AWD disconnect for Buick Rainier

[DIYguybob]

Hi to all, new on the forum, long time GMT owner since 2012. I drive a 2006 Buick Rainier CXL AWD with 4.2L.

From the posts I have read the AWD disconnect is a dummy unit according to Mooseman on AWD vehicles and stays engaged all the time. Sounds like the bearings are shot in mine. I purchased a replacement from Ebay but it came with the actuator which AWD units don't have. I also noticed that Dorman sells two units a 60115 for most GMTs and 60116 for AWD GMTs. The Ebay sellers suggest that their parts will fit all GMTs. Anyone know if this is true? Are they incorrect in their assumption that all these vehicles can use the same disconnect units? Can I use a 4WD disconnect for my AWD?

Thanks in advance!

• Jul 9, 2015 Mooseman

There is no front disconnect. The one that is there is a "dummy" one, always engaged. Front wheels are always turning the front differential and driveshaft.

 

[TollKeeper]

I think this is the part you are looking for..

AWD Front Axle Disconnect Assembly for Chevy Trailblazer Buick Rainier Saab 9-7x | eBay

Buick Rainier 2004-2007 L6 4.2L Sport Utility AWD only. Buick Rainier 2004-2007 V8 5.3L Sport Utility AWD only. Chevrolet Trailblazer 2007-2009 V8 6.0L Sport Utility AWD only. Saab 9-7x 2005-2009 L6 4.2L Sport Utility AWD only.

www.ebay.com

600-116 is a completely different part than 600-115

600-116 is for the AWD ONLY vehicles
600-115 is for the 4wd vehicles

They are not technically interchangeable.

You could put a 600-115 on a AWD vehicle, but the AWD will not work.

You could put the 600-116 on a 4wd vehicle, and the 4wd would function as normal, but the axle would be connected at all times, causing more wear and tear, and a slight drop in fuel economy.

 

[TJBaker57]

You could look at this link and compare.

Parts 11, 12, 13, 14, 16, 17, 18, 19 are replaced by part #5 and #9 for the AWD system.

The actual body parts and bearings, seals and so forth of the unit are the same in both systems.

While the selectable 4 wd system part will fit, it would not transfer any drive power through without some jumper wiring to engage the unit.

It just seems like this would not be adviseable and more prone to early failure.

2006 Buick RAINIER DIFFERENTIAL CARRIER/FRONT AXLE

Diagram of OEM DIFFERENTIAL CARRIER/FRONT AXLE. Contains 27 parts priced between $5.62 and $412.42. Fits 2006 Buick RAINIER.

www.general.parts

 

[Mooseman]

You could still install it and actuate the actuator motor so it stays connected. It will basically be the same as the non-disconnecting disconnect. I've also seen some versions that just removed the actuator and put a plug with a stem bolted there that would permanently push the fork inside, keeping it engaged.

It would be better if you can return it and get the proper one.

 

[DIYguybob]

Thank you to all for your help. I will return it and buy the correct one. Be careful for those who have an AWD and trust vendors' listings. They seem to think that all GMTs are the same and list the AWD versions as being compatible with the 4WD disconnects. Now I need to do some testing and see if my intermediate shaft is stripped as well. My AWD was not working when I placed all four corners on jack stands. The encoder motor was replaced with a new one and made no difference. I have replaced the transfer case fluid every 50k and recently replaced the front diff fluid. My front drive shaft is turning, but the wheels are not moving much. Sometimes they spin slightly, sometimes not at all. There is also a scaping noise coming from the passenger side near the disconnect. Interestingly I don't hear the scraping noise when the vehicle is driving, only when it's on the jack stands for testing purposes.

 

[Mooseman]

Once you get the disconnect off, you'll be able to tell if the intermediate shaft is stripped. Happens a lot to the AWD trucks because of the way it engages, which I call the "slip/bang".

Buick Rainier bad Intermediate Bearing Assembly or Differential

Hi technicians, I have an 04 Rainier with AWD only. They AWD went out last year. I have read posts on this site and others covering the last ten years on disconnect and actuator failures. With the vehicle on blocks and running the forward driveshaft turns and some bad sounds are coming from...

gmtnation.com

 

[TollKeeper]

That is correct.. Once you pull the disconnect out, you can pull out the cross oil pan drive shaft. If I am remembering correctly, you can even thread in a bolt into the end of the shaft to help you pull it out.

The good thing is, these are pretty much universal across all of the GMT360, regardless of gearing or engine.

Part # 12479125

Available all over eBay, even available on Amazon using that part #.

 

[DIYguybob]

Thanks TollKeeper, there are a lot on Ebay. Pricing isn't too bad compared to GM's $400 price, I saw many for under $100. Most were new. That tells me this is a common failure part, otherwise why would so many sellers have these on Ebay.

As an option, if I decided to remove the encoder motor and drive in RWD only, would I potentially damage anything else in the front? Could the worn intermediate shaft or worn disconnect cause something to jam and destroy parts?

 

[TJBaker57]

As an option, if I decided to remove the encoder motor and drive in RWD only, would I potentially damage anything else in the front? Could the worn intermediate shaft or worn disconnect cause something to jam and destroy parts?

Even with the transfer case shift motor (encoder motor) removed the components of the front drive system will spin.

Since the drivers side CV axle spins at the rpm of the drivers side front wheel the frictions encountered in the front differential and intermediate bearing assembly (front 'disconnect') will cause rotation of the other components of the front drive system.

 

[Mooseman]

We have a thread on how to disable the AWD/4x4 system:

AWD/4x4 front diff permanent disable

 

[TollKeeper]

Thanks TollKeeper, there are a lot on Ebay. Pricing isn't too bad compared to GM's $400 price, I saw many for under $100. Most were new. That tells me this is a common failure part, otherwise why would so many sellers have these on Ebay.

As an option, if I decided to remove the encoder motor and drive in RWD only, would I potentially damage anything else in the front? Could the worn intermediate shaft or worn disconnect cause something to jam and destroy parts?

I think you should probably make sure to look at that cross pan shaft very carefully.

If the splines are tore up on the disconnect side, make sure you clean the tube in the oil pan out as best you can. Most of the splines are likely going to be embedded in the disconnect, but its best to be sure.

If the splines are tore up on the differential side, do the same as above, but also try to do a dif flush. Put some new GL5 fluid in, drive it for a mile, and drain it again, putting new fluid in again.

Trying to get those filings, and teeth out, to prevent bearing issues later.

 

[DIYguybob]

Thanks Tollkeeper, I appreciate the advice. I need to decide whether to take it apart and inspect, then order parts or order parts and then take apart. I would prefer not to disassemble and reassemble too many times. It will take at least 7 days to get the ebay intermediate shaft. That's a long time with a vehicle down.

 

[DIYguybob]

Hi guys, with all four wheels on the ground I tried to turn the front drive shaft by hand and it spins no problem. Does that indicate a stripped intermediate shaft? I believe it does from the posts I have read.

 

[TJBaker57]

Hi guys, with all four wheels on the ground I tried to turn the front drive shaft by hand and it spins no problem. Does that indicate a stripped intermediate shaft? I believe it does from the posts I have read.

It indicates 'something' is stripped but it cannot isolate WHAT is stripped. It might be the intermediate shaft, it might be either CV axle, it might be the coupler inside the intermediate bearing assembly ('disconnect').

What sounds do you hear while spinning the front driveshaft? And where do these sounds seem to come from?

 

[DIYguybob]

Strangely when I spin the front driveshaft it's quiet. I tested the AWD with all four wheels in the air and that's when I could hear a scraping sound coming from the front right corner. It doesn't seem to make any noises while driving on the road.

 

[Mooseman]

Given the symptoms, I would suspect the intermediate shaft is stripped, like in that thread I linked. Likely both the disconnect and shaft will need to be replaced. This is just an educated guess though and won't be confirmed until it's all taken apart.

 

[Schurkey]

You could look at this link and compare.

Parts 11, 12, 13, 14, 16, 17, 18, 19 are replaced by part #5 and #9 for the AWD system.

The actual body parts and bearings, seals and so forth of the unit are the same in both systems.

While the selectable 4 wd system part will fit, it would not transfer any drive power through without some jumper wiring to engage the unit.

It just seems like this would not be adviseable and more prone to early failure.

2006 Buick RAINIER DIFFERENTIAL CARRIER/FRONT AXLE

Diagram of OEM DIFFERENTIAL CARRIER/FRONT AXLE. Contains 27 parts priced between $5.62 and $412.42. Fits 2006 Buick RAINIER.

www.general.parts

Bearing "2" is the one that's given me repeat problems--the original disconnect, and the "rebuilt" one that I bought to replace the original. Both failed the bearing on the "gear", and destroyed the machined surface of the gear in the process.

My "fix" for that is to NOT use the "official" bearing on the side of the housing that the "gear" rides on. I use a 16mm bearing instead of the 12mm bearing. The wider bearing JUST BARELY fits into the OEM aluminum housing. Whether it fits on the aftermarket housings, I don't know.




The AWD version of the "disconnect" uses the same bearings, and I bet has the exact same failure mode. A wider bearing in the same location--maybe both locations--would minimize repeat failures. But since I've never had an AWD "disconnect" apart, I can't say for sure that the wider bearing would fit in either place.