cam actuator solenoid

[redbandit98]

my 02 envoy has an slight hesitation off idle when hot, and sometimes idles a little funny. It drives me nuts. Ive put new plugs in, cleaned the TB, ran injector cleaner through it etc. I noticed my CPAS plug had oil dripping off it so I decided just to order a new solenoid. I got the old one out and to my surprise it was pretty clean. The screens werent dirty but it did have some sort of plastic covers on it the new one didnt have. It looks to me like they are just there to block off certain ports on the solenoid. Is this maybe an old style of sensor? The new had all the ports exposed. It started up fine so I guess its ok.

edit..nevermind..im an idiot. Looks like they changed to a spiral spring to hold the screens in, the old one had plastic pieces holding it in.

 

[CaptainXL]

t did have some sort of plastic covers on it the new one didnt have. It looks to me like they are just there to block off certain ports on the solenoid. Is this maybe an old style of sensor? The new had all the ports exposed. It started up fine so I guess its ok.

The new one should have three screens on it. We recommend the a.c. delco cpas as the aftermarket ones have been known to fail either out of the box or shortly thereafter.

 

[Ed H]

Can someone confirm this is the correct part number - 12615873 ?

GMpartsdirect lists this as "camshaft sensor" for $34.25. I thought the camshaft sensor was mounted on the front of the motor, not behind the power steering pump. The price seems a little low for a CPAS, but that is not a bad thing.

 

[CaptainXL]

Can someone confirm this is the correct part number - 12615873 ?

GMpartsdirect lists this as "camshaft sensor" for $34.25. I thought the camshaft sensor was mounted on the front of the motor, not behind the power steering pump. The price seems a little low for a CPAS, but that is not a bad thing.

Yes. thats it. I got mine from GM Parts East which was the cheapest at the time. A quick search on Google Shopping will confirm that. I recommend you compare grand total with shipping before ordering. GM Parts Direct is known to have unabashedly high shipping costs.

http://www.gmpartseast.com/parts/gm-12615873_valve.html

Here is my order:

Item Description Shipped
Qty.
Unit
Price

Ext
Price
12615873
VALVE 1
38.25

38.25
Subtotal

$38.25
Tax

$0.00
UPS Ground

$11.91
Special Shipping Cost

$0.00

Total

$50.16

 

[redbandit98]

I got mine off fleabay from a gm dealer, 48 bucks shipped.

 

[redbandit98]

The new one should have three screens on it. We recommend the a.c. delco cpas as the aftermarket ones have been known to fail either out of the box or shortly thereafter.

Yes I got the delco one. It just threw me for a second. I guess the older ones had little black plastic inserts that held the screens in. The new one has some sort of spiral lock spring that retains them.

 

[JEvans]

After reading thru numerous posts on both forums and after my dash threw a SES on my 2002 LTZ I scanned the dac & come up with both the P1345e & P0340 codes. I reset the PCM & then popped the connector off the CPAS to find it filled with oil ! I have no clue why this happened because this is a sealed connector running to the PCM . I cleaned it & dryed it the best i could with cotton swabs & alchahol & reset the computer.
The engine started right up..no SES alerts & the HVAC actuators did their routine after the SUV warmed up.
My question is: Where is the oil coming from on this cam actuator ? The unit is sealed & I do not understand how it can be pumping oil up thru the connector ?
RSVP please.


J. evans

 

[The_Roadie]

Where is the oil coming from on this cam actuator ?

Inside the engine, through a leaking o-ring between the connector and the solenoid. The CPAS entire job is to adjust the flow of pressurized oil to vary the exhaust valve timing by way of the exhaust camshaft.

View attachment 23877

 

[JEvans]

Inside the engine, through a leaking o-ring between the connector and the solenoid. The CPAS entire job is to adjust the flow of pressurized oil to vary the exhaust valve timing by way of the exhaust camshaft.

View attachment 10513

Thank you Roadie....this explains it. I'm going to pull the oem module & change it out; probably do the cam & crank sensor at the same time. Sounds like a good idea. This TB running good from day 1 with 148,000 miles on it

je.

 

[AtlWrk]

Thank you Roadie....this explains it. I'm going to pull the oem module & change it out; probably do the cam & crank sensor at the same time. Sounds like a good idea. This TB running good from day 1 with 148,000 miles on it

je.

I would avoid changing the crank sensor unless there is a specific need for it. Doing so requires a CASE (Crank Angle Sensor Error) relearn procedure at the dealer ($$$) or finding a garage with a tech-2.

 

[JEvans]

I would avoid changing the crank sensor unless there is a specific need for it. Doing so requires a CASE (Crank Angle Sensor Error) relearn procedure at the dealer ($$$) or finding a garage with a tech-2.

Ok. I was considering not to change the crank sensor for this very reason. Though my scan tool is capable of resetting & clearing most all codes, i really don't want to push it.

I find that by leaving the serpentine belt on the pulleys I can manually turn the one large pulley in front of the PS assembly by hand, while holding forward pressure on the pry bar & belt tensioner. Then it is a simple matter of lining up the 3 pwr steering bolts with the holes in the pully. I mean this is so easy why take it off, unless the belt needs to be replaced ! {it looks new}

I change out the oil at +75% or every 4 months which ever comes first with Mobil1 Synthetic 5w/30 along with the Purlator Synthetic oil filter. i also replaced all 6 coil paks & swapped out the AC Delco plugs with the EFi PulseStar spark plugs. It hits on all 6 with a twist of the ignation key, & purrs like a kitten. It likes to be run out too, the more pedal you put to it the better it runs. 5000 rpms & it really sounds mellow. Like this suv thrives on what it was designed for !
(While i was at it I removed the throttle body too & cleaned it until it sparkles}
Great information Roadie & mayt !
Thanks guys

this site really rocks

je

 

[Dad-O-Matic]

EFi PulseStar spark plugs.

Shhh! Don't tell anyone but I have those too. Anything other than AC/Delco is considered a dirty word around here.

 

[JEvans]

Grrrrrrrrrrrr !

I pulled the 3 bolts as described from the pump/resvoir......it don't budge ! what next ?
It wasn't difficult getting to the 3 mounting bolts, but I am afraid to break something in trying to move the assembly aside to pull the CPAS ??
I got the whole week end to get this done, so time is on my side.
HELP ! iiiiiieeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

je

 

[CaptainXL]

Grrrrrrrrrrrr !

I pulled the 3 bolts as described from the pump/resvoir......it don't budge ! what next ?

Should come right off. If your not sure what to do next then i would get a CHILTON.

 

[JEvans]

Should come right off. If your not sure what to do next then i would get a CHILTON.

yep, it should but it tight. I have a chilton manual....I'll look into it.

Thanks.
this a week end project....Lol Well it turning into one anyhow.
I'll post my results when its done. I'm don't think this to be anything major. probably a fluke where it is mounted. Maybe never been loosened before. I know what to do once the assembly can be moved aside. The solenoid seems easy enough. Pretty straight forward.

jack

 

[Ed H]

If you mean the steering pump, try pushing it back. Mine dropped into my hands when I removed the 3rd bolt. Are you sure you removed the correct 3 bolts? They are at approximately 12 o'clock, 2 o'clock, and 7 o'clock. All 3 are 13-mm. I would give it a smack.

You did remove the belt from the pulley, right? (Sorry, had to ask).

 

[JEvans]

If you mean the steering pump, try pushing it back. Mine dropped into my hands when I removed the 3rd bolt. Are you sure you removed the correct 3 bolts? They are at approximately 12 o'clock, 2 o'clock, and 7 o'clock. All 3 are 13-mm. I would give it a smack.

You did remove the belt from the pulley, right? (Sorry, had to ask).

hey Ed,

Well, i only found the 3 bolts behind the pulley & i slapped a 1\2" socket to them....seem to be the right ones. Nope, did not remove the belt, just aligned the pulley holes to get at the bolts. so..............off comes the belt ! Ha. duh me ! I'm leery of the whole assembly falling off. Pulley and all. That is how it appears to me. The fluid lines remain attached & sealed right ? Does the pulley come off with the pump/resvoir as well ?

thanks for your reply

 

[Mypetropig]

The whole assembly will come off. No need to worry about the pulley or the lines coming off, just remove the 3 bolts and the serpentine belt and it will drop down out of your way.

 

[CaptainXL]

hey Ed,

Well, i only found the 3 bolts behind the pulley & i slapped a 1\2" socket to them....seem to be the right ones. Nope, did not remove the belt,

I was going to say hope you removed the belt first. Good thing you didn't hurt yourself. Read the Chilton.

 

[JEvans]

I was going to say hope you removed the belt first. Good thing you didn't hurt yourself. Read the Chilton.

ok, i do'd it myself......pretty straight forward. My chevy mech buddy suggested leaving the 2:00 clock bolt loose & remove the other two completely which i did. The pwr steering assembly swiveled easily out of the way. The 10mm mounting bolt for the cpas was a little snug, but the solenoid slid out with ease. It looked clean outside of the -o- ring being bad on the neck of the sensor. I replaced the unit anyhow & lubed the -o-ring lightly. & then tighened it snugly. no-more than wrist tight. I blew out the connector good & cleaned it again & then wrapped it with marine grade silicone tape.
The hard part was re-mounting the power steering pump. That was a job for me. But i got it back together....and I smooth as silk !
thank you guys.....you really helped ! I appreciate all of you.

je

my next job: the Valve cover & motor mounts

 

[JEvans]

I was going to say hope you removed the belt first. Good thing you didn't hurt yourself. Read the Chilton.

code PO1345 was the reason for replacing this solenoid in the first place. I found oil on the wire connector & someone said the internal oil ring was most likely worn & seeped oil into the plug on top. Not true ! The CPAS I removed was in itself fine, & did not need to be replaced. But I had everything taken apart, & I had purchased a new one anyhow last spring, so why not !
What i discovered to cause the code in the first place was a drop of oil from the over hanging dipstick, when ck'g the engine oil levels ! It dripped off the dip stick onto the CPAS connector & thereby threw the code !
problem solved !

je

 

[Gevans17]

The new one should have three screens on it. We recommend the a.c. delco cpas as the aftermarket ones have been known to fail either out of the box or shortly thereafter.

Used an aftermarket one from Rockauto.com as the o.e.m.s ones don't seem to be hoding up too well

 

[CaptainXL]

Used an aftermarket one from Rockauto.com as the o.e.m.s ones don't seem to be hoding up too well

Its a lack of maintenance that causes any cpas to fail. I've never seen an OEM cpas outright fail prematurely. Usually thick oil, engine sealer or sludge will cause problems with any cpas. The aftermarket ones especially Dorman have failed coming right from the box.
.

 

[Gevans17]

Its a lack of maintenance that causes any cpas to fail. I've never seen an OEM cpas outright fail prematurely. Usually thick oil, engine sealer or sludge will cause problems with any cpas. The aftermarket ones especially Dorman have failed coming right from the box.
.

Lighten up Francis. Its just my OPINION, based on my personal experience as the owner of 2 Trailblazers, both with FAILED GM CPASs. Not sure how you can know why every CPAS has failed, but maybe you can tell GM? And if anyone is DECEIVING the public, its GM. MAYBE someday they could step up and recall these things and fix the same parts that everyone on this board is complaining about again and again.

 

[Sparky]

Its a lack of maintenance that causes any cpas to fail. I've never seen an OEM cpas outright fail prematurely. Usually thick oil, engine sealer or sludge will cause problems with any cpas. The aftermarket ones especially Dorman have failed coming right from the box.

The fact that you put on a non OEM cpas before reading my warning does not mean you need to come up with a lame excuse to satisfy your ego and decieve the public.

Um cap'n, chill... no need to attack the guy.

 

[CaptainXL]

Um cap'n, chill... no need to attack the guy.

Ah yeah. Certainly didn't mean seem like I was attacking anyone. Sorry. Your entitled to use whatever parts you want.