Air box intake (viking horn looking thing)

[Ryda55555]

I just cleaned my throttle body and opened up the air box, then i realized the little horn thing that lets air flow into the filter is pretty much behind the rad and probably doesnt get much air flow
Has anyone modded or extended the horn to get better airflow? Or will it not do much?

 

[dmanns67]

I found an old post by TXBlazer from the OS similar to what you are talking about. Below is the link to the post and TXBlazer's pics. Seems like a good idea go from HAI to AAI. I think he said that he used old shop vac hose, but any accordion type tubing would work with some modification.

K&N Cold Air Intake Ducts - Chevy TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer SS and GMC Envoy Forum

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[Playsinsnow]

What exactly are those lines? Arent they cooled/return lines?

I toyed with this and after a week of not noticing anything but a spotted dirty filter (my k&n used to get dirty on 1/4-1/3 of the area, it was now concentrated in a sad looking spot) im back to the stock intake housing. That and it looked "homemade"

 

[dmanns67]

What exactly are those lines? Arent they cooled/return lines?

Looking back at TXBlazer's post, he said that he used an extra shop vac hose that he had laying around. Instead of running the hose to the top part of the grille, you could also run it down to the bottom of the front bumper making it harder for dirt, mud, and water to reach the filter.

Now if you are really inclined to get cooler air flow, you can go the fender well intake route. Looks like you would have to remove the windshield fluid reservoir. Not sure what else is running under the reservoir though. The pictures are of an SS though, just to give an idea of what I am talking about.

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I still use the "viking horn" with my K&N intake and notice anywhere from 8 to 10 degrees warmer air going into the intake than the ambient temperature. At first I was not using it and seen about 15 degrees warmer air. Not a huge difference though.

 

[Ryda55555]

If there isnt that much difference then its not worth the trouble to fix/mod it, it just looked like it wasnt getting enough airflow because of the rad mostly in the way
I've also seen people gut the stock airbox and said it makes a noticeable difference
And then some say it ruins top end torque so im just gunna leave it hahaha

 

[dmanns67]

I did notice my intake psi go up when I removed the intake resonator. I can hear my intake draw air when I step on the gas and definitely gives the engine and exhaust a different sound.

 

[Ryda55555]

I did notice my intake psi go up when I removed the intake resonator. I can hear my intake draw air when I step on the gas and definitely gives the engine and exhaust a different sound.

Now that might be a future mod lol but i like the full look the intake resonator and airbox gives, if i could i'd install a SS engine cover on and glue on gmc logo

 

[dmanns67]

Now that might be a future mod lol but i like the full look the intake resonator and airbox gives, if i could i'd install a SS engine cover on and glue on gmc logo

Its definitely a cheap and easy mod.
-3.5" OD tubing 8" long
-12" long 1/2" ID hose
-1/2" ID barb fitting
-(4) 4" worm gear hose clamps
-12" long 3/4" split wire loom (dress up hose)
-Paint for the tubing if you choose.

With the barb fitting, I cut it off at the base where the threads start and used JB Weld to attach it to the intake tube. After the JB Weld cured, I drilled down through the barb fitting into the intake tube as I did not want the threads obstructing any airflow.

That would not be a bad idea. I have seen a few pics where guys basically cut out the bottom half of the intake resonator and bolt it back on to keep the stock look. The only down side is if you decide to go back stock, you have to buy a new resonator.

 

[Shdwdrgn]

I added a 2" pipe to my airbox to double the available intake air, and provide a way for at least some cool air to come in.

http://sourpuss.net/projects/vehicles/trailblazer/cai/
Take a look at the last 7 pictures on that page. I used a heat gun to do some creative shaping of the pipe, so it comes out in front of the radiator (but behind the grill). My reasoning behind this was that it seemed absurd to have a 2" pipe allowing air to come in to the air box, and then use a 3" pipe to feed between the airbox and the engine. And realistically, having two 2" intake pipes still allows less volume than the 3" pipe can carry.

I guess it must make some difference, because the last time I checked, I recorded an air temperature of about 70 degrees, and my IAT was only reading at 90 degrees after driving for 30 minutes.

 

[Short Bus]

I just gutted the front 1/2 of my box, cut a BIG hole in the front of it (basically the whole front) and blocked off the front resonator.

 

[blazinlow89]

With the barb fitting, I cut it off at the base where the threads start and used JB Weld to attach it to the intake tube. After the JB Weld cured, I drilled down through the barb fitting into the intake tube as I did not want the threads obstructing any airflow.

That would not be a bad idea. I have seen a few pics where guys basically cut out the bottom half of the intake resonator and bolt it back on to keep the stock look. The only down side is if you decide to go back stock, you have to buy a new resonator.

I was far beyond going back to stock at that point, and it looked a hell of a lot better than the bare coil packs.

If you look for my intake thread, or one of the other home brew ones, we go into great detail about the options, and different ways that this has been done. My biggest help for air temperature control is the hole in my grill for the headlight washer assembly. Directly behind this is a hole for the washer assembly which is just a hole (about 1.25"), and behind this is the filter cover. This gives a straight shot of air back to the air filter. Like I have said in the past I have had IAT temps of 5-10 degrees below ambient temps, at highway speed. I have seen as high as 25 degrees below ambient in spring time in the evening.