DRL Killer / Quad Hi-Beams - Idiot's Guide

[Droid]

DRL Killer / Quad Hi-Beams Idiot's Guide

First let me just say, I'm posting this because for my little brain to comprehend what i had to do for this mod, the video just helps me out A LOT!

I know everyone says just search, but a lot of the pictures for the old threads don't work, and i had to go across 3 forum sites and youtube to find everything i needed for this mod (At least to get to a place i understand it.) Soooo, Here is everything in one place, and its not old posts from 2005,06,07,08 that are incomplete.

Just to clarify, following these steps will work on your Trailblazer or your Envoy, any trim/style. This will KILL YOUR DRLs and KEEP YOUR AUTO ON. There is also optional Quad Hi-Beams with the second schematic.

PARTS LIST:

• Dorman Automotive Relay (12volts 30amps) part#84601
• 4 strands 16 AWG wire
• 2 crimp on wire taps (t taps)
• 2 butt connectors

All of this can be purchased at your local automotive store. With the exception of crimp on wire taps which for some god-awful reason none of the stores near me had, so i went to good ol' Home Depot and got a pack of em.

TOOL LIST:

• Wire Strippers
• Crimpers
• Electrical Tape

Here are the pictures/schematics:

View attachment 26580
View attachment 26581
View attachment 26582
View attachment 26583


Now the schematic is pretty easy to understand even if you are new to electrical work, but incase (like me) you would like to see someone show you a video of what exactly the wires look like and what needs to be done, here is a VIDEO!!!!!!

[video=youtube;03yr0dcyvsE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=03yr0dcyvsE[/video]


I figured instead of just doing mine and continuing on, I would gather this knowledge for everyone that is still needing this and/or having trouble.

I DID NOT UNIQUELY CREATE ANY OF THIS, IT IS GATHERED FROM SEVERAL FORUMS AND NOT MY OWN WORK.

AS WITH ANY MOD, ATTEMPT AT YOUR OWN RISK, AND PLEASE DISCONNECT THE BATTERY WHEN DOING ANY ELECTRICAL WORK, ITS JUST THE SMART THING TO DO!

 

[mrphoenix80]

So for my Quad beam headlights:
The pink/white wire pin A4 in connector C1(gray) at the bcm controls the low beams
The black/white wire pin A5 in same connector controls the highs. I added a diode between the 2. So that when the highs are on power flows through the diode to turn on the lows, but can't flow from the lows to turn on the highs. Simple
To install it I removed the Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) comb installed the diode, then tested. Found I had it backwards(so quad lows and 2 light highs) turned it around recheck ok. Reinstalled TPA. I have the leads on the diode so short that it is tucked inside the connector and you have to look for it to see it.

For the DRLs
I used the capicitor mod. I spliced in a cap with one end on the pink/white wire and the other on Ground. This allows the lows to function as DRLs at 100% brightness. It also retains perimeter lighting. IIRC it was a 10uF cap. (it's under the tape on the gray wire in the pic)

The reason I did these mods was so I could run HIDs. Because the DRLs and perminter lighting run at 70% pulse width modulation(PWM). Meaning that the light is on 70% of the time and off 30% in a short time window like on the 1/10 or 1/100 of a second range. But these pulses not only lower the RMS voltage but it also kills HID ballasts. I am guessing that the power occultation is a factor not just the low voltage.
I did the quads because I learned in my Jimmy that the warm up time of the HIDs when switching from low to high can be frighteningeek: OMG where did the road go)
Now come spring I want to remove the front panels and install a relay kits to power the HIDs. The under hood is begining to look like a spaghetti factory and I hate that.

 

[whatsup201178]

Since I live in a state with annual inspections and not knowing the laws regarding quad lighting I chose to install a switch just after the capacitor that is mounted in the plastic surround of the lower seat support. Now when I go for inspection I just turn the switch off and the lights work normal. Just a safe guard for those in states with annual inspections.

 

[mcsteven]

Since I live in a state with annual inspections and not knowing the laws regarding quad lighting I chose to install a switch just after the capacitor that is mounted in the plastic surround of the lower seat support. Now when I go for inspection I just turn the switch off and the lights work normal. Just a safe guard for those in states with annual inspections.

I like this idea, and if I do the quad I'm going to add it as well. But I'm going to move the switch either under the dash, or inside a shielded area of the arm rest. I like the idea of having access to it if law enforcement pulls you over for something else.

Man, my list of mod ideas is growing and growing and this is just some simple lighting.

 

[NinjuhhNutz]

mmmmm hmmmmmmmmmmm....it's the mod bug, bro
once it gets you, there's no escaping it don't resist...your efforts are futile lol trust me

 

[Darkrider_LS]

mmmmm hmmmmmmmmmmm....it's the mod bug, bro
once it gets you, there's no escaping it don't resist...your efforts are futile lol trust me

I do believe the mod bug has returned to my neck of the woods since im considering this drl killer mod or the cap mod at minimum....I have already debadged the hatch...cut the resonator off...will probably start on interior led mods soon.....ahhhh crap...im a gonner....

 

[dmanns67]

Cap mod is the way to go.

 

[Darkrider_LS]

Cap mod is the way to go.

Easier to do considerably...just tap the pink with white stripe with the wire that the resister is soldered into then bolt other end of wire to a ground..Done

 

[mcsteven]

Easier to do considerably...just tap the pink with white stripe with the wire that the resister is soldered into then bolt other end of wire to a ground..Done

Will the cap mod keep the auto lights? And with the cap mod, can you also do the quad? If these are true then I'm doing this one.

Thanks

 

[Darkrider_LS]

Will the cap mod keep the auto lights? And with the cap mod, can you also do the quad? If these are true then I'm doing this one.

Thanks

Cap mod will keep the lights functioning as they are now. All it does is makes the DRLs function at 100% power vs the stock 70% power to prevent burning up HID ballasts. The Quad mod is something else entirely.

 

[Envoy_04]

The mod bug is contagious, watch out!! I've got the DRLs killed with a relay at the BCM, and the auto-on lights still work at dusk. For high beams I've got all six of 'em on the front burning! Easiest way I've found to do the 4 or 6 high method is under the hood in the fuse box. Basically jump the power pins on the relays for the highs, lows, and driving lights, put in a couple diodes to make it only work one way, and viola! - super bright lights! Everything works as it did before, but the light output is awesome!

 

[dmanns67]

Cap mod will keep the lights functioning as they are now. All it does is makes the DRLs function at 100% power vs the stock 70% power to prevent burning up HID ballasts. The Quad mod is something else entirely.

It will prolong the life of the ballasts and bulbs. No more buzzing when you hit the unlock button at night from the ballasts. Also, both headlights will consistently fire up since you have 100% power all the time.

Best of all you keep the factory functions of the headlights and still have the option to turn the headlights off during the day with the headlight switch.

 

[Darkrider_LS]

It will prolong the life of the ballasts and bulbs. No more buzzing when you hit the unlock button at night from the ballasts. Also, both headlights will consistently fire up since you habe 100% power all the time.

Best of all you keep the factory functions of the headlights amd still have the option to turn the headlights off during the day with the headlight switch.

Forgot about it stopping the buzzing! I def need to see if i can find a resistor to do the cap mod..there is no radio shack here so im not sure who would stock them here where i live...i might need to see if my supplier for my hid products can get me some when i make a stock order...

 

[dmanns67]

Not a problem, can you order from Amazon.com? They have plenty of options.

 

[Don]

The mod bug is contagious, watch out!! I've got the DRLs killed with a relay at the BCM, and the auto-on lights still work at dusk. For high beams I've got all six of 'em on the front burning! Easiest way I've found to do the 4 or 6 high method is under the hood in the fuse box. Basically jump the power pins on the relays for the highs, lows, and driving lights, put in a couple diodes to make it only work one way, and viola! - super bright lights! Everything works as it did before, but the light output is awesome!

Can I get pics or a schematic of this? I looked and looked for a low beam relay to no avail in my fuse box,

 

[Envoy_04]

Can I get pics or a schematic of this? I looked and looked for a low beam relay to no avail in my fuse box,

GMTNation - Alternative method to add a 4 or 6 beam headlight setup

These are the instructions I followed, it says in the intro only for certain years and configurations, but it works on all the GMT 360s, as the author of the article pointed out later in the original thread that the article was written from. Hope this helps!

 

[Don]

GMTNation - Alternative method to add a 4 or 6 beam headlight setup

These are the instructions I followed, it says in the intro only for certain years and configurations, but it works on all the GMT 360s, as the author of the article pointed out later in the original thread that the article was written from. Hope this helps!

I have a 370, and no relay in the front.

 

[Blckshdw]

I have a 370, and no relay in the front.

You should. Take your front fuse block cover, and look on the inside of it. It should give you a layout and assignments for the different relays and fuses.

Edit: #46 Should be labelled "Headlamp Driver Module"

 

[Don]

You should. Take your front fuse block cover, and look on the inside of it. It should give you a layout and assignments for the different relays and fuses.

Edit: #46 Should be labelled "Headlamp Driver Module"

I will get pics tomorrow.

 

[mcsteven]

Can I get pics or a schematic of this? I looked and looked for a low beam relay to no avail in my fuse box,

Just a note (if you didn't get it from the photos): the poster and article writer are talking about the fuse box under the hood, not the fuse block under the dash.

Figured I'd open my mouth so folks know I'm still here

 

[Don]

Ok, #46 is the solid state relay. I think I was a bit confused by the pic that it was using the headlight washer relay for some odd reason. I got it done and also cleaned it up a bit when I soldered everything up, Thanks.

 

[Envoy_04]

Sweet!

They working?

 

[Don]

Sure are. Thanks.

 

[Envoy_04]

Sure are. Thanks.

 

[Mypetropig]

Just want to make sure I have this straight. After the DRL Killer relay mod if I want quad highs I go to the tan BCM connector and cut the F-10(green) cap one side and tap the other side to the E-4(yellow). Correct?

 

[Midnyteryder196]

Just want to make sure I have this straight. After the DRL Killer relay mod if I want quad highs I go to the tan BCM connector and cut the F-10(green) cap one side and tap the other side to the E-4(yellow). Correct?

if you want quads, it so much easier to do the diode mod with relays under the hood as previously mentioned. no cutting or splicing of wires, just a couple diodes, 3 pieces of wire and some solder and BAM.. 4 or as I have it 6 lights on high..

 

[Darkrider_LS]

The directions on here are a lil confusing. The pics show the setup for 6 high but not really clear for 4 high.

 

[Midnyteryder196]

The directions on here are a lil confusing. The pics show the setup for 6 high but not really clear for 4 high.

For the 4 high diode mod, just use one diode, and 2 pieces of wire, in the fuse block under hood. Solder the end of one of the wires to one side of the diode, then solder the end of the other wire to the other side of the diode. Take the wire from the side of diode with the silver stripe and wrap it around pin #85 of relay #43, now take the other wire and wrap it around pin #5 of relay #46. Now check and you should have 4 lights on high beam. Wrap the diode up in black tape and you are done.

 

[Darkrider_LS]

For the 4 high diode mod, just use one diode, and 2 pieces of wire, in the fuse block under hood. Solder the end of one of the wires to one side of the diode, then solder the end of the other wire to the other side of the diode. Take the wire from the side of diode with the silver stripe and wrap it around pin #85 of relay #43, now take the other wire and wrap it around pin #5 of relay #46. Now check and you should have 4 lights on high beam. Wrap the diode up in black tape and you are done.

Thanks for clearing that up!

 

[Midnyteryder196]

No problem :thumbup:

 

[Darkrider_LS]

No problem :thumbup:

Now the fun part....finding said diodes..and some resistors for the cap mod.

 

[am-radio]

What size diodes do people use? I've never seen any specs. Do the fogs work with both high and low beam? Is there a mod that works to keep DRL for us with Canadian trucks?

 

[Darkrider_LS]

What size diodes do people use? I've never seen any specs. Do the fogs work with both high and low beam? Is there a mod that works to keep DRL for us with Canadian trucks?

The cap mod allows for keeping the drls but thats for hids. The diode mod gives you 4 high.

 

[Envoy_04]

What size diodes do people use? I've never seen any specs. Do the fogs work with both high and low beam? Is there a mod that works to keep DRL for us with Canadian trucks?

These work well:

RadioShack

The fogs will come on with lows when you turn them on via the dash button like always, they'll come on by default when you switch the high beams on. If you do just the diode mod under the hood in the fuse box, the DRLs will still work.

 

[Midnyteryder196]

What size diodes do people use? I've never seen any specs. Do the fogs work with both high and low beam? Is there a mod that works to keep DRL for us with Canadian trucks?

That is the diode that I have used, works great. Fogs work both high and low, although you cannot switch fogs off on high, you can only turn them off on low. If you do the diode mod you will still have DRL and the AHL as factory.

 

[mcsteven]

OK, I've read pages and pages and pages of Cap mod vs DRL killer vs you name it. I'm hoping someone can send me in the right direction because I'm going nuts.

• I want to kill the DRL. No use of them (or connect them to the current high beams). I don't want to run them at 100% on the low beams because they come on before the car is started. I don't want to be doing that to the HID ballasts with each start.
• I would prefer (not a deal killer) the auto lights to still come on at darkness. If they don't I can turn on my lights.
• I'd like to keep the perimeter lighting, but again not a deal killer.
• I don't need to do the 4 or 6 lamp mod because I'm will be running HIDs in my fogs and HIDs in aux lights as well.

I apologize if I missed it, but the different pages (some sticky, some not) have older links (one has a DRL killer that you can buy, but the website isn't there any more) and it's a bit confusing.

Thank you folks.

 

[Midnyteryder196]

OK, I've read pages and pages and pages of Cap mod vs DRL killer vs you name it. I'm hoping someone can send me in the right direction because I'm going nuts.

• I want to kill the DRL. No use of them (or connect them to the current high beams). I don't want to run them at 100% on the low beams because they come on before the car is started. I don't want to be doing that to the HID ballasts with each start.
• I would prefer (not a deal killer) the auto lights to still come on at darkness. If they don't I can turn on my lights.
• I'd like to keep the perimeter lighting, but again not a deal killer.
• I don't need to do the 4 or 6 lamp mod because I'm will be running HIDs in my fogs and HIDs in aux lights as well.

I apologize if I missed it, but the different pages (some sticky, some not) have older links (one has a DRL killer that you can buy, but the website isn't there any more) and it's a bit confusing.

Thank you folks.

So u should reread the 1st post of this thread . . This is exactly how I have mine wired up and no DRL, but still have auto function. Only thing I lost I believe is when I hit my lock/unlock my headlights don't flash but park lights still do.

Really a great mod.. hope this helps!

 

[mcsteven]

So u should reread the 1st post of this thread . . This is exactly how I have mine wired up and no DRL, but still have auto function. Only thing I lost I believe is when I hit my lock/unlock my headlights don't flash but park lights still do.

Really a great mod.. hope this helps!

Ok. Perfect. Maybe I was getting confused with the second schematic right there for the quads. Buying parts tomorrow. Got to sand one of the lamp covers as it's got some oxidation.

 

[Limestone]

Guess I'll be the big idiot....lol I've tried it doing just quad and can't get it to work. Thought maybe diode got to hot soldering so I made another with butt splices. Same results no matter the variations. I'm using the diode recommended from this thread. Thanks all!

 

[Midnyteryder196]

For the 4 high diode mod, just use one diode, and 2 pieces of wire, in the fuse block under hood. Solder the end of one of the wires to one side of the diode, then solder the end of the other wire to the other side of the diode. Take the wire from the side of diode with the silver stripe and wrap it around pin #85 of relay #43, now take the other wire and wrap it around pin #5 of relay #46. Now check and you should have 4 lights on high beam. Wrap the diode up in black tape and you are done.

Guess I'll be the big idiot....lol I've tried it doing just quad and can't get it to work. Thought maybe diode got to hot soldering so I made another with butt splices. Same results no matter the variations. I'm using the diode recommended from this thread. Thanks all!

Did you make sure the silver band on diode was the right way? Also to the right pins of the relays?