Curb rash repaired, now what?

[jmonica]

Hey Guys, I spent some time repairing the curb rash on my wheels. It came out OK, but now what can I coat them with? I have heard that just clear lacquer will make them look cloudy. I guess I could open the vault and buy a can of Sharkhide, but does that stuff really work? Has anyone had any experience with it? Thanks!

 

[Blckshdw]

That's great work man. Wouldn't even notice there was any damage

 

[TequilaWarrior]

 

[Reprise]

x2

I dunno what to put on them to protect them, but you really need to do a writeup on what you did to remove the rash. Those things look awesome, post-repair!

 

[Maverick6587]

There is chrome looking powder coat. If you get them cleared make sure it's not the stuff from a can. Just take them into a dealer/body shop and have them use higher end UV clear. The can clear coat is usually what ends up cloudy and/or yellow.

You did all the hard work. I wouldn't think it would cost more than $50-$100 to have them powder coated or cleared. Powder coat might cost a little bit more.

Here's a video where Chris Fix repairs some nice rims using can paint and clear.

 

[jmonica]

That's great work man. Wouldn't even notice there was any damage

Oh Thanks!

 

[jmonica]

Thanks everyone. It sounds like clear powder coat may be the way to go. I will check out his video. I've watched a bunch of them. He's so good at explaining stuff and doesn't waste your time repeating the same thing over and over like some of the videos posted.

 

[jmonica]

x2

I dunno what to put on them to protect them, but you really need to do a writeup on what you did to remove the rash. Those things look awesome, post-repair!

Wow thanks. Ok I will do one.

 

[hockeyman]

Powdercoating is probably the most durable finish you can do with those rims but it can be a bit expensive and (of course) the tires cannot be mounted during the baking process. Sharkhide is good stuff, but it does not last too long once submitted to the elements, especially if you use any kind of wheel cleaner to remove the brake dust. That'll just slowly dissolve the sharkhide away.

For the cheapest alternative, I'd recommend buying a spraycan of Spraymax 2K clear. It has to be activated just like regular automotive grade clearcoat, and is pretty durable once dry.
I'd recommend applying it as the tires are already mounted and balanced since most tire machines can -and will- roll against the lip of the rims and could quite possibly chip the clear finish off.
Potlife on that spraycan is about 48 hours, so it may be a good idea to buy 2 cans of it. Use one can for two rims, let properly dry, then activate the next can and repeat with the next two rims.
...just a suggestion though.

 

[hockeyman]

Oh, BTW, excellent job on clearing the curb rash up!!

 

[jmonica]

Powdercoating is probably the most durable finish you can do with those rims but it can be a bit expensive and (of course) the tires cannot be mounted during the baking process. Sharkhide is good stuff, but it does not last too long once submitted to the elements, especially if you use any kind of wheel cleaner to remove the brake dust. That'll just slowly dissolve the sharkhide away.

For the cheapest alternative, I'd recommend buying a spraycan of Spraymax 2K clear. It has to be activated just like regular automotive grade clearcoat, and is pretty durable once dry.
I'd recommend applying it as the tires are already mounted and balanced since most tire machines can -and will- roll against the lip of the rims and could quite possibly chip the clear finish off.
Potlife on that spraycan is about 48 hours, so it may be a good idea to buy 2 cans of it. Use one can for two rims, let properly dry, then activate the next can and repeat with the next two rims.
...just a suggestion though.

Thanks HockeyMan. I had painted the spoiler on my other car not too long ago with some automotive paint from touchup direct that came in a rattle can. I also purchased a couple of cans of their clear coat that I have one unused one left of so I think based on your recommendation I will give that a try. I have used other clear coats that were a two part product. I can't recall the name of the company at the moment but there was a button on the bottom of the can that you depressed to mix the clear coat before spraying. It sounds like that might be what you are referring to? I did removed all of the clear coat on the rims before I did the repair. Man the rims looked nice as soon as I took all of the clear off. The looked like brand new except for the curb rash. Thanks for your help. I will post pics as soon as I get them coated and ready to bolt back on.!

 

[Ilikemy3s]

Following ... any update? As mentioned before I would love to know how you got rid of the rash ?

 

[jmonica]

Following ... any update? As mentioned before I would love to know how you got rid of the rash ?

Hey sorry I haven't has much time to get on lately. Basic steps were.
Spray entire face of wheel with paint stripper (Rattle can from.Walfart).
Taped off areas i didnt want to scratch.
Then started hitting the worst areas with a metal file by hand. I also took down the parts of the edge without curb rash to try to even the entire outer edge as close as possible.
Once I hit the lowest level of the deepest scratches, I got a less course file, and then eventually on to I think 80 grit sand paper. > 120 > 220 > down to 800 I think and then just started polishing it. That's really all there was to it. I think i can attribute it coming out fairly well due to the fact that I sat there for a good hour or two and just took my time for once. It wasn't a fast process so I'd just take a 5 when my arm started giving out.
I was tempted to use a die grinder at first but the aluminum is too soft for that I thought, so I just had to put what little muscle I had into it and just start filing and sanding and on and on. Eventually got down to 800 grit, then scouring pad, then I used a polishing wheel on a corded drill that I have with some polishing rouge. Started empty the courses down to the finest rouge. Less is more with that stuff. The cordless drill was too slow. It wasn't cutting into the metal so I had to use the corded, but also not on full speed. You can watch and see what's happening. If you get the right speed, you will see the metal start to look hazy but removing the larger scratches. Sorry it's hard to explain. Just need to tinker with it until you get the right setup going.