ACDelco vs Napa/Wix vs ATP

ghost_leader07

Original poster
Member
Dec 18, 2019
153
UAE
Hello everyone,

I have a 04 Trailblazer LT and i'm going to do a fluid and transmission filter change, i came across a few brands while shopping for the filter and i usually go with ACDelco but i'm not sure if the price/quality is worth it so i'm kinda lost between these:

*ACDelco 24208576 Professional Automatic Transmission Fluid Filter Kit
*WIX Filters - 58847 Automatic Transmission Filter
*ATP B-165 Automatic Transmission Filter Kit

Which one you is the best choice? obviously ACDelco being the most expensive but does it offer the best OE quality? I've heard good things about WIX filters and not sure about ATP even though they have a good rating.

Much appreciation for your input,
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
26,360
Ottawa, ON
Everybody on the internet goes gaga over engine oil filters but not a peep about tranny oil filters.

As funny as it sounds, what I look at is the included gasket. I pass on the cork finding they leak more and are more of a PITA when removing them.

The filter itself, make sure the opening is the same or bigger although I don't think there are differences on the 4L60E. There were differences in the 6L80E filters where some models got wider mouth openings.

But look at it this way, is it worth saving $10-15?
 

ghost_leader07

Original poster
Member
Dec 18, 2019
153
UAE
As funny as it sounds, what I look at is the included gasket. I pass on the cork finding they leak more and are more of a PITA when removing them.
So which one has rubber gasket? Assuming rubber is a better sealant?

Should I go with ACDelco or WIX?

Edit:

I forget to mention that this is my second fluid/filter change i have used ACDelco first time and it did come with a rubber gasket i guess it reusable? Just wondering about the quality of WIX filters.
 
Last edited:

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
26,360
Ottawa, ON
I wouldn't hesitate to use Wix. Who knows who actually supplies them to ACDelco. Without having them all side by side, it's difficult to compare. I don't know ATP.

Never heard of a failure because of a bad filter. A clogged one, yes, due to neglect. I don't think you can really go wrong with any of them, except maybe Fram, but that's just going by their engine oil filters.
 

ghost_leader07

Original poster
Member
Dec 18, 2019
153
UAE
I wouldn't hesitate to use Wix. Who knows who actually supplies them to ACDelco. Without having them all side by side, it's difficult to compare. I don't know ATP.

Never heard of a failure because of a bad filter. A clogged one, yes, due to neglect. I don't think you can really go wrong with any of them, except maybe Fram, but that's just going by their engine oil filters.

I think I'm good to go, I'll get WIX.

Thanks a lot for your input, I can always rely on the Mooseman
 

Reprise

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Jul 22, 2015
2,724
There are two items here - the filter, which is generally made of plastic, and has a 'snout', and the pan gasket, which can be cork, rubber, or rubber / steel surround.

I use Wix for the trans filter; they generally sell as a kit which has filter & gasket in the box (along with a round filter seal; if your seal doesnt come out with the filter, just leave it in and make sure the filter seats in it - doesn't take a ton of pressure). The seal is a PITA to get out; most just leave it in, if it sufficiently holds the new one / doesn't show obvious damage.

Wix also distributes a gasketless filter; that's for those who have reusable pan gaskets - the rubber/steel combo. If you're lucky enough to have that type, just hold onto the rubber one for a spare; the reusable one is very good quality.

If I have a choice, I'll generally go with the Wix. I have to go to O'Reilly to get them.

Make sure you get the right filter - check your pan depth. If it's about 3" or so past the lip, you have the deep pan. The tech *should* ask, but he can't tell by your MY or VIN which you have. Most have the deep; trucks generally get those.

A 'shallow' filter in a deep pan can result in it being pushed out; it needs the pan to help hold it in place. Check length of the snout on old / new.

I don't recall the bolt torque offhand as I'm mobile right now; you should look it up anyway (it's not a ton). Make sure you do it in 2 passes, in a criss-cross sequence.

Finally, if you have a pan with a drain bolt, don't cheer yet; they tend to be overtightened at the factory, so if this is the original fluid / 1st change, don't be surprised if you can't get the bolt off easily. Alternative is to loosen pan bolts more on one side, and wear old clothes, cause it will get messy.
 

ghost_leader07

Original poster
Member
Dec 18, 2019
153
UAE
There are two items here - the filter, which is generally made of plastic, and has a 'snout', and the pan gasket, which can be cork, rubber, or rubber / steel surround.

I use Wix for the trans filter; they generally sell as a kit which has filter & gasket in the box (along with a round filter seal; if your seal doesnt come out with the filter, just leave it in and make sure the filter seats in it - doesn't take a ton of pressure). The seal is a PITA to get out; most just leave it in, if it sufficiently holds the new one / doesn't show obvious damage.

Wix also distributes a gasketless filter; that's for those who have reusable pan gaskets - the rubber/steel combo. If you're lucky enough to have that type, just hold onto the rubber one for a spare; the reusable one is very good quality.

If I have a choice, I'll generally go with the Wix. I have to go to O'Reilly to get them.

Make sure you get the right filter - check your pan depth. If it's about 3" or so past the lip, you have the deep pan. The tech *should* ask, but he can't tell by your MY or VIN which you have. Most have the deep; trucks generally get those.

A 'shallow' filter in a deep pan can result in it being pushed out; it needs the pan to help hold it in place. Check length of the snout on old / new.

I don't recall the bolt torque offhand as I'm mobile right now; you should look it up anyway (it's not a ton). Make sure you do it in 2 passes, in a criss-cross sequence.

Finally, if you have a pan with a drain bolt, don't cheer yet; they tend to be overtightened at the factory, so if this is the original fluid / 1st change, don't be surprised if you can't get the bolt off easily. Alternative is to loosen pan bolts more on one side, and wear old clothes, cause it will get messy.

Thanks for the thorough reply and tips :smile:
 
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Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
26,360
Ottawa, ON
Just to avoid the mess, I drain it via the cooler line as if doing a flush. Avoids 95% of the mess.

 

Stugar

Member
Apr 17, 2019
48
Michigan
I pass on the cork finding they leak more and are more of a PITA when removing them.

Not related to OP's question, which seems well answered, but back in the day Rover was paying about $2,000,000 a year on warranty work because a bean counter refused to allow them to replace the 20k $0.15 cork gaskets they were using a year with a $1.15 neoprene gasket. When BMW bought them out and they were allowed to go to neoprene, warranty work on oil pan gasket dropped to almost nothing. It's a simple but interesting look into the difference between piece cost versus total cost.
 

Mektek

Member
May 2, 2017
661
FL
I went with the wix filter and valvoline max life
high mileage dex6 fluid. All is well 2 years later.
I can report good results with the max life - even on other vehicles.
I reused the old rubber gasket which was in good condition.
 

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