both Upper Rear Control arm mounts rusted off

bspurloc

Original poster
Member
Dec 27, 2012
295
What are the chances of fixing this?
a quick search I did showed from frame sleeves to repair these but I didnt really read them as it was on my phone.
This car originally was used for boat launches so the rear area is just devastated by rust.
I had some frame repairs done 8years ago.

the rear upper control arm mounts near front of rear tires are completely rusted off the frame, right side is banging and left side should be but isnt.
I can physically move the control arm with my hand no effort so yes they are absolutely not attached to the frame lol, its all rusted and gone.
the other side of the control arm is fine and the lower ones are fine.
 

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Capote

Supporting Donor
Member
Jul 14, 2014
24,227
Atlanta, GA
Wow, that's the worst I've seen :eek:
@Sparky How'd your rust-bucket compare to this?
 

Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
Mine were rusting and had holes on the bottom part, but had never separated.

I don't know how you'd fix that...
 

Capote

Supporting Donor
Member
Jul 14, 2014
24,227
Atlanta, GA
Mine were rusting and had holes on the bottom part, but had never separated.

I don't know how you'd fix that...
Looks like it isn't really savable. Metal looks extremely flaky, denigrated, and thin. Maybe if the rust were only minor or surface something could be welded.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
26,027
Ottawa, ON
Somebody else here had a similar issue and was able to get it welded but I think it was just the external part and it was just cracked. Yours the internal frame part is also gone. It might be possible to get one cut out completely from a junker and welded onto yours but it may not be safe. A lot of work. And it would need to be exactly in the same spot or the alignment would be affected.
 

Reprise

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Jul 22, 2015
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It might be possible to get one cut out completely from a junker and welded onto yours but it may not be safe.

I think it could be 'safely' done, but I'd look for more than just someone with a welding machine (e.g.; a body shop, fabricator)
For that kind of cost (including sourcing the donor) - it might be time to say 'bye-bye' to that chassis. :sadcry:
 

Capote

Supporting Donor
Member
Jul 14, 2014
24,227
Atlanta, GA
Quite the predicament :blinkhuh:
 

bspurloc

Original poster
Member
Dec 27, 2012
295
sigh... I always knew rust was going to kill this car. 265,000 miles. I did not see this coming. I had my eye on the rear frame for awhile too. the spare tire area is rusted bad.
I just replaced all the front end control arms etc last year.
My daughter wants another Envoy but I've repaired so many "annoying" things on this car over years, i really dont want to go through all that again LOL...
There is a really Cheap 08 Envoy Denali she is eyeballing but that has the v8 and I dont know what plaques that engine. This i6 itself is pretty solid just not the stuff attached to it lol. damn oil pressure switch is flaking out again, I was cleaning it when I saw this.
course she claims to not heard the banging even though its louder than any other thing she has complained about over the years.
I just backed the car up and was like WTF?!?!?!
Her BF just bought a used 2012 acadia denali. It had some hidden issues prob why previous owner sold it as it impacted drive ability, and the dealer couldnt find what was wrong so I had to tell him and to fix it as it was still in warranty.
 

Reprise

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Jul 22, 2015
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Kill the AFM that'll be on the '08, and keep an eye on oil consumption afterward, and as long as there's nothing wrong with the engine currently, you'll have a good engine w/ the 5.3L It'll use a little more gas, but not much more.

I love mine, and outside of replacing the fan clutch, I've had no trouble with it. Get Jeremy @ Lime-swap to give it a tune, and *you'll* enjoy it, too :smile: So will she, when she smokes the BF's Acadia...LOL.
 
Last edited:

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
26,027
Ottawa, ON
And you'll know how to fix everything :biggrin:

And you have spare parts!
 
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Capote

Supporting Donor
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Jul 14, 2014
24,227
Atlanta, GA
And you'll know how to fix everything :biggrin:

And you have spare parts!
Right, in this case I'd look for a lower mileage GMT360 and use the rusted out one for parts. I love these truck's.
 
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bspurloc

Original poster
Member
Dec 27, 2012
295
she is looking at an 06 with 112k miles but supposedly the dealer says it doenst have AWD?!?! is that possible?
I am going to ask that in another topic. the worst thing with the car is that electronic clutch fan.
If she gets the 06 im gunna want that thing OUT ASAP! and throw the twin electric fan system in from the rusted one.
Never and issue with overheating all those years. sigh
 

bspurloc

Original poster
Member
Dec 27, 2012
295
well a body shop friend said NAH dont want to fix it.
I was thinking of drilling a hole through the frame and a longer bolt just to hold the upper control arms lol. course the bolt would start bending.
sigh
 
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NJTB

Member
Aug 27, 2012
612
Flemington, NJ
I think a replacement part could be fabricated without too much trouble, look for a metal welder/fabricator. Thing is, you have to get to good metal on the frame to weld it in, and that may be the deciding factor. Also, it will be time consuming and expensive, probably frustrating too.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
26,027
Ottawa, ON
And also to get proper alignment, measurements would need to be exact and would have to be taken from another truck.
 

bspurloc

Original poster
Member
Dec 27, 2012
295
yeah blah. I told her keep it under 45mph no highway driving. until find a replacement.
Isn't the upper control arm mostly controlling torque of the rear axle anyway?
limit quick stops and starts and maybe it will last indefinitely?
I'm guessing the rear driveshaft has enough play to not pull out.
I thought all SLT's came with Leather Seats, she doesnt want cloth lol.
 

Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
Yeah, the lowers are the main load bearing ones as can be told by how the lowers are tubular but the uppers are just rather flimsy stamped pieces in comparison.
 

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