Like the title says I have an airbag light with steering wheel movement. If I am driving and the road is straight the light is off, start turning even slightly or hit a bump and the light comes on. My wife drives the TB mostly and I am very concerned about this. I don't want the airbags just popping out for no reason. Can you guys give a little help and point me in a direction. I have searched but did not see anything remotely similar to my problem.
Airbag light with steering wheel movement
- Thread starter Mypetropig
- Start date
AtlWrk
Member
- Dec 6, 2011
- 674
I wouldn't worry about the airbags deploying unexpectedly. Not deploying when they should? That's another story.
The steering wheel position sensor only ties into the traction control/stabilitrak system--a common problem but not likely the OP's issue.
If it was just bumps that caused it it could be literally any component of the airbag system. Also occuring while moving the wheel points strongly to the clockspring. This sits in the steering column behind the airbag and is what allows the steering wheel to turn while maintaining electrical contact with the airbag. A flakey connection here would set the airbag light.
Does the light come on and stay on? Even if it doesn't it the codes may be stored. If so your best bet would be to have a dealer or knowledge technician scan for the airbag codes and report back so we're not shotgunning parts.
The steering wheel position sensor only ties into the traction control/stabilitrak system--a common problem but not likely the OP's issue.
If it was just bumps that caused it it could be literally any component of the airbag system. Also occuring while moving the wheel points strongly to the clockspring. This sits in the steering column behind the airbag and is what allows the steering wheel to turn while maintaining electrical contact with the airbag. A flakey connection here would set the airbag light.
Does the light come on and stay on? Even if it doesn't it the codes may be stored. If so your best bet would be to have a dealer or knowledge technician scan for the airbag codes and report back so we're not shotgunning parts.
I do not have stabiltrak at any thing of the like. Its an LS model ( less stuff ). The info given to me from my wife is that it comes on when she hits a bump or turns the wheel. I haven't had an opportunity to drive it yet. I did notice this morning that after start up diagnostics run there is no light but if you turn the wheel slightly the light will come on. She tells me that it will go out if she holds the wheel straight long enough if the road allows. Is there a site/link or anything that will indicate where the sensor are. I plan to try and check connections etc this evening. From what I can see some of these parts are expensive so I really don't want to shot gun either.
As posted, a Tech II or high end scan tool can ask the SRS control module WHICH sensor loop or airbag firing circuit is flaky. Rest assured that this sort of fault cannot fire an airbag inadvertently. The continuous diagnostic is to make sure if one WON'T fire when it's supposed to, that you're alerted to the fault. But it's a perfect reason to find an independent mechanic with a good scan tool, or to buy one that can also talk to the control module.
A few weeks ago I called the local dealer and they said they could scan it and get the code for approx $45. Today I take it there to get that done and they are now trying to say that it will be more because you cant get the parts just anywhere blah blah blah. You need to let us run a full diagnostic for $105 plus repairs. So now I come to you guys with a question. If I am able to get them to scan and get only the code and bring that code here, do you guys think you could help?
You could get the code and Google for it as well as we could. But surely in your town there's an honest and competent independent mechanic with a Tech II or equivalent high end tool to do what you want and not lie to you like that dealer?
They quoted $45 - they need their feet held to the fire to deliver a code for $45. Consumer bait & switch laws seem to apply.
They quoted $45 - they need their feet held to the fire to deliver a code for $45. Consumer bait & switch laws seem to apply.
Seemed odd to me as well that they pull that crap. Its a shame how many folks get suckered by the bait and switch. If it turns out to be wiring related that's when I will need some help. My search is on to find some where else to get the code read. Til then..........
Forgot to mention that the light is always on now. I think the wheel movement may have been a coincidence.
Mypetropig said:
I know of a guy that ignored the light for the air bag and it went off one day he ended up in the ditch! if it was me I would pull the fuse until you can get it fixed.
I was finally able to find a mechanic that would just read the code. So what I have is B0026 driver frontal loop open stage 1 I think. I googled the code and most of what comes up is for full size trucks etc. Anybody have any experience with this code. If so please help.
That's a lot of info. Kinda confusing, is it possible to put that into layman's terms? Lol. I found a thread on clock spring repair that shows to connectors. Is there one under the dash. I did recently put a radiator in. Would it be possible to have jarred a connector loose in doing that?
The radiator project could have disturbed an impact sensor or their harnesses, which are on the rear side of the front impact tube - the round tube behind the front bumper cover.
But the airbag diagnostic error involves the harness to the steering column, the clockspring, and the connector going the last few inches into the airbag. I would get two nails and release it from the center of the steering wheel just to see what's up with the last connector back there.
Lotsa pics in my definitive airbag and clockspring thread:
Repairing the clockspring. Ick. - Chevy TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer SS and GMC Envoy Forum
But the airbag diagnostic error involves the harness to the steering column, the clockspring, and the connector going the last few inches into the airbag. I would get two nails and release it from the center of the steering wheel just to see what's up with the last connector back there.
Lotsa pics in my definitive airbag and clockspring thread:
Repairing the clockspring. Ick. - Chevy TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer SS and GMC Envoy Forum
I will check that hopefully this weekend. Would I be looking for something along the lines of a dirty or loose connection? Is there a way to check the clock spring, such as continuity? I do not have any controls on the steering wheel nor the DIC. Its an LS which some say stands for Less Stuff. I have been studying the thread on clock spring repair since all of this began.
neohio said:
I have been studying the info you sent and have a better understanding of the contents. However I do have one question. Where is fig17 located? Is it under the dash or under the hood?
Thanks
Mypetropig said:
Located under center console, rear of console under air duct.
The figure you see looks like it was drawn looking from rear passenger door.
I would upload the PDF here for everyone else, just not 100% how to do it. [PDF]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/99172209/B0026.pdf[/PDF]
Looks like that worked.
I haven't had the chance to check anything yet. Just trying to get a good understanding before I start.
So today I finally got the chance to check a few things out. I removed the airbag and disconnected it then went under the dash and checked that connector. I found some type of oily residue inside the connector under the dash. I cleaned it really well with CRC electrical cleaner and while it was apart I checked continuity from it to the last connectors for the airbag. Continuity checked ok even when I moved the steering wheel as much as I could, 1/2 to 3/4 turn each way. I put everything back together and at start up the light was out. I was thinking that I got it but while road testing I found that if I turned the wheel full left or right the light would come on for a few seconds or so, normal driving the light is out. At this point I am thinking its gotta be a clock spring going bad. Thoughts anyone?
Well scratch that little bit of progress. The light is back on steady now so I'm back at square one. 
I've been researching B0026 a little bit more. Can anyone tell me where connectors C221 and C222 are. That connector may be giving high resistance. There where some other harnesses or connectors mentioned in a previous post but I don't have a wiring diagram to find them. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Found the connectors in question and got a copy of the wiring diagram from a service writer I've known for years. One question, since these connectors have shorting clips in them what's the best way to read resistance through them. I have a Fluke 332 meter. I assume one lead on each side of the connector unplugged to test each wire.
The shorting clip is there (as I understand it) to short out the airbag igniter side of the connector when it's unplugged. That way a jolt of static electricity can't blow off the airbag, which is like a shotgun shell near your ears and other sensitive parts. Personally, I would not use a meter on resistance function anywhere near a live airbag, because the fundamental way a meter measures resistance is by sending a known current using an internal battery through the leads. Then the meter measures the voltage as seen by the leads. V = IR. R = V/I. That internal batery may or may not have enough energy ignite the airbag, but I would use it on the vehicle side of the connector only, taking the other lead (using an extension wire) back to the SRS control module. That would check the clock spring. Again - know what you're doing and be VERY cautious, because all the warnings in the shop manual are there for a reason. The SRS diagnostic to check the integrity of the wiring loop for wach bag and each sensor is energy limited for good reasons.
Just want to make sure I understand you correctly. I will have the battery disconnected and the airbag in the wheel removed. Would I check from the harness at the module under the console(unplugged) to the harness that goes to the airbag. Would that be considered the vehicle side?
Thank you very much. Looks like I have some home work to do this weekend. I hope its just a screwy connector. I also found out that the oily substance was some type of dielectric compound. Can I use just any old dielectric grease or is there a specific kind recommended?
Well I did some more checking. I removed the center console to get to the SDM module and removed the airbag in the steering wheel. I checked wires from the module connector to the connectors at the airbag. Here are the results.
3021- tan = 1.3 ohms
3020-brown = 2.4 ohms
3023- white = 1.2 ohms
3022-pink = 1.2 ohms
Looking back I wonder if I should have made some sort of jumper to go between tan/brown and white/pink. If I am thinking correctly that would have tested the complete circuit not just the individual wires. If it matters, every time I take it apart to check something and put it back together upon start up the light if off. As soon as I move the wheel the light comes back on, this time steady. Is there a way to check the airbag itself?
Help please.
3021- tan = 1.3 ohms
3020-brown = 2.4 ohms
3023- white = 1.2 ohms
3022-pink = 1.2 ohms
Looking back I wonder if I should have made some sort of jumper to go between tan/brown and white/pink. If I am thinking correctly that would have tested the complete circuit not just the individual wires. If it matters, every time I take it apart to check something and put it back together upon start up the light if off. As soon as I move the wheel the light comes back on, this time steady. Is there a way to check the airbag itself?
Help please.
IllogicTC
Member
- Dec 30, 2013
- 3,452
Also, the procedure is to check the high circuit and the low circuit, individually. If there is no continuity or high resistance, it's junk. Looking at those numbers, the resistance appears to be in check, but make sure you test the high circuit and the low circuit and make sure, both should be under 6 ohms. B0026 in particular points to stage 1 circuit, check both high and low circuits for stage 1.
Other possible scenarios (as listed in the shop book) -
Short between steering wheel module stage 1 (or stage 2 if the code was B0044) high and low circuits. High circuit shouldn't have any continuity with the low circuit.
An open or high resistance in the high or low circuits. Refer to above on checking them.
Short-to-ground or short-to-voltage in the steering wheel module.
Malfunctioning coil connector
Malfunctioning SDM connector
Malfunctioning module
Malfunctioning module connector
Malfunctioning SDM.
Of course it goes on to list a special "J" dealer tool, I'm willing to bet this can be diagnosed without such a tool, it just may take more time but it'd be about 349809384 times cheaper than a Kent-Moore, or so-called "Spent-More" tool.
Other possible scenarios (as listed in the shop book) -
Short between steering wheel module stage 1 (or stage 2 if the code was B0044) high and low circuits. High circuit shouldn't have any continuity with the low circuit.
An open or high resistance in the high or low circuits. Refer to above on checking them.
Short-to-ground or short-to-voltage in the steering wheel module.
Malfunctioning coil connector
Malfunctioning SDM connector
Malfunctioning module
Malfunctioning module connector
Malfunctioning SDM.
Of course it goes on to list a special "J" dealer tool, I'm willing to bet this can be diagnosed without such a tool, it just may take more time but it'd be about 349809384 times cheaper than a Kent-Moore, or so-called "Spent-More" tool.
I have done a continuity check on it but other than that I am not sure what to do to prove it good or bad. Since this started it was with wheel movement and after I tear it all to hell and put it back together the light is out, move the wheel and it comes back on. I'm inclined to agree that its a clock spring but just a little gun shy on ordering a $200 part when I am not 100% sure.
Looking at the diagram 3021 and 3023 are high and 3020 and 3022 are low. If you are saying check those separately would I need to have one lead on 3021 and the other on 3023 to test the high circuit same goes for low? I have looked up pricing on the Kent Moore tool and I found it for about $300 but you have to buy some harness adapter crap for it also so might as well call it $500. I am not in the market for that.
Looking at the diagram 3021 and 3023 are high and 3020 and 3022 are low. If you are saying check those separately would I need to have one lead on 3021 and the other on 3023 to test the high circuit same goes for low? I have looked up pricing on the Kent Moore tool and I found it for about $300 but you have to buy some harness adapter crap for it also so might as well call it $500. I am not in the market for that.
IllogicTC
Member
- Dec 30, 2013
- 3,452
Mypetropig said:
Yeah all Kent-Moore stuff is crazy expensive. Just the adapter that fits on the oil filter fitting to hook up a pressure gauge? Over $100, hose and gauge not included. Actual oil filters are more complicated in design than that adapter.
Yes, 21 and 23, measure resistance. A value above 6 ohms, or no continuity, is a fail. Same goes for 20 to 22. Also, check combinations, like 21 to 22, if you get any continuity it's a short condition, which is also a fail.
Someone correct me if my idea on the procedure is wrong, but I believe this is how it would be done.
I'm thinking that the best way to check this circuit including the airbag is to go to the SDM module connector under the console. Is that correct?
If that is correct and the resistance value is high, what is the best way to begin eliminating individual components? Use a jumper wire of some sort? I apologize for all of the questions I just seem to struggle a bit with electrical issues. I'm not afraid and obviously willing to try, just need some guidance.
If that is correct and the resistance value is high, what is the best way to begin eliminating individual components? Use a jumper wire of some sort? I apologize for all of the questions I just seem to struggle a bit with electrical issues. I'm not afraid and obviously willing to try, just need some guidance.
I found this while searching for clock spring diagnostic.
http://www.justanswer.com/chevy/6gp9h-chevrolet-tahoe-hi-chevy-tahoe-05-whit-code-b0026.html
I understand what the guy in the article wants this guy to try, just wonder if any of the gurus here agree with this method?
http://www.justanswer.com/chevy/6gp9h-chevrolet-tahoe-hi-chevy-tahoe-05-whit-code-b0026.html
I understand what the guy in the article wants this guy to try, just wonder if any of the gurus here agree with this method?
[QUOTE
Yes, 21 and 23, measure resistance. A value above 6 ohms, or no continuity, is a fail. Same goes for 20 to 22. Also, check combinations, like 21 to 22, if you get any continuity it's a short condition, which is also a fail./QUOTE]
OK easy enough. I assume I would do this with the battery disconnected, airbag still in the wheel and take the measurements at the SDM harness, unplugged, so that the entire circuit is tested. My concern is what Roadie posted earlier about the battery in the meter possibly firing the airbag. Can that happen?
Yes, 21 and 23, measure resistance. A value above 6 ohms, or no continuity, is a fail. Same goes for 20 to 22. Also, check combinations, like 21 to 22, if you get any continuity it's a short condition, which is also a fail./QUOTE]
OK easy enough. I assume I would do this with the battery disconnected, airbag still in the wheel and take the measurements at the SDM harness, unplugged, so that the entire circuit is tested. My concern is what Roadie posted earlier about the battery in the meter possibly firing the airbag. Can that happen?