Door Triggers

SteelCityFan

Well-Known Member
#1
Hi all, recently bought a viper 350 responder two-way alarm system. Bought the omega gmdlbp bybass module with it. Hooking everything up, we get to the door triggers and the wiring diagram says gray/black at "under dash light". not exactly sure where this is. Ive read several post of how you will have to wire each seperate door up with a diode then piggyback them on the alarm system. If this is the case could anyone provide the wiring colors that come out of the door gromets? several ive seen have said gray/black for the front driver, but i opened the gromet up and didnt see any of this color. Any input would be great :thumbsup:

Note: i plan on getting the expresskit gmdlbp, i know its the same, but the support is a lot better IMO and it has better instructions
 
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SteelCityFan

SteelCityFan

Well-Known Member
#2
i guess nobody had any input about the above situation? well i have another one that maybe you guys could help me solve, i hooked up my xpresskit gmdlbp bypass. Hooked the negative door unlock output from viper to negative door unlock input of bypass and did the same for the door lock wires. My problem though, i see someone else has used this module, i programmed the module and i got two horn honks which i thought was a good sign because the bypass worked, but i still have no functioning door locks. May03LT maybe provide some input or the person that used this module?
 

MAY03LT

Founding Member
Lifetime VIP Supporter
#3
SteelCityFan said:
i guess nobody had any input about the above situation?
When I read that you were going to get another bypass I decided to wait till you got it.

The GMDLBP will monitor the front doors and liftgate over the data wire. If it sees a door open it will ground the door trigger output which goes to the negative trigger of the alarm. Dome light won't work (without some work) because of the trucks delay so leave it unhooked.

For the rears, I grab the (-) triggers behind the bcm. Remove some of the insulation (don't cut the wire) and tie in your new lead. Those wires are like 20gauge so be easy on them.

LR door - lt blue/black stripe
RR door - lt green/black stripe

Each lead should have a 1N4001 diode wired in series. The striped side of the diode goes on the door side. After the diodes, they can be wired together and that single lead can be run up to the alarm (not the gmdlbp)

Door wire ----->---- [l diode] ------>-----to negative trigger input of alarm

They will each show ground with their door open. Here I have one lead of my meter hooked up to the positive fuse box stud, the other probing one of the back door triggers with the door open.



well i have another one that maybe you guys could help me solve, i hooked up my xpresskit gmdlbp bypass. Hooked the negative door unlock output from viper to negative door unlock input of bypass and did the same for the door lock wires.
My problem though, i see someone else has used this module, i programmed the module and i got two horn honks which i thought was a good sign because the bypass worked, but i still have no functioning door locks. May03LT maybe provide some input or the person that used this module?
Did you buy it used? If so, do a mode 7 reset first, even if it is still in #1 platform.

These things are a PITA to sync. The way I do them now is to plug in the module, then key on, hold program button, get the flashes, and hold programming again without making any changes with the fob. 8/10 times this works 50% of the time.:crazy:
 
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SteelCityFan

SteelCityFan

Well-Known Member
#4
No i bought it new from sonicelectronix. I meant on the forum someone else has used it lol, anyways when i hold down the button to get to step 7, it flashes like its supposed to, gives me two horn honks and then does nothing. I cant even get to the part where your supposed to go back in to get to step 7 to select the platform unless im just doing it wrong. I just want my door locks to work lol. I havent hooked up the door trigger wires, but this shouldnt have anything to do with it i wouldnt think. Am i supposed to unhook the data wire when trying to reprogram?
 

MAY03LT

Founding Member
Lifetime VIP Supporter
#5
Oh ok gotcha now. Try this next. Start the truck and see if the LED on the GMDLBP stays on or goes out. This will confirm the program status.

Hang in there dude we'll get it working.:cool:
 
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SteelCityFan

SteelCityFan

Well-Known Member
#6
Okay this is exactly what i did when i got my new module today. Took off the panel. cut the zip ties on my wire bundle that i made up so i could wire in the new harness and take out the old. wired the positive to the same constant positive that the viper is hooked up too. the ground to the same ground bolt the viper is hooked up to. Wired the unlock wire from bypass to the viper and same with the lock. wasnt getting anything. so i hooked up the data wire then started receiving one flash at a time. held the programming button it turned solid. then i started up the car and the LED went out and my horn honked twice. turned the car off and held the button and got the several flashes, but could do nothing afterwards. tried to unlock/lock nothing. Then i disconnected module, plugged back in. turned the key to on position the LED was solid again. started the car same process except no horn honk. then i held down button to program preferences, got the 3 seconds of flashing then horn honked twice. still nothing. tried this about 3 times then gave up because i got too frustrated lol. not trying to repeat myself just telling exactly what i did so we can try to troubleshoot.
 

MAY03LT

Founding Member
Lifetime VIP Supporter
#7
SteelCityFan said:
Okay this is exactly what i did when i got my new module today. Took off the panel. cut the zip ties on my wire bundle that i made up so i could wire in the new harness and take out the old. wired the positive to the same constant positive that the viper is hooked up too. the ground to the same ground bolt the viper is hooked up to. Wired the unlock wire from bypass to the viper and same with the lock. wasnt getting anything. so i hooked up the data wire then started receiving one flash at a time. held the programming button it turned solid. then i started up the car and the LED went out and my horn honked twice.
Everything sounds ok up to this point.:yes:

Does anything happen when you push lock/unlock with the remote? Do the parking lights flash? Do you hear any clicks from the 350?
 
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SteelCityFan

SteelCityFan

Well-Known Member
#8
When i push lock/unlock on remote it arms the 350 and the parking lights flash, but doesnt do anything with the doors. Also i havent listened for any clicks
 
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SteelCityFan

SteelCityFan

Well-Known Member
#9
And idk if i need to do anything different but i dont have factory key fobs
 

MAY03LT

Founding Member
Lifetime VIP Supporter
#10
SteelCityFan said:
When i push lock/unlock on remote it arms the 350 and the parking lights flash, but doesnt do anything with the doors. Also i havent listened for any clicks
Don't know how I missed this update. :redface:

SteelCityFan said:
And idk if i need to do anything different but i dont have factory key fobs
Nah, adding keyless has been verified to work with trucks that didn't have it.

So, we know the 350 is working, and the lock/unlock works on the fob.

The GMDLBP was programmed to the vehicle, can enter programming mode, but doesn't respond to the lock/unlock requests when in programming mode.

This leads me to believe that either the lock/unlock signals are not being received by the gmdlbp, or the gmdlbp is not acknowledging them.

If I was working on it, I would confirm that the lock/unlock signals are being sent from the 350. If you have or have access to a DMM, you can probe the 350 lock/unlock by putting the dmm black lead on the blue and the dmm red lead on the green (or vice versa, we only need to confirm one or the other) and hit lock or unlock with the fob. The DMM should briefly go to 12.x volts. -12.x volts is also acceptable, that just means the leads are reversed.

edit: I forgot that you had another GMDLBP. It might be faster to swap that in and see if it will respond to the programming changes.
 
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SteelCityFan

SteelCityFan

Well-Known Member
#11
okay ill try this and let you know if im getting lock signals from the 350 and ill post up in the next day or so and let you know whats going on!
 
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SteelCityFan

SteelCityFan

Well-Known Member
#12
Will 1N4007 diodes work for the door triggers?
 
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SteelCityFan

SteelCityFan

Well-Known Member
#13
Not to resurrect an old post, but I thought I had figured the problem out but just didn't have the time to work on it. I still couldn't get the second module to program right so I ordered a Fortin Evo-All, btw is a really nice product, and I got it programmed. I redid all of wiring connections and whenever I hit the locks there is still nothing happening. I was playing around with the door lock outputs from the fortin by-pass with my DMM and both the lock and unlock signals read a constant 12+ no matter whether I press the FOB or not. I am wondering if I am going to need to wire up a relay somehow to get this thing to work. The blue wire from the viper (instant door trigger zone 1) does lock and unlock the doors when the two wires from the fortin are first touched, but after this they do nothing. I dont know if i'm just not understanding the diagrams, or I'm overlooking something but I didn't think it would be this frustrating especially because I'm going to school for Electrical Engineering. :undecided: Here are links to both wiring diagrams incase anyone wants to take a look. Viper Fortin. Any help would greatly be appreciated so I can try and move on to my subwoofer install :thumbsup:.


On a side note, my driver side door control module (for power locks and the windows etc.) isn't working because of the faulty wiring issue thats going around with the recall right now, do you think this could effect why it isn't working at all? I have an appointment for next week to take it into the dealership I was just curious.
 

MAY03LT

Founding Member
Lifetime VIP Supporter
#14
SteelCityFan said:
I was playing around with the door lock outputs from the fortin by-pass with my DMM and both the lock and unlock signals read a constant 12+ no matter whether I press the FOB or not.
Try that test on the H2A and H2C on the viper. H2A (green) should pulse ground when locking, and H2C (blue) should pulse ground when unlocking.

H2A of the should be wired to A2 (purple) of the fortin.
H2C of the should be wired to A3 (purple/white) of the fortin.

When the viper fob is pushed to lock, it will pulse the green wire to the fortin, which will then use the data line to lock the truck. The same can be said for unlock on the blue wire.

Looking back at the thread, and todays update, I see where the confusion was. From the first post, it sounded like you were looking to add the rear door triggers, which would trip the alarm if the rear doors were opened when the system is armed. They have to be hardwired to the viper (-) door trigger. It seems now that the issue was getting the door locks to work.

SteelCityFan said:
On a side note, my driver side door control module (for power locks and the windows etc.) isn't working because of the faulty wiring issue thats going around with the recall right now, do you think this could effect why it isn't working at all? I have an appointment for next week to take it into the dealership I was just curious.
It won't unlock/lock the drivers door without the drivers door module. The other doors and the liftgate will lock/unlock normally.

Also, thanks for posting those links, it made things a little easier.:cool:
 
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SteelCityFan

SteelCityFan

Well-Known Member
#15
I'll try that way again, but that is how I had it set up and I had nothing, I will also check my connection at the OBDII. I'm starting to wonder if it is a bad module...
 
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SteelCityFan

SteelCityFan

Well-Known Member
#16
Well hooked everything up again and no dice, i did however nitice that i didnt hook up a wire that may be the issue idk heres the picture from the diagram, its a different green wire off the main harness View attachment 29329
 

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blazinlow89

Well-Known Member
#17
Not sure about the wiring from your alarm itself, I do remember when I did my install that the GMDLBP did almost all of the work. I also remember that programming was quick and easy. However my alarm had a separate harness for door locks, while the trigger was in the 20 pin harness. IIRC I only had to make about 6 connections to the truck not including power and grounds.

The Fortin is nice, when it works. Their customer service is horrendous and I have a good number to get a home of them if you ever need it. Thankfully sonicelectronix did an easy swap for a Fortin specifically for a Chrysler. 06 Ram RS install.
 

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