Blower almost stalls engine ?

Ghost

Original poster
Member
Jun 1, 2012
932
When I turn the air to full and turn the vent to the front facing forward and enguage blower button ??? Rpm.jumps down to 1k then engine revs shoots rpm back up to normal idle it does this nonstop if headlights and radio is on it stalls at stop lights...is it my battery or...???? Need a video? Let me know please. Ty
 

MacMan

Member
Mar 3, 2012
194
Are you talking about turn on the air, meaning the A/C?

If so, the throttle body probably needs to be removed & cleaned.....there is a sticky thread on this forum showing how to do it.....do a search.
 

Ghost

Original poster
Member
Jun 1, 2012
932
MacMan said:
Are you talking about turn on the air, meaning the A/C?

If so, the throttle body probably needs to be removed & cleaned.....there is a sticky thread on this forum showing how to do it.....do a search.

Not a/c the other button...the one that circulates the air ???

Guess I need to stop procrastinating and clean the throttle body.
 

MacMan

Member
Mar 3, 2012
194
Ghost said:
Not a/c the other button...the one that circulates the air ???

Guess I need to stop procrastinating and clean the throttle body.

When was it cleaned last??
 

Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
It doesn't gag when you crank up the blower but when you turn on the recirculation button it spazzes out? :confused:
 

Ghost

Original poster
Member
Jun 1, 2012
932
Sparky said:
It doesn't gag when you crank up the blower but when you turn on the recirculation button it spazzes out? :confused:

Da! Ill make a video juat a minute.
 

Ghost

Original poster
Member
Jun 1, 2012
932
Here: [video=youtube;vcVKWO3Ulso]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vcVKWO3Ulso&feature=youtube_gdata_player[/video]
 

Rubberman

Member
Dec 14, 2011
117
mine kinda does that with the a/c on. THe RPMS fluctuate up and down a bit but my throttlebody is clean.
 

Rubberman

Member
Dec 14, 2011
117
You have it in N, put it in D and it wont do that.
 

The_Roadie

Lifetime VIP Donor
Member
Nov 19, 2011
9,957
Portland, OR
Recirculate mode forces the AC compressor on even if it's currently off. Clear cause->effect relationship.

98.41% of all erratic idle problems are caused by a dirty, sticky, icky throttle body backside. Until it's clean as a whistle, and you disconnected the battery while you clean it, and then you drive around for a while to enable the PCM to relearn the behavior of a clean throttle body, it's not even worth considering any other fixes. Now go and do it. :cool:
 

MacMan

Member
Mar 3, 2012
194
the roadie said:
Recirculate mode forces the AC compressor on even if it's currently off. Clear cause->effect relationship.

98.41% of all erratic idle problems are caused by a dirty, sticky, icky throttle body backside. Until it's clean as a whistle, and you disconnected the battery while you clean it, and then you drive around for a while to enable the PCM to relearn the behavior of a clean throttle body, it's not even worth considering any other fixes. Now go and do it. :cool:

Yup....what he said. :yes:
 

Ghost

Original poster
Member
Jun 1, 2012
932
the roadie said:
Recirculate mode forces the AC compressor on even if it's currently off. Clear cause->effect relationship.

98.41% of all erratic idle problems are caused by a dirty, sticky, icky throttle body backside. Until it's clean as a whistle, and you disconnected the battery while you clean it, and then you drive around for a while to enable the PCM to relearn the behavior of a clean throttle body, it's not even worth considering any other fixes. Now go and do it. :cool:

Ight I will tmrw. Some remind me ! As u can see in the video I tried in drive and park. Time for a scrub down, when I installed the k&n kit I turned the round tb to look man black as mold in there no procrastinating!
 

Wooluf1952

Member
Nov 20, 2011
2,663
Milwaukee, Wisconsin
Ghost said:
Ight I will tmrw. Some remind me ! As u can see in the video I tried in drive and park. Time for a scrub down, when I installed the k&n kit I turned the round tb to look man black as mold in there no procrastinating!


Watching the video, you never put it in gear. You went from Park to Neutral then back to Park.
 

Ghost

Original poster
Member
Jun 1, 2012
932
Wooluf1952 said:
Watching the video, you never put it in gear. You went from Park to Neutral then back to Park.

Alrifht ill put it in drive thats when it stalls. Ill clean it and report back if that solved my problem.
 

Ghost

Original poster
Member
Jun 1, 2012
932
the roadie said:
Recirculate mode forces the AC compressor on even if it's currently off. Clear cause->effect relationship.

98.41% of all erratic idle problems are caused by a dirty, sticky, icky throttle body backside. Until it's clean as a whistle, and you disconnected the battery while you clean it, and then you drive around for a while to enable the PCM to relearn the behavior of a clean throttle body, it's not even worth considering any other fixes. Now go and do it. :cool:

Found the thread here: http://forums.trailvoy.com/showthread.php?t=51619

Bought the same cleaner, about to go do mine repost back how well it fixed the issue or didn't.
 

Ghost

Original poster
Member
Jun 1, 2012
932
Used: Berrymans B-12 chemtool sprayed all of the TB and inside the JET hole scrubbed it with a tooth brush on every lip and spot i could get to with the tooth bursh.
Throttle body was very nasty!!!!
Took 20min, Hardest part was getting the bolts out w/o a swivel socket but all you have to do is unplug two of the sparkplug plugs

Solved my stalls and issues when running AIR AND OR AC. Much better throttle response.:wootwoot::thumbsup:

Before:
2012-06-14_12-25-34_977.jpg



After:
2012-06-14_12-37-02_214.jpg

2012-06-14_12-36-55_106.jpg


Complete:
2012-06-14_12-52-37_547.jpg
 

Ghost

Original poster
Member
Jun 1, 2012
932
here is a video, the first one i took the the droid x but the video is all messed up it isnt the best due to trying to drive and holding the Moto xoom....

[video=youtube;YUQRnbfNwn4]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YUQRnbfNwn4[/video]
 

The_Roadie

Lifetime VIP Donor
Member
Nov 19, 2011
9,957
Portland, OR
Ghost said:
Took 20min, Hardest part was getting the bolts out w/o a swivel socket
You missed out on a perfect opportunity to justify buying TOOLS?!?!?!?! :eek: :crazy: :redface: :confused: Gonna take away your man badge. :raspberry:
Solved my stalls and issues when running AIR AND OR AC.
We used to call it the Trailvoy Miracle Cure. Now the GMTN Miracle Cure. Schedule a fresh cleaning every 30K miles or so.

We've heard of dealers selling owners a NEW throttle body to fix the same $5 problem. :eek:
 

Ghost

Original poster
Member
Jun 1, 2012
932
the roadie said:
You missed out on a perfect opportunity to justify buying TOOLS?!?!?!?! :eek: :crazy: :redface: :confused: Gonna take away your man badge. :raspberry:We used to call it the Trailvoy Miracle Cure. Now the GMTN Miracle Cure. Schedule a fresh cleaning every 30K miles or so.

We've heard of dealers selling owners a NEW throttle body to fix the same $5 problem. :eek:

LOL it was $7.99 for the can... ah I improvised not everyone has the luxury owning tools. I had a beautiful set of Mac tools but I had to part with them when I was in a band in high-school.
 

Rubberman

Member
Dec 14, 2011
117
Yesterday my Trailblazer stalled at a stoplight when i had the A/C on in front and the rear. I just cleaned my throttlebody a week and half ago and its clean.
 

The_Roadie

Lifetime VIP Donor
Member
Nov 19, 2011
9,957
Portland, OR
Rubberman said:
Yesterday my Trailblazer stalled at a stoplight when i had the A/C on in front and the rear. I just cleaned my throttlebody a week and half ago and its clean.
Assuming you disconnected the battery and that forced a PCM relearn, the next most common cause of an inability to hold a steady idle RPM is the CPAS, IIRC. How many miles do you have, and are you current on new plugs and fresh oil (also reported to cause CPAS problems)?
 

Rubberman

Member
Dec 14, 2011
117
the roadie said:
Assuming you disconnected the battery and that forced a PCM relearn, the next most common cause of an inability to hold a steady idle RPM is the CPAS, IIRC. How many miles do you have, and are you current on new plugs and fresh oil (also reported to cause CPAS problems)?

Yes, the battery was disconnect during the TB cleaning. Currently i have 115k miles and plugs were changed out last summer. Off hand i do not know how many miles i have on these plugs. On oil i use synthetic and should have about 3500-4000 miles on the current oil change.
 

Ghost

Original poster
Member
Jun 1, 2012
932
***update***

Rpm drops sometimes when ac is running at stop lights...not as bad as it did but you def can feel and hear it happen... scanned for codes with no errors.... any ideas what I need to do now ?
 

Ghost

Original poster
Member
Jun 1, 2012
932
the roadie said:
Read my post #21 to rubberman and answer the questions.

48k or so..no plugs have not been changed ?..oil is changed every 3k mile. Currently at 500mi on the oil change.
 

The_Roadie

Lifetime VIP Donor
Member
Nov 19, 2011
9,957
Portland, OR
Then I got nothin'. Sorry. A high end scan tool with data storage might find something. Injectors? You might try Seafoam, since it's about time for its first treatment if you haven't already done that. But it's all guessing by me if it isn't the CPAS or a sticky throttle body on a low mileage engine. If you want to try a CPAS for shotgunning, look for a cheap one. I think there was one in the classifieds recently.
 

Ghost

Original poster
Member
Jun 1, 2012
932
the roadie said:
Then I got nothin'. Sorry. A high end scan tool with data storage might find something. Injectors? You might try Seafoam, since it's about time for its first treatment if you haven't already done that. But it's all guessing by me if it isn't the CPAS or a sticky throttle body on a low mileage engine. If you want to try a CPAS for shotgunning, look for a cheap one. I think there was one in the classifieds recently.

No clue what cpas is... ok is there a sticky how to seafoam our engines ? I was told I am due for an fuelfilter change.....my mpg is like 20highway 15 city... I better change the plugs ' ac delco' and put in a new fuel filter too. Guess cruise control will have to wait unless the local yard gets a tb in
 

Ghost

Original poster
Member
Jun 1, 2012
932
the roadie said:
I'll alert Google to a service outage in your neighborhood. :raspberry: :wink:

Ha ! Ill Google it. Thanks man for ur help.
 

strat81

Member
Dec 29, 2011
399
the roadie said:
I'll alert Google to a service outage in your neighborhood. :raspberry: :wink:

It took me a while to find the answer, since Google thinks "CPAS" searches mean I want to know about accountants.

Anyway, CPAS = Camshaft Position Actuator Solenoid.



And with fuel filters, I change mine every year. Overkill probably, but it's cheap and easy. I love cheap and easy service. :yes:
 

Ghost

Original poster
Member
Jun 1, 2012
932
strat81 said:
It took me a while to find the answer, since Google thinks "CPAS" searches mean I want to know about accountants.

Anyway, CPAS = Camshaft Position Actuator Solenoid.



And with fuel filters, I change mine every year. Overkill probably, but it's cheap and easy. I love cheap and easy service. :yes:

Where is the fuel filter on our tb ? And ia it easy to change ? Its $49 at jiffy to have it done....
 

strat81

Member
Dec 29, 2011
399
Ghost said:
Where is the fuel filter on our tb ? And ia it easy to change ? Its $49 at jiffy to have it done....

It's on the driver's side frame rail, below the B-pillar. You'll need a stubby phillips head screw driver to remove the securing strap and some needle nose pliers to compress the two clips that hold the fuel line on (these clips are pretty easy to remove, unlike many others on our trucks). The filter should be directional, with at least one of the ports marked IN or OUT. A filter should run about $10-$20, depending on where you get it. Do this in a well-ventilated area since you will be dealing with fuel. No smoking!

Start the vehicle.
Pull the fuse/relay for the fuel pump. The truck will die. This will help relieve some of the pressure on the system.
Jack up the vehicle. Put a jackstand in place.
Unstrap the filter.
Remove the fuel lines. Fuel will come out - use rags and/or a drain pan to catch the fuel.
Attach fuel lines to the filter, paying mind to the IN/OUT ports on the filter. Be sure the lines snap into the clips.
Strap the filter back into place.
Lower the vehicle.
Replace the fuse/relay for the fuel pump.
Before starting the vehicle, turn the vehicle to the RUN position. Listen for the pump to cycle on and off. Do that three times to build pressure in the system.
Start the vehicle.
Check for leaks, which should be apparent since the system is pressurized at the rail to ~55psi.
Do a tool inventory and clean up.
 

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