957
Portland, OR
fletch09 said:
Barring damage from on/off road hazards, how long could i expect the new boots to last?
Did your old boot tear at a flex fold, or just come loose? Did you put on the recommended 4" hose clamps to help the boots stay in place?

I've never had a CV shaft or boot last a long time, but usually because of trail debris/sticks. I just consider them a 2-year replacement item.
 

fletch09

Original poster
Member
Nov 20, 2011
1,982
both boots had tears in them. and since the dealer replaced them, no i have not done the 4" hose clamp.
come to think of it, the pass. side could have gotten torn while playing in deep snow last month.
there was not as much grease build up, as there was when the drivers side went.
 

Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
Stock height my truck got over 100k out of both CVs. The passenger one was starting to sling goo when I fixed the disconnect, so I replaced the CV then also. Replaced the driver side CV while I had everything apart to replace the outer seal on my front diff and the hub bearing at around 140k I think it was. It was OK but given the cost of a new part and the age and miles on the original part it just made sense to do it while everything was disassembled.

Lifted I know you can expect to replace them more often as they are constantly flexed instead of at a neutral position.
 

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