any special tool recommendations for t-stat replacement?


Original poster
Aug 8, 2012
Hello all..My envoy is acting up. The needle for the temp is all over the place at times. It goes between 210 and about 170 on and off. Sometimes it stays at 210, sometimes it will stay for a second then swing back down etc. Anyways I have a new t-stat and sender. I am asking for advice of any "Special" wrenches or anything that would make the job go smoother. (ie 13mm stubby ratchet wrench etc). I have lots of extensions, ujoints, air ratchet etc. I know sometimes on jobs like these I will see someone will post..well if I had just had a " " it would have been a whole lot easier. I am also going to be replacing both upper and lower control arms. Ive got the whole arm with the bottom ball joint already attached. I cant think of anything really I would need there except basic tools and maybe a pickle fork, of which I have a few. I bought new end links, and upper ball joints just in case they were worn. I forgot all about the tie rod ends. I didnt have any play in the wheel when I replaced my wheel bearings a few months back so I hope they are ok. If I could find the source of the dreaded "squeege" sound coming from when I steer I would be golden. Ive tried the power steering dice. thanks everyone


Aug 26, 2012
since you have the new sensor, you might want a wrench that will work without cutting the wire.

to take the generator out, some folks said a self-ratcheting wrench helps. the mounting bolts have a few threads, and you need a box end or open end wrench for the bottom mounting bolt, since it backs into an A/C line. As I recall, removing the generator with the lower bolt inside is recommended)

I used a straight combination wrench for mine.

you will need 18 mm sockets and box end for a good bit of the suspension work. I had to purchase, since my sets did not have 18MM (only had two sizes, too big and too small)


Dec 4, 2011
When I changed my thermostat the lower alternator bolt was ackward. I used a ratchet wrench and did make the job a little smoother. Also, if you are changing to worm gear type hose clamps, make sure you position them so they can be frequently re-tightened. I use a quarter drive socket and ratchet with a long extension which I insert downward near the pcm area. You may also want to get some old rags and stuff them so any dropped fasteners do not get lost in tiny confined areas. That lower crossmember seems to catch and hold anything dropped.


Original poster
Aug 8, 2012
cool..thanks for the replies. I have 18mm sockets and wrenches. I guess Ill just dive in and see what happens.


Nov 18, 2011
Many folks use a ratcheting 15mm wrench for the lower alt bolt. And you'll need something that can compress the OEM hose clamp at the t-stat. Some people have been successful using channel locks but I don't have the patience for that. I got a hose clamp removal tool that has a slot in one the end of one jaw and a cup in the other. Makes removing them a breeze.


Dec 12, 2011
I did this with a dremel to an old 18MM socket fot the ECT sensor, makes it alot easier.

I would advise against worm-drive clamps.

The clamps from the factory are excellent clamps and are constant pressure. Sorry to step on anyones toes with that.


  • 100MEDIA_IMAG2381-1.jpg
    53.7 KB · Views: 13
  • 100MEDIA_IMAG2383.jpg
    16.2 KB · Views: 119


Dec 8, 2011
gmcman said:
I did this with a dremel to an old 18MM socket fot the ECT sensor, makes it alot easier.

I would advise against worm-drive clamps.

The clamps from the factory are excellent clamps and are constant pressure. Sorry to step on anyones toes with that.

I have to disagree. I was removing my lower hose (so i could change the thermostat and ECT) and when i compressed the factory clamp it broke and left me with a nice hole in the hose. I was furious. :hissyfit: I replaced with a worm clamp, but do have a slight leak now. I haven't determined if its from the small hole or from the new clamp.

I do agree with making a 18mm socket with the cutout. I believe this would be very helpful. I only had an open end wrench and man that took a while. The lower alternator bolt is also one of my favorite bolts. I would recommend a ratcheting wrench as well.


Jan 25, 2012
Just used a crows foot for the ECT sensor. As for the alternator I cannot remember WTH I used going to guess a combination wrench. As for the spring clamps replaced them with new ones and I have never had a problem using them on any vehicle. The worm in the worm gear ones tend to rust pretty bad and become more of a headache, never had a problem with channel locks, lineman pliers or vice grips for the spring ones though.

We also changed the water pump to help prevent some surprises further down the road. The fan clutch is the biggest PITA with that.


Dec 23, 2012
All my worm-drive band clamps are stainless .... haven't seen any that rust in hands are big, I can drop a quarter thru my wedding ring.....that with a big pair of channel-loks..... makes it hard to get in tight places... I think you should use what ever works for you. I use a 1/4 drive and a long extention for the bottom...tighten untill thre rubber tries to squeeze thur the drive slits....

Forum Statistics

Latest member

Members Online